Tag Archives: gardening resources

Holiday Plants: A Horticultural View

By Madelene Knaggs, New Windsor Master Gardener Volunteer

The holiday season has come and gone, but let’s take a minute to look back at some of the plants that played such a prominent role in our festivities.  Whether we observed Christmas, Chanukkah, Kwanzaa, or the Winter Solstice, trees, herbs and plants were most likely a part of the celebration.  Much has been written about the cultural aspects and origins of the plant life used as part of our celebration and seasonal decoration.  This article will focus on the geographic origins, growing environment, and propagation of our holiday flora.

Evergreens

Photo: Close up of needles on a pine tree
Pine needles

Christmas and Winter Solstice celebrations throughout the world use evergreens for both decorative and symbolic reasons.  The “Yule” or “Christmas” tree is generally a decorated evergreen conifer tree, such as a pine, fir, cedar, juniper, or spruce. The tradition began with ancient civilizations in the Middle East, Asia, and Europe. The modern custom developed in 16th century Germany and became popular in other European nations and North America during the 19th century. The tree’s decorations and lights symbolized stellar objects, spirits of the dead, religious events, important figures, and sometimes provided edible treats.

Photo: A field of short conical shaped white pine trees
Christmas tree farm

An evergreen is a plant which has green foliage throughout the year and in most colloquial references it applies to coniferous evergreens such as pine, spruce, and fir.  Although many characteristics can be used to distinguish one coniferous evergreen from another, let’s concentrate on the needles. Pine trees are easy to distinguish as their needles are bundled in sheaths of two, three, or five needles.  If the tree has single needles along the branch, it’s a good chance that it is a fir or a spruce.  Fir needles are flat and do not roll between your fingers while spruce needles have four sides and rolls easily between your fingers.

Although some people may go into the woods to find and cut a tree for their celebration, most trees are commercially grown.  According to the National Christmas Tree Association it can take anywhere between 4 and 15 years to grow the typical 6-7 foot tree, but the average is 7 years.  Spruce and fir are the most popular because of their shape, needle retention, and fragrance.  Trees are harvested in the fall when temperatures begin to drop and trees are full hydrated.  With proper “watering” a cut tree can last up to month or more indoors and provide festive beauty for the early winter season. So it is possible that you are still enjoying your Christmas tree now.

Holly

Drawing of a wreath made of hollyHolly (Ilex spp.) provides deep green and rich red color for the winter season.  There are many species of holly including our native American holly (Ilex opaca) and common holly (llex aquifolium) which is native to parts of Europe, Asia, and Africa.  In ancient cultures, the holly tree symbolized the waning sun which leads to the winter solstice.  Holly was used to create wreathes to decorate homes.  Placing a ring of holly on doors originated in Ireland. Holly decorations were believed to bring protection and good luck to the home’s residents in the coming year.

Dark green leaves on an American Holly Tree with bright red berries
Ilex opaco

Hollies have simple leaves that are arranged alternately on the branches.  Most hollies have leaves with wavy margins tipped with spines.  Although most hollies are evergreens, some species like the native deciduous holly (Ilex decidua) lose their leaves in the fall.  Hollies have small white or green flowers that are often overlooked, but their bright red berries provide beautiful winter color and are an important source of food for many bird species.

A large 20 foot conical shaped holly tree
Holly tree

Most holly species are dioecious meaning that they have separate male and female plants.  In order to produce seeds, you’ll need one of each.  And if you want to have red berries, make sure you get a female plant.  Hollies can be a great addition to your home garden.  They do best when grown in full sun to part shade and prefer moist, well-drained, slightly acidic soil.

Poinsettias

Photo: a close-up of the bright red leaves of a poinsettia surrounding the small yellow flowers
Small yellow flowers of a poinsettia

Poinsettias (Euphorbia pulcherrima) add color and brightness to our winter décor.  The colorful ‘petals’ of the poinsettia are actually not petals at all, but modified leaves known as bracts.  Poinsettias are natives of Mexico and Central America where they are called ‘Flor de Nochebuena’ or the Christmas Eve Flower.  Here in the United States, they are known as poinsettias after Joel Roberts Poinsett, a diplomat and amateur botanist, who introduced the plant into the country in 1828.

Poinsettias grow in temperate coastal climates and will suffer damage if exposed to temperatures below 50°F.  The ideal indoor growing temperature for your poinsettias is between 65°F and 70°F and they should be placed in a south, east, or west facing window that receives bright daylight.

Bright red 'leaves' of poinsettiasPoinsettias are an attractive green plant most of the year and come late spring they can be brought outside and either kept in containers or transplanted into a part-sun garden that gets four to five hours of sun a day.  Getting your green poinsettia to change color for the holiday season is an onerous task and requires excluding light from the plant for period of time while still keeping the plant healthy.  Click here for a complete guide to year-round poinsettia care.  Good luck if you decide to try and get your poinsettias to re-bloom this coming winter!

Mistletoe

Photo: Large tree barren of leaves but covered with sevral large green balls of mistletoeMistletoe has long been associated with winter holiday traditions and is the common name for several families of poisonous, evergreen parasitic plants.  In nature mistletoe can been found attached to and penetrating the branches of trees and shrubs alike.  According to Norse legends, couples who met under hanging mistletoe were obliged to kiss. Here in North America mistletoe is commonly used as a Christmas decoration and is generally a plant from the genus Phoradendron.

Mistletoe (Phoradendron spp.) produces small berries that are a favorite wintertime snack for birds.  The seeds then pass through the bird and are excreted high up in the trees where the birds roost.  Its seeds are sticky to keep them from falling to the ground, where they would be unable to sprout and develop into mature plants.

Christmas Cactus

Photo: Bright pink flower of a Christmas catcus The Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera x buckleyi) is a hybrid bred from plants native to the coastal mountains of Brazil.  This popular holiday plant has beautiful blooms in early winter.  Although full sunlight is beneficial during fall and winter, bright sun during the summer months can make plants look pale and yellow. Christmas cacti depend upon shorter day lengths and cooler temperatures to set their flower buds.  Once flower buds are set do not let temperatures rise above 90°F or the buds will drop. The holiday cacti are tolerant of dry, slightly under-watered conditions and tend to thrive when pot bound.  When properly tended, this blooming succulent can live for a 100 years!

Salvia

Photo: Branching strucutre of the salvia with green leaves and spikes of flowers
Salvia fruticosa

The salvia plant (Salvia fruticosa) also known as Greek sage is native to the eastern Mediterranean.  Its structure resembles the description of the menorah found in the book of Exodus and is likely the floral candidate after which the menorah was modeled.  Salvias are members of the mint family and have square stems and are usually strongly aromatic with leaves rich in essential oils.

If you want to add a salvia plant to your garden, there are many species to choose from.  There are both annuals and perennials and come in a wide range of sizes and colors.  Ornamental salvias produce beautiful flower spikes that attract a variety of pollinators with their sweet fragrance and colorful blooms.

Corn

Photo: Multi-colored cornCorn is one of the seven symbols used during Kwanzaa celebrations.  Muhindi (moo-heen’-dee) means corn and represents children and the future.  Corn was first domesticated by peoples in southern Mexico about 10,000 years ago and it is believed to have been derived from a wild grass known as teosinte (Zea mays parviglumis).

When most people think of corn they think of sweet corn, but most corn grown in the United States is actually field corn which unlike sweet corn, is harvested when the kernels are hard and dry.  Field corn is used as livestock feed and used to make corn starch, whiskey, oils, margarines, and bio-fuels.  The United States is the largest corn producer in the world and it is grown in most parts of the country including Alaska and Hawaii. Corn does best with warm, sunny growing weather (75–86°F) and moderate rains.


