I don’t know about you, but I can’t wait to get some seeds into potting mix and some plans for my garden on paper! While you’re planning your garden, why not join NYS IPM for our virtual conference? This year we’re talking about “Biological Control: Partners in the Garden” and we’ve got a great line up of speakers!
Carol Glenister form IPM Labs talks about looking for signs that natural enemies (biocontrol agents) are already at work in your garden
John Losey from Cornell University talks about everyone’s favorite biocontrol agent – ladybugs
NYS IPM staff will talk about biocontrol for weeds (is there any?), conserving our biocontrol partners in the garden, and more!
Mary Centrella from the Cornell Pesticide Safety Education Program will talk about proper use of pesticides to protect garden partners
Kyle Wickings will talk about using tiny worms (entomopathogenic nematodes) to deal with lawn grubs
The conference will take place the mornings of Tuesday and Wednesday March 15 and 16, with a special interactive workshop being offered (by yours truly) on Tuesday afternoon (1-3 PM). You’ll receive some pre-workshop materials to help you get the most out of the workshop, and leave with a plan to plant flowers that will feed and support natural enemies in your garden.
The conference is just a little more than a week away, so register soon! Pay what you can afford, and please reach out if the registration fee is a barrier. NYS IPM is committed to making this conference (and all of our resources) accessible.
Insect-killing nematodes (tiny white crescent) emerging from a dead insect larva. Photo credit: Peggy Greb, USDA Agricultural Research Service, Bugwood.org
Nematodes are tiny worms. While some of them can damage plants, some prefer to eat insects, and these “good worms” (entomopathogenic nematodes is the technical term, but we can call them EPNs for short) can be helpful biocontrol agents. Teresa Rusinek (Cornell Cooperative Extension eastern NY Commercial Horticulture Program) wrote a guest blog post about her work testing EPNs for control of wireworms in sweet potatoes. Elson Shields (Cornell Entomology) has spent many years perfecting the use of persistent EPNs that are native to New York in agricultural fields where they control insect pests. Kyle Wickings is my go-to expert on using EPNs to manage white grubs in turf. A former graduate student in Kyle’s lab (Max Helmberger) made an amazing video describing the life cycle of EPNs. John Sanderson is the Cornell guru of greenhouse biocontrol (including EPNs for greenhouse insect pests).
So many people have developed so many great materials on EPNs, the purpose of this post is to point you to some of these great resources. Why re-invent the wheel? And if I’ve missed something, please let me know!
John Sanderson (Cornell University) has done some great work evaluating different EPN species for controlling insect pests in greenhouses. You can watch a webinar summarizing this work here.
Carol Glenister (IPM Laboratories) and Elson Shields (Cornell University) did a presentation on “Getting the Most Out of Beneficial Nematodes in Organic Production” for the UMass Amherst Extension Vegetable Program. You can watch the recording on YouTube, and you can read their answers to frequently asked questions online.
Proper identification is essential to good IPM, and Kyle Wickings’ Grub ID key helps you do just that.
Need help identifying your white grubs (a critical first step to using EPNs effectively in your lawn)? Kyle Wickings developed a simple key.
Are you concerned about grub damage in your home lawn? Put back that pesticide bottle, and start by scouting and identifying grubs, then apply some EPNs (only if you need them). You can find all the details here.
Count how many white grubs you actually have per square foot (and identify them) before deciding if an EPN application would help.
If you are growing alfalfa, Elson Shield’s lab has all the information you need to successfully use EPNs to control alfalfa snout beetles, starting with an overview, and including detailed resources to help you be successful.
Wondering if EPNs can help you control fruit and vegetable insect pests? In consultation with my colleagues, I developed a summary of what we know about which fruit, vegetable, and ornamental pests you are likely to be able to manage with EPNs. More research is ongoing, so this list will continue to evolve.
This work is supported by NYS Departments of Environmental Conservation and Agriculture and Markets.
This post was written by Amara Dunn, Biocontrol Specialist with the NYSIPM program, but was only possible due to the great work done by colleagues. All images are Amara’s, unless otherwise noted.
Lacewings (especially larvae; this one is an adult) are great natural enemies of pests. You want to keep them happy and healthy!
