Sweetmeats

“They gave rice to Matthew and Kautilya, and sweetmeats, and all blessed them as they knelt” (Du Bois 223). Contrary to what I initially believed they were, sweetmeats are simply sweets and in Hindu tradition, sweetmeats are given out at important events such as a birth or wedding, as depicted in this scene of The Maharajah of Bwodpur (“Sweetmeats”).

Sweetmeats are thought to have originated in Ancient Egypt as a way to disguise the taste of medicinal mixtures, but eventually spread across the globe and began to be made specifically as a dessert or treat in 1600s Europe (Christensen). Today sweetmeats is used as a broad term which, according to the Webster’s New Universal Dictionary, means a food item “prepared with sugar honey or the like, as preserves, candy, or formerly, cakes or pastry [or] any sweet delicacy of the confectionery or candy kind, as candied fruit, sugar-covered nuts, sugarplums, bonbons, or balls or sticks of candy.” Different parts of the world consumed different types of sweetmeats based on regional preferences and ingredients. For example, Tudor England enjoyed sugar plums while porabari chamcham is popular in Uttar Pradesh (Christensen; “Sweetmeats”).

I was intrigued upon discovering that sweetmeats, though varying across the globe, coexisted in their different forms. Those present at the wedding reflect the different backgrounds from which Matthew and Kautilya come from and the moment when those worlds come together; Matthew’s mother speaks to Jesus and God and the preacher reads from the book of Revelation. Shortly after, the group of men who bring the rice and sweetmeats arrive. They ask for blessings from Allah and Kautilya calls upon Brahma, Vishnu, and Siva to bless Madhu. This interracial marriage is celebrated, with the full customs and traditions of both bride and groom practiced simultaneously.

We first encounter Matthew in The Dark Princess as he enters his self-imposed exile after facing rejection from the University of Manhattan, only now to witness his union with the Princess of Bwodpur, and to meet their child, the subsequent Maharajah of Bwodpur. At the start of the book, he voices his anger over being seen as less than a man, and at the conclusion, he discovers that his child will be a king. The ceremonial presentation of the rice and sweetmeats cement his child’s cultural acceptance and place in the royal lineage.

The fact that sweetmeats are all recognized under the same umbrella term despite their extensive variety seemed to help enforce the idea that Matthew and Kautilya shared more in common than one would think on the surface level. On a slightly unrelated note, if we go back to what Professor Goffe mentioned about the dedication of The Dark Princess to Queen Titania, I wonder whether there is some parallel from this to the story of A Midsummer Night’s Dream and the romance between Titania and Nick Bottom (since those characters have such different backgrounds, as Matthew and Kautilya seem to do) and the potential significance behind it.

Citations:

Christensen, Tricia. “What Are Sweetmeats?” wiseGEEK. Conjecture Corporation, August 21, 2020. https://www.wisegeek.com/what-are-sweetmeats.htm.

“Sweetmeats.” Banglapedia, February 4, 2015. http://en.banglapedia.org/index.php?title=Sweetmeats.

Bittersweet: Honey, Crepes, and Du Bois’ Elitism

This week’s readings focused on Parts III and IV of Dark Princess. While reading, two quotes caught my attention: “…the swarm of white bosses…” and “…[Sara Andrews looked unusually ornamental in her immaculate crepe dress, white silk hose…she could ‘pass’ for white” (111). My mind went to honey and crepes!

Honey was civilization’s first and most reliable sweetener with its oldest written account by 5500 BC Egyptians. It predated the commercial availability of sugar cane. Interestingly enough, honeybees are native to Southeast Asia and are not native to the Americas. Bees were actually brought over once the plants they pollinated, and they themselves were brought over by colonizers. Additionally, the flavors of honey are denoted where the majority of the nectar came from (orange blossom, clover, etcetera). Most supermarket honey is sourced from China, Argentina, and Canada.

Crepes have a unique history. They were originally created in a region in France called Bretagne, popularized as Brittany in English. There, the landscape is rocky and not ideal to produce any crops of its own. As a result, people imported buckwheat starting in the 12th century. It was then ground, mixed with water, and cooked on a skillet. Crepes are typically filled with whatever fresh produce is available. Fun fact: crepe day is February 2.