As you can see, plants play an important part in holiday celebrations and have very diverse horticultural origins and applications.  As you continue to enjoy this winter season, think about planting or propagating these symbols as a way to personalize your holiday celebration next winter!

Book Reviews

Photo: Person with long brown hair, wearing comfy socks and sweat pants, sitting on the floor in front of a blazing fire place reading a book as a black and white cat rests its head on their legWinter has arrived!  While there isn’t much to be doing outside in our gardens, the winter is a great opportunity to spend time learning more about gardening.  So grab one of these books recommended by our Master Gardener Volunteers, sit by the fire, and spend time cultivating your mind this winter.


Book List

Freedom’s Gardener: James F. Brown, Horticulture, and the Hudson Valley in Antebellum America by Myra Beth Young Armstead

Garden Alchemy: 80 Recipes and Concoctions for Organic Fertilizers, Plant Elixirs, Potting Mixes, Pest Deterrents, and More by Stephanie Rose

Good Garden Bugs by Mary M. Gardiner, Ph. D.

The Know Maintenance Perennial Garden by Roy Diblik

Natural Companions: The Garden Lover’s Guide to Plant Combinations by Ken Druse

Square Foot Gardening with Kids by Mel Bartholomew

The Week-by-Week Vegetable Gardner’s Handbook by Ron and Jennifer Kujawski

The Weekend Homesteader: A Twelve Month Guide to Self-Sufficiency by Anna Hess

The Well-Gardened Mind: The Restorative Power of Nature by Sue Stuart-Smith

A Year at Brandywine Cottage by David L. Culp

Your Wellbeing Garden: How to Make Your Garden Good for You – Science, Design, Function by D.K. Publishing


Book Cover: Freedom's Gardener - Drawing of four-petaled white violetFreedom’s Gardener: James F. Brown, Horticulture, and the Hudson Valley in Antebellum America

by Myra Beth Young Armstead

Reviewed by Madelene Knaggs, New Windsor Master Gardener Volunteer

Freedom’s Gardener
is impeccably researched and full of detail. It is the kind of book that grabs the attention of readers interested in gardening, local history, Black history, and the concept of freedom. Armstead, a professor of history at Bard College, extracts small details from the diary of James F. Brown to compose a story illustrating the concept of freedom as it developed in the United States in the decades following the Revolutionary War.

James F. Brown was born a slave in 1793 and died a free man in 1868. He escaped slavery in Maryland to the Hudson Valley of New York State, where he was employed as a gardener by the wealthy Verplanck family in Beacon, NY (on what is presently the Mount Gulian Historic Site).

Brown kept a detailed diary over 39 years, with entries covering weather, gardening, and steamboat schedules, as well as domestic matters. James began his career with the Verplancks as a waiter and a laborer, but eventually assumed the duties as the Verplanck Estate’s master gardener. He managed and supervised garden, farm, and nursery workers. He was also responsible for making major purchases for the Verplanck house and garden. He frequently interacted in Newburgh with Andrew Jackson Downing, the famed lAmerican landscape designer and editor of The Horticulturist magazine (1846–1852). Brown attended the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society Show in Philadelphia as well as the New York Horticultural Society Exhibition.

This book has been recommended by the Library Journal to historians of antebellum America and the social aspects of horticulture, as well as those interested in historical diaries. Armstead’s well-researched study of Brown’s work greatly expands our understanding of the Hudson Valley and the people and plants that have shaped it.

Back to Book List


Book Cover: Garden Alchemy - Photo containing an assortment of flowers and herbsGarden Alchemy: 80 Recipes and Concoctions for Organic Fertilizers, Plant Elixirs, Potting Mixes, Pest Deterrents, and More

by Stephanie Rose

Reviewed by Mary Presutti, New Windsor Master Gardener Volunteer

As a newly minted Master Gardener Volunteer, I frequently turn to my class notes for advice in the garden. Now I have another, more portable source. In this one handy, slim volume, Canadian Master Gardener Stephanie Rose has compiled a nifty hands-on guide with useful recipes to get everyone’s garden in top shape.

The book is loaded with step-by-step instructions beginning with homemade methods to test your soil, then on to recipes for soil amendment, custom mulch, compost boosters, fertilizers, garden teas, potting soils, and even a method to produce your own worm castings. The ingredients are common items available in your home.

Even wildlife has not been left out. There are techniques for encouraging as well as discouraging nature in the garden. Some of my plants go outdoors in the summer months. They invariably bring fungus gnats back indoors in the fall. She has a fix to keep them away. She also includes a bottle trap for flies, wasps, and stinkbugs—all with their own individual bait recipes.

As a plus, Ms. Rose has included some fun activities to keep gardeners occupied while their plants are sleeping this winter season. You can make seed bombs, suet holders, butterfly puddlers, and more.

Garden Alchemy is chock full of beautiful, interesting photographs and diagrams that complement the easy to understand, straight to the point text. I recommend it for all gardeners.

Back to Book List


Book Cover: Good Garden Bugs - Photo of a black and yellow stripped hover fly resting in the center of a bright yellow flowerGood Garden Bugs

by Mary M. Gardiner, Ph.D.

Review by Donna Beyer, New Windsor Master Gardener Volunteer

All gardeners must deal with bugs — good bugs, bad bugs — but some of us aren’t sure which is which. Good Garden Bugs is directed to the home gardener who might not know the difference. As gardeners, we invest time and effort into making our gardens the most beautiful and productive they can be, yet bugs can present challenges to our efforts. Most of us understand the need for good bugs, but sometimes find it difficult to live in harmony with them.

The book begins by providing information on the classification, anatomy, and the life cycle of garden bugs. The information helps the gardener understand how each stage of a bug’s development has different enemies and threats, and is presented in a way that non-academics can understand. How bugs overwinter and mature provides the gardener with valuable insight into promoting good garden bugs.

The chapter that discusses controls we use to regulate bug populations can help gardeners understand how their actions affect them. This section also stresses the need for native plants to promote healthy habitats that support good bug populations.

The chapters that follow are the core of the book. Each subsequent chapter is dedicated to an order of bug that describes the unique attributes and common examples of bugs that fall into that order. The book also includes large color photos with descriptions of each.

Over half the chapters are dedicated to wasps, beetles, and spiders. These bugs are the most plentiful and can be difficult to identify. These orders can do serious damage to plants and humans alike, so being able to identify these “good” bugs is especially important. Gardeners want to promote good bugs that fall into these orders, but also want to protect themselves and their gardens.

Currently, in the age of the internet, having a resource you can carry to the garden that will assist with pest identification is invaluable. This book is slim but does not skimp on content and is a valuable addition to a home gardener’s library.

Back to Book List


Book Cover: The Know Maintenance Perennial Garden - Photo of perennial garden with purple flowers in bloomThe Know Maintenance Perennial Garden

by Roy Diblik

Reviewed by Cecille Jones, Monroe Master Gardener Volunteer

If the title of this book doesn’t hook you, perhaps the words on the cover will. In red ink, it loudly declares knowing your plants means less work. Or perhaps you’ve heard of Roy Diblik, the renowned plantsman behind the Lurie Garden at Millennium Park in Chicago.

Diblik’s approach to gardening stresses harmony with how plants grow and interact with each other. He advocates knowing your plants so you can plant them in self-sustaining communities. By doing so, you will spend less time maintaining them and more time enjoying them.

