All posts by sgn32

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Pest Watch Update: Bagworms!

by Susan Ndiaye, Community Horticulture Educator

It is time to revisit our post on bagworms! Over the weekend, I was notified by the National Phenology Network that bagworm caterpillars will be emerging in our area in the next six days. If you need to treat a tree that has been infested with bagworms in the past, it is important to do so soon after emergence when the caterpillars are small, as treatments are not effective against larger caterpillars.

pinecone like structure hanging on an evergreen tree

Have you ever noticed one of these structures hanging on a Colorado blue spruce or an arborvitae? They kind of look like pine cones, but not exactly. Well, they aren’t pine cones, but silken bags spun and decorated by bagworms (Thyridopteryx ephemeraeform).

Bagworms are moths whose larvae feed on evergreens such as spruce, juniper, pine and arborvitae. The larvae can also feed on deciduous trees such as maple, elm, birch and sycamore. Bagworms defoliate the trees and shrubs they infest. In large numbers, bagworms can cause significant defoliation, which can lead to the death of the plant.

Bagworm Lifecycle

In late spring, bagworm eggs, which overwinter in their mother’s silken bag, hatch and caterpillars emerge. These caterpillars begin to form new silk bags, and as they eat, they cover it with bits of leaves. As the caterpillar grows, it expand its bags. Then in late summer the caterpillar firmly attaches its bag to the plant and pupates.

Adult male bagworm - clear winged moth with furry brown body
Adult male bagworm

Complete metamorphosis from caterpillar to moth takes about four weeks. Adult male bagworms emerge from their bags as clear winged moths and begin to search for a mate. Adult female bagworms are wingless moths and never leave their bags. After mating females produce 500-1000 eggs before dying. Their eggs overwinter inside their mother’s silken bag and the whole cycle begins again.

Management

Because bagworms are protected by their silken bag, management can be tricky. For smaller trees and shrubs the best tactic is to remove and destroy the bags by hand. Unfortunately, this is not possible in all instances, especially on larger trees and shrubs. Insecticides are most effective right after bagworm eggs hatch, when the caterpillars are small.

But how does one know when the eggs are going to hatch? Well, it turns out that there is a “Bagworm Forecast” that you can check in the spring to determine the best time to apply insecticide. The maps provided by this forecast are updated daily and available six days in the future, so you can plan ahead.

For recommendations on pesticides, check out the resources below. And as always, make sure you read and follow all the instructions on the pesticide label including the use of personal protective equipment. The label is the law!

If you need to spray a larger tree, you may need to contact an arborist. Click here to find a certified arborist near you.

Fun Facts

As females don’t fly, you may wonder how bagworms spread. Bagworm caterpillars can balloon, or use their silk threads to catch the wind and travel long distances.

Despite relatively little protection for overwintering bagworm eggs, research at Purdue University found that it takes a 24 hr period at -0.6 ° F or below to kill the eggs. So if you live in Orange County New York don’t expect a cold winter to kill off your bagworms.

Here is a video of a bagworm feeding!

Video from Purdue University Landscape Report (https://www.purduelandscapereport.org/article/824/)

Resources

Bagworm – Penn State University

Bagworms – Cornell University

Bagworm Forecast – USA National Phenology Network

Bagworms on Landscape Plants – University of Kentucky

Cold weather in January 2018 may have killed bagworms in some parts of Indiana – Landscape Report, Purdue University

Gardening Knowledge, Out in the Garden

Smoke Not a Problem for Vegetables

by Steve Reiners, Professor in Horticulture, Cornell University, Cornell AgriTech

A vegetable garden with a combination of cabbage surrounded by small yellow and orange flowers and dark purple leafy greensCanadian wildfires are impacting air quality here in the Northeast.  Smoke has filled the sky and warnings are issued for outdoor activities. This is making many growers and gardeners worried about the potential impact the smoke will have on field grown vegetables.  The good news is the impact will be minimal at worst.

Smoke filled skies decrease sunlight and reduce photosynthesis but to a small degree and temporarily.  Despite the shade, there is still enough diffused light penetrating the smoke to maintain growth.  Smoke typically does not block the pores in the leaf (stomata) where photosynthesis happens.  The most important thing you can do is maintain good soil moisture by optimizing irrigation.  This will keep the pores open and clean.  The droughty conditions this spring are likely to cause more of a problem than the smoke.

Concerns that leafy greens and other commodities will pick up a smokey flavor are unwarranted.  Recent research done in California after wildfires there showed leafy greens had no issues with flavor or possible volatile chemicals on or within the leaves.  The smoke we’re seeing does not contain dangerous chemicals.

