Tag Archives: invasive species

The Princess Tree: A Wolf in Sheep’s Clothing?

by Carole Liantonio, Warwick Senior Master Gardener Volunteer

Photo: A princess tree in full bloom. The tree towers over the other trees and is covered with light purple flowers.
Paulownia tomentosa

The princess or empress tree (Paulownia tomentosa) is a fast growing shade tree that was as introduced to North America from Asia via Europe in the 1800s. As it is a beautiful tree with many desirable characteristics, the princess tree is widely available commercially and frequently planted.

Let’s take a look at why people are planting it and why that is problematic.

The Good News:

Photo: A wide sidewalk path (~20 ft wide) lined with benches on both sides. Behind each row of benches is a row of towering princess trees. It looks like the photo was taken in early spring as the trees have no leaves on them, but it appears that they are covered in buds just about to open.
A walkway lined with princess trees

The princess tree is one of the fastest-growing trees in the Northeastern United States.  It can grow 10 to 20 feet in a single year, reaching 80 to 100 feet in a decade. This explosive growth is accomplished by pulling carbon dioxide out of the air more efficiently than any other woody plant in the world. Photosynthesizing beyond the call of duty could be a huge help in sequestering carbon and assisting in our struggles with climate change.

Photo. A field planted with rows of princess trees. The trees look to be about 1 foot in diameter.
A stand of planted princess trees

In addition to extra-efficient carbon sequestration, the wood from the princess tree has many uses. It is lightweight, like balsa, but has a very high strength-to-weight ratio. It can be carved, holds nails and screws without splitting, and doesn’t warp or change shape when dried. It has been used for surfboards and kayaks, chests, boxes, clogs, musical instruments, and touring skis, and it’s burned to make charcoal for sketching. The wood is highly prized and worth more per linear foot than black walnut, oak, or maple. It is not surprising that in Japan, where the tree is native, a princess tree was traditionally planted at the birth of a daughter to ultimately be used for her wedding dowry!

Photo: A close-up of a cluster of trumpet white and light purple flowers hanging from the end of a tree branch.
Princess tree flowers

The princess tree is also ascetically pleasing. In late spring, it is covered with large clusters of purple to white trumpet-shaped blooms.  These foxglove-like blossoms emit a honeysuckle-like fragrance. Then a few weeks after bloom the tree is covered with large heart-shaped leaves.

Does this sound too good to be true?

The Bad News:

Photo: A freshly disturbed area of soil with a few small weeds and a large princess tree seedling with its large heart shaped leaves.
Princess tree seedling in a disturbed area

Despite all of its favorable qualities, the princess tree also causes significant problems.  Each of the lovely flowers it produces contain thousands of tiny winged wind dispersed seeds.  When they land in disturbed areas with plenty of sun and good drainage, such as roadsides, old fields, forest edges, or disturbed riverbanks, they will germinate and thrive.  This propensity to establish in disturbed areas displaces native species and alters the ecological community.  Once established, the princess tree competes with native plants for nutrients and water. It also produces a dense shade making it difficult for native plants to grow underneath it.  And because the roots of the princess tree also grow at an incredible rate, they can burst apart foundations and walls.

Fifteen states, including Pennsylvania and Connecticut, have listed the princess tree as  invasive and/or have laws regulating its sale.   Although not regulated as an invasive species in New York State, the princess tree has a NY Invasive rank of “moderate” meaning that care needs to be taken to remove it from natural areas, and that it should not be used in parks and preserves with significant environmental value.  In our area, the Lower Hudson Partnership for Regional Invasive Species Management (LHPRISM) considers the princess tree as “established”.

Photo: The side of a rocky hill with irregular outcroppings covered with princess tree saplings. This photo was taken at a time of year when the trees are bare.
An infestation of princess trees on a rocky slope

Once a princess tree establishes itself, it is very hard to control. It is a resilient tree that reproduces asexually through root suckers that are capable of growing up to 15 feet in a single year.  When trying to remove a princess tree, if any root fragment is left in the ground, the tree will re-establish itself very quickly. For this reason, mowing small seedlings is not a viable method for removal. Unless the stump is chemically treated, re-sprouting can also occur when large trees are cut down.

A Compromise?

Tree farmers and specialty nurseries are currently exploring princess tree hybrids, which have many of the attributes of Paulownia tomentosa but have not yet been found to be as invasive. They include Paulownia shantong (P. tomentosa × P. fortunei) and Paulownia elongata. With any luck, these hybrid species will beautify the spring landscape without breaking the pavement or becoming a royal pain in the neck!

Identifying the Princess Tree in the Field

Learn More

Paulownia tomentosa – Lower Hudson PRISM

Paulownia tomentosa – North Carolina State Extension

Princess Tree – National Invasive Species Information Center, USDA

The Fastest Growing Trees in the Northeast – Shelterwood Forest Farm

Note: The article ‘The Fastest Growing Trees in the Northeast’ incorrectly states that Paulownia trees such as the princess tree use C4 carbon fixation. Learn more about this common misconception.