The author focuses on perennials because he believes they are the foundation of durable, diverse and beautiful gardens. According to Diblik, once you’re familiar with perennials, then you will recognize how and when to add annuals, vegetables, herbs, shrubs and trees.

Diblik believes that traditional gardening has become so culturally defined over the last 50 years that it is now a source of frustration and defeat for most gardeners.

In the first four chapters, he covers the basics – from understanding plant growth to soil, light, site preparation, and more. Chapter 5 covers 74 key perennials selected for their dependability, suitability to the northern half of the U.S., adaptability to soil & seasonal changes, and durability.

The true treasure is saved for Chapter 6 and beyond, where Diblik provides more than 60 garden plans, each designed to cover a 10 – 14’ rectangle, categorized by plans for growing in sun or shade, and complete with notes on care and maintenance. Assuming you are diligent about care and maintenance, Diblik claims that each plan should take about 3 to 4 hours of work per week.

Diblik’s approach will put you on a path to a style of gardening that stresses harmony, simplicity and enjoyment.

Back to Book List


Book Cover: Natural Companions - Photo of several colorful flower blossoms and colorful leaves arranged on a black backgroundNatural Companions: The Garden Lover’s Guide to Plant Combinations

by Ken Druse

Reviewed by Gerda Krogslund, Middletown Senior Master Gardener Volunteer

For this book, author Ken Druse worked in conjunction with artist Ellen Hoverkamp who provided the beautiful botanical photographs throughout. Each chapter explores plants in a different light looking at season, family, form, function, color, spirit of place, or theme.

Take a journey through the seasons starting with signs of spring and continuing through the year concluding with winter and new awakenings. Learn about different plant families and delve into the numerous varieties found in each. Form follows function – examine the many different shapes, textures, structures and growth habit of flowers and other plants. Be inspired by pictures of flowers with both similar colors and exciting color combinations. Consider the spirit of place and think about what you can plant in woodlands, meadows, wetlands, rain gardens, and rock gardens. Explore themed gardens grown for fragrance, roses, pollinators, birds, cutting, edible plants, herbs, medicinal plants, and toxic plants.

This is not a “how-to” manual but a book that suggests possible plant combinations for your consideration. It gives you lots of ideas in which you can take your reliable basic plants and add others to make your garden even more spectacular. Ken Druse knows that gardening is very personable and suggests that while you read through the book, you make lists of combinations that appeal to you.

A garden is never really complete but more a work in progress as we continually experiment with new plants and new plant arrangements. I’ve spent hours going through this book and I know I’ll come back again and again.

Back to Book List


Book Cover: Square Foot Gardening with Kids - Small boy picking tomatoesSquare Foot Gardening with Kids

by Mel Bartholomew

Reviewed by Brooke Moore, New Windsor Master Gardener Volunteer

Getting children interested in growing food and learning more about the natural world is an admirable goal. And one that does not have to be boring or pedantic.

This lovely book by the master of Square Foot Gardening, provides kids from toddlers to teens with all the tools they need to build, manage, grow and harvest a vegetable garden. It encourages starting small and building more as confidence and experience lead one to wanting a larger planting area.

With a format that provides age-appropriate tasks and goals at every step, this book also works for the whole family. I loved that there are clues to help parents not be overly involved but rather encourage the children to figure out how to do things themselves. It covers building raised beds, making soil mixes, how to make a grid system, water issues, protecting plants from predators, best growing practices, and much more.

Teachers and classroom projects are also a part of the book, and these can be used by anyone. Math, science, art, and history are all related to gardening, and the book provides simple and interesting activities to bring these skills into the garden and to use the garden to develop entirely new ones. Measuring, weighing, keeping a planting journal are all well described and encouraged. There are good photos and illustrations for each step and lots of handy tips and “how to” suggestions.

This is a book with “kids” in the title, but it truly is a book for anyone and everyone interested in exploring how to use this simple system to have a successful garden harvest.

Back to Book List


Book Cover: The Week-by-Week Vegetable Gardener's HandbookThe Week-by-Week Vegetable Gardner’s Handbook

by Ron and Jennifer Kujawski

Reviewed by Kimberly Marshall, Washingtonville Master Gardener Volunteer

If there were only one vegetable gardening book I could use throughout the gardening year, it would be The Week-by-Week Vegetable Gardener’s Handbook by Ron and Jennifer Kujawski. This dynamic father-and-daughter gardening duo have made an indispensable resource that should grace the bookshelves of vegetable gardeners everywhere.

It provides week-by-week vegetable gardening how-to’s that coincide with each planting season. A chart at the beginning of the book helps you identify where you are in your own area’s growing season, using your first and last frost dates as a guide. For example, if your last frost date is mid-May, as it is for many of us here in Orange County, you enter that date in the calendar’s “Week 1,” which starts your weekly to-do’s (first week, two weeks out, three weeks out, etc.).

Based on these dates, the book explains which week to start seeds indoors, plant cover crops, look for pests, harvest your crops, and fertilize each and every vegetable you can think of, with plenty of gardening tips and tricks along the way. There are even steps for gardening in the winter, with instructions for planning gardens and ordering seeds, so you can work on or think about your garden all year long.

The book also includes space for journaling your thoughts and experiences. There is ample room for notes in each section to remind yourself of what you planted and any issues you might have experienced, helping you to avoid making the same mistakes the following year.

If you’re looking for a step-by-step vegetable gardening book that tells you exactly what to do and when to do it, give this one a try—especially if you find the idea of vegetable gardening a bit overwhelming, like I do. It breaks everything down into easy steps, making even the scariest parts of gardening seem effortless while helping you realize what’s truly possible for your garden along the way.

Back to Book List


Book Cover: The Weekend Homesteader - Grid of gardening photos: pea shoots, rubber boots, chicken, peppers, etc.The Weekend Homesteader: A Twelve Month Guide to Self-Sufficiency

by Anna Hess

Reviewed by Robin Portelli, Cornwall Master Gardener Volunteer

As I was perusing through gardening books on the Libby App from my local library, the book title, The Weekend Homesteader: A Twelve-Month Guide to Self Sufficiency by Anna Hess caught my attention. I was envisioning a book with information that would inspire me to become a self-sufficient gardener without feeling overwhelmed or pressured that I needed to go off the grid or never buy grocery produce again. I was not disappointed.

In her introduction, Anna Hess immediately connects with the novice homesteader. She understands that the dream of full-time homesteading can be daunting for most people. “Weekend Homesteader is full of short projects that you can use to dip your toes into the vast ocean of homesteading without becoming overwhelmed,” she writes. So, I began to read.

The book is divided by months beginning in the month of April or October if you live down under. Each month introduces you to topics that are important factors in growing a successful garden and maintaining a small homestead. Some homesteading basics covered that are more familiar to most of us include budgeting skills and record keeping (ugh!), healthy soil, garden rotation, and how to build a chicken coop. Anna Hess also touches upon less well-known details and tips such as how to find space to plant if you live in the city, how to stay warm without electricity for longer periods of time, and how to extend the gardening season by making your own garden hoops. Recipes, canning, cooking, and details of food/seed storing options are among some of the other multitude of topics.

Overall, I would give this book 4.5/5 stars.

Pros: It was well organized and gave many tips that only an experienced homesteader would know. It could help a novice homesteader avoid rookie mistakes. This book was published in 2012, but the topics and information are still very practical and relevant.