The smoke we are experiencing is nearly 100% from the burning forests, not plastics, buildings or chemicals as seen in recent train derailments. The rain that falls through this smoky layer is also not dangerous to plants, people or animals.  Unlike acid rain that forms from the burning of high sulfur fuels, the rain will be near neutral pH or just slightly acid.

Pollinators will likely stay close to their hives when it’s smoky.  It’s a little early in the season for pollination of squash and other fruiting crops, so this should not be a problem.  Even if the crop has flowers, bees will become active again as soon as the smoke clears.

Mask up when you’re outside tending to your plants as the smoke is a danger to you and me.  But the vegetables should be fine.  Keep them well watered, and you should be enjoying a normal harvest later this summer.

Gardening Knowledge

Beyond the Avocado Pit

by Mary Pobedinsky, Monroe Master Gardener Volunteer

Photo: Three elementary aged kids in white polo shirts leaning over a table looking at bean seedlings that sprouted in clear plastic cups half filled with soil.I like growing plants from things I find at the grocery store.  I’ve been doing this for quite a while, since third-grade bean experiments for science fairs, through apple, orange and lemon seeds, and on to growing avocado trees from their pits.

Here is a list of some of the plants that I have grown from things found in grocery stores.

I’ve learned a lot about growing plants from these adventures.  For instance, if you start an avocado pit in water with toothpicks holding it up, it will be very hard to stuff it into a pot later without breaking the brittle root.  But you can also grow an avocado tree by just putting the pit in a pot, so the top inch is above the surface—avocados need light to germinate.  Apple, orange and lemon seeds may indeed grow into a tree, but they usually won’t flower or produce fruit—they don’t come true from seeds.  Beans are still a safe bet, and one bag of dry beans will grow a lot of bean plants—all of the same kind.  But why not try something really different?

Photo: Celery. A bunch of celery that has been cut of a few inches from the base. It is in a small green plastic pot of soil and new sprouts have started to emerge from the center of the clump.
Celery plant
Photo: A pineapple plant. The plant has 20 or so sword-shaped leaves growing from the base as well as a stalk growing from the middle of the base that has a miniature pineapple on top.
Pineapple plant

Probably the easiest-to-grow plants available at grocery stores are pineapples and sweet potatoes.  Pineapples can make instant house plants.  Choose a pineapple with a fresh, green top and cut it off just where the fruit begins to slope, then remove any remaining fruit from the top.  Peel off the lowest green leaves–you may see small roots already formed at the base.  Plant the top in regular potting soil, just deep enough so it will stand up on its own, and keep the soil and leaves moist until the roots have taken hold.  You can grow celery the same way, just by planting the base with a few inches of stalks still attached.  New stalks will start to grow within a week.

Photo: A sweet potato in a submerged in a glass of water. Growing out of the top of the sweet potato are lots green sprouts growing up out of the water and lots of thin white roots growing down into the water.
Sprouting sweet potato

Sweet potatoes are even easier: select a small sweet potato (it will double in size) and place it, pointy end up, in a jar or glass of water.  In just a few days you’ll see white dots as the roots start to form, then pretty green vines will emerge from the top.  You can keep it going in water for a long time, changing the water when it gets cloudy, or plant it in a pot.  In spring you can plant each vine (slip) separately outside and in fall harvest more sweet potatoes!

The produce aisles are full of things that might possibly grow into plants:  papayas, pomegranates and even passion fruits have seeds that are easy to grow if a bit messy.  WARNING:  if you try to remove the red arils from pomegranate seeds so they’re less likely to mold, don’t wear white clothing unless you really like wearing polka-dots.

Photo: The top of a small square plastic pot filled with soil. The top of the soil is covered with perlite, which looks like small off-white irregular shaped styrofoam pellets. Growing out of the perlite are a handfull of cactus sprouts, bright green and covered with long thin spines
Dragon fruit seedlings
Photo: Cross section of a dragon fruit. It is circular with a thick red skin and a white inner area speckled with lots of little black dots (seeds).
Cross section of a dragon fruit

Some of the easiest fruit seeds to grow come from dragon fruit; there are hundreds of seeds in each fruit and they sprout quickly into pretty little cactus plants.  As they get larger you’ll learn that they are indeed cactus plants, and very prickly–handle with gloves!  Other sources of cactus plants are also found in the grocery stores: red cactus fruit contains lots of seeds, or you can just set a cactus “pad” upright in a pot of soil and it will quickly grow roots.

