Tag Archives: soil

The Soil Will Save Us

by Joe Gregoire, Warwick Senior Master Gardener Volunteer

Global atmospheric carbon dioxide concentrations (CO2) in parts per million (ppm) for the past 800,000 years. The peaks and valleys track ice ages (low CO2) and warmer interglacials (higher CO2). During these cycles, CO2 was never higher than 300 ppm. On the geologic time scale, the increase (orange dashed line) looks virtually instantaneous. For decades, we’ve been involved in a global debate about the warming of the planet and the resulting climate change that impacts us all.  From heat waves that fuel drought and wildfires to extreme cold that shortens growing seasons and puts food production at risk across the planet, the increasing unpredictability of climate has an impact on the lives of billions of people each year, making the debate over the causes of climate change less and less relevant.  It is like debating over the cause of a house fire, while the house is burning all around us.  While opinions continue to be polarized on the topic of human or natural causes of climate change, the science behind what is increasing the temperature of the planet is clear.  The increase in parts per million of carbon dioxide is linked to the continuing trend in rising global temperatures.

A vegetable garden with a combination of cabbage surrounded by small yellow and orange flowers and dark purple leafy greensAs an avid gardener, managing the variability of the weather is a constant part of the experience when growing food and I regularly reflect on the global phenomenon and what I can do to protect my crops from the risks that nature can bring.  Floating row covers protect my plants from frost damage in spring and fall.  A three inch layer of compost mulch over my garden beds retains moisture in the soil and captures rainfall like a sponge, helping my plants persist through dry spells.  And shading my garden soil with a canopy of growing plants, provides my plants with a microclimate of cooler soil temperatures during the hottest days of summer.  I’ve come to appreciate that there are actions I can take in my own garden that can increase my plant health and the resulting yield from my crops at harvest time.  I’ve come to believe that we can take action to develop solutions that work with nature as the best path to follow in my gardening pursuits.

Book Cover: The Soil will Save Us: How Scientists, Farmers, and Foodies are Healing the Soil to Save the Planet by Kristin Ohlson / Image f a maple tree sapling howing the roots grwoing beneath the soilIn her book, The Soil Will Save Us – How Scientists, Farmers, and Foodies are Healing the Soil to Save the Planet, author Kristin Ohlson delivers a powerful message on the subject of climate change.  Looking past the debate over whether humanity is the cause of global warming or not, Ohlson dives deep into the science of soil health and its connection to the carbon cycle at a macro level.  Through her travels around the world researching the topic, Ohlson finds numerous best practices in soil science, farming and ranching practices, and the food community that drives the demand for sustainable agriculture.  She successfully builds the case for humanity as a solution to climate change, working with nature to reduce carbon from the atmosphere.

Diagram of the Soil Food WebAt the root of the solution to global warming, is the soil beneath our feet.  And the healthier the soil, the better.  Healthy soil is more than just its composition and the nutrients it contains.  Healthy soil is healthy because of the life within in it, in the form of microscopic bacteria, fungi, and insects which comprise the soil food web.  A virtuous cycle of carbon capture from the atmosphere into the soil, the soil food web and our understanding of it is emerging as a keystone solution to reducing CO2 levels in the atmosphere.

New research sheds light on the fascinating communication process that exists between growing plants and the microbial life in the soil with plants “signaling” their need for various nutrients by attracting microbial life to their root zone using exuded sugars created through photosynthesis.  While we’ve known that photosynthesis enables plants to produce their own food by transforming sunlight and atmospheric CO2 into carbon sugars that feed growth and release oxygen back into the atmosphere, new research is showing that these carbon sugars are used by plants to grow the soil life surrounding their roots at the same time, by exuding sugars into the soil through their roots.  These sugars in the soil attract beneficial soil bacteria and fungi that consume the sugars and grow in number as a result.  Nematodes and other microbial life then feed on the growing bacteria and fungi populations and release plant soluble nutrients through their waste into the plant root zone, like microscopic herds of cattle dropping their manure for the benefit of the plants in a pasture.  And the extensive microscopic network of mycelium that are the living fungi in the soil, trade those same root exudate sugars with moisture and minerals they extract from far beyond the reach of plant roots.  All of this exudate sugar, carbon that was once atmospheric CO2, remains in soil that is undisturbed and kept covered by mulch or growing plants and protected from the oxidation that would combine it with oxygen and release it back into the atmosphere as CO2.