Cons: It covers the basics so an already experienced homesteader may not reap much benefit by reading it. Also, it is missing a chapter specific to urban gardening topics.

Back to Book List


Book Cover: The Well-Gardener Mind - Drawing of a head in which the outline of the face is a green stem and the head has branches coverd with green leavesThe Well-Gardened Mind: The Restorative Power of Nature

by Sue Stuart-Smith

Reviewed by Sharon Lunden, Goshen Master Gardener Volunteer

In The Well-Gardened Mind, Stuart-Smith, a British psychiatrist and psychotherapist, delves into the therapeutic aspects of immersing yourself in a garden. This is not a how-to garden book but instead outlines the well-researched benefits to the human body, mind, and soul to be found in the natural world around us.

Our brain cells are like branching trees, requiring pruning, weeding, and room to grow. Experience and pain can be “composted” into something beneficial. Gardens reflect our lives, periods of yield and beauty, loss and rest. Our minds as gardens seek light, cultivation, seeding, nourishment, watering, and replenishment. Souls and bodies begin to heal and thrive in the peace, safety, and beauty of the confines of a flower or vegetable garden. We need the earth as much as the earth needs us to care for and cherish it, a full circle. By learning to care for a garden, we better learn to care for ourselves and others.

This is a fascinating book which I recommend to you, as it can prove helpful and comforting in the midst of the stress of these difficult times.

If we put energy into cultivating the earth, we are given something back. There is magic in it and there is hard work in it, but the fruits and flowers of the earth are a form of goodness that is real; they are worth believing in and are not out of reach. When we sow a seed, we plant a narrative of future possibility. It is an action of hope. Not all the seeds we sow will germinate, but there is a sense of security that comes from knowing you have seeds in the ground. (pp. 65–66)

Back to Book List


Book Cover: A Year at Brandywine Cottage - Photos: Harvested beets, radishes, and peas / A lush garden with a white cottage in in the backgroundA Year at Brandywine Cottage

by David L. Culp

Reviewed by Madelene Knaggs, New Windsor Master Gardener Volunteer

A Year at Brandywine Cottage leads us on a journey through an exquisite garden that represents a lifetime of hard work, passion, successes and disappointments, experience and knowledge. Engaging prose and beautiful photography take the armchair gardener on a virtual tour through each season as the author informs us of the Latin genus and species and the botanical and historical facts about each plant.

Author and gardener David Culp states, “By looking closely at my garden over a period of time, and allowing it to speak to me, I find that the garden at Brandywine Cottage wants six seasons. As you will see, this book chronicles what happens in my garden over the course of those seasons.”

Culp demonstrates his deep knowledge of plants season by season with such tips and techniques for a successful layered garden as adding pots of tropicals (he has 400 pots) into the beds to boost a tired August garden, or clipping distracting dead leaves off hellebores before they bloom. He also weaves in family and local recipes using ingredients from his own beautiful vegetable garden.

Beginning in February (in the chapter “Early Spring”), he shows us the sleepy phase in the garden when most people are oblivious to any plant life. He proves that there is much to behold—the emerging bulbs of crocus, dwarf iris, glory-of-the-snow, winter aconite, witch hazels, and the author’s large collection of snowdrops. As the season progresses into March, daffodils and hellebores take center stage. He continues to show the progression and overlapping from season to season and from outdoors to inside the home.

This book will inspire readers with ideas for their own gardens, and will encourage plans in anticipation of the upcoming season.

Back to Book List


Book Cover: Your Wellbeing Garden - Drawing of garden bench with trees on both sides and a potted flower sitting on itYour Wellbeing Garden: How to Make Your Garden Good for You – Science, Design, Function

by D.K. Publishing

Review by Patricia Henighan, Walden Master Gardener Volunteer

If you have been gardening for a while, you probably don’t need to be convinced that your garden is good for you. Nevertheless, this delightfully designed and easy to digest book uses scientific research drawn together by a team of scientists from the Royal Horticultural Society to present the whys and hows of creating an outdoor space that nourishes both the mind and the body, and is good for the planet. Each section encapsulates the latest research on topics such as how to fight air pollution, reduce noise pollution, help pollinators, address climate change, and provide fodder for your brain.

The authors use diagrams and illustrations to explain concepts such as how different types of leaves trap air pollutants and why vegetation is a better at reducing noise pollution than a fence or a wall. They explore topics such as Ogren Plant Allergy Scale (OPALS) which rates plants from 1 to 10 for allergenicity using eye-catching illustrations that show why certain flower and tree species are better choices if you are looking to avoid flying pollen.

Many people spend time outside to find peace and tranquility in a chaotic world. Research has found that when seeking “natural restoration”, we respond best to natural features that are moderately complex – not too smooth and not too busy. A grassy area with openings and some trees provides the highest rewards for inducing tranquility. Fractals or repeating branching patterns, which occur frequently in nature, can be added to a garden to ensure the landscape provides release for the brain from stress and anxiety. The authors encourage you to design a mindfulness corner with a comfortable seat in an area cushioned from street noise with a soothing sound of water or bees buzzing. Who said gardens must be all work?

Gardening can be a solitary pursuit or a communal activity. It can benefit people from all walks of life. Children and adults with special needs can benefit from the experience of growing flowers and food crops. Horticultural therapy is a way in which gardening is used to help people suffering from trauma and illness. For immigrants, growing crops from their home country can help to allay homesickness. And when it comes to children and gardening, psychologists have found that children can cultivate character by taking care of their own individual garden plots. It is also thought that by handling dirt at an early age, children increase their exposure to beneficial microbes, which may boost the immune system.

Since climate change is an ongoing challenge for everyone, the last section covers many aspects of creating a sustainable garden. There are suggestions on how to change barren, water-gobbling lawns into more resilient spaces and the latest recommendations on how to care for your soil, avoid impermeable surfaces, capture run-off, and design rain gardens. Obviously, it is a win-win situation as making your garden better for you will also make it better for the environment.

Back to Book List

Clean Your Garden with Insects in Mind

by Mary Carol Presutti, New Windsor Master Gardener Volunteer

Between now and mum season there are a few things you can do to get a head start for spring cleanup with minimum fuss.


Weed

A pair of gloved hands holding some freshly picked weedsThis is a perfect time to get a start on weed management for the spring.  Shorter days and colder weather in the months ahead will reduce the activity of plant growth.  You want to keep the process as natural as possible.  Pull weeds to your hearts content without overly disturbing the soil.  Don’t use hoes or rakes, and don’t turn the soil over unless you must.  When you disturb the soil too much seeds resting on top of soil get planted in the loose soil, and seeds deep in the soil are brought closer to the surface where they will be able to sprout.  Every time you move soil around without a purpose, the roots and seeds of unwanted plants are given the go ahead to sprout away.

Organic Weed Management – Cornell University


Mulch

Freshly mulched garden bed in front of a houseBare soil is an invitation for weeds to… well, put down roots!  Cover weeds that you want gone by the spring with a layer of weighted cardboard. Sometimes I think I shop online more for the cardboard shipping boxes then for what’s inside.  I also love using sheets of bark from my fireplace wood in and around my garden plants.  Tree bark adds nutrients, cuts down on weed growth, and is a good insulator for tender plants.  Grass clippings or shredded leaves make a nice winter mulch, but cut up leaves soon after they fall to the ground before insects and small animals take shelter.  Rake only the leaves you need to, leaving a goodly amount for insects to find winter cover.