Some seeds like dates and mangoes may take a month or more to germinate, but date palms and mango trees make lovely house plants.  You can speed the process by soaking large seeds overnight before planting them, and then always plant them as soon as possible; freshness is important.  You can also grow roots (rhizomes) like ginger and turmeric just by putting small root buds in a pot with the top barely showing.

Photo: Cross sections of a passion fruit. The fruit has been sliced in half. There is a thick white skin and the inside is full little black seeds with a gelatinous yellow coat.
Passion fruit
Photo: Passion flower.
Passion flower

It’s a habit that’s hard to break.  Once you have a few plants growing, you may find yourself taking home even more exotic choices just to see what will happen when you plant the seeds.  Lychees, guavas, quenepas, passion fruits, and ginger roots may end up on your regular grocery list.  Growing plants like this can be fun for kids of any age–and the bonus is that you also bring home delicious fruit!

Resources

My List

Websites

Books

 

 

 

 

Invasive Species

The Princess Tree: A Wolf in Sheep’s Clothing?

by Carole Liantonio, Warwick Senior Master Gardener Volunteer

Photo: A princess tree in full bloom. The tree towers over the other trees and is covered with light purple flowers.
Paulownia tomentosa

The princess or empress tree (Paulownia tomentosa) is a fast growing shade tree that was as introduced to North America from Asia via Europe in the 1800s. As it is a beautiful tree with many desirable characteristics, the princess tree is widely available commercially and frequently planted.

Let’s take a look at why people are planting it and why that is problematic.

The Good News:

Photo: A wide sidewalk path (~20 ft wide) lined with benches on both sides. Behind each row of benches is a row of towering princess trees. It looks like the photo was taken in early spring as the trees have no leaves on them, but it appears that they are covered in buds just about to open.
A walkway lined with princess trees

The princess tree is one of the fastest-growing trees in the Northeastern United States.  It can grow 10 to 20 feet in a single year, reaching 80 to 100 feet in a decade. This explosive growth is accomplished by pulling carbon dioxide out of the air more efficiently than any other woody plant in the world. Photosynthesizing beyond the call of duty could be a huge help in sequestering carbon and assisting in our struggles with climate change.

Photo. A field planted with rows of princess trees. The trees look to be about 1 foot in diameter.
A stand of planted princess trees

In addition to extra-efficient carbon sequestration, the wood from the princess tree has many uses. It is lightweight, like balsa, but has a very high strength-to-weight ratio. It can be carved, holds nails and screws without splitting, and doesn’t warp or change shape when dried. It has been used for surfboards and kayaks, chests, boxes, clogs, musical instruments, and touring skis, and it’s burned to make charcoal for sketching. The wood is highly prized and worth more per linear foot than black walnut, oak, or maple. It is not surprising that in Japan, where the tree is native, a princess tree was traditionally planted at the birth of a daughter to ultimately be used for her wedding dowry!

Photo: A close-up of a cluster of trumpet white and light purple flowers hanging from the end of a tree branch.
Princess tree flowers

The princess tree is also ascetically pleasing. In late spring, it is covered with large clusters of purple to white trumpet-shaped blooms.  These foxglove-like blossoms emit a honeysuckle-like fragrance. Then a few weeks after bloom the tree is covered with large heart-shaped leaves.

Does this sound too good to be true?

The Bad News:

Photo: A freshly disturbed area of soil with a few small weeds and a large princess tree seedling with its large heart shaped leaves.
Princess tree seedling in a disturbed area

Despite all of its favorable qualities, the princess tree also causes significant problems.  Each of the lovely flowers it produces contain thousands of tiny winged wind dispersed seeds.  When they land in disturbed areas with plenty of sun and good drainage, such as roadsides, old fields, forest edges, or disturbed riverbanks, they will germinate and thrive.  This propensity to establish in disturbed areas displaces native species and alters the ecological community.  Once established, the princess tree competes with native plants for nutrients and water. It also produces a dense shade making it difficult for native plants to grow underneath it.  And because the roots of the princess tree also grow at an incredible rate, they can burst apart foundations and walls.

Fifteen states, including Pennsylvania and Connecticut, have listed the princess tree as  invasive and/or have laws regulating its sale.   Although not regulated as an invasive species in New York State, the princess tree has a NY Invasive rank of “moderate” meaning that care needs to be taken to remove it from natural areas, and that it should not be used in parks and preserves with significant environmental value.  In our area, the Lower Hudson Partnership for Regional Invasive Species Management (LHPRISM) considers the princess tree as “established”.