Gardener’s Checklist

October 2021

Garden Maintenance

  • Text: Leaves are not litter. They're food and shelter for butterflies, beetles, bees, moths, and more. Tell friends and neighbors to just #LEAVETHELEAVESProtect overwintering butterflies, beetles, bees, moths and more beneficial insects by leaving the leaves!
  • Make more plants!

Webinar: Make More Plants! Fall Propagation of Native Perennials – CCE Tompkins County

  • Dig up tender bulbs and tubers (i.e. cannas, dahlias, elephant ears, caladiums, etc.) and store them for the winter in a cool dry place.

Storing Tender “Bulbs” for Winter – University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension

  • A pile of tulip bulbs
    Tulip bulbs

    Plant spring-flowering bulbs.

VIDEO: Planting spring bulbs is easy! – University of Minnesota Extension

Pest Watch

  • Cluster of several spotted lanterfly adults near an egg mass laid on the trunk of a tree
    Spotted lanternfly adults and eggs

    Learn more about the Spotted Lanternfly.

VIDEO: Spotted Lanternfly: A New Invasive Pest – NYS IPM

  • Help keep spotted lanternfly from spreading! This invasive insect can lay its eggs in any surface, so make sure you check your car and any items that have been outside when traveling, especially in areas of know infestation like NJ and PA.

Confirmed Spotted Lanternfly Locations – NYS IPM

Checklist for Residents – Pennsylvania Department of Agriculture

  • Info-graphic: Live in Tick County? Do a daily tick check!Report any sightings of Spotted Lanternfly in New York.

Spotted Lanternfly Public Report

  • Do a daily tick check whenever you spend any time outside!

VIDEO: Keeping Pests Out of Your Home this Fall -NYS IPM

Vegetable Gardening

  • Garden bed covered with row cover
    Row cover

    Remove and dispose any diseased plants.  Do NOT put them in you compost pile.

Webinar: Winterize your Veggie Garden – Cornell Cooperative Extension Tompkins County

  • Take some time to learn more about your soil and then get it ready for spring planting.

Webinar: Understanding and Preparing Your Garden Soil – CCE Tompkins County


Happy Gardening!

Wheel Bug - Large Insect with what looks like have of a gear on its back
The wheel bug (Arilus cristatus), a predatory bug that is commonly seen in the fall.

Strategies for Removing Invasive Species

By Linda Gayton, Highland Mills Master Gardener Volunteer

This article appeared in the August 2021 Issue of Gardening in Orange County.

When it comes to invasive species, patience and persistence are key.  This is a marathon not a sprint.  Eradicating invasive species takes the determination of the tortoise, not the hare.  We need to exercise a consistently forward, strategic plan to manage our alien invaders.  A fast sprint to the win is not usually possible.

invasive species – a non-native species to the ecosystem that they occupy, AND who’s existence causes harm to the economy, the environment, or human health.

Invasive plants grow quickly, and spread to the point of disrupting communities and ecosystems. For the most part, these invaders are not affected by native pests and diseases. The only predator they will encounter in our landscape is you.

Why should we care about invasive plant species?

Invasive plants degrade native habitat.  They are poor food producers for our native wildlife.  They clog waterways, destroys native habitats, ruins views, and causes wildfires.  Millions of dollars a year are spent on control methods.

What are the benefits of managing invasive species?

Managing invasive species benefits wildlife, the environment, and ourselves. Our goal is to create resilience in our ecosystem.  By restoring areas dominated by invasive species and helping native plant communities to thrive we can help allow biodiversity to persist and help keep natural areas intact.help allow biodiversity to persist and help keep natural areas intact.

Integrated Pest Management

To begin to eradicate invasive species, we must first develop an Integrated Pest Management (IPM) plan.  IPM is a process we use to solve pest problems while minimizing risk to people, wildlife, and the environment.

There are 6 steps to an IPM strategy:

    1. Sample for Pests (Inspect and Monitor): Is there a real problem?
    2. Properly identify pests: Is it really the pest you think it is?
    3. Learn the pest biology: Will it be a long-tern problem, or will it be gone next week?
    4. Determine an action threshold: Do you need to act?
    5. Choose Tactics: What’s the best treatment?
    6. Evaluate: How did it work?

Pyramid of IPM Tatics (from top to bottom, prevention to eradication, least toxic to most toxic) Cultural: site & plant selection, fertility, crop rotation, sanitation; Physical/Mechanical: hand weeding, insect traps, mulch, rototilling, barriers; Biological: predators, parasitoids, diseases of pests; Chemical: biorational pesticides, insect growth regulators, repellents, microbials, oils; Chemical: conventional pesticides

When it comes to control tactics in IPM, we start with the least toxic when available and move up the pyramid to the most toxic (conventional pesticides) as needed.

Here are some IPM Strategies to implement when dealing with what I consider three of our top plant invaders:

    • Common Reed / Phragmites (Phragmites australis)
    • Japanese Knotweed (Fallopia japonica)
    • Multiflora Rose (Rosa multiflora)

For each of these formidable opponent, we head right to the mechanical/physical control methods followed by strategic application of chemical herbicides.