What is Soil Health - Link to Interactive GraphicWith this growing understanding of soil life and the benefit of carbon capture that is inherent in the natural process of the soil food web, Ohlson uncovers a growing movement of collaboration between environmentalists and agriculturalists that, not long ago, was an adversarial relationship.  Traditional environmentalist attitudes called for humanity to leave nature alone is evolving into a movement that sees the potential for humanity to work with nature in a beneficial way.  And traditional agriculturalist attitudes that look at nature as something that needs to be tamed and controlled through tilling, chemical fertility and pest elimination and monocropping for production efficiency, is evolving into a movement that sees natural processes as a solution to sustainable food production and increased yields.  And as these two once opposing movements evolve, they are coming together in collaborative efforts to protect nature through the use of agriculture that can have rapid benefits to thousands and thousands of acres of cropland around the world.

A row of corn plants growing between rows of bean plants
Field corn – dry beans intercropping system

Intensive grazing of livestock using electric fencing to corral livestock into a tight herd and practicing rotational grazing through managing the movement of these herds over a pastureland, replicates the natural behavior of herding livestock that evolved to graze in tight herds as protection from predators that no longer pose a natural threat.  This intensive grazing behavior is what created the deep soils that covered the Great Plains prior to European settlement and that were blown away with the ravages of the dust bowl.  And a movement away from vast acres of monocrop corn and soil bean production toward no-till multispecies crop production and cover cropping, accelerates the introduction of carbon sugars into the soil food web.  For an increasing number of practicing growers, this is increasing their yields, lowering their costs, and restoring the moisture retention, erosion protection, and soil health of their land.  All the while, acting as a viable solution to reducing CO2 levels within the atmosphere.

If you find this subject interesting and would like to learn more about how our daily food choices can play an active role in collaborating with nature as a solution to the global warming problem, then I highly recommend taking time during these last days of winter to read this book.

Questions about Soil Amendments

By Gerda Krogslund, Middletown Senior Master Gardener Volunteer

This article appeared in the April 2021 Issue of Gardening in Orange County.

Cartoon - A man pushing a fertilizer spreade full of Ps and Ks across a lawn near a tree. There Ps and Ks in the soil below the grass near the tree roots. It is spring and everyone wants to go outside and apply fertilizer to their plants, because that’s what you do in the spring.  However, overfertilizering your plants is not only a waste of time and money, but it can also damage your plants and harm the environment.  If you already incorporated lots of compost and other organic material into your soil every year, your soil is probably doing well.  So before you add fertilizer or any other soil amendments to your garden, I encourage you to get a soil test.

Once you’ve gotten your soil tested, confirmed that you need fertilizer, and are ready to add some fertilizer, there are many things to consider, so lets take a look at a few of them.

What is a soil amendment?

Soil amendments are substances added to the soil to improve plant growth.  Fertilizers the most common type of soil amendment and their main purpose is to supply nutrients to plants.  Soil conditioners are soil amendments that are mixed into the topsoil to improve soil structure.  Improving the structure of your soil will allow water and air movement in the soil and help with plant root growth.  Compost is considered a soil conditioner as it improves the soil structure with the added benefits of slowly releasing nutrients to the plants and increasing bacterial and fungal activity.  Other soil amendments include biostimulants and pH adjusters.

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What do the numbers mean on a bag of fertilizer?

