Close to thirty years ago, Dr. Tony Shelton (now Professor Emeritus, Department of Entomology, Cornell University) launched a website called Biological Control: A Guide to Natural Enemies in North America. It included great information about the biology of biocontrol, individual articles about species or groups of biocontrol agents, and much more. As Dr. Shelton approached retirement, he reached out to me and NYSIPM and we agreed to take over managing and updating the site. Since then, I’ve been working on migrating content, updating it as I go.
Biocontrol agents are organisms that do biocontrol (control pests). Profiles of 42 biocontrol agents are now available on NYSIPM’s website.
As I planned the migration of the articles about individual biocontrol agents from Dr. Shelton’s website, I knew that I wanted to make it easy for readers to quickly find answers to common questions (Does it work? What pests are targeted?), break up the text into smaller sections, and retain the valuable (and more technical) information that made Dr. Shelton’s website valuable to scientists, too. I am incredibly grateful to all the authors who revised or wrote brand new content that fulfills these goals. The first 42 biocontrol agent profiles are now up on the website! Currently, you can browse them based on either the type of pest they target (insects or weeds, for now), or you can browse by the type of biocontrol agent. We’re still working on ways to expand how you can search for biocontrol agents of interest.
Each new biocontrol agent profile has updated pictures and summarizes information in smaller blocks of text.
I’m excited about:
New and more pictures
Compatibility with mobile devices and more accessible
Organized to provide straightforward answers to frequently asked questions
Consistent format so you can look for the same information in the same part of each profile
So, check them out and let me know what you think! There are still many more articles to revise and migrate, and new biocontrol agents to add. If you are someone with expertise in a biocontrol agent and would like to revise or write one of these profiles, please get in touch with me!
This work is supported by NYS Departments of Environmental Conservation and Agriculture and Markets. It was also funded in part by the Northeastern IPM Center through Grant #2018-70006-28882 from the National Institute of Food and Agriculture, Crop Protection and Pest Management, Regional Coordination Program.
Many people understandably think about spring as the season for seeding. When it comes to vegetables and flowers that grow as annuals in New York State (and other places with similar climates), you’re generally right. (Of course there are exceptions to every rule.) But many perennial wildflower species have adapted to produce seeds that won’t germinate immediately. Certain conditions have to prepare and signal these seeds to germinate. They require stratification prior to germination. If you are trying to germinate these seeds, you can stratify them yourself, or you can let winter cycles of freezing and thawing and fluctuating soil moisture do the work for you by planting perennial wildflower seeds in the fall.
How to sow perennial wildflower seeds in the fall
If you want to try this yourself, now (September) is a good time to prepare soil in a spot where there aren’t a lot of other plants growing already. If you’re trying to convert lawn or a weedy spot into a wildflower planting, it will be easier if you’ve spent at least one growing season managing weeds. But, if the summer flew by and you are just digging up a fresh spot now, don’t despair. You may just have more weeds to deal with in the spring. (More on weeds later!)
Once your soil is ready, put a note on your calendar to remind yourself to plant your seeds a bit later. In central NY, mid-October through December is a good time to sow perennial seeds outside. You want to wait until it’s too cool for the seeds to germinate this fall. Perennial wildflower seeds will germinate and the young plants will establish best if you invest some time in creating a nice seed bed for them first.
Ideally, select a spot where the soil is mostly bare. Pull or dig out remaining weeds. Depending on when you want to plant seeds, you could use cardboard or a tarp to help you kill existing vegetation first. You could also use an herbicide, but make sure you select a product that is labeled as an herbicide. Do NOT mix your own herbicide from ingredients around your home. Always read and follow the label when applying any pesticide, including herbicides.
Loosen the soil. You can use a shovel, rake, digging fork, or other tool, depending on the size of your planting area. You want the soil to be nice and crumbly and have “nooks” for the seeds to fall in to.
Perennial wildflower seeds benefit from soil preparation. If possible, pick a spot where few weeds or other vegetation are growing. Remove whatever vegetation is there to leave bare soil.
If you prepare your soil now (late September), make sure you check it just before you are ready to plant your seeds. Repeat step 2 if necessary to provide your seeds with a nice seed bed. And remove any weeds that may have sprouted!