Sketch from an old book of a man with a backpack sprayer spray a tree, under sketch are the words Fig. 97 La Torpille Duster.Some of the following strategies include herbicide recommendations.  Every effort has been made to provide correct, complete, and up-to-date herbicide recommendations. Nevertheless, changes in herbicide regulations occur constantly and human errors are still possible.  These recommendations are not a substitute for herbicide labeling.  Please read the label before applying any herbicide. The label is the law!

Xylem (blue lines) carries water from the roots upwards phloem (orange line) carries products of photosynthesis from the place of their origin (source) to organs where they are needed (roots, storage organs, flowers, fruits – sink); note that e.g. the storage organs may be source and leaves may be sink at the beginning of the growing seasonIf you decide to use an herbicide to combat these invaders, timing is key. When applied to a plant, the herbicide glyphosate, one of the most widely used weed killers, will be translocated in the plant’s phloem, which the plant uses to transport sugars and other metabolic products. But the herbicide will only be transported in the direction the plant is moving sugars. For the majority of the season plants are using sugars that they had stored in the rhizomes to grow, meaning that sugars are moving upwards in the plant’s phloem. Only once a plant starts to flower does it begin to store sugars back down in the rhizomes, meaning that sugars are moving downward in the plant and when applied glyphosate will reach the rhizomes. Both Phragmites and Japanese knotweed have extensive rhizomes

Carefully disposing of plant material from invasive plants is extremely important as many invasive species can grow from small fragments. Two common practices are burning plant material (according to state and local laws) and putting it in black garbage bags and sending it to the landfill. To reduce the volume before shipping it off to the landfill, you can leave it on an extremely hot surface such as an asphalt driveway prior to being discarded. You should not try and compost this material as it will most likely resprout and cause more problems.


Common Reed / Phragmites

Common reed - stand of tall grass with seed head on topPhragmites, also known as common reed,  is a perennial grass that can grow over 15 feet tall.  It is commonly found in marsh and wetland areas where it forms dense stands that crowd out native vegetation.  These monoculture that do not support the diversity needed for a thriving ecosystem

Phragmites spreads by both rhizome and wind pollinated seed.  It has very deep roots and thrives in moist areas and aquatic environments.  It also conducts chemical warfare against other plants by secreting allelochemicals to suppress their growth.

For this formidable opponent, we head right to the mechanical / physical control methods followed by strategic application of chemical herbicides.

Method A: Clip and Drip

After the plant has flowered, clip and remove stem, then immediately apply the herbicide glyphosate, to the hollow stems with a drip bottle.  Stems can be bundled before they are clipped to make it easier to drip herbicide on hundreds of stems simultaneously. This method is extraordinarily labor intensive but can work wonderfully without the loss of native plants.  Remember to dispose of any cut material properly.

Method B: Cut and Spray

After the plant has flowered, cut and remove stem followed by targeted spraying of an appropriate herbicide via backpack mounted sprayers or mist blowers.  Remember to dispose of any cut material properly.

Method C: Burn It

Conduct a controlled burn following state and local laws as well as safety guidelines. This will kill stems and seeds. If regrowth occurs use chemical methods.

Method D: Drown It

Drown it.  Cut stems under 6” of water.  Dispose of cut material properly.  Phragmites will drown in 1 year by early fall if water level is maintained.

For each of these methods, it is important to reevaluate yearly and determine what if any further eradication is necessary. Once removing a stand of phragmites make sure you remove the layer of dead shoots, stems, and roots on top of the soil surface before a restoration planting of native plants.


Japanese Knotweed

Japanese knotweed in full bloomJapanese knotweed is an herbaceous perennial that creates dense thickets that crowd and shade out native vegetation. In the United States rhizomes can reach 30-75 feet in length and are the chief cause of spread. Fragment of stem and rhizome can regenerate new plants. In big storm events pieces of the plant are broken off and transported to new areas, where they can establish new colonies. Finding small plant fragments digging them out and disposing of them properly can go a long way in saving resources, time, and the damage of future infestations.

Along waterways Japanese knotweed replaces riparian vegetation reducing diversity and altering the aquatic ecosystems.  The loss of tree and shrub canopy can cause an increase in water temperature which in turn affects water chemistry and fish habitat.  The loss of leaf litter and woody debris results in a loss of shelter for fish and invertebrates.  The inability of ground covers and mosses to grow beneath the dense canopy of knotweed results in bare soils leaving banks susceptible to erosion resulting in siltation in stream beds, which again alters fish habitat.

We will once again skip up the pyramid and head to our mechanical/physical management tools in order to begin controlling Japanese knotweed.

Method A: Dig, Dig, Dig

Cut the knotweed stalks, digging out the root crowns and as much of the rhizome network as possible. This is very labor intensive and may take several years to gain control of a stand of Japanese knotweed.

Method B: Cut, Dig, Cover

Cut the knotweed stalks, digging out the root crowns and as much of the rhizome network as possible. Then cover the ground with thick black landscape plastic to block sunlight and thereby destroy any remaining rhizomes. Leave covered for at least one year.  Experimental plots which were left covered for three years, showed less regrowth of knotweed.