Fertilizers contain the primary macronutrients needed by plants: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) .  The three numbers on a bag of fertilizer represent the percentage (by weight) of NPK found in that bag.  For example, the numbers on a 50-lb. bag of 10-6-4 fertilizer contains 10% N (5 lbs.), 6% P (3 lbs.), and 4% K (2 lbs.) The remaining 80% (40 lbs.) of the mixture is made up of secondary nutrients like calcium, magnesium and sulfur, trace elements, and fillers that make it easier to spread.

Each macronutrient is essential to healthy plant growth.  Nitrogen (N) is used for to promote foliar growth.  Phosphorus (P) supports the plant’s roots and reproductive system including flower and fruit development.  Potassium (K) is important in root development and for overall plant health, including disease and stress resistance.

Knowing what each number represents can help you decide which fertilizer is best for your specific situation.  If you are looking for a fertilizer to enhance flower production for your annual and perennial flowers, you would choose a fertilizer with more phosphorous like a 5-10-5.  If you are looking to encourage foliar growth for leafy green vegetables, evergreens, or shrubs, you would look for a fertilizer with more nitrogen or a higher first number such as 10-6-4.  Understanding the number will help you avoid applying the wrong kind of fertilizer. If you add too much nitrogen to a tomato plant, you might have a lush green leafy plant with very few flowers.  The same holds true for root crops such as carrots; too much nitrogen will produce beautiful leaves, but smaller roots.

Corn plant with yellow leaf margins caused by fertlizer burn
Fertilizer burn

Remember chemical fertilizers contain salts.  Apply too much, and the plant cells will begin to dehydrate and collapse.  Too much fertilizer will burn plant leaves and roots, and sometimes even kill the plant.  This is called fertilizer burn.  If you suspect fertilizer burn, use plenty of water to flush out excess fertilizer and prune out any burned leaves.

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Should I use solid or liquid fertilizer?

Whether you use solid or liquid fertilizer, you should always water your plants before application.  This will help the roots absorb nutrients better and mitigate the risk of root burn.

A gloved hand holding a small three pronged hand rake to incorporate granular fertilizer into the soilA common type of solid fertilizer is granular fertilizer.  Granular fertilizers can be broadcast by hand and then scratched into the top 4-6 inches of soil.  For large areas like lawns, a mechanical spreader can be used.  Moisture is needed to break down solid fertilizers and make nutrients available to plants.  After application, carefully wash any fertilizer granules off of the foliage of your plants and water to release the nutrients.

Many solid fertilizers are quick release meaning that the nutrients are available immediately after application.  There are also slow-release fertilizers that come in capsule forms and dissolve as they get wet.  Since the capsules are made to break down at different rates, a single application can last over several months.

Water soluble fertilizers are sold as liquids or powders which you dissolve in watering before applying.  These are great for fast-growing plants because the fertilizer is applied directly to the leaves and plants take up nutrients more efficiently through the leaves than through roots.  Nutrients are absorbed quickly and rarely burn the plants.  For large areas you can use hose-end sprayer fertilizers which come in containers that connect to the end of your hose and can be easily sprayed over your plants.  A drawback to liquid fertilizers is that they must be applied more frequently as they can move quickly through the soil especially if it rains after an application.

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Should I use organic or inorganic fertilizer?

Organic fertilizers are derived from plant and animal sources or a mined mineral such as rock phosphate.  Liquid organic fertilizers include compost tea, fish emulsion, and seaweed.  Dry organic fertilizers include manure, blood meal, bone meal, and cottonseed meal.  Organic fertilizers usually contain low concentration of nutrients that are slowly released into the environment as they are broken down by soil microbes.  Because of this, they are much less likely to cause fertilizer burn, and do not harm beneficial microbes in the soil.

Inorganic fertilizers or synthetic fertilizers are usually less expensive than organic ones and give quick results.  However there are draw backs.  They can cause fertilizer burn and if application rate or timing is off, there is a high chance of fertilizer runoff which can have detrimental effects on the environment.  Many synthetic fertilizers also contain high concentrations of salts, which can cause fertilizer burn and can harm soil microbes.