Between mid-October and December (in central NY), scatter the seed on the soil. If you are using a mixture of wildflower seeds, follow the instructions that came with them to spread the seeds at the correct density. If you are just planting a few seeds, you might sprinkle them in rows so they will be easier for you to spot when they start germinating.
Gently mix the seeds into the soil, but no deeper than ¼ of an inch. Generally, the smaller the seed, the shallower it should be planted. If you have a larger area, a rake is a good tool to use. If you are planting a few seeds per species, you could use a hand rake or even a fork from the kitchen. Get creative!
Press the seeds into the soil. You want the seeds to be pressed tightly against the surrounding soil. You can use your hands, feet, or a roller depending on the area you are planting.
Label your seeds. Make sure you know where to look for your seedlings in the spring! Add some markers to remind you where to look.
You can use your feet to stomp your seeds into the soil ensuring good seed to soil contact.
In Spring 2025 I will share some tips and pictures to help you recognize your seedlings as they start to germinate (amongst the inevitable weeds that will be there, too).
A few words on weeds
Unless you have spent literally years depleting the soil of weed seeds, it is inevitable that there will be some weeds germinating with your perennial wildflower seeds in the spring. If you are planting a larger area with a seed mix and planning to manage (annual) weeds with mowing, this is not such a problem. You will be mowing the area for the first few years to prevent annual weeds from producing seed and effectively reducing the weed seed bank. Like other perennials, your wildflowers will survive the mowing just fine.
If you are planting just a few seeds of each species and carefully marking their location, this will help you know where to look for germinating perennials in the spring. Planting in rows (or some other pattern) may also help, but you’ll need to be careful not to disrupt your pattern when you gently work the seeds into the top ¼ inch of soil.
To get around some of the above weed challenges, I’m told that the “Winter Sowing Method” developed by Trudi Davidoff works well for native perennial wildflowers. But you should probably delay planting the seeds until November or December if you’re using this method. Essentially, you create a mini greenhouse using potting mix in a repurposed transparent plastic container (like a milk jug) with drainage holes. Leaving the container outside and exposed to rain allows the seeds to experience temperature and moisture fluctuations. Since your seeds are planted in potting mix in a discrete container, you won’t be fighting weed seeds and you’ll know where to look for your seedlings. An episode of the Growing Greener podcast describes how this method is used for native perennials.
Check out my full instructions for creating habitat for beneficial insects to learn more about other methods for establishing these plants. And remember that growing perennial wildflowers from seed will take some time. Be patient!
It will be a few years before your wildflowers look like this, but they are worth the wait!
Native plants provide many ecological benefits and make the shores of Seneca Lake even more beautiful.
Native plants are a key component of the green infrastructure the City of Geneva, NY has installed throughout downtown. In addition, numerous volunteers have dedicated countless hours to planting and maintaining native plants along Seneca Lake. The goal is to support native insects, wildlife, and the rest of the ecosystem, reduce water and maintenance needs, increase the ecological resilience of the City, and protect beautiful Seneca Lake.
Perennial wildflowers add both beauty and food for beneficial insects to your yard.
Why grow perennial wildflowers?
Native wildflowers feed and shelter beneficial insects that pollinate our plants and help us control pests. Beneficial insects include a diverse collection of pollinators — not just honey bees — as well as natural enemies (flies, wasps, beetles, bugs and other insects that kill pests). While not technically insects, spiders and predatory mites also serve as natural enemies of pests. Cooperating with insect natural enemies for pest control helps us reduce damage from pests while reducing risks to the environment and people from other pest management strategies like pesticides.
The pollen and nectar produced by these native flowers – and many non-native flowers – either directly feed these friendly insects, or feed other insects that are prey for natural enemies. The leaves and stems also provide shelter for beneficial insects year-round. While we’re focusing on flowers today, many grasses also provide this shelter. Beyond all the ecological benefits, native wildflowers are beautiful!
Preparing perennial seeds to germinate
Growing perennial flowers from seed does take longer, but it can be fun and rewarding!
In this part of the world (now known as upstate New York), seeds from native perennial wildflowers that mature in summer and fall experience a lot of “weathering” between maturation and germination the following spring. This includes cycles of freezing and thawing temperatures as well as varying levels of moisture during the winter. They may even pass through the digestive system of animals. This is why planting perennial wildflower seed in the fall is a great option. You are allowing nature to do the work of preparing the seeds for germination in the spring. If you harvest seeds of native perennial wildflowers and want to start them in the spring with other seeds, you will need to do this work yourself.