Method C: Cut, Cut, Cut

Cut down knotweed plants 2 or 3 times each growing season.  Dispose of properly. Several years of successive cutting will weaken the knotweed’s rhizomes, so they can be pulled out with relative ease.

Method D: Cut and Spray

Cut down knotweed plants 2 or 3 times each growing season. Dispose of properly. Several years of successive cutting will weaken the knotweed’s rhizomes, so they can be pulled out with relative ease.

Biological Control

The Knotweed Psyllid (Aphalara itadori) was released on June 10th, 2020, in New York’s Tioga and Broome counties.  Research and monitoring are ongoing.

For each of these methods, it is important to reevaluate yearly and determine what if any further eradication is necessary. Once control has begun make sure to implement a restoration planting of native plants.


Multiflora Rose

A large thicket of multifloral rose in bloom on the edge of a wooded areaMultifloral Rose is an herbaceous shrub in the rose family (Rosaceae).  It has canes or stems) have numerous thorns and  can grow up to 15 feet in length and usually arc toward the ground and takes root, a process called layering. This creates dense thickets 6-10 feet tall. After establishment, individuals can increase their size by 1-2 feet a week during midsummer.  Multifloral rose has clusters of showy, fragrant white flowers in late May or June.   It spreads through seed, root sprouting, and layering. The fruit, known as rose hips, are eaten and dispersed by our feathered friends, and can persist and remain viable in the soil for up to 20 years.

Method A:  Dig, Dig, Dig

Remove isolated individuals before they multiply. Small populations of young plants are not difficult to pull taking care to use protection against thorns. Be sure to pull the entire root system to prevent re-sprouting.

Method B: Mow, Mow, Mow

Repeated cutting or mowing at the rate of three to six times per growing season, for two to four years, has been shown to be effective in achieving high mortality.

Method C: Cut and Spray

Mow or cut large infestations to prep for herbicide application  After mowing, wait for knee level regrowth before treating with herbicide. While foliar sprays can be done anytime during the growing season, all these chemicals will also harm non-target herbaceous plants and trees if applied to their leaves.  Care needs be taken to prevent damage to non-target plants.


As previously stated, patience and persistence are necessary when attempting to eradicate an invasive species.  In order to sustain myself through what seems like a never-ending task, I maintain the attitude that I am working with nature on a productive journey. I find also that monitoring progress and achieving even minimal success is very encouraging.  When we keep in mind all the positive effects that our efforts are having on the wildlife, our ecosystem, and ourselves, the reward is great.

It is my hope that I have shared some of the tools to help you take on one or more of our invaders.

Stop the Silent Invasion!

Please spread the word, not the weeds !


Resources

General

Managing Invasive Plants: Methods of Control – University of New Hampshire Extension

Mistaken Identity? Invasive Plants and their Native Look-alikes – Delaware Department of Agriculture

New York State Invasive Species – New York Invasive Species Information – Cornell University

Common Reed / Phragmites

Common Reed – New York Invasive Species Information – Cornell Cooperative Extension

Successfully Managing Phragmites  – Ecological Landscape Alliance

Japanese Knotweed

Homeowner’s Guide to Japanese Knotweed Control – Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources

Japanese Knotweed – New York Invasive Species Information – Cornell Cooperative Extension

Japanese Knotweed – University of Wisconsin Extension

Managing Japanese Knotweed: Two Small-Scale Strategies – Ecological Landscape Alliance

Multifloral Rose

Multifloral Rose – New York Invasive Species Information- Cornell Cooperative Extension

Multifloral Rose – Penn State Extension


Gardener’s Checklist

August 2021

Garden Maintenance

  • Deadhead annuals and perennials regularly too encourage new blooms.
  • Consider adding some herbs to you perennial flower garden.

    Japanese Knotwwed in full bloom
    Invasive Japanese Knotweed

Webinar: Gardening with Herbs – Cornell Cooperative Extension Chemung County

Pest Watch

A silken fall webworm nest at the end of a branch full of caterpillars.
Fall Webworm Nest
  • Keep pests out of your home this fall!

Webinar: Keeping Pests Out of Your Home this Fall: From Stink Bugs to Mice – NYS IPM

  • Scout your lawn for grubs—before you treat!!

VIDEO: Using IPM to Assess Your Lawn for White Grubs – NYS IPM

  • Dump out any standing water from containers in your yard to prevent mosquito breeding.
A very holey head of cabbage a result of feeding by the imported cabbageworm
Imported cabbageworm damage on cabbage.

How to Manage Mosquitoes in the Landscape – New York State Integrated Pest Management

  • Scout often for pest in your vegetable garden.

What Kind of Insect is Destroying my Plants?– Gardening in Orange County New York Blog

Vegetable Gardening

  • Rejuvenate your soil by planting a fall cover crop such as barley or clover.
Light purple clover flower against a background of green leaves
Clover makes a great fall cover crop.

