Native plants provide many ecological benefits and make the shores of Seneca Lake even more beautiful.
Native plants are a key component of the green infrastructure the City of Geneva, NY has installed throughout downtown. In addition, numerous volunteers have dedicated countless hours to planting and maintaining native plants along Seneca Lake. The goal is to support native insects, wildlife, and the rest of the ecosystem, reduce water and maintenance needs, increase the ecological resilience of the City, and protect beautiful Seneca Lake.
Perennial wildflowers add both beauty and food for beneficial insects to your yard.
Why grow perennial wildflowers?
Native wildflowers feed and shelter beneficial insects that pollinate our plants and help us control pests. Beneficial insects include a diverse collection of pollinators — not just honey bees — as well as natural enemies (flies, wasps, beetles, bugs and other insects that kill pests). While not technically insects, spiders and predatory mites also serve as natural enemies of pests. Cooperating with insect natural enemies for pest control helps us reduce damage from pests while reducing risks to the environment and people from other pest management strategies like pesticides.
The pollen and nectar produced by these native flowers – and many non-native flowers – either directly feed these friendly insects, or feed other insects that are prey for natural enemies. The leaves and stems also provide shelter for beneficial insects year-round. While we’re focusing on flowers today, many grasses also provide this shelter. Beyond all the ecological benefits, native wildflowers are beautiful!
Preparing perennial seeds to germinate
Growing perennial flowers from seed does take longer, but it can be fun and rewarding!
In this part of the world (now known as upstate New York), seeds from native perennial wildflowers that mature in summer and fall experience a lot of “weathering” between maturation and germination the following spring. This includes cycles of freezing and thawing temperatures as well as varying levels of moisture during the winter. They may even pass through the digestive system of animals. This is why planting perennial wildflower seed in the fall is a great option. You are allowing nature to do the work of preparing the seeds for germination in the spring. If you harvest seeds of native perennial wildflowers and want to start them in the spring with other seeds, you will need to do this work yourself.
Some seeds have very hard seed coats that need to be broken by physical force (for example scratching with sandpaper, a file, or a knife), heat (for example, submerging in boiling water), cold (for example, freezing), or chemicals (like a strong acid). This is called seed scarification. Seeds that require scarification – and those that don’t – may also require stratification, which signals to the seeds that they can “wake up” (called breaking dormancy) and start germinating. Seed stratification generally requires exposing the seeds to the right level of moisture and the right temperature for the right length of time. Some examples include:
Hot water soak – Pour hot water over seeds and allow them to soak overnight or for 24 hours
Cold moist stratification – Mix seeds with sterile sand, vermiculite, or another substance that won’t hold too much moisture. You could also place seeds between layers of a damp paper towel or coffee filter. Make sure that whatever medium you use is only damp and not too wet. Put the mixture in a plastic bag or closed container in your refrigerator for the required amount of time.
If you buy perennial wildflower seeds, they may have already been stratified. Follow the instructions that come with your seed or reach out to the seller for more information.
One way to stratify seeds (prepare them for germination) is to place them in moist potting mix in the refrigerator for several weeks to several months.
Species-specific instructions
Examples of perennial wildflower seeds that benefit from scarification and/or stratification follow. After these seeds are scarified and/or stratified, germination may be improved by putting them in a warm place (but not for all species). Remember that you can always sprinkle seeds on well-prepared, weed-free soil outside in the fall and let the winter do the work for you! Also, your experience germinating these seeds may differ from the recommendations below. There is so much beautiful diversity in these perennial wildflowers!
Blue false indigo (Baptisia australis) – First scarify the seeds. Gently rub them between medium-grit sandpaper to scratch the seed coat. Then use the cold moist stratification method, leaving them in the refrigerator for about 10 days.
New York Ironweed (Vernonia noveboracensis) – Use cold moist stratification, keeping seeds chilled for 60 days.
Asters (Symphyotrichum spp.) – If you look up how to seed asters, you’ll see different instructions for different species, including seeding them in the spring without stratification and using a 60-day cold stratification period. Amara tried germinating Symphyotrichum oblongifolium (aromatic aster) seed and had better luck with cold moist stratification than seeding without stratification. You might see different results with different species.