Organic Garden Mulches to Conserve Moisture and Prevent Weeds – South Dakota State University Extension

Leave the Leaves – Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation


Seed

A group of blazing star blooms - cyclindrical spikes covered with tiny purple flowers
Blazing star

There are so many plants that seed themselves if you leave them be, although you must be patient as they will need a year or two to establish themselves from seed.  Here are a few of my favorites

Self-Seeding Perennials – University of Minnesota Extension

Which flowers are self-sowing? – University of New Hampshire Extension


Collect Seeds

Three milkweed seed pods that have been spilt open. One is empty and the other two contain lots of small, brown, oval-shaped seed attached to a silky strands that will help disperse the wind disperse them.
Milkweed seed pods

I love collecting seeds and seed heads as they mature throughout the year.  I either give them to friends or propagate them in other areas of my own garden.  Make sure you collect seeds from plants that produce viable seeds.  Some cultivars are bred to be sterile, and hybrids may produce seed, but the offspring will not necessarily resemble the parent plant.  It is best to stick with uncultivated species and their varieties.  Seeds and seed pods vary greatly.  Milkweed produces seed pods which open to disperse seeds, while catmint, verbena, and blazing star produce seed heads after the plants flower.   Research gathering techniques, proper storage, and how to plant different kinds of seeds in your garden.

Saving Seeds from Annuals and Perennials – The National Gardening Association

How to Collect and Store Seeds – Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center


Disease Management

Black, yellow, and white stripped monarch caterpillar feeding on milkweed.
Monarch caterpillar

If you grow native milkweeds, consider cutting back the plants this month to discourage next year’s growth from harboring any diseases that may have been left by this year’s monarchs. The most prevalent is Ophryocystis elektroscirrha, a parasitic protozoan that affects caterpillars.  An infected monarch butterfly can host thousands of these parasites on their wings.  Dispose of the cuttings with your regular trash instead of composting.

A wild begamont plant with leaves covered witha white substance.
Powdery mildew on wild bergamont

The stems and leaves of diseased plants should also be cut and disposed of in the trash as well.  A good example is wild bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), which is very susceptible to powdery mildew.  If left alone the mildew will overwinter on the old stems and may transfer to new growth in springtime.

Powdery Mildew of Ornamentals –  Cornell Cooperative Extension Nassau County


Create Habitat for Pollinators

Milweed stems that have been cut back so the hollow stem can be used for by cavity nesting bees
Cut back milkweed stems

One way to help local native bee populations is to encourage nesting in your garden.  Cut back some of the hollow-stemmed plants like Joe-Pye weed (Eutrochium spp.) and milkweed leaving them about a foot tall as to create a space for cavity nesting bees to nest.  For the ground nesting bees, avoid heavy wood mulches which are impossible for these small insects to burrow into.

Pollinator Nesting Resources – Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation

Wild Bees of New York – Cornell University


Gardener’s Checklist

October 2021

Garden Maintenance

  • Text: Leaves are not litter. They're food and shelter for butterflies, beetles, bees, moths, and more. Tell friends and neighbors to just #LEAVETHELEAVESProtect overwintering butterflies, beetles, bees, moths and more beneficial insects by leaving the leaves!
  • Make more plants!

Webinar: Make More Plants! Fall Propagation of Native Perennials – CCE Tompkins County

  • Dig up tender bulbs and tubers (i.e. cannas, dahlias, elephant ears, caladiums, etc.) and store them for the winter in a cool dry place.

Storing Tender “Bulbs” for Winter – University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension

  • A pile of tulip bulbs
    Tulip bulbs

    Plant spring-flowering bulbs.

VIDEO: Planting spring bulbs is easy! – University of Minnesota Extension

Pest Watch

  • Cluster of several spotted lanterfly adults near an egg mass laid on the trunk of a tree
    Spotted lanternfly adults and eggs

    Learn more about the Spotted Lanternfly.

VIDEO: Spotted Lanternfly: A New Invasive Pest – NYS IPM

  • Help keep spotted lanternfly from spreading! This invasive insect can lay its eggs in any surface, so make sure you check your car and any items that have been outside when traveling, especially in areas of know infestation like NJ and PA.

Confirmed Spotted Lanternfly Locations – NYS IPM

Checklist for Residents – Pennsylvania Department of Agriculture

  • Info-graphic: Live in Tick County? Do a daily tick check!Report any sightings of Spotted Lanternfly in New York.

Spotted Lanternfly Public Report

  • Do a daily tick check whenever you spend any time outside!

VIDEO: Keeping Pests Out of Your Home this Fall -NYS IPM

Vegetable Gardening

  • Garden bed covered with row cover
    Row cover

    Remove and dispose any diseased plants.  Do NOT put them in you compost pile.

Webinar: Winterize your Veggie Garden – Cornell Cooperative Extension Tompkins County

  • Take some time to learn more about your soil and then get it ready for spring planting.

Webinar: Understanding and Preparing Your Garden Soil – CCE Tompkins County


Happy Gardening!

Wheel Bug - Large Insect with what looks like have of a gear on its back
The wheel bug (Arilus cristatus), a predatory bug that is commonly seen in the fall.

Gardener’s Checklist

August 2021

Garden Maintenance

  • Deadhead annuals and perennials regularly too encourage new blooms.
  • Consider adding some herbs to you perennial flower garden.

    Japanese Knotwwed in full bloom
    Invasive Japanese Knotweed

Webinar: Gardening with Herbs – Cornell Cooperative Extension Chemung County

Pest Watch

A silken fall webworm nest at the end of a branch full of caterpillars.
Fall Webworm Nest
  • Keep pests out of your home this fall!

Webinar: Keeping Pests Out of Your Home this Fall: From Stink Bugs to Mice – NYS IPM

  • Scout your lawn for grubs—before you treat!!

VIDEO: Using IPM to Assess Your Lawn for White Grubs – NYS IPM

  • Dump out any standing water from containers in your yard to prevent mosquito breeding.
A very holey head of cabbage a result of feeding by the imported cabbageworm
Imported cabbageworm damage on cabbage.

How to Manage Mosquitoes in the Landscape – New York State Integrated Pest Management

  • Scout often for pest in your vegetable garden.

What Kind of Insect is Destroying my Plants?– Gardening in Orange County New York Blog

Vegetable Gardening

  • Rejuvenate your soil by planting a fall cover crop such as barley or clover.
Light purple clover flower against a background of green leaves
Clover makes a great fall cover crop.

Webinar: Cover Crops for the Home Garden – Cornell Cooperative Extension Tompkins County

  • Continue to remove weeds, as they compete with your garden plants for water, sunlight, and space.
Bottom of basil eaf covered with downy mildew spores
Basil Downy Mildew
  • Preserve your bounty.

Webinars: Food Preservation – Cornell Cooperative Extension Tompkins County


Happy Gardening!

Black Swallowtail on Lupine ‘Tutti Fruitti’

Pest Watch: Basil Downy Mildew

This article appeared in the July 2021 Issue of Gardening in Orange County.

Basil downy mildew has been a persistent deadly disease of greenhouse and garden basil crops in the US for over 10 years. It is caused by the pathogen Peronospora belbaharii. This fungus-like oomycete can infect the plant during its whole lifecycle from seed to full maturity. Pesto lovers beware since sweet basil (Ocimum basilicum) is the most susceptible.

Signs and Symptoms
Slight yellowing of basil leaf
Chlorosis of a basil leaf

Usually the first symptom is a non-specific chlorosis or yellowing of the top portion of the lower leaves of the basil plant that then travels up the plant.  The discoloration is contained within the borders of the major veins of the leaf. The affected leaves will eventually wilt or curl, die and turn brown. A distinguishing feature of basil downy mildew is the fluffy purplish gray spores that grow on the undersides of the leaves. Unfortunately, infected plants and seeds may not show any signs or symptoms especially if in cool, dry conditions.