Webinar: Cover Crops for the Home Garden – Cornell Cooperative Extension Tompkins County

  • Continue to remove weeds, as they compete with your garden plants for water, sunlight, and space.
Bottom of basil eaf covered with downy mildew spores
Basil Downy Mildew
  • Preserve your bounty.

Webinars: Food Preservation – Cornell Cooperative Extension Tompkins County


Happy Gardening!

Black Swallowtail on Lupine ‘Tutti Fruitti’

It’s New York’s Invasive Species Awareness Week!

Stop the Invasion!

It’s New York’s Invasive Species Awareness Week!

Sunday, June 6 through Saturday, June 12, 2021

Invasive species are defined as species that are both:

    • non-native (or alien) to the ecosystem under consideration, and
    • whose introduction causes or is likely to cause economic or environmental harm or harm to human health.

There are lots of ways to get involved this week including:

Follow us on Facebook this week as we learn about some of the common invasive species in our area!

If you want to read about some invasive species in our area, check out some of our blog posts:

Here are some great resources all about invasive species:

Pest Watch: Gypsy Moth

By Karen McCarthy, Newburgh Master Gardener Volunteer

This article appeared in the May 2021 Issue of Gardening in Orange County.

Trees with the upper canopy almost devoid of leaves due to gypsy mothYears ago, hiking with friends in Orange County in July, we noticed something was “off.”  It was too bright in the forest, and we heard a sound like rain.  Looking up, we realized we were in an area infested with gypsy moth caterpillars that had eaten most of the leaves, creating more light than shade. The sound we heard was falling caterpillar excrement.  A ruined hike!

The gypsy moth (Lymantria dispar) is native to Europe and was introducedto the United States in 1868 by a French scientist in Massachusetts hoping to breed a silk-spinning caterpillar that was resistant to disease.  Some of his moths escaped and are now found as far west as Minnesota and as far south as South Carolina.

The gypsy moth is one of the most important forest pests in our area as the larvae gorge themselves on shrub and tree leaves, leaving them bare and susceptible to disease.  They cause millions of dollars of damage every year.  They will feed on a wide variety of tree species, but prefer oaks, apples, birches, poplars, and willows.

Diagram of a Gypsy Moth Lifecycle - Eggs from September until March, Larva in April, May and June, Pupa in July, Adults in August and SeptemberLifecycle

Gypsy moths spend most of the year as eggs.  These egg masses can contain 500 to 1000 eggs and can be found on trees, firewood, outdoor household items, mobile homes, etc .  Depending on the weather, in our area gypsy moth eggs will hatch in late April or early May.

Once the larvae emerge, they begin to move upwards into the canopy of a tree.  Some larvae will stay in that tree to complete their lifecycle while others will spin a long silken thread and suspend themselves in the air waiting for a strong wind the carry to another tree; this is know as ‘ballooning.’  Once the ballooning larvae settle on a new host it will begin feeding.

Three gypsy moth caterpolars on a bunch of green leavesIn June or early July, gypsy moth caterpillars will stop feeding and pupate.  Two weeks later they will emerge as adults.  Male moths are brown with black markings while female  moths are white with black markings.  Female moths do NOT fly which means that ballooning larvae is one of the most important means of dispersal.  Of course humans also play a large role in the dispersal of this invasive species.  A great time to remind you: “Don’t Move Fire Wood!”
Dontmovefirewood.orgAdult gyps moths do not eat and are only around for about two weeks.  Males usually emerge first and wait for the females, who put out a pheromone to attract them.  After mating the females lay eggs and then die.

Management

Overwintering egg masses can be scraped off trees and destroyed before they hatch in late April and early May.  Young caterpillars,
less than one inch in length, can be killed using the biopesticde Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt). When using any pesticide read and follow all the instructions on the label!

A tree yellow band coverd with a sticky substance to trap the approaching gypsy moth caterpillars. with a Once caterpillars hatch they climb up the tree in search of food, so tree bands made of duct tape with the sticky side out or another nonporous material smeared with a stick substance can be used to trap them. For a severe infestation you may need to contact a local arborist. Find one at https://www.treesaregood.org/.  Repeated annual defoliation can result in the death of a tree.

‘Fun’ Facts

One two-inch gypsy moth caterpillar can consume up to one square foot of foliage every 24 hours.

In places where there are 250 or more egg masses per acre, larvae can defoliate the infested trees.

Ballooning gypsy moth caterpillars can travel up to mile.

Map of Gypsy Moth Management ZonesIn Ohio, where gypsy moths have not yet established themselves throughout the state, they deploy 12,000 gypsy moth traps across the state to monitor movement and evaluate, detect or delineate newly established colonies.

To National Gypsy Moth Slow the Spread Program is one of the world’s largest and most successful integrated pest management programs.

Resources

Gypsy Moth – NYS Department of Environmental Conservation

Gypsy Moth – University of Massachusetts Amherst

Gypsy Moth Forecast – National Phenology Network

National Gypsy Moth Slow the Spread Program

VIDEO: Gypsy Moth in New York 2021 – Cornell University

Gardener’s Check List

May 2021

Garden Maintenance

  • Remove dead leaves from flower and vegetable beds.