Milkweed (Asclepias spp.) – Store (well-dried!) seeds in the freezer for several months (e.g., from the time you harvest them in the fall, until you are ready to start them in the spring). Learn more from Petra at Fruition Seeds.
Coreopsis (Coreopsis spp.) – Note that some coreopsis species are annuals in upstate NY. Perennial species will likely germinate best with cold moist stratification (30-60 days, depending on species).
Echinacea (Echinacea purpurea) – These seeds will likely germinate just fine if you plant them in moist soil and provide warmth (e.g., a heat mat) just as you would annual seeds.
Blazing star (Liatris spicata) – Moist stratify for 60 days before planting seeds.
Beard tongue (Penstemon spp.) – Cold stratify for 30-60 days before planting seeds. Some species may require light for germination. Cover seed of these species with only a very thin layer of potting mix (if any) and provide light when germinating.
Mountain mints (Pycnanthemum spp.) – You should be able to germinate seeds without stratification, but they will likely germinate better with light. Cover seed with only a very thin layer of potting mix (if any) and provide light when germinating.
Rudbeckia (Rudbeckia spp.) – Different species of Rudbeckia may require different stratification (or none) for seed to germinate. For many species, cold moist stratification for at least 30 days is recommended.
Goldenrod (Solidago spp.) – There are many species. Most will likely germinate best if seed is moist stratified for 60 days, and then receive light after seeding. Cover seed with only a very thin layer of potting mix (if any) and provide light when germinating.
Spiderwort (Tradescantia ohiensis) – For this species, you are better off direct-seeding in the fall. The recommended cold moist stratification period is 120 days, and these seeds will germinate better in cool soil.
Golden alexanders (Zizia aurea) – You may have better luck sowing these seeds outside in the fall than trying to start them inside in the spring. Their leaves are fairly distinctive (like celery) so seedlings are easier to spot outdoors. If you do want to try starting them indoors, use a 60-day cold moist stratification.
For some of the species that require longer stratification, you may be worried that you’re running out of time this spring. Remember that even after you have prepared your seeds to germinate, they will likely need around 6 weeks to germinate and grow big enough to consider transplanting outdoors. Don’t despair! Fall is a great time to transplant perennial wildflowers. And perhaps your heat mats and grow lights (or other seed germination spot) are otherwise occupied starting annual vegetable and herb transplants this spring. If you start stratifying seeds in early May, even those that require 60 days in the fridge will be ready for germination in early July. Then your seedlings will have plenty of time to grow big and strong before fall transplanting. Just be sure to keep them watered.
Echinacea and goldenrod are just two species of native perennial wildflowers that feed beneficial insects.
For the past six years, we’ve been cultivating perennial grasses and wildflowers that feed and support beneficial insects. All of these plants came from seeds—whether sown by us or by others—and we’ll focus this year’s annual open house on these wonderful seeds.
Come join folks from New York State Integrated Pest Management, and Petra Page-Mann from Fruition Seeds to talk about how we harvest, clean, store, and germinate seeds of perennial wildflowers that support beneficial insects. Stop by our open house between 3:30 and 6:30 p.m on Thursday, August 17. We’ll offer guided explorations of our established plots of perennial wildflowers and grasses at 3:45, 4:45, and 5:45 p.m. You are also welcome to explore the field on your own, or browse our interactive resources on display. There will be a few hard copies of resources available at the event, and we’ll continue to add digital resources to this folder up to and following the event. Everyone will go home with seeds of native perennial plants that support beneficial insects.
No registration needed for this free event. Find all the details at our event page. When you arrive at the entrance to the farm, look for signs with the pink echinacea flower and the Christmas tree on them, and follow the signs to our field.
Follow these signs to find our field!
Funds for this project were provided by NYS Dept of Ag and Markets and the USDA National Institute of Food and Ag.
These bees are just two of the beneficial insects you’ll want to protect from pesticides.