Photo: The side of a rocky hill with irregular outcroppings covered with princess tree saplings. This photo was taken at a time of year when the trees are bare.
An infestation of princess trees on a rocky slope

Once a princess tree establishes itself, it is very hard to control. It is a resilient tree that reproduces asexually through root suckers that are capable of growing up to 15 feet in a single year.  When trying to remove a princess tree, if any root fragment is left in the ground, the tree will re-establish itself very quickly. For this reason, mowing small seedlings is not a viable method for removal. Unless the stump is chemically treated, re-sprouting can also occur when large trees are cut down.

A Compromise?

Tree farmers and specialty nurseries are currently exploring princess tree hybrids, which have many of the attributes of Paulownia tomentosa but have not yet been found to be as invasive. They include Paulownia shantong (P. tomentosa × P. fortunei) and Paulownia elongata. With any luck, these hybrid species will beautify the spring landscape without breaking the pavement or becoming a royal pain in the neck!

Identifying the Princess Tree in the Field

Learn More

Paulownia tomentosa – Lower Hudson PRISM

Paulownia tomentosa – North Carolina State Extension

Princess Tree – National Invasive Species Information Center, USDA

The Fastest Growing Trees in the Northeast – Shelterwood Forest Farm

Note: The article ‘The Fastest Growing Trees in the Northeast’ incorrectly states that Paulownia trees such as the princess tree use C4 carbon fixation. Learn more about this common misconception.

Uncategorized

Tree of the Month: Snags

by Sharon Lunden, Goshen Master Gardener Volunteer

Photo: A dead tree broken off about 10-15 up; very jagged at the top. It has a large hole in it about two-thirds of the way up the tree. It is standing in the middle of a forest full of trees putting just starting to put on their spring foliage. There is very little undergrowth and most trees are quite skinny.Did you know a dead or dying tree is called a snag and that snags serve a vital purpose in the ecosystem? I never seriously considered that until attending a webinar presented by Gillian Martin on The Life of A Dying Tree and was fascinated to learn the many benefits of keeping a snag in your yard and wooded areas. I was curious to know the source of their nickname which, according to etymonline.com is a derivative of an ancient word:

snag (n.)1570s, “stump of a tree, branch,” of Scandinavian origin, compare Old Norse snagi “clothes peg,” snaga “a kind of ax,” snag-hyrndr “snag-cornered, with sharp points.”

You can almost picture a dead tree as a clothespin, and if you played in the woods as a child, you likely noticed or even tripped over the jagged edges of a fallen tree. Fallen trees or parts of trees are called logs, and also provide many benefits to insects and other wildlife.

Photo: Jagged tree stump with a large white overlapping cluster of fungus growing in a stripe up the front of it. The ground in front of the stump is littered with dead leaves, and behind the stump us green leaves of forest understory.
Phlebia tremellosa, a wood-decay fungus

Some of the smallest beneficiaries of a snag are fungi, which begin to break down the dead material. Fungi then become a meal for insects. Snags provide a home for a great many spiders; spider webs are made of a strong silk which is utilized like duct tape in nest building by birds such as the ruby-throated hummingbird. Raptors like the bald eagle utilize dead branches and sticks for building their nests.

Photo: The trunk of a tree with three large holes in a line right down the middle of it. The wholes are oblong and several inches deep.
Cavities created by a pileated woodpecker

Snags provide a home for boring insects. No, insects are not boring, just ask an entomologist! Certain ants, beetles and other invertebrates bore holes to live in, and in turn become dinner for birds like woodpeckers, who also nest in cavities in snags. There are at least twenty cavity nesting woodpeckers and eighty types of cavity nesting birds. The holes that woodpeckers drill in snags provide 47% of the nesting cavities for other birds and creatures who do not do their own excavating: ducks, owls, bats, falcons and over forty song birds, as well as small mammals like squirrels, raccoons and martens, and larger mammals like bear and fox. Thirty percent of our native bees nest in tree cavities!

Reptiles will use downed trees as a place to sun themselves, and many creatures will seek cover from the sun or predators under a log.

Photo: Immature bald eagle perched on a branch of a tall dead tree. The bald eagle is brown with yellow feet and beak and yellow plumage on the top of its head. Behind the tree is a shorter pine tree and blue sky.
Immature bald eagle perched on a dead snag

Since snags have no foliage, they provide an excellent perch with unobstructed views for raptors on the hunt for dinner. The hard wood provides an anvil where birds and small mammals can crack open nuts and seeds or bugs and beetles with a hard exoskeleton. Squirrels and some birds will store food in the cracks and crevices provided in decaying trees.