Transmission
Bottom of basil eaf covered with downy mildew spores
Downy mildew spores on the bottom of basil leaf

Peronospora belbaharii is primarily spread via wind-borne spores called sporangia.  Contaminated seeds, other basil plants, garden tools and gloves are other forms of transmission. The spores thrive in warm, humid and wet conditions but can still infect plants and reproduce in temperatures as low as 59° F.

Basil downy mildew does NOT overwinter here in New York.  It can NOT survive in the soil or on dead plant tissue (like many pathogens).  Each year spores are carried up  from the southern United States by the wind.

Management

Basil downy mildew is difficult to treat once the disease has been established.  High temperature steam treatments have shown promise in eradicating the pathogen on basil seeds. There has also been some success in developing disease resistant cultivars for less susceptible varieties of basil such as red leaf, lemon, and spicy basil, but developing disease resistant cultivars of sweet basil has proven more challenging. According to research at Cornell University evaluations the sweet basil cultivars  ‘Eleonora’,, ‘Prospera’ and ‘Pesto Besto’ may be some good options.

Since basil downy mildew is an oomyete and not a true fungus, fungicides have limited value and are not recommended for the home gardener. Because basil downy mildew does NOT overwinter in New York, removing crop debris at the end of the season and crop rotation are not helpful for management of basil downy mildew.

Monitoring and cultural practices have been most successful especially in the home garden and  greenhouse settings.  Monitoring all seedlings and plants for yellowing leaves and gray downy growth is imperative. Once you determine your plant is infected, immediately harvest the unaffected leaves for culinary purposes, and then remove the plant and dispose of it in the garbage.

Map of northeastern United States showing new confirmed cases (in past 14 days) of basil downy mildew in eastern Pennsylvania, eastern Massachusetts, and south eastern Rhode Island, and older confirmed cases (over 14 days ago) in Delaware, southern New Jersey, Long Island (NY), and western Massachusetts
Basil Downy Mildew Map (July 27, 2021)

The annual spread of basil downy mildew is monitored and confirmed cases are  tracked.  To have a better idea as to when your plants are likely to become infected, you can follow the spread of basil downy mildew on the ‘Basil – Ag Pest Monitor‘ website and sign-up for alerts.

Reducing leaf wetness can be helpful in preventing infection.  Always water basil plants  at the base either by hand or using a drip irrigation system. Plant basil in full sun and maximize your spacing between plants to provide good air movement.  These practices allow the leaves to dry quickly after rain or dew. If you are growing basil indoors or in a greenhouse, an effective way to increase air circulation and reduce leaf wetness is by directing a fan towards the plants.

If you accidentally eat a piece of basil with downy mildew, don’t worry. Pathogens that cause diseases  in plants are different than the pathogens that cause disease in humans.  It’s not poisonous to humans and should not cause you any symptoms.

Resources

Rosesette of basil leaves on wooden surface

Basil Downy Mildew Alerts – Basil: Ag Pest Monitor

Basil Downy Mildew Map – Basil: Ag Pest Monitor

How Gardeners Can Manage Downy Mildew in Basil – Cornell University

Managing Downy Mildew in Gardens and Commercial Plantings – Basil: Ag Pest Monitor

Patience is a Virtue in Planting Outdoors

by Joyce Tomaselli, Community Horticulture Educator, Cornell Cooperative Extension Dutchess County

A version of this article appeared in the Times Herald-Record in May of 2017.

Tray of cabbage seedlingsMany sources provide great advice on sowing seeds.  Key factors include sufficient light and temperature for growing the seeds.  But the question inevitably arises when to transplant them outdoors. Don’t rush.  Cold soil and air temperatures can stress plants.  Wait at least a week or two after the last frost.

The latest map from the National  Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) shows the last spring frost date for the Hudson Valley to be between New York, which indicates April 16th and May 15th. But of course these dates are only guides.  In 2020 we had a hard frost on May 15th that severely damaged many plants.  There is no guarantee that frost will not occur after the last date shown.  This map does not tell you the best time to plant tomatoes or other frost-sensitive crops. That date is usually several weeks after the last frost, after the soil has warmed and nighttime temperatures are reliably well above freezing.

  • Map of the showing soil temperature in the nOrtheastern US on May 10, 2021Nighttime temperatures should be consistently above 45°F, and the soil should be warm, about 70°F.  You can use black plastic mulch to warm soil and/or row covers, hot caps or other protection to keep plants warm early in the season. Remove covers whenever temperatures exceed 85°F.
  • Harden off plants before transplanting by reducing water and fertilizer, not by exposing to cold temperatures, which can stress them and stunt growth.
  • Remember that microclimates have a tremendous effect. Some valleys and low-lying areas can be plagued by late frosts on clear, cold nights when there is radiational cooling.  Large bodies of water (such as the Hudson) may moderate air temperatures at some sites, reducing the chances of frost.

Since plant development is temperature-dependent, rather than depending on specific calendar dates we can make decisions based on Growing Degree Days, a measure of accumulated heat or by observing phenological events of plants.

A branch of forsythia in full blloom - yellow flowersPhenology is a branch of science that studies the relationships such as the life cycles of plants and animals and environmental changes. Seasonal changes such as weather or temperature can be correlated with natural events such as bird migration, plant budding, flowering or fruiting and insect activities.  For example, in the Hudson Valley migrating hummingbirds usually arrive when forsythia bloom. Centuries ago, Native Americans began planting corn when oak leaves are the size of a Snowdrop (Galanthus nivalis).

University of Wisconsin Extension has provided some examples of phenological correlations:

  • Dandelion with a bright yellow flower growing in the crack between two paversPlant peas when forsythia blooms.
  • Plant potatoes when the first dandelion blooms.
  • Plant beets, carrots, cole crops, lettuce and spinach when lilac is in first leaf.
  • Plant corn when oak leaves are the size of a squirrel’s ear.
  • Light purple lilac bloomsPlant bean, cucumber, and squash seeds when lilac is in full bloom.
  • Plant tomatoes when lily-of-the-valley plants are in full bloom.
  • Transplant eggplant, melons, and peppers when irises bloom.

So watch the calendar, but also watch for other clues from nature when you’re making decisions about planting and transplanting outdoors.

Gardener’s Check List

May 2021

Garden Maintenance

  • Remove dead leaves from flower and vegetable beds.

When can I clean up my garden…and still protect beneficial insects? – Biocontrol Bytes, NYSIPM

  • Divide perennials so they have more space to grow.  Give extras to family and friends.
  • Light purple lilac blooms
    Lilacs

    Remove flowerheads after lilac bloom.

  • Plant a cutting garden to create beautiful flower arrangements all summer long.

WORKSHOP: Growing and Selecting Flowers for Floral Arrangements –  Cornell Cooperative Extension Orange County

  • Remove emerging weeds before they take over your garden.
  • A short wooden tub set next to a tree overflowing with plants: a tall grass with red leaves, a bright green plant with white viens and a dark pruple plant spilling over the edge.Consider using container gardening to beautify your home, create a privacy screen and/or grow vegetables and herbs.

WORKSHOP: Creating Beautiful Container Gardens – Cornell Cooperative Extension Orange County

Pest Watch

Get your ticks tested for free! – Upstate Medical University

  • Watch out for snails and slugs in the garden.