Natural enemies of pests are going to help you out with pest control, so when you are applying pesticides, it’s in your best interest to choose products that will have the least impact on them. Two quick points before we get into details for where to find this information:
Remember that the information in this post is not a substitute for a pesticide label. The label is the law, and you must read and follow the label of any pesticide you are using. Laws and labels change. It is your responsibility to use pesticides legally. Trade names used here are for convenience only; no endorsement of products is intended, nor is criticism of unnamed products implied. For questions about pesticide use, regulations, and safety, contact the Cornell Pesticide Management Education Program: pmep_webmaster@cornell.edu.
A great way to protect natural enemies is by following the steps for IPM. Preventing pests (e.g., through cultural strategies and exclusion), scouting to detect pests early when populations are low, and proper identification of pests will help you reduce your need to use pesticides and can save you money. Win win!
Ok, let’s assume you’re doing good IPM and you’ve gotten to the point where you need to choose a pesticide. How do you make the best choice for protecting natural enemies? Here are a few options. (Note that I did post about this about 2 years ago. I’ve learned more, so I thought an update would be in order.)
Read the label
This should go without saying. You should be doing this anyway when you are considering using a pesticide. The label may contain information about the compatibility of a pesticide with either natural enemies or pollinators. And of course it will contain important information about how to minimize risks to yourself and the environment when you use it.
EIQ
EIQ stands for Environmental Impact Quotient. You can read more details on the NYSIPM website, but in a nutshell the EIQ puts a number on the risks of pesticides at the rates they are applied in the field. You can use the EIQ calculator on our website to compare these numbers for different pesticides. The higher the number, the higher the risk. There are different components to the EIQ; risks to consumers, workers, and the environment (ecological). The ecological risk will include risks to natural enemies (as well as fish, birds, and bees).
Pocket IPM Greenhouse Scout App
A screenshot from the home screen of the Pocket IPM Greenhouse Scout App. You can find information about compatibility with natural enemies under either “Beneficials” or “Pesticide Interactions”.
Temporary update: As of January 2024, this app is in the process of being updated and is not currently available. Hopefully a new and improved version will be available again soon!
Especially if you are growing in a greenhouse and releasing a lot of natural enemies, you may find this app helpful. In addition to providing information about compatibility of pesticides with arthropod natural enemies you may be releasing, you can also use it to help you keep records of scouting and product applications.
Cornell Guidelines
If you are a commercial producer, hopefully you are already utilizing the Cornell Guidelines, as they are a wealth of information on many subjects. At least some of them also include information on the toxicity of different pesticides to natural enemies. For example, if you have the grape guidelines, check out Table 4.2.2 for insecticide toxicity to natural enemies.
Websites and apps from companies that produce natural enemies
Companies that sell natural enemies (especially predatory and parasitoid arthropods for greenhouse pest control) have an interest in making sure that customers don’t inadvertently kill the natural enemies they buy with pesticides they are applying. I am aware of searchable databases, apps, or charts describing pesticide compatibility from four companies that sell (mostly) arthropod and nematode natural enemies: Agrobio, Biobest, BioWorks, and Koppert. If you know of some I’ve missed, please let me know! There are of course other companies that supply natural enemies. Here I’m focusing on resources that help you choose pesticides to conserve natural enemies.
This website is also available as an app for Android (but not Apple) devices. To use it, start by clicking Organisms selection and choose the natural enemies you want to conserve. Then, click Ingredients selection and choose the pesticides you are thinking about applying. You can only search active ingredients, not product names. Finally, click Query. Use the legend to help you interpret the table that’s produced.
Biobest has put their compatibility information into an app for Android and Apple devices. Select pesticides by either active ingredient or commercial product name. Then, search for the name of the Beneficial organism you want to conserve. Note that there are a lot of pesticide/natural enemy combinations for which toxicity data just aren’t available. If you select a pesticide, then natural enemies for which no data are available will be grayed out in the Beneficial organism list. As you check boxes next to pesticides and natural enemies, a chart is automatically generated. The results include information on toxicity to different life stages of the beneficial organisms and persistence of the product.
BioWorks provides a table of the compatibility of their products with pesticides, fertilizers, and adjuvants. You can filter the table by several criteria to find the information you’re looking for.