Hopefully we can all agree that protecting friendly insects (pollinators and natural enemies of pests) on our farms and in our gardens and landscapes is important. We want to manage pests, without hurting bees, butterflies, ladybugs, parasitoid wasps, minute pirate bugs, hover flies, ground beetles, and so many more of our insect friends. Using IPM tools other than pesticides is a great way to do this. When it is necessary to use pesticides as an IPM tool, how do you choose a pesticide – whether it is organic, conventional, or biological – that poses the least risk?
Practices that help reduce risk to beneficial insects
No matter how hazardous or toxic any substance is, insects are only at risk if they are exposed to that substance. By using integrated pest management practices like crop rotation, sanitation, and scouting for pests, you can reduce the number of pesticide applications needed to manage pests. Making fewer pesticide applications is a great way to start protecting beneficial insects. Some pesticides are particularly dangerous to insects because they linger so long in the environment after they are applied (have a long residual), posing a greater risk. Other pesticides quickly break down in the environment after being applied to plants, so they pose less risk.
Wild bees are important pollinators of cucurbit flowers. We can thank them for many of our pumpkins, squashes, cucumbers, and melons.
Being careful about when you apply a pesticide can also reduce the likelihood that a beneficial insect will be exposed to it. Bees are less active at certain times of day (especially early morning and evening). However, some wild bee species forage at different times of day. For example, squash bees are early risers, and can be found visiting squash, pumpkin, and cucumber flowers before honey or bumble bees are active. Check the area where you plan to apply a pesticide, and pick a different time if bees are present. Some pesticide labels require that you do not apply that product while bees are foraging. Some pesticides will still harm bees that visit a flower some time after the pesticide is applied. Avoiding pesticide applications when plants are flowering will provide additional protection to beneficial insects, but may not be practical on all crops.
Where you apply pesticides also matters. Have you planted some habitat for beneficial insects? Prevent pesticide spray drift into these habitats. Are there flowers blooming amongst the grass on the orchard floor? Mowing them before you spray the fruit trees overhead could make insects less likely to visit during or right after you spray.
Resources to consult
First, read the pesticide label (and follow it). The label is the law and will have instructions on how to protect pollinators and other non-target organisms when using a pesticide.
If you know the pesticides you are considering, and especially if you know the specific natural enemies you are trying to protect, you can find some good information from companies that sell beneficial insects, or pesticides. I am aware of searchable databases or charts describing pesticide compatibility from four companies that sell (mostly) arthropod and nematode natural enemies: Agrobio, Biobest, BioWorks, and Koppert.
EIQ stands for Environmental Impact Quotient. You can read more details on the NYSIPM website, but in a nutshell the EIQ quantifies the risks of pesticides. You can use the EIQ calculator on our website to compare these numbers for different pesticides at the rates you plan to use them. The higher the number, the higher the risk. There are different components to the EIQ; risks to consumers, workers, and the environment (ecological). The ecological risk includes risks to natural enemies (as well as fish, birds, and bees). The EIQ calculator will give you an overall EIQ value as well as values for each category of risk (consumers, workers, ecological). Or, you can download this spreadsheet of EIQ values for pesticides, and sort by values for bees or beneficials (columns P and Q).
The Cornell Pollinator Network produces Pollinator Protection Guides for an increasing number of crop groups to help you understand the toxicity of different pesticide active ingredients to bees.
Larvae (maggots) of this hover fly are excellent aphid predators. Killing your hover flies with pesticides could contribute to an aphid outbreak.
A few pesticides to avoid
You’re using good IPM, and you still need to use an insecticide. You’re trying to choose. I used information I collected from a few different sources (listed at the end of this post) to categorize some insecticides as “most” or “moderately” harmful. These are not exhaustive lists.