Some seeds have very hard seed coats that need to be broken by physical force (for example scratching with sandpaper, a file, or a knife), heat (for example, submerging in boiling water), cold (for example, freezing), or chemicals (like a strong acid). This is called seed scarification. Seeds that require scarification – and those that don’t – may also require stratification, which signals to the seeds that they can “wake up” (called breaking dormancy) and start germinating. Seed stratification generally requires exposing the seeds to the right level of moisture and the right temperature for the right length of time. Some examples include:
Hot water soak – Pour hot water over seeds and allow them to soak overnight or for 24 hours
Cold moist stratification – Mix seeds with sterile sand, vermiculite, or another substance that won’t hold too much moisture. You could also place seeds between layers of a damp paper towel or coffee filter. Make sure that whatever medium you use is only damp and not too wet. Put the mixture in a plastic bag or closed container in your refrigerator for the required amount of time.
If you buy perennial wildflower seeds, they may have already been stratified. Follow the instructions that come with your seed or reach out to the seller for more information.
One way to stratify seeds (prepare them for germination) is to place them in moist potting mix in the refrigerator for several weeks to several months.
Species-specific instructions
Examples of perennial wildflower seeds that benefit from scarification and/or stratification follow. After these seeds are scarified and/or stratified, germination may be improved by putting them in a warm place (but not for all species). Remember that you can always sprinkle seeds on well-prepared, weed-free soil outside in the fall and let the winter do the work for you! Also, your experience germinating these seeds may differ from the recommendations below. There is so much beautiful diversity in these perennial wildflowers!
Blue false indigo (Baptisia australis) – First scarify the seeds. Gently rub them between medium-grit sandpaper to scratch the seed coat. Then use the cold moist stratification method, leaving them in the refrigerator for about 10 days.
New York Ironweed (Vernonia noveboracensis) – Use cold moist stratification, keeping seeds chilled for 60 days.
Asters (Symphyotrichum spp.) – If you look up how to seed asters, you’ll see different instructions for different species, including seeding them in the spring without stratification and using a 60-day cold stratification period. Amara tried germinating Symphyotrichum oblongifolium (aromatic aster) seed and had better luck with cold moist stratification than seeding without stratification. You might see different results with different species.
Milkweed (Asclepias spp.) – Store (well-dried!) seeds in the freezer for several months (e.g., from the time you harvest them in the fall, until you are ready to start them in the spring). Learn more from Petra at Fruition Seeds.
Coreopsis (Coreopsis spp.) – Note that some coreopsis species are annuals in upstate NY. Perennial species will likely germinate best with cold moist stratification (30-60 days, depending on species).
Echinacea (Echinacea purpurea) – These seeds will likely germinate just fine if you plant them in moist soil and provide warmth (e.g., a heat mat) just as you would annual seeds.
Blazing star (Liatris spicata) – Moist stratify for 60 days before planting seeds.
Beard tongue (Penstemon spp.) – Cold stratify for 30-60 days before planting seeds. Some species may require light for germination. Cover seed of these species with only a very thin layer of potting mix (if any) and provide light when germinating.
Mountain mints (Pycnanthemum spp.) – You should be able to germinate seeds without stratification, but they will likely germinate better with light. Cover seed with only a very thin layer of potting mix (if any) and provide light when germinating.
Rudbeckia (Rudbeckia spp.) – Different species of Rudbeckia may require different stratification (or none) for seed to germinate. For many species, cold moist stratification for at least 30 days is recommended.
Goldenrod (Solidago spp.) – There are many species. Most will likely germinate best if seed is moist stratified for 60 days, and then receive light after seeding. Cover seed with only a very thin layer of potting mix (if any) and provide light when germinating.
Spiderwort (Tradescantia ohiensis) – For this species, you are better off direct-seeding in the fall. The recommended cold moist stratification period is 120 days, and these seeds will germinate better in cool soil.
Golden alexanders (Zizia aurea) – You may have better luck sowing these seeds outside in the fall than trying to start them inside in the spring. Their leaves are fairly distinctive (like celery) so seedlings are easier to spot outdoors. If you do want to try starting them indoors, use a 60-day cold moist stratification.