This website is also available as an app for Android and Apple devices. Start by entering the name of the Beneficial organism you want to protect. You can search by either the Koppert product name, or the Latin (scientific) name, but you can’t select from a drop-down menu. Just start typing. Then, choose the Agent (pesticide you are considering applying), by either trade name or active ingredient. Again, you need to know the name; you can’t select from a drop-down list. Start typing, and then check the box next to the product you are interested in. Click Results and be sure to click on ‘Legend’ at the bottom to help you interpret the table. There is also a more complete explanation of information in the legend under Info.
Some caveats about these websites
Admittedly, finding information about conserving natural enemies that are not commercially available for release (e.g., in greenhouses) has some challenges. These websites tend to focus on what you can buy and release, rather than on what may be naturally occurring in a field. Although sometimes there is some overlap. These apps/websites don’t include all natural enemies, and data aren’t available for all natural enemy/pesticide combinations. Also, these websites/apps usually list natural enemies by scientific names. Do you know what the scientific name of a lacewing is? I didn’t before I started this job!
To help with this last barrier, I created a chart (also below) to help you figure out what scientific names you should look for on these websites/apps if you want to conserve a particular natural enemy. It also includes information about which pests the natural enemies target, whether they are commercially available, and whether they are naturally occurring (not necessarily native) in NY.
Arthropod and nematode natural enemies
Can I buy them?
Found in NY?
If I want to conserve this beneficial arthropod…
(whose scientific name is…)
that helps me control…
I should look for these names on the compatibility apps:
yes
yes
aphid midges
Aphidoletes aphidimyza
aphids
Aphidoletes aphidimyza
some
yes
beetles that are predators (for example, rove beetles, ground beetles, and others)
Coleoptera is the scientific name of the insect group that includes all beetles. The following families are generally predatory: Coccinellidae (lady beetles), Carabidae (ground beetles), Staphylinidae (rove beetles), Cantharidae (soldier beetles), Melyridae (flower beetles)
many insect pests
Coleoptera is a beneficial insect listed on at least one compatibility app. However, some coleoptera are pests. And, since this is such a broad group, the compatibility information provided may not be correct for all beneficial beetle species.
insect eggs, small caterpillars, thrips, mites, aphids
Orius laevigatus may be a reasonable proxy; Orius spp.; Orius insidiosus
yes
yes
nematodes
Steinernema spp., Heterorhabditis spp.
thrips, fungus gnats, shore flies, some grubs
Nematodes (note that this is a very broad category and it’s possible there are differences among species), Heterorhabditisbacteriophora, Steinernema, Steinernemafeltiae, Steinernemacarpocapsae
Aphelinus abdominalis or Aphelinus mali may be reasonable proxies
yes
yes
predatory gall midge
Feltiella acarisuga
spider mites
Feltiella acarisuga
some
yes
predatory mites
Amblyseius (= Neoseiulus) fallacis, Typhlodromus spp., and probably others
thrips, whitefly, pest mites; may vary among natural enemy species
Amblyseius californicus, Amblyseius cucumeris, Amblyseius swirskii, Phytoseiulus persimilis are sold commercially and may be good proxies for the pesticide compatibility of naturally-occurring predatory mites
yes
yes
spined soldier bug
Podisus maculiventris
many immature insects, including many species of caterpillars
I should look for these names on the compatibility apps:
yes
yes
bumble bee
Bombus spp.
NA – pollinator
Bombus spp., Bombus terrestris
yes
yes
European honey bee
Apis mellifera
NA – pollinator
Apis, Apis mellifera
Notes:
Different strains or populations of these natural enemies are sold by different companies and each population may differ from natural populations. Each company is most likely to report compatibility data that applies to their population. It’s not perfect, but it’s a start.
When the first word in the scientific name of an insect (e.g. Trichogramma) is followed by the designation ‘spp.’, it means multiple species that all belong to the same genus. Some compatibility information is given for only the larger group (e.g., Aphidius spp. or Syrphus spp.).
Natural enemies that are pesticides (active ingredients are microorganisms, i.e., fungi, bacteria, viruses)
If I want to conserve this microbial natural enemy…
(whose scientific name is…)
that helps me control…
I should look for these names on the compatibility apps:
Bt
Bacillus thuringiensis (various strains are available, and they control different pests)
many caterpillars and some immature beetle and fly pests (target pest varies by strain)
many insects (target pest depends on fungal species and strain)
Paecilomyces (=Isaria) fumosoroseus, Beauveriabassiana, Metarhiziumanisopliae (= M. brunneum)
fungi that attack plant diseases
there are multiple species, including Trichoderma harzianum (several strains)
Plant pathogens (the target pathogen depends on the fungal strain)
Trichoderma harzianum T-22 is the only fungal natural enemy I found on these apps, so far. It is unlikely that its compatibility is representative of other fungi that are natural enemies.