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How and when should I apply fertilizer?

Home gardeners have a tendency to overfertilize, that is why soil tests are so important.   Remember if your beds are rich in organic material you may not need any fertilizer, that holds true for annuals, herbaceous perennials, and vegetables.  New gardens low in organic matter may need to be fertilized in early spring, usually a 5-10-10 will suffice, but make sure to test your soil to see what your soil needs.

Herbs are a special case. Many herbs such as basil, thyme, rosemary, oregano, and lavender, grow best on sunny dry sites in sandy soil.  Heavy applications of fertilizers or organic matter may lower the plant’s essential oil content and encourage root and stem rot diseases.

Healthy mature trees usually do not need fertilizer as they benefit from turf fertilization as well as the decomposition of grass clippings and fallen leaves.  Shrubs that are surrounded by turf usually do not require additional fertilizer either.  For those shrubs whose growth is slow, top-dress their beds with compost or apply a balanced fertilizer like 5-10-5 in early spring or in late fall.   Don’t fertilize your perennials, trees and shrubs in late summer or early fall or you may encourage a flush of new growth that will not have time to harden off before the winter.

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What about my lawn?

When it comes to lawns, the best time to apply fertilizer is in September.  If you have a high use lawn it may need  a second fertilizer application in May.  Returning grass clipping to your lawn can reduce the need for nitrogen fertilizer by 25 – 50 %.  Note that New York State Runoff Law restricts the use of fertilizer containing phosphorous unless you are establishing a new lawn or have the results of a soil test that indicate your lawn does not have enough phosphorous. Check out Cornell’s turf website for more information about how and when to feed your lawn. A hnad push lawn mower throwing grass clippings into the air

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What about soil pH?

Chart showing nutrient avaiablilty at from pH 4 through 10
Effect of pH on nutrient availability

Soil pH is a measure of the hydrogen ion activity in the soil.  The scale of measuring acidity or alkalinity contains 14 divisions known as pH units.  The pH value of 7 is neutral with values below 7 are acidic and values above 7 are basic or alkaline.  With some exceptions most plants do best when the soil pH is in the 6.0 – 7.0 range.  pH affects the availability of nutrients in the soil.  As a result, plants in soil with very high or very low soil pH will show symptoms of nutrient deficiency.

Of course some plants prefer acidic or alkaline soil.  Azaleas like an acidic soil and may develop yellow leaves if the pH is over 7.0.  Blueberries do best in an acidic soil in the 4.5 – 5 range.

You can change the pH of the soil, but it is usually a slow process and may require repeat treatments.   Adding lime to the soil will increase the pH and adding ammonium sulfate, iron sulfate or elemental sulfur will lower the pH.  Liming is best done in the fall to allow time for it to change the pH.  Instead of trying to change the pH of your soil, it is easier to choose plants that are adapted to the existing conditions.  This is the principle of selecting the right plant for the right site.  Changes to pH are short term and annual pH tests are recommended to determine what needs to be done to maintain desired soil pH.

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A trowel stuck in a raised garden bedRemember that the best way to improve plant growth is the regular incorporation of organic matter or compost in the soil for good soil structure.  If you do decide to buy soil amendments, always read the label, apply the recommended amounts and use proper personal protective equipment like gloves and masks.  Happy gardening!


Resources

Correcting Soil pH – Cornell Cooperative Extension

Fertilizer Basics – University of Maryland Extension

Fertilizing your Lawn – Cornell Turfgrass

Fertilizing Trees and Shrubs – University of Maryland Extension

Lawn Fertilizer –  NYS Nutrient Runoff Law  – NYS Department of Environmental Conservation

Organic Matter and Soil Amendments – University of Maryland Extension

Soil Testing for Home Gardeners – Cornell Cooperative Extension