When can I clean up my garden…and still protect beneficial insects? – Biocontrol Bytes, NYSIPM

  • Divide perennials so they have more space to grow.  Give extras to family and friends.
  • Light purple lilac blooms
    Lilacs

    Remove flowerheads after lilac bloom.

  • Plant a cutting garden to create beautiful flower arrangements all summer long.

WORKSHOP: Growing and Selecting Flowers for Floral Arrangements –  Cornell Cooperative Extension Orange County

  • Remove emerging weeds before they take over your garden.
  • A short wooden tub set next to a tree overflowing with plants: a tall grass with red leaves, a bright green plant with white viens and a dark pruple plant spilling over the edge.Consider using container gardening to beautify your home, create a privacy screen and/or grow vegetables and herbs.

WORKSHOP: Creating Beautiful Container Gardens – Cornell Cooperative Extension Orange County

Pest Watch

Get your ticks tested for free! – Upstate Medical University

  • Watch out for snails and slugs in the garden.

Spotted Lanternfly Look-alikes – Virginia Cooperative Extension

  • Scout your stone fruit trees(i.e. cherry, peach, plum, etc.) for black knot.

Vegetable Gardening

  • Install supports for climbing vegetables such as peas and beans before planting seeds
  • Seed or transplant hardy vegetables such as kale, beets, peas, radishes, chard and carrots.

Vegetable Planing Guide – Cornell Cooperative Extension

  • Transplant warm weather vegetables and tender annuals after the last frost.

Patience is a Virtue in Planting Outdoors – Times Herald-Record


Play out in the rain!

A small child in yellow rain boots jumping in a puddle

Pest Watch: Tree-of-Heaven (or Hell)

By Cecille Jones, Monroe Master Gardener Volunteer

This article appeared in the March 2021 Issue of Gardening in Orange County.

15 foot Tree of Heaven growing out of the foundation of a buildingWhen you hear the name tree-of-heaven (Ailanthus altissima), remember this: There is nothing heavenly about this invasive plant. It is so named only because it can grow to such heights that it is as if it’s reaching for the sky.

This plant is aggressive and does not have natural predators to keep it in check. When native plant and animal species are hindered, the balance and biodiversity of the native ecosystem is upset and could potentially lead to extinctions.

Close-ip of small greenish white flowers of Tree-of-HeavenAlso called Chinese sumac, the tree of heaven is attractive to pollinators, further ensuring its spread. It releases a toxic chemical into the soil that harms other plants, rodents and microbes. What’s more, the tree-of-heaven is said to advance the spread of the spotted lanternfly, an invasive insect that feeds on and damages many species of native and fruit-bearing trees. The lanternfly prefers to lay its eggs on the tree-of-heaven, so keeping this tree in check could limit the lanternfly’s advance.

Identification

Proper identification of the tree-of-heaven is important because it can be confused with native plants such as the staghorn sumac, black walnut and butternut, to name a few.

One quick way to tell the difference: When you crush the foliage or break a twig, the tree-of-heaven will emit a foul odor.

Leaves of Tree-of-HeavenLike its native look-alikes, the leaves of the tree-of-heaven are pinnately compound. They have a central stem (called rachis) in which leaflets are attached directly opposite each other. One leaf can be as long as 4 feet with 10 to 40 lance-shaped leaflets with smooth margins, except at the base where there are one of two protruding bumps called grandular teeth. In contrast, the leaves of the native plants are much shorter and have fewer leaflets with serrated (teeth-like) margins.

Management

Tree-of-Heaven is a formidable advisory as it spreads using both seeds and root sprouts.  Cutting down of tree-of-heaven is ineffective and may exacerbate the problem as the remaining roots will then send up new sprouts.  Watch this great video to learn how to effectively remove tree-of-heaven from your property.

Pesticide regulations vary state to state. If unsure whether or not you can use a certain pesticide in your state, contact your local Cooperative Extension Office. When using herbicides make sure to carefully read the entire label  before application and follow all of the instructions including wearing proper personal protective equipment (PPE). The label is the law!

Resources

Tree-of-Heaven – Lower Hudson Prism

Managing Invasive Plants: Methods of Control – University of New Hampshire

Tree-of-Heaven – Penn State Extension

The Story of Kudzu

The Story of Kudzu: From Exotic Rarity to Unwanted Invasive

By Cecille Jones, Monroe Master Gardener Volunteer

This article appeared in the December 2020 / January 2021 Issue of Gardening in Orange County.

Kudzo blanketing a natural area covering bushes tall trees and open ground
Without natural pests and plants to keep its growth in check, the non-native, invasive kudzu has overtaken this swath of land, destroying biodiversity and altering native habitats.

Today, we know kudzu (Pueraria montana) as an invasive vine, an unwanted interloper.  Nicknamed the Vine That Ate the South or the foot-a-night vine, poet James Dickie labeled it a vegetable form of cancer.