Logs left on the ground also help prevent runoff, absorbing water and covering the soil.

Of course, in the forest, dead and dying trees pose no threat of injury or damage, however in your own yard you will want to assess the risks of leaving a dying tree in place. Pay close attention and you can tell when a tree is on its way out – woodpeckers are a telltale sign, as are cavities developing below dead limbs.

Photo: Close up of an ash tree in which the bark has fallen off leaving a light tan color area
Woodpecker damage to an ash tree infested with emerald ash borer

A hard snag is a recently dead tree; soft snags have lost all bark and are often already home to woodpeckers and other creatures. As much as possible, retain a snag for as long as possible, however only if it can safely fall over in place, so snags close to your home and other structures likely will need to be removed, or possibly trimmed to remain in place for a longer period. Take the weight of snow into consideration; snow can bring down branches in a hurry. If the snag is surrounded by other healthy trees which prevent it from falling down completely, or near an area where it can fall to the ground without causing damage, consider leaving it in place and allow nature to take its course. Before removing a snag, be aware of what may already be living inside. When taking down a snag, is beneficial to leave the material in the general area, if you are able. A good arborist will be able to assess the possibilities for any snag on your property.

Photo: Large tree in a grassy field with multiple defects, including cracks, decay, dead branches.
Dying Tree

Dead and dying trees offer benefits that live trees cannot and enhance the diversity of wooded areas and the forest. Next time you are out in your yard or in the woods for a hike, look for snags. Observe them closely and consider what they are offering to the surrounding area – hopefully you will find a new appreciation for them.

For more information:

The Cavity Conservation Initiative

The Dying Tree: Nature’s Legacy – Gillian Martin

What is a Snag? – Tree First Arboriculture

To locate a certified arborist:

Trees are Good – International Society of Arboriculture

Educational Opportunities, Horticulture History

Celebrating Fredrick Law Olmsted

by Karen McCarthy, Newburgh Master Gardener Volunteer

Logo: Olmsted 200, Celebrating Parks for All People (The 0s in the number 200 are trees.)Last year, 2022, marked the 200th anniversary of the birth of the father of American landscape architecture, social reformer, and author Fredrick Law Olmsted. For Olmsted 200 events were planned by the National Association of Olmsted  Parks, The Garden Clubs of America and many local garden groups. This year, the celebration continues.

Photo: Sepia photo of Olmsted in 1855
Frederick Law Olmsted in 1855

Olmsted was born to a family of wealthy merchants in Connecticut over 200 years ago on April 26, 1822.  He had a varied work career, eventually becoming passionate about gardens after a walking tour of the British Isles in 1850.  Exchanging ideas with Andrew Jackson Downing of Newburgh, New York, and his business partner, the English-born architect, Calvert Vaux was a turning point for Olmsted.  At the time Downing was the foremost writer on gardening and a promoter of public parks in America.   These men rejected the geometric gardens with formal, compartmentalized flower beds that conveyed the idea of man over nature.  They proposed instead the English garden style that had a more natural, informal flow of plants.  Rather than “conquer” they wished to “enhance” the beauty of a site.  They believed that free, open public parks could be a healing space, could combat the stress of the growing industrial cities and “civilize” individuals in a new nation.  Such parks would allow for healthy recreation and the quiet contemplation of nature.

Map of Central Park circa 1879
Map of Central Park circa 1879

Following the tragic death of Downing in 1852 in a steamship fire, Olmsted and Vaux teamed up to put these then innovative ideas into the many parks they designed, starting with Central Park in Manhattan.  Ponds were dug, swamps were drained, areas were flattened for open meadows, hills were built up and boulders were exposed or moved to make everything look “natural”, as if it had always been there.  Meandering pathways and carriage roads led up to views of informal gardens or groupings of trees, tying the park together. The design of plantings created an illusion of space and removed the visitor from the sights and sounds of the bustling city.  When possible, trees formed a natural periphery instead of fences.

A major part of the American park concept was “communitiveness”, a term Olmsted coined, meaning that the park was to serve the needs of the community. Parks were not intended only for the rich with carriages, as so often they had been in Europe.  Parks were planned as a democratic space where all society could meet and feel welcome. This “social democracy” of American parks is reflected in ”Parks for All People”, the theme of Olmsted 200.