For some of the species that require longer stratification, you may be worried that you’re running out of time this spring. Remember that even after you have prepared your seeds to germinate, they will likely need around 6 weeks to germinate and grow big enough to consider transplanting outdoors. Don’t despair! Fall is a great time to transplant perennial wildflowers. And perhaps your heat mats and grow lights (or other seed germination spot) are otherwise occupied starting annual vegetable and herb transplants this spring. If you start stratifying seeds in early May, even those that require 60 days in the fridge will be ready for germination in early July. Then your seedlings will have plenty of time to grow big and strong before fall transplanting. Just be sure to keep them watered.
Echinacea and goldenrod are just two species of native perennial wildflowers that feed beneficial insects.
For the past six years, we’ve been cultivating perennial grasses and wildflowers that feed and support beneficial insects. All of these plants came from seeds—whether sown by us or by others—and we’ll focus this year’s annual open house on these wonderful seeds.
Come join folks from New York State Integrated Pest Management, and Petra Page-Mann from Fruition Seeds to talk about how we harvest, clean, store, and germinate seeds of perennial wildflowers that support beneficial insects. Stop by our open house between 3:30 and 6:30 p.m on Thursday, August 17. We’ll offer guided explorations of our established plots of perennial wildflowers and grasses at 3:45, 4:45, and 5:45 p.m. You are also welcome to explore the field on your own, or browse our interactive resources on display. There will be a few hard copies of resources available at the event, and we’ll continue to add digital resources to this folder up to and following the event. Everyone will go home with seeds of native perennial plants that support beneficial insects.
No registration needed for this free event. Find all the details at our event page. When you arrive at the entrance to the farm, look for signs with the pink echinacea flower and the Christmas tree on them, and follow the signs to our field.
Follow these signs to find our field!
Funds for this project were provided by NYS Dept of Ag and Markets and the USDA National Institute of Food and Ag.
These bees are just two of the beneficial insects you’ll want to protect from pesticides.
Hopefully we can all agree that protecting friendly insects (pollinators and natural enemies of pests) on our farms and in our gardens and landscapes is important. We want to manage pests, without hurting bees, butterflies, ladybugs, parasitoid wasps, minute pirate bugs, hover flies, ground beetles, and so many more of our insect friends. Using IPM tools other than pesticides is a great way to do this. When it is necessary to use pesticides as an IPM tool, how do you choose a pesticide – whether it is organic, conventional, or biological – that poses the least risk?
Practices that help reduce risk to beneficial insects
No matter how hazardous or toxic any substance is, insects are only at risk if they are exposed to that substance. By using integrated pest management practices like crop rotation, sanitation, and scouting for pests, you can reduce the number of pesticide applications needed to manage pests. Making fewer pesticide applications is a great way to start protecting beneficial insects. Some pesticides are particularly dangerous to insects because they linger so long in the environment after they are applied (have a long residual), posing a greater risk. Other pesticides quickly break down in the environment after being applied to plants, so they pose less risk.
Wild bees are important pollinators of cucurbit flowers. We can thank them for many of our pumpkins, squashes, cucumbers, and melons.
Being careful about when you apply a pesticide can also reduce the likelihood that a beneficial insect will be exposed to it. Bees are less active at certain times of day (especially early morning and evening). However, some wild bee species forage at different times of day. For example, squash bees are early risers, and can be found visiting squash, pumpkin, and cucumber flowers before honey or bumble bees are active. Check the area where you plan to apply a pesticide, and pick a different time if bees are present. Some pesticide labels require that you do not apply that product while bees are foraging. Some pesticides will still harm bees that visit a flower some time after the pesticide is applied. Avoiding pesticide applications when plants are flowering will provide additional protection to beneficial insects, but may not be practical on all crops.
Where you apply pesticides also matters. Have you planted some habitat for beneficial insects? Prevent pesticide spray drift into these habitats. Are there flowers blooming amongst the grass on the orchard floor? Mowing them before you spray the fruit trees overhead could make insects less likely to visit during or right after you spray.
Resources to consult
First, read the pesticide label (and follow it). The label is the law and will have instructions on how to protect pollinators and other non-target organisms when using a pesticide.