Spotted Lanternfly Look-alikes – Virginia Cooperative Extension

  • Scout your stone fruit trees(i.e. cherry, peach, plum, etc.) for black knot.

Vegetable Gardening

  • Install supports for climbing vegetables such as peas and beans before planting seeds
  • Seed or transplant hardy vegetables such as kale, beets, peas, radishes, chard and carrots.

Vegetable Planing Guide – Cornell Cooperative Extension

  • Transplant warm weather vegetables and tender annuals after the last frost.

Patience is a Virtue in Planting Outdoors – Times Herald-Record


Play out in the rain!

A small child in yellow rain boots jumping in a puddle

Crop Rotation

by Joan Kean, Pine Bush Master Gardener Volunteer

This article appeared in the April 2021 Issue of Gardening in Orange County.

Backyard vegetable garden with raised bedsCrop rotation is the planned, successive cultivation of different crops in a specified order on the same land over time.   Regardless of whether you have acres of farmland, grow vegetables in containers, or anything in between, crop rotation is an important concept to integrate into your growing strategies.  It is a system of cycling a parcel of land through various crops in order to reduce the reliance on chemical fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides.  It is vitally important to optimal soil health and can increase yields.

The history of crop rotation dates back thousands of years.  The ancient Romans spread their farming practices throughout the Roman Empire.  European farmers followed a Roman cropping system called “food, feed, and fallow.”  Farmers divided their land into three sections.  Each year they planted a food grain such as wheat on one section, feed for livestock such as barley or oats on second section and let the third section lie fallow.  By following this schedule on a rotating basis, when each section lay fallow it recovered some of its nutrients and organic matter.

Today’s crop rotation systems are science based and range from simple to complex.  The succession of crops to be grown is carefully designed to ensure soil nutrients are sustained, pest populations are controlled, weeds are suppressed, and soil health is built.  Each crop uses different types and amounts of minerals from the soil.  If the same crop is planted each year, over time the soil is depleted of the minerals essential for plant growth and health.  In reverse, a different crop will sometimes return missing minerals to the soil as the plant dies and composts or is turned into the soil.

Benefits of Crop Rotation

      • Enhanced soil structure: Rotation preserves and improves soil structure.  Grow crops with different root structures that grow to various depths.  By rotating, the soil is not submitted to just shallow depth crops, but deep-rooted plants that will slowly deepen the topsoil, enhance water absorption and minimize runoff.

       

      • Reduced fertilizer needs: Nitrogen-fixing legumes in crop rotations or used as cover crops fix atmospheric nitrogen into the soil through root nodules.  This nitrogen is then available for subsequent crops.  Deep-rooted cover crops can draw up nutrients such as potassium and phosphorus from deep in the soil profile, making these nutrients available for subsequent shallow rooted crops.  These and other strategies reduce the need for fertilizer and can reduce the production of greenhouse gases.

       

      • Reduced pesticide needs:  Insects can over winter in your soil.  They enter the leaves and vines of your plants ready to reawaken in the spring to find their favorite meal.  When you utilize crop rotation, these insects are faced with a plant they don’t feed on.

       

      • Disease prevention:  Crops that are from the same family tend to have similar disease and insect problems.  Just like insects, plant diseases can over winter in plant leaves, roots and vines under your soil.  Rotating crops helps to guard against these diseases returning the following year.

       

      • Weed control: Including cover crops into crop rotation systems provides greater competitions to the weeds for their basic needs such as nutrients, space and light.  Cover crops ultimately crowd out the weeds, slowing down weed growth and proliferation for a reduced weed population in subsequent crops.

       

      • Erosion control: Improved soil structure and reduced exposure to water and wind.  Cover crops are effective in reducing raindrop impact, reducing sediment detachment and transport, slowing surface runoff, and so reducing soil loss.

       

      • Improved soil biodiversity: Crop rotation changes crop residues and rooting patterns.  Different crops benefit different species, and so a range of crops will lead to a more diverse and healthy soil microbial community.

       

    • What is Soil Health - Link to Interactive Graphic

How to Rotate Crops

Crop rotation plans range from simple to complex. Ideally crops should be rotated on a three or four year cycle in a planned sequence. Many rotation schemes involve keeping plants of the same family together throughout the rotation. Plant your solanaceous crops (i.e. tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, eggplant) in one area, cucurbits (i.e. cucumbers, melon, squash) in another, and brassicas (i.e. cabbage, broccoli, etc.) in another. The following year you keep the groups the same, but move their location in the garden.

As you explore crop rotation there are lots of tricks to learn. You can add cover crops to your rotation, which are grown between crops and can be used to protect soil, break-up hard pan, increase organic matter, add nitrogen and/or improve soil aggregation. Consider planting nitrogen-fixing legumes (i.e. peas, beans) before heavy feeding crops (i.e. corn). Potatoes yield best after corn, brassicas do well following onions. Some preceding crops (i.e. peas, oats, barley) increase the incidence of scab on potatoes. Beans are not greatly influenced by the preceding crop. Start by keeping a list or diagram of plant locations in this year’s garden and use it to help you plan how to incorporate crop rotation into your vegetable gardening strategy.

Resources

History & Principles of Crop Rotation – Allotment Garden

Learn more about the importance of crop rotation and see examples of three, four and five year crop rotation plans specifically developed for gardeners.

Cover Crops for Home Gardeners – Oregon State University

Crop Rotation on Organic Farms – Sustainable Agriculture
Research and Education – USDA

Although written for farmers, this manual has a plethora of information relevant to gardeners including sample crop rotation sequences.

What is Soil Health? – Sustainable Agriculture
Research and Education – USDA

An interactive exploration of soil health and how to improve it.

Questions about Soil Amendments

By Gerda Krogslund, Middletown Senior Master Gardener Volunteer

This article appeared in the April 2021 Issue of Gardening in Orange County.

Cartoon - A man pushing a fertilizer spreade full of Ps and Ks across a lawn near a tree. There Ps and Ks in the soil below the grass near the tree roots. It is spring and everyone wants to go outside and apply fertilizer to their plants, because that’s what you do in the spring.  However, overfertilizering your plants is not only a waste of time and money, but it can also damage your plants and harm the environment.  If you already incorporated lots of compost and other organic material into your soil every year, your soil is probably doing well.  So before you add fertilizer or any other soil amendments to your garden, I encourage you to get a soil test.

Once you’ve gotten your soil tested, confirmed that you need fertilizer, and are ready to add some fertilizer, there are many things to consider, so lets take a look at a few of them.

What is a soil amendment?

Soil amendments are substances added to the soil to improve plant growth.  Fertilizers the most common type of soil amendment and their main purpose is to supply nutrients to plants.  Soil conditioners are soil amendments that are mixed into the topsoil to improve soil structure.  Improving the structure of your soil will allow water and air movement in the soil and help with plant root growth.  Compost is considered a soil conditioner as it improves the soil structure with the added benefits of slowly releasing nutrients to the plants and increasing bacterial and fungal activity.  Other soil amendments include biostimulants and pH adjusters.

Back to the Top


What do the numbers mean on a bag of fertilizer?

Fertilizers contain the primary macronutrients needed by plants: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) .  The three numbers on a bag of fertilizer represent the percentage (by weight) of NPK found in that bag.  For example, the numbers on a 50-lb. bag of 10-6-4 fertilizer contains 10% N (5 lbs.), 6% P (3 lbs.), and 4% K (2 lbs.) The remaining 80% (40 lbs.) of the mixture is made up of secondary nutrients like calcium, magnesium and sulfur, trace elements, and fillers that make it easier to spread.