Most harmful to beneficial insects:
Carbaryl – active ingredient found in some products called Sevin
Natural pyrethrins – PyGanic is one product with this active ingredient; similar to synthetic pyrethroids, but this active ingredient degrades quickly in the environment (short residual)
Synthetic pyrethroids – active ingredients include bifenthrin, cypermethrin, lambda-cyhalothrin, permethrin, and others; can be found in products called Sevin, Eight, Warrior, and others; similar to natural pyrethrins, but last much longer in the environment (long residual)
Spinetoram – Radiant is one product that contains this active ingredient; a synthetic version of spinosad, but more toxic to beneficial insects than spinosad
Moderately harmful to beneficial insects:
Azadirachtin – active ingredient found in products such as Aza-Direct, Azaguard, Neemix
Bifenazate – active ingredient found in products such as Acramite
Chlorantraniliprole – active ingredient found in Coragen; among natural enemies, parasitoid wasps are probably most at risk. There may be some synergistic effects on bees when combined with other pesticides (see Cornell Pollinator Protection Guides)
Indoxacarb – active ingredient found in products such as Avaunt
Insecticidal soaps – active ingredient is potassium salts of fatty acids and can be found in M-Pede and many other products; most harmful to soft-bodied insects (including predatory mites), while beetles may be less susceptible
Spinosad – active ingredient in Entrust; similar to spinetoram, but it is the natural version of this chemical; not as toxic to beneficial insects as spinetoram
So what are the alternatives?
Remember that pesticides, by definition, are toxic to some living things; that’s why they kill and repel pests. There is no such thing as a completely safe pesticide. But here are a few insecticides that are gentlest on beneficial insects. And let me reiterate: Reducing the use of pesticides through good IPM is the best way to protect insects from pesticides.
Beauveria bassiana – several strains of this fungus are active ingredients in different insecticides, including BotaniGard
Bt or Bacillus thuringiensis – bacterial active ingredient in pesticides such as Agree, Dipel, and others; quite specific to the insect groups specified on the label; different subspecies are effective against different groups of insects
Flonicamid – active ingredient in Beleaf
Horticultural oils – there are many different active ingredients that fall in this group; may be more toxic to bees than to natural enemies, but require direct contact with the insect
Cordyceps (formerly Isaria or Paecilomyces) fumosorosea – another fungal active ingredient found in products such as PFR-97
Clarified hydrophobic neem oil – Note that “whole” neem oil contains azadirachtin (which I listed in the “moderately harmful group”), while clarified hydrophobic neem oil does not. Azadirachtin is extracted from neem oil, leaving the clarified hydrophobic neem oil behind.
This cute little insect is a minute pirate bug. In addition to munching on pollen, it will also eat small pests like thrips, mites, and small caterpillars.
A few reminders…
Remember that the information in this post is not a substitute for a pesticide label. The label is the law, and you must read and follow the label of any pesticide you are using. Laws and labels change. It is your responsibility to use pesticides legally. Trade or company names used here are for convenience and information only; no endorsement of products or companies is intended, nor is criticism of unnamed products or companies implied.
Just because a pesticide isn’t on the “most” or “moderately” harmful lists above, does not mean it is harmless to insects. These lists are not exhaustive, and for some products insufficient information exists.
Sources consulted:
Pesticide compatibility checkers from two companies that sell arthropod biocontrol agents: Koppert and Biobest
Cooler days and more moisture make fall a less-stressful time for transplanting perennials.
You’ve probably heard that fall is the best time to plant perennials (including seed for perennial wildflowers). Are you planning to start or expand a planting that supports pollinators and natural enemies of pests (beneficial insects) this fall? Trying to decide what to plant? I wanted to make sure you know about some resources from NYSIPM (some of them new this summer) that can help!
Who are you trying to attract?
Some lady beetle species weed on pollen, in addition to aphids and other insects.
The good news is that flowers that produce lots of pollen and nectar and provide season-long blooms (usually as part of a mixed planting) will support a diverse group of both natural enemies that eat pests and pollinators. If you want to get a bit more specific than that, you might consider checking out:
Natural Enemies and What They Eat in the Field – Targeting a particular pest? This chart can help you determine which natural enemies will help.
(New!) Pocket Guide to Beneficial Insects – This guide was created for urban growers in New York City, but fortunately all of the beneficial insects in the Guide can be found throughout NY. It will help you recognize beneficial insects when you see them.
These resources are linked from this page. The NYSIPM website is in the process of migrating, and I’ll update this link once this page moves. You can also read about “friends in the garden” (natural enemies) that you’ll find on the ground and on plants or flying through the air in previous blog posts.
Picking plants
Choosing a mixture of flowering plants can provide season-long blooms for beneficial insects.