If you know the pesticides you are considering, and especially if you know the specific natural enemies you are trying to protect, you can find some good information from companies that sell beneficial insects, or pesticides. I am aware of searchable databases or charts describing pesticide compatibility from four companies that sell (mostly) arthropod and nematode natural enemies: Agrobio, Biobest, BioWorks, and Koppert.
EIQ stands for Environmental Impact Quotient. You can read more details on the NYSIPM website, but in a nutshell the EIQ quantifies the risks of pesticides. You can use the EIQ calculator on our website to compare these numbers for different pesticides at the rates you plan to use them. The higher the number, the higher the risk. There are different components to the EIQ; risks to consumers, workers, and the environment (ecological). The ecological risk includes risks to natural enemies (as well as fish, birds, and bees). The EIQ calculator will give you an overall EIQ value as well as values for each category of risk (consumers, workers, ecological). Or, you can download this spreadsheet of EIQ values for pesticides, and sort by values for bees or beneficials (columns P and Q).
The Cornell Pollinator Network produces Pollinator Protection Guides for an increasing number of crop groups to help you understand the toxicity of different pesticide active ingredients to bees.
Larvae (maggots) of this hover fly are excellent aphid predators. Killing your hover flies with pesticides could contribute to an aphid outbreak.
A few pesticides to avoid
You’re using good IPM, and you still need to use an insecticide. You’re trying to choose. I used information I collected from a few different sources (listed at the end of this post) to categorize some insecticides as “most” or “moderately” harmful. These are not exhaustive lists.
Most harmful to beneficial insects:
Carbaryl – active ingredient found in some products called Sevin
Natural pyrethrins – PyGanic is one product with this active ingredient; similar to synthetic pyrethroids, but this active ingredient degrades quickly in the environment (short residual)
Synthetic pyrethroids – active ingredients include bifenthrin, cypermethrin, lambda-cyhalothrin, permethrin, and others; can be found in products called Sevin, Eight, Warrior, and others; similar to natural pyrethrins, but last much longer in the environment (long residual)
Spinetoram – Radiant is one product that contains this active ingredient; a synthetic version of spinosad, but more toxic to beneficial insects than spinosad
Moderately harmful to beneficial insects:
Azadirachtin – active ingredient found in products such as Aza-Direct, Azaguard, Neemix
Bifenazate – active ingredient found in products such as Acramite
Chlorantraniliprole – active ingredient found in Coragen; among natural enemies, parasitoid wasps are probably most at risk. There may be some synergistic effects on bees when combined with other pesticides (see Cornell Pollinator Protection Guides)
Indoxacarb – active ingredient found in products such as Avaunt
Insecticidal soaps – active ingredient is potassium salts of fatty acids and can be found in M-Pede and many other products; most harmful to soft-bodied insects (including predatory mites), while beetles may be less susceptible
Spinosad – active ingredient in Entrust; similar to spinetoram, but it is the natural version of this chemical; not as toxic to beneficial insects as spinetoram
So what are the alternatives?
Remember that pesticides, by definition, are toxic to some living things; that’s why they kill and repel pests. There is no such thing as a completely safe pesticide. But here are a few insecticides that are gentlest on beneficial insects. And let me reiterate: Reducing the use of pesticides through good IPM is the best way to protect insects from pesticides.
Beauveria bassiana – several strains of this fungus are active ingredients in different insecticides, including BotaniGard
Bt or Bacillus thuringiensis – bacterial active ingredient in pesticides such as Agree, Dipel, and others; quite specific to the insect groups specified on the label; different subspecies are effective against different groups of insects
Flonicamid – active ingredient in Beleaf
Horticultural oils – there are many different active ingredients that fall in this group; may be more toxic to bees than to natural enemies, but require direct contact with the insect
Cordyceps (formerly Isaria or Paecilomyces) fumosorosea – another fungal active ingredient found in products such as PFR-97
Clarified hydrophobic neem oil – Note that “whole” neem oil contains azadirachtin (which I listed in the “moderately harmful group”), while clarified hydrophobic neem oil does not. Azadirachtin is extracted from neem oil, leaving the clarified hydrophobic neem oil behind.
This cute little insect is a minute pirate bug. In addition to munching on pollen, it will also eat small pests like thrips, mites, and small caterpillars.