Each macronutrient is essential to healthy plant growth.  Nitrogen (N) is used for to promote foliar growth.  Phosphorus (P) supports the plant’s roots and reproductive system including flower and fruit development.  Potassium (K) is important in root development and for overall plant health, including disease and stress resistance.

Knowing what each number represents can help you decide which fertilizer is best for your specific situation.  If you are looking for a fertilizer to enhance flower production for your annual and perennial flowers, you would choose a fertilizer with more phosphorous like a 5-10-5.  If you are looking to encourage foliar growth for leafy green vegetables, evergreens, or shrubs, you would look for a fertilizer with more nitrogen or a higher first number such as 10-6-4.  Understanding the number will help you avoid applying the wrong kind of fertilizer. If you add too much nitrogen to a tomato plant, you might have a lush green leafy plant with very few flowers.  The same holds true for root crops such as carrots; too much nitrogen will produce beautiful leaves, but smaller roots.

Corn plant with yellow leaf margins caused by fertlizer burn
Fertilizer burn

Remember chemical fertilizers contain salts.  Apply too much, and the plant cells will begin to dehydrate and collapse.  Too much fertilizer will burn plant leaves and roots, and sometimes even kill the plant.  This is called fertilizer burn.  If you suspect fertilizer burn, use plenty of water to flush out excess fertilizer and prune out any burned leaves.

Back to the Top


Should I use solid or liquid fertilizer?

Whether you use solid or liquid fertilizer, you should always water your plants before application.  This will help the roots absorb nutrients better and mitigate the risk of root burn.

A gloved hand holding a small three pronged hand rake to incorporate granular fertilizer into the soilA common type of solid fertilizer is granular fertilizer.  Granular fertilizers can be broadcast by hand and then scratched into the top 4-6 inches of soil.  For large areas like lawns, a mechanical spreader can be used.  Moisture is needed to break down solid fertilizers and make nutrients available to plants.  After application, carefully wash any fertilizer granules off of the foliage of your plants and water to release the nutrients.

Many solid fertilizers are quick release meaning that the nutrients are available immediately after application.  There are also slow-release fertilizers that come in capsule forms and dissolve as they get wet.  Since the capsules are made to break down at different rates, a single application can last over several months.

Water soluble fertilizers are sold as liquids or powders which you dissolve in watering before applying.  These are great for fast-growing plants because the fertilizer is applied directly to the leaves and plants take up nutrients more efficiently through the leaves than through roots.  Nutrients are absorbed quickly and rarely burn the plants.  For large areas you can use hose-end sprayer fertilizers which come in containers that connect to the end of your hose and can be easily sprayed over your plants.  A drawback to liquid fertilizers is that they must be applied more frequently as they can move quickly through the soil especially if it rains after an application.

Back to the Top


Should I use organic or inorganic fertilizer?

Organic fertilizers are derived from plant and animal sources or a mined mineral such as rock phosphate.  Liquid organic fertilizers include compost tea, fish emulsion, and seaweed.  Dry organic fertilizers include manure, blood meal, bone meal, and cottonseed meal.  Organic fertilizers usually contain low concentration of nutrients that are slowly released into the environment as they are broken down by soil microbes.  Because of this, they are much less likely to cause fertilizer burn, and do not harm beneficial microbes in the soil.

Inorganic fertilizers or synthetic fertilizers are usually less expensive than organic ones and give quick results.  However there are draw backs.  They can cause fertilizer burn and if application rate or timing is off, there is a high chance of fertilizer runoff which can have detrimental effects on the environment.  Many synthetic fertilizers also contain high concentrations of salts, which can cause fertilizer burn and can harm soil microbes.

Back to the Top


How and when should I apply fertilizer?

Home gardeners have a tendency to overfertilize, that is why soil tests are so important.   Remember if your beds are rich in organic material you may not need any fertilizer, that holds true for annuals, herbaceous perennials, and vegetables.  New gardens low in organic matter may need to be fertilized in early spring, usually a 5-10-10 will suffice, but make sure to test your soil to see what your soil needs.

Herbs are a special case. Many herbs such as basil, thyme, rosemary, oregano, and lavender, grow best on sunny dry sites in sandy soil.  Heavy applications of fertilizers or organic matter may lower the plant’s essential oil content and encourage root and stem rot diseases.

Healthy mature trees usually do not need fertilizer as they benefit from turf fertilization as well as the decomposition of grass clippings and fallen leaves.  Shrubs that are surrounded by turf usually do not require additional fertilizer either.  For those shrubs whose growth is slow, top-dress their beds with compost or apply a balanced fertilizer like 5-10-5 in early spring or in late fall.   Don’t fertilize your perennials, trees and shrubs in late summer or early fall or you may encourage a flush of new growth that will not have time to harden off before the winter.

Back to the Top


What about my lawn?

When it comes to lawns, the best time to apply fertilizer is in September.  If you have a high use lawn it may need  a second fertilizer application in May.  Returning grass clipping to your lawn can reduce the need for nitrogen fertilizer by 25 – 50 %.  Note that New York State Runoff Law restricts the use of fertilizer containing phosphorous unless you are establishing a new lawn or have the results of a soil test that indicate your lawn does not have enough phosphorous. Check out Cornell’s turf website for more information about how and when to feed your lawn. A hnad push lawn mower throwing grass clippings into the air

Back to the Top


What about soil pH?

Chart showing nutrient avaiablilty at from pH 4 through 10
Effect of pH on nutrient availability

Soil pH is a measure of the hydrogen ion activity in the soil.  The scale of measuring acidity or alkalinity contains 14 divisions known as pH units.  The pH value of 7 is neutral with values below 7 are acidic and values above 7 are basic or alkaline.  With some exceptions most plants do best when the soil pH is in the 6.0 – 7.0 range.  pH affects the availability of nutrients in the soil.  As a result, plants in soil with very high or very low soil pH will show symptoms of nutrient deficiency.

Of course some plants prefer acidic or alkaline soil.  Azaleas like an acidic soil and may develop yellow leaves if the pH is over 7.0.  Blueberries do best in an acidic soil in the 4.5 – 5 range.

You can change the pH of the soil, but it is usually a slow process and may require repeat treatments.   Adding lime to the soil will increase the pH and adding ammonium sulfate, iron sulfate or elemental sulfur will lower the pH.  Liming is best done in the fall to allow time for it to change the pH.  Instead of trying to change the pH of your soil, it is easier to choose plants that are adapted to the existing conditions.  This is the principle of selecting the right plant for the right site.  Changes to pH are short term and annual pH tests are recommended to determine what needs to be done to maintain desired soil pH.

Back to the Top


A trowel stuck in a raised garden bedRemember that the best way to improve plant growth is the regular incorporation of organic matter or compost in the soil for good soil structure.  If you do decide to buy soil amendments, always read the label, apply the recommended amounts and use proper personal protective equipment like gloves and masks.  Happy gardening!


Resources

Correcting Soil pH – Cornell Cooperative Extension

Fertilizer Basics – University of Maryland Extension

Fertilizing your Lawn – Cornell Turfgrass

Fertilizing Trees and Shrubs – University of Maryland Extension

Lawn Fertilizer –  NYS Nutrient Runoff Law  – NYS Department of Environmental Conservation

Organic Matter and Soil Amendments – University of Maryland Extension

Soil Testing for Home Gardeners – Cornell Cooperative Extension