I chose these quotes because I think W. E. B. Du Bois had an elitist and classist perspective when it comes to race. He attended Harvard and was well educated. Because of this, he feels that he is an exception to the stereotypes associated with being African American in the US at this time, and I think that we see a lot of him reflected in Matthew. These quotes have an interesting contrast with fear of white bosses “swarming” and suffocating him and an obsession with  Sara Andrews who is a fair, white-passing woman. This trend of internalized racism and colorism within Towns hence Du Bois is quite disappointing given his legacy as a phenomenal writer. Maybe I am missing the underlying nuance, but it is hard to stomach this troublesome read of one of the so-called greats. If I added honey to this read, do you think it would be more tolerable?

Works Cited:

https://www.thenibble.com/reviews/main/honey/honey-history.asp

https://epicureandculture.com/french-crepe/

Biscuits in Harlem

“There is a corner in High Harlem where Seventh Avenue cuts the dark world in two. West rises the noble façade of City College–gray and green. East creeps the sullen Harlem, green and gray. There Matthew stood and looked right and left. Left was the world he had left–there were some pretty parlors there, conventional in furniture and often ghastly in ornament, but warm and homelike in soul. There was his own bedroom; Craigg’s restaurant with its glorious biscuit; churches whose music often brushed his ears sweetly, afar; crowded but neat apartments, swaggering but well-dressed lodgers, workers, visitors. He turned from it with a sigh. He had left this world for a season–perhaps forever. It would hardly recognize him, he was sure, for he was unshaven and poorly clothed.” (DuBois 42)

Biscuits in America were first called “beaten biscuits” because in order to make them, one would have to beat the dough in order to get air into the mixture. They were an in-between of British biscuits (~ cookies) and modern Southern biscuits (~ bread). Yeast was a rare and costly commodity, but once it was developed in the 19th century along with the introduction of more modern mechanized flour mills (Industrial Revolution), the more modern biscuits we know today were formed. Flour, water, plus the new addition of baking powder created an airier version of the food staple. Adding milk, buttermilk, shortening, lard, butter, etc. allowed for differences in the leavening capacity or flavor of the biscuit. In 1883, White Lily flour was the “gold standard” for or “secret ingredient” to making biscuits (https://styleblueprint.com/everyday/southern-biscuits/, https://www.whitelily.com). White Lily was only really available around where it was milled in Tennessee. Colonel Sanders of Kentucky Fried Chicken brought the well-known and loved Southern biscuit (and fried chicken) from his home state of Kentucky across the nation to Utah in 1952, where the first KFC was opened. Southern (soul) food spread throughout the nation, and different chefs put their own spins on the beloved biscuit.

In New York, in Harlem, specifically, where Matthew resides in the novel, soul food was brought up by “successive waves of economic migration” (McDonald-Gibson). Matthew describes his corner in Harlem as halfway between two different worlds, two different times, two different lives. On his right is City College, on his left is (the rest of) Harlem. The former represented the future in his past, a life he left behind because he was unwelcome. The latter represents a world he is welcome in, but he no longer feels so. He feels that he has disappointed this world by leaving it in the first place. The familiarities in this left world, “the world he had left,” are told through his perspective from this corner of the block and part of his identity in this world (42). This world that Matthew has left is one that will always be a part of him and that he will be a part of, even if he feels otherwise. The Harlem Renaissance came about during the 1920s and it brought along a significant period of cultural and artistic expression. Iconic figures, art, music, writing, and much more came about, and there is no doubt food had a prominent role during this time.

 

Citations:

“A Legend in Biscuits.” White Lily, Since 1883, www.whitelily.com/.

DuBois W. E. B., Dark Princess. Oxford University Press, 2014.

McDonald-Gibson, Charlotte. “Food for the Soul in Harlem.” The Independent, Independent Digital News and Media, 15 Feb. 2013, www.independent.co.uk/travel/americas/food-for-the-soul-in-harlem-8496725.html.

Worley, Karl. “The History of Southern Biscuits (Plus a No-Fail Recipe!).” StyleBlueprint, 30 May 2019, styleblueprint.com/everyday/southern-biscuits/.