A few reminders…
Remember that the information in this post is not a substitute for a pesticide label. The label is the law, and you must read and follow the label of any pesticide you are using. Laws and labels change. It is your responsibility to use pesticides legally. Trade or company names used here are for convenience and information only; no endorsement of products or companies is intended, nor is criticism of unnamed products or companies implied.
Just because a pesticide isn’t on the “most” or “moderately” harmful lists above, does not mean it is harmless to insects. These lists are not exhaustive, and for some products insufficient information exists.
Sources consulted:
Pesticide compatibility checkers from two companies that sell arthropod biocontrol agents: Koppert and Biobest
Cooler days and more moisture make fall a less-stressful time for transplanting perennials.
You’ve probably heard that fall is the best time to plant perennials (including seed for perennial wildflowers). Are you planning to start or expand a planting that supports pollinators and natural enemies of pests (beneficial insects) this fall? Trying to decide what to plant? I wanted to make sure you know about some resources from NYSIPM (some of them new this summer) that can help!
Who are you trying to attract?
Some lady beetle species weed on pollen, in addition to aphids and other insects.
The good news is that flowers that produce lots of pollen and nectar and provide season-long blooms (usually as part of a mixed planting) will support a diverse group of both natural enemies that eat pests and pollinators. If you want to get a bit more specific than that, you might consider checking out:
Natural Enemies and What They Eat in the Field – Targeting a particular pest? This chart can help you determine which natural enemies will help.
(New!) Pocket Guide to Beneficial Insects – This guide was created for urban growers in New York City, but fortunately all of the beneficial insects in the Guide can be found throughout NY. It will help you recognize beneficial insects when you see them.
These resources are linked from this page. The NYSIPM website is in the process of migrating, and I’ll update this link once this page moves. You can also read about “friends in the garden” (natural enemies) that you’ll find on the ground and on plants or flying through the air in previous blog posts.
Picking plants
Choosing a mixture of flowering plants can provide season-long blooms for beneficial insects.
Plants for Natural Enemies (full list) – A very large spreadsheet summarizing data from university research and extension resources; Everything I could find about individual plant species and which insects (especially natural enemies) they support.
(New!) Plants for Natural Enemies (2 pg handout) – Much shorter table listing 26 plants (perennials and annuals) that will support natural enemies (and pollinators); Bloom times are for central NY, and may vary in other locations (especially different USDA plant hardiness zones).
These resources are also linked from this page. And I’ve written a few blog posts about choosing plants (here and here).
Next week is full of great biocontrol events! If you are in the Geneva, NY area, don’t miss out!
Thursday August 11 5:30-7:30 PM
Participants enjoying last year’s Habitat for Beneficial Insects Open House.
We are in our 5th year of establishing perennial wildflowers and grasses to support pollinators and natural enemies of pests. Perhaps you’ve been following our progress (although admittedly I owe you all an update post or two). Or maybe you keep up with pictures on my Instagram. Now you can see these plots for yourself at our Habitat for Beneficial Insects Open House!
Come visit us any time between 5:30 and 7:30 PM. This outdoor event is free and no registration is required. Just put this address into your GPS:
1097 County Rd. 4
Geneva, NY 14456
Then look for these signs:
Funds for this project were provided by NYS Dept of Ag and Markets, the Towards Sustainability Foundation, and the USDA National Institute of Food and Ag.
Friday August 12, 5-7:30 PM
Bryan Brown talking about integrated weed management at last year’s event.
As part of a larger Christmas tree IPM project, we’re looking at using biopesticides applied to Christmas tree roots at planting to protect the young trees from root diseases (especially Phytophthora). We’re having a Field Day so that you can see both acres of Christmas trees we’ve planted and learn about early results from the project.
Please do register for this event using the “Field Day” link above!
Like the Habitat for Beneficial Insect Open House, put this address into your GPS:
1097 County Rd. 4
Geneva, NY 14456
Then look for these signs:
This work is supported by Agriculture and Food Research Initiative – Foundational and Applied Science Grant no. 2021-68008-34179/project accession no. 1025660 from the USDA National Institute of Food and Agriculture.
Saturday August 13, 10 AM – 3 PM
This year we planted two new raised beds with perennials that support beneficial insects.