Notes:
Different strains or populations of these microorganisms are sold by different companies and each of these populations may differ from natural populations. Each company is most likely to report compatibility data that applies to their population. It’s not perfect, but it’s a start.
In these apps/websites, the microbial active ingredient may be listed as the natural enemy (e.g., Paecilomyces fumosoroseus on Biobest website), but sometimes it’s only listed as a pesticide active ingredient. For compatibility of biopesticides with chemical pesticides, you should start by reading the label, then seek information provided by the manufacturer. I am starting to create biopesticide profiles that include available compatibilitiy information for these products.
All tables were assembled by Amara Dunn, NYSIPM using information from Natural Enemies of Vegetable Insect Pests (Hoffman & Frodsham) and were last updated January 2020.
Give it a try!
Imagine you were considering using one of the following active ingredients:
abamectin
acequinocyl
fenpyroximate
…to control spider mites. (Of course, before you did this, you’d read the labels and be sure that the use you were considering was legal!) If you were concerned about hurting parasitoids that help with aphid control (for example, the species Aphidius colemani and Aphidius ervi) which of these active ingredients would be the best choice (from a compatibility standpoint)?
Go ahead!
Look it up!
A note about microorganisms as natural enemies
Microbes used to control pests are biopesticides. In this conceptual diagram, the happy blue microbes are producing antimicrobial compounds that are killing the plant pathogens (represented by yellow rectangles with shocked faces).
There are a few “natural enemies” on this chart that are actually biopesticides, and I have listed them separately. Remember that microorganisms (fungi, bacteria, viruses) that are natural enemies of pests are biopesticides. A few of them can be found in the websites/apps summarized above. There are two compatibility questions when it comes to using biopesticides with living microorganisms as active ingredients: (1) Will this biopesticide harm other natural enemies (e.g., predators and parasitoids)? and (2) Will the living microbe in this biopesticide be killed by other pesticides I might use? The websites/apps have some information about the compatibility of biopesticides with arthropod natural enemies. If you’re wondering about the compatibility of biopesticides with other pesticides, that may be a topic for another post (so many posts to write, so little time!). I’ll just offer two quick pieces of advice here:
Read the label of the biopesticide. If it doesn’t contain compatibility information (for use with other pesticides) or doesn’t answer your questions about compatibility with other natural enemies, contact the manufacturer to get your questions answered.
If you happen to be using one of their products, BioWorks describes the compatibility of their products with other pesticides, and this information is linked to individual product pages.
And what about the bees?
Take a look at the resources created by the Pollinator Network @ Cornell. They have prepared decision-making guides for several crops already, with more to come.
This post was written by Amara Dunn, Biocontrol Specialist with the NYSIPM program. All images are hers, unless otherwise noted.
These white grubs can damage your lawn…but only if enough of them are present. Don’t waste time and money treating for them if you don’t need to!
For much of this summer, many people in NY had “water” at the top of their lawn care list. White grubs are another concern for home lawns. But finding a grub in your lawn does not automatically mean that you need to treat. Before you think about doing anything to your lawn to kill grubs, you should know how many grubs you have, and which species they are. If you do need to treat, consider using biocontrol.
Good news! It’s the perfect time of year to scout for white grubs. Starting in mid to late August, and continuing into October, grubs that hatched from eggs laid during the summer will be just beneath the surface of your lawn, feeding on the roots of your grass plants. This is the time to look for grubs. You might also notice some damage to your lawn from white grub feeding during this window.
Late August through October is the perfect time of year to look for grubs in your lawn. The grubs will be young and close to the surface.
X marks the spot (to sample for grubs)! Select parts of your lawn where you think there might be grubs, sample in these places, and take notes on what you find.