This climbing vine flourishes in the Southeast, where heat and humidity provide a paradise for the perennial legume. Today, kudzu has covered millions of acres of land, trees and abandoned buildings and has been spotted as far north as New York and Massachusetts. Non-native and aggressive, kudzu can lead to the extinction of native plants, destroy biodiversity and permanently alter habitats.

Map of kudzu range
Kudzu’s current range

As reviled as it is today, kudzu’s reputation didn’t start out that way. Kudzu made its American debut in 1876 at the Philadelphia Centennial Exposition. Thirty-seven countries participated in the 100-year celebration of the signing of the Declaration of Independence, and nearly 10 million people showed up. At the Japanese pavilion, people admired the exotic rarity called kudzu.

Purple flower of the kudzu plant
Kudzu flower

From there, kudzu was marketed in the Southeast as an ornamental vine meant to shade porches with fragrant flowers. By the 1920s, Charles and Lillie Pleas of the Glen Arden Nursery in Florida discovered that animals would eat kudzu and so they promoted it as forage as well.

A decade later, severe drought and incorrect farming methods helped to create the Dust Bowl. Turning to kudzu to control soil erosion and feed cattle, the government distributed up to 85 million seedlings and paid farmers as much as $8 an acre to plant kudzu. By 1946, there were three million acres of kudzu.

Meanwhile, Channing Cope became the plant’s most famous advocate. Through his daily radio program, he promoted the virtues of “the miracle vine.” At the height of its popularity, there were kudzu beauty contests, clubs, and even recipes.

Much to Cope’s disappointment, in 1953, the USDA removed kudzu from its list of recommended cover plants. By 1970, it was classified as a weed. Seven years later, kudzu made the Federal Noxious Weed List.

Herd of goats grazing on kudzu. THe trees are still coered, but the ground is bare.Today, the cost to control and combat this invasive plant runs in the millions of dollars annually. From herbicides to persistent clearing, scientists have also discovered that Angora goats take to kudzu like candy. Perhaps it’s time to call in the goat busters?

Read more about Kudzu

Kudzu – New York Invasive Species Information

Lessons Learned from Six Years of Kudzu Research – New York State Integrated Pest Management Program

The True Story of Kudzu, the Vine That Never Truly Ate the South – Smithsonian Magazine

Pest Watch: Emerald Ash Borer

by Susan Ndiaye, Community Horticulture Educator

Close up of an ash tree in which the bark has fallen off leaving a light tan color area
Woodpecker damage on ash tree

Hopefully you’ve spent some time outside enjoying the beautiful spring weather we had last weekend.   Did you noticed any ash trees that look like they have been completely stripped of their bark?  Did you wonder what happened?  Did you think it was a disease, an insect or maybe a deer?  This damaged is actually caused by woodpeckers.  They are searching for emerald ash borer larvae which can be found just below the bark.

Slender shiny emerald green beetle with large black eyes standing on a leaf
Adult emerald ash borer

The emerald ash borer (Agrilus planipennis) is an shiny emerald-colored jewel beetle.  Native to Asia, it was first discovered in North America near Detroit, Michigan in 2002 (most likely hitching a ride here in solid wood packing materials used in the transportation of goods).

Despite its beauty, the emerald ash borer is an invasive insect and has killed hundreds of millions of ash trees throughout North America.  As of April 2020, it has been found in 35 states and 5 Canadian provinces costing municipalities, property owners, nursery operators and forestry product industries hundreds of millions of dollars.

Emerald Ash Borer Lifecycle as described in the textLifecycle

Emerald ash borers, like all beetles, undergo complete metamorphosis.  Usually in June and July, adult females lay 60-90 eggs on the bark of ash trees (Fraxinus spp.).  The eggs hatch and the larvae bore through the outer bark and begin feeding on the inner bark or phloem of the ash tree.  The larvae feed for several weeks growing to rough 1 to 1.25 inches in length.  The larvae then overwinter in the bark.  In the spring they pupate and finally in May and June emerge as adults and exit their host tree by creating a D-shaped whole in the bark.  The adults feed on the leaves of the ash tree, mate, and females lay eggs starting the cycle over.

Damage

As mentioned before, the larvae of the emerald ash borer feed on the inner bark or phloem of the ash tree.  The phloem is part of the vascular system of the plant and is responsible for transporting the sugars produced by photosynthesis in the leaves to the rest of tree.  Damage to the phloem cuts of the nutrient supply and eventually leads to the death of the tree.

An ashe tree with no leaves inthe canopy but lots of leafy shoots covering the trunk
Dying ash tree

One of the first symptoms produced by an emerald ash borer infestation is a thinning canopy.  With fewer leaves the tree’s ability to produce food through photosynthesis decreases and as a result the tree may produce lots of  shoots that sprout from the roots and trunk.  The leaves on these shoots are often larger than normal as the tree tries to compensate for its loss of photosynthetic capability.   The tree’s canopy will continue to thin eventually leaving the tree bare.

Many people do not notice that the canopy of their ash tree is thinning.  For many people, the first symptom that they notice is the woodpecker damage on the trunk.  At this point the tree is usually heavily infested by emerald ash borer and will soon succumb to the infestation.