NYS IPM will be at Cornell AgriTech’s 140th Anniversary Open House talking about how to “feed your insect friends”…by creating excellent habitat for them, of course! This spring we planted two raised beds with a mixture of perennials selected to provide pollen and nectar from spring through fall. Come see how these new plantings are growing, learn more about beneficial insects and how to create your own habitat, and pick up some (temporary) tattoos of pest natural enemies! Then visit the rest of the educational displays at Cornell AgriTech.
Funding for our displays at this event is being provided by Cornell AgriTech and NYS Dept of Environmental Conservation.
I don’t know about you, but I can’t wait to get some seeds into potting mix and some plans for my garden on paper! While you’re planning your garden, why not join NYS IPM for our virtual conference? This year we’re talking about “Biological Control: Partners in the Garden” and we’ve got a great line up of speakers!
Carol Glenister form IPM Labs talks about looking for signs that natural enemies (biocontrol agents) are already at work in your garden
John Losey from Cornell University talks about everyone’s favorite biocontrol agent – ladybugs
NYS IPM staff will talk about biocontrol for weeds (is there any?), conserving our biocontrol partners in the garden, and more!
Mary Centrella from the Cornell Pesticide Safety Education Program will talk about proper use of pesticides to protect garden partners
Kyle Wickings will talk about using tiny worms (entomopathogenic nematodes) to deal with lawn grubs
The conference will take place the mornings of Tuesday and Wednesday March 15 and 16, with a special interactive workshop being offered (by yours truly) on Tuesday afternoon (1-3 PM). You’ll receive some pre-workshop materials to help you get the most out of the workshop, and leave with a plan to plant flowers that will feed and support natural enemies in your garden.
The conference is just a little more than a week away, so register soon! Pay what you can afford, and please reach out if the registration fee is a barrier. NYS IPM is committed to making this conference (and all of our resources) accessible.
Fall leaves are beautiful…but fall garden clean-up isn’t always fun. Maybe skip some of that clean-up this year.
If you have been procrastinating on your fall garden clean-up (like me), I’ve got good news for you! You may want to just erase some of those tasks from your to-do list altogether. And you can do it guilt-free!
As you may recall from my post this spring, a messy garden provides good shelter for friendly insects like pollinators and natural enemies of pests over the winter. Whether it’s leaves on the ground or dead plant stems, it’s not a bad idea to leave at least some debris in your yard and garden. The Xerces Society provides a nice summary of the benefits fallen leaves offer to insects and other creatures. You can read an eloquent description of all the benefits of a messy yard here.
As these plants continue to senesce, I will leave the stems in the garden over the winter.
Just to prove I’m putting my money where my mouth is, here are some pictures from my own yard. I’m thinking about cutting down the sunflower stalks and propping them up next to my compost bin in the back yard, just to make things a little tidier in the front yard.
These sunflowers, cosmos, and zinnia plants are no longer looking so nice. But I will leave many of them in the garden until spring.
I’m going to still take out (and send to my local municipal compost facility) my vegetable plants (tomatoes and peppers). Leaving dead stems from healthy plants in your garden is one thing, but this year’s vegetable plants can harbor next year’s vegetable diseases and insect pests if left over the winter. Disposing of diseased or insect-infested plants away from your garden is just good IPM.
A few more caveats…
First, you should know that ticks complicate the simple advice to “leave the leaves”. If you’ve had problems with ticks in your yard (learn how to monitor for ticks here), be strategic about where you leave things messy, and where you clean them up. For example, consider cleaning up areas where your family and pets spend more time. You should also be careful about where you pile leaves. My co-worker Joellen explains why here. And definitely use other IPM strategies to protect yourself from ticks, regardless of your yard clean-up plans.
This was the leaf (and other plant debris) pile in my backyard this spring. Piles like this can shelter lots of invertebrates…including ticks.
Second, if you’ve got a garden bed in the front yard that you just can’t stand to leave messy through the winter, it’s ok to clean it up and not feel guilty. Maybe pick another part of your yard that you can leave a bit messy instead. Don’t let the perfect become the enemy of the good.
Happy Fall!
This post was written by Amara Dunn, Biocontrol Specialist with the NYSIPM program. All images are hers, unless otherwise noted.
This work is supported by:
New York State Department of Agriculture and Markets
New York State Department of Environmental Conservation