Take a look at this fact sheet for detailed instructions on sampling your lawn. All you need is a piece of paper, something to write with, and a shovel or trowel. Check 1 foot by 1 foot squares around the lawn. If you have a bulb planter with a diameter of approximately 4.25 inches, or a golf course cup cutter, this works, too. Make notes about where you’ve sampled and how many grubs you found in each spot. Save the grubs from each sampling location separately.
Cut a 1 foot by 1 foot square at each sampling location, and look for grubs in the roots of the grass. (Photo credit: NYS IPM)
If you didn’t find any grubs, please don’t treat your lawn! You are wasting money, and applying unneeded pesticides (or biocontrol nematodes) is never a good idea. If you did find grubs, it’s important that you determine which species they are. Why? Because the white grubs you are likely to find in NY are the immature (larval) stage of many different insect species. And each species causes different amounts of damage to your lawn. This means that the number of grubs your lawn can tolerate before it’s damaged – and therefore the number of grubs you should tolerate before treating for grubs – depends not only on the overall resilience of your turf, but also on the grub species you have. Check out the following table:
White grubs may look very similar, but they are not! Different species cause different amounts of damage to your lawn. If you find more than the number of grubs per square foot (or per 4.25-inch diameter soil core), you might consider treating your lawn for grubs. If not, you don’t need to do anything!
Fortunately, identifying grubs is easy, too! All you need is a penny, a hand lens with at least 15x magnification, and this online Grub ID tool. First, use the green “Learn how to identify grubs” button to find out which part of the grub to look at and how to hold it. Next, follow the instructions to compare each grub you found to the size of a penny.
The Grub ID tool explains exactly which part of the white grub to look at when you are identifying it. Just click the green button.Take a close look at the rear end of a white grub (using a 15x hand lens) to find out which species you have.
Finally, inspect its rear end with a hand lens to determine which species you have. Once you’ve identified the species, click on the species name to find specific management information. Now, look at that table again. For the species you found in your yard, do you have more than the listed number per square foot (or per 4.25-inch diameter soil core)? If not, then don’t waste time or money treating your lawn.
Most likely, only a few spots in your lawn (if any) warrant grub treatment. This is why you took careful notes about where you found grubs. Late August through September is also a good time to use a curative treatment for grubs in NY. The grubs are small and easier to kill. Some chemicals are effective when used at this time (but not the ones that are taken up by the plant!). A preventative pesticide that is taken up by the plant and kills the next generation of grubs when they start feeding in the late summer and fall should be applied in May or June. Before using any pesticide, find out if it is allowed in NY and find the product label using the New York State Pesticide Administration Database (NYSPAD). If a product isn’t listed in this database, you may not use it in NYS (even if you can buy it online). You must follow all instructions on the label.
Use the product registration section of the New York State’s Pesticide Administration Database (NYSPAD) to check if a white grub pesticide is allowed in NY. When you get to the website, follow the three simple steps shown here.Unlike the healthy white grubs you saw earlier in this post, this grub has been killed by nematodes.
But why use a chemical when you could use a biological control? Entomopathogenic nematodes are tiny beneficial worms that don’t harm plants, but kill grubs. See how they do it by watching this short video. Why wouldn’t you want these nematodes working for you? Beneficial nematodes are a curative white grub treatment, so they should be applied between mid to late August and October. But you still only need to apply them to spots where grub numbers exceeded the thresholds in this table. You can purchase nematodes from garden centers or online garden supply stores. Look for the nematode species Heterorhabditis bacteriophora and Steinernema feltiae.
Grub-killing nematodes are sold as what looks like a dry powder. Dissolve them in non-chlorinated water (if available) before applying them to your lawn. Follow all package instructions.
For both species, make sure to follow the instructions on the package for storing and applying them. Nematodes will be harmed by ultraviolet light, so apply them around dawn or dusk, and water them afterwards to wash them into the root zone of the grass (where the grubs are). Any type of sprayer (as long as it doesn’t contain a fine mesh) or even a watering can will work to apply nematodes. If you use a sprayer, keep the pressure below 30 pounds per square inch. When you’re mixing up the nematodes, if non-chlorinated water is available, use that. Chlorinated water is fine for watering them in after you apply them.
Regardless of what treatment you use, scout your lawn again next year to find out how well your IPM strategy worked, and if there are other areas you need to treat (or not).
This post was written by Amara Dunn (NYS IPM) and Kyle Wickings (Department of Entomology, Cornell University).