Management

The emerald ash borer was first detected in New York State in 2009 over in  Cattaraugus County.   Two years later, in 2011, it was detected here in Orange County.  As of right now the majority of trees in Orange County have been infested by the emerald ash borer and are showing signs of decline or have died.   Once you notice that the canopy of your ash tree is thinning  there has already been extensive damage to the vascular system of the tree and even with treatment there is little chance of recovery.

Deciding whether or not to treat your ash tree is up to you.  The first thing to do is make sure you properly identify your tree.

Once you have properly identified your tree there are three option: cut it, treat it, or leave it.

Cut It

Ash trees that create a potential hazard (i.e. proximity to a building) need to be removed.   If you cannot safely remove the tree yourself,  look for a certified arborist near you at www.treesaregood.org.   Many ash trees are being turned into firewood.  Keep in mind that New York State law prohibits the movement of firewood more than 50 miles (linear distance) from its source, specifically to prevent the accidental movement of invasive species like the emerald ash borer.   Don’t Move Firewood!Dontmovefirewood.org

Treat It

Remember that that if you tree is already showing signs of decline it is probably too late to save it through treatment.

If you decide you want to treat your ash tree(s), it is not just a one time investment.  Most treatments only last one or two years before they wear off leaving the tree susceptible to infestation.  This means trees need to be treated ever couple years since at the moment the emerald ash borer looks like it is here to stay.

There are many insecticides on the market that are labeled for emerald ash borer.  Many of them need to be applied by a certified pesticide applicator.  If you are interested in protecting your ash tree(s) check out  Insecticide Options for Protecting Ash Trees from Emerald Ash Borer for more information.

Leave It

If your ash tree poses no potential hazard, consider leaving it.  Although the emerald ash borer has killed millions of ash trees here in North America, there is hope the identification of “lingering ash” or an ash that stays healthy after nearby trees have overwhelmingly succumbed to the emerald ash borer.  The identification of “lingering ash” could help achieve ash species conservation.   Click here to learn more about how you can become a citizen scientist with the Lingering Ash Search through the Monitoring and Managing Ash Program.Decision Tree integrating long-term conservation perspective: Cut it, Treat it, Leave it, Treat

Fun Facts
Biological Control

Although there are some predatory wasps that feed on emerald ash borers, the two avenues of biological control that have shown potential in being able to help manage populations of emerald ash borer are parasitoid wasps and entomopathogenic fungi.

parasitoid wasp
Parasitoid wasp (Spathius galinae)

Let’s start with the parasitoid wasps.  Three species of parasitoid wasps found in the emerald ash borer’s native range were were considered potential biological control agents.  These parasitoids are natural enemies of the emerald ash borer and have long ovipositors that allow them to drill into the ash trees and lay their eggs on the emerald ash borer larvae.  Once the eggs hatch the wasp larvae consume the emerald ash borer larvae alive.  (Note: In order to get permission to release these parasitoid wasps in the United Stated, it took four or five years of research to make sure that they  were host specific to emerald ash borer and wouldn’t impact any other similar species.)  Of the three species released, two are showing promise, although research is still being done regarding their dispersal, spread, and ability to overwinter.

Onto the entomopathogenic fungus, Beauveria bassiana.  When spores of this fungus come in contact with the emerald ash borer, they germinate and penetrate the cuticle of the insect.  The fungus continues growing inside the insect eventually killing it.  Although research has show that this fungus can kill the emerald ash borer, more research is need to see if it is effective form a biological control out in the field.

Phenology
Two adult emerald ash borers emerging from an ash tree. One one is have way out and the other's head is just visble as in the D-shaped hole it has created.
Two emerging adult emerald ash borers

Many things in nature are governed by the weather, such as the hatching of bagworm eggs and in this case the emergence of emerald ash borer adults.  You can track this year’s emergence using the “Emerald Ash Borer Forecast“.  This forecast is updated daily and available six days in the future.  Emerald ash borer adults are rarely seen.  Once they emerge, they fly up into the canopy to feed on the leaves.  But if you know when they are emerging you can be on the look out and might be lucky enough to find one.

The Oleaceae Family
Olive tree branch with two clusters of olives
Olive tree

The ash tree is a member of the Oleacae Family and researchers have found that the emerald ash borer can also complete its life cycle in another well-known member of the Oleacae family, the olive tree (Olea europaea).  Although this has only been shown in a laboratory project, there is a possibility that the emerald ash borer could become a problem for olive growers.

Another member of the Oleacae family, the white fringetree (Chionanthus virginicus) is also used as a host for the emerald ash borer.  Although when infested some of these trees don’t survive, a recent study found that white fringetrees are likely to withstand attacks by the emerald ash borer.

Resources

Ash Tree Identification – Michigan State University Extension

Distinguishing Ash from other Common Trees – Michigan State University Extension

Emerald Ash Borer Information Network

Emerald Ash Borer Forecast – National Phenology Network

Insecticide Options for Protecting Ash Trees from Emerald Ash Borer

Signs and Symptoms of the Emerald Ash Borer – Michigan State University Extension