Plants for Natural Enemies (full list) – A very large spreadsheet summarizing data from university research and extension resources; Everything I could find about individual plant species and which insects (especially natural enemies) they support.
(New!) Plants for Natural Enemies (2 pg handout) – Much shorter table listing 26 plants (perennials and annuals) that will support natural enemies (and pollinators); Bloom times are for central NY, and may vary in other locations (especially different USDA plant hardiness zones).
These resources are also linked from this page. And I’ve written a few blog posts about choosing plants (here and here).
Next week is full of great biocontrol events! If you are in the Geneva, NY area, don’t miss out!
Thursday August 11 5:30-7:30 PM
Participants enjoying last year’s Habitat for Beneficial Insects Open House.
We are in our 5th year of establishing perennial wildflowers and grasses to support pollinators and natural enemies of pests. Perhaps you’ve been following our progress (although admittedly I owe you all an update post or two). Or maybe you keep up with pictures on my Instagram. Now you can see these plots for yourself at our Habitat for Beneficial Insects Open House!
Come visit us any time between 5:30 and 7:30 PM. This outdoor event is free and no registration is required. Just put this address into your GPS:
1097 County Rd. 4
Geneva, NY 14456
Then look for these signs:
Funds for this project were provided by NYS Dept of Ag and Markets, the Towards Sustainability Foundation, and the USDA National Institute of Food and Ag.
Friday August 12, 5-7:30 PM
Bryan Brown talking about integrated weed management at last year’s event.
As part of a larger Christmas tree IPM project, we’re looking at using biopesticides applied to Christmas tree roots at planting to protect the young trees from root diseases (especially Phytophthora). We’re having a Field Day so that you can see both acres of Christmas trees we’ve planted and learn about early results from the project.
Please do register for this event using the “Field Day” link above!
Like the Habitat for Beneficial Insect Open House, put this address into your GPS:
1097 County Rd. 4
Geneva, NY 14456
Then look for these signs:
This work is supported by Agriculture and Food Research Initiative – Foundational and Applied Science Grant no. 2021-68008-34179/project accession no. 1025660 from the USDA National Institute of Food and Agriculture.
Saturday August 13, 10 AM – 3 PM
This year we planted two new raised beds with perennials that support beneficial insects.
NYS IPM will be at Cornell AgriTech’s 140th Anniversary Open House talking about how to “feed your insect friends”…by creating excellent habitat for them, of course! This spring we planted two raised beds with a mixture of perennials selected to provide pollen and nectar from spring through fall. Come see how these new plantings are growing, learn more about beneficial insects and how to create your own habitat, and pick up some (temporary) tattoos of pest natural enemies! Then visit the rest of the educational displays at Cornell AgriTech.
Funding for our displays at this event is being provided by Cornell AgriTech and NYS Dept of Environmental Conservation.
I don’t know about you, but I can’t wait to get some seeds into potting mix and some plans for my garden on paper! While you’re planning your garden, why not join NYS IPM for our virtual conference? This year we’re talking about “Biological Control: Partners in the Garden” and we’ve got a great line up of speakers!
Carol Glenister form IPM Labs talks about looking for signs that natural enemies (biocontrol agents) are already at work in your garden
John Losey from Cornell University talks about everyone’s favorite biocontrol agent – ladybugs
NYS IPM staff will talk about biocontrol for weeds (is there any?), conserving our biocontrol partners in the garden, and more!
Mary Centrella from the Cornell Pesticide Safety Education Program will talk about proper use of pesticides to protect garden partners
Kyle Wickings will talk about using tiny worms (entomopathogenic nematodes) to deal with lawn grubs
The conference will take place the mornings of Tuesday and Wednesday March 15 and 16, with a special interactive workshop being offered (by yours truly) on Tuesday afternoon (1-3 PM). You’ll receive some pre-workshop materials to help you get the most out of the workshop, and leave with a plan to plant flowers that will feed and support natural enemies in your garden.
The conference is just a little more than a week away, so register soon! Pay what you can afford, and please reach out if the registration fee is a barrier. NYS IPM is committed to making this conference (and all of our resources) accessible.