Photo of an engraving of Olmsted in 1893. It is a profile of Omsted sitting wearing a dark jacket. He is an old man, bald on the top of his head with long white bear.
Fredrick Law Olmsted in 1893

In his lifetime Olmsted worked on some 500 commissions, including 100 parks,  200 estates and 40 academic and other institutions. Besides Central Park, Olmsted is associated with Prospect Park in Brooklyn, as well as parks in Boston, Albany, Philadelphia, Buffalo, Montreal, Louisville and so many other cities.  He was also a prolific writer although he claimed not to enjoy that part of his legacy.

During the Civil War Olmsted served as the Director of the U.S. Sanitary Commission, overseeing the health and medical supplies for the Union Army.  Much later in his career Olmsted worked as the site planner in the Columbian Exposition of 1893 in Chicago.  His work emphasized the importance of collaboration between engineers, architects, and landscape architects.

Photo: Various types of trees including a weeping willow on the grassy bank of a pond. The pond extends to the edge of the photo. Half of what you can see is reflecting the trees, the other half is covered with green algae.
Downing Park – Newburgh, NY

Central Park in Manhattan, designed in 1857, was Olmsted’s first park.  His last design was Downing Park in Newburgh, in 1895, also done with Calvert Vaux, Vaux’s son, Downing Vaux and Olmsted’s stepson, John Charles Olmsted.  This small (35 acres) park, set on a former farm acquired by the City of Newburgh, is the only park designed for free as a memorial to Olmsted and Vaux’s acknowledged mentor, Andrew Jackson Downing.  It includes all the features of Central Park in miniature:  a water feature, meandering pathways and roads that lead to views of the Hudson River, hills, boulders, informal gardens and a “great lawn” for informal recreation and community events.  In recent years Downing Park has been a “stand in” for Central Park in several films.

Photo: Trees on the grassy bank of a pond. The trees are varying shades of green with one dark purple colored tree. A bright blue sky with several white clouds takes up the top half of the photo. The runs to the bottom of the photo and the trees and sky are reflected in it.
Downing Park – Newburgh, NY

Once maintained by 30 gardeners, Downing Park now is a completely volunteer effort.  The Garden Club of Orange and Dutchess Counties has been working with the Downing Park Planning Committee through a grant to restore the area of the amphitheater by trimming healthy trees and removing dying trees. A thousand daffodils were planted by adults and school children in the fall of 2021. These daffodils bloomed in time for the Olmsted 200 Celebration in Downing Park on Saturday, April 23, 2022.

The celebration continues, learn more about Olmsted and upcoming events that celebrate his legacy.

Learn More

Upcoming Events

Webinars

Thursday, February 9, 2023 @ 6:00 pm

Tuesday, April 25, 2023 @ 2:00 pm

Sunday, June 4, 2023

Guided Tours and Exhibition
Out in the Garden

Pocket Gardening for Small Spaces

by Marion Loiola, Highland Mills Master Gardener Volunteer

Hollowed out stump being used as a container to grow fern, dead nettle, Tiarella sp. and Brunnera sp.
Pocket garden in hollowed out stump (Brunnera sp., dead nettle, fern, and Tiarella sp.)

As February comes to an end and we get closer to spring, I am noticing small, underutilized areas in my yard that could use some aesthetic enhancement.  Perhaps you have a bare spot, a barren corner, or a rocky slope in your yard that you could dress up with a few plants.  If you do, it might be time to develop this un-gardened area by creating a pocket garden!  Pocket gardens provide an opportunity to become creative with landscape design by adding plantings in small otherwise unusable areas.  They are a wonderful place for flowers, herbs, succulents, and vegetables.  They can be used to add color and texture and attract birds and pollinators.  Once established a good pocket garden will look like it always belonged there.

Photo: Baskets of herbs hanging a wire grid in front of a wall creating a balcony herb garden
Balcony herb pocket garden

There are endless possibilities in terms of how to create a pocket garden.  Determine key focal points that will work well with your design.  Perhaps add a focal point using a dwarf conifer surrounded by annuals or vegetables that change each year.  If your pocket garden is near the kitchen or back door you may want to plant edible herbs.  Whether planted in the ground or a container, herbs are can add color, texture, attract pollinators, and/or provide you with delicious flavors for cooking.  On your deck or patio, you can create a privacy screen using a vertical pocket garden made by planting vining plants in a container and training them to a trellis.  If you are using raised beds in your pocket garden, you can use various border shapes to enhance your design.  When using containers, make sure to chose one that adds to the aesthetic of the garden.  Succulents can be used to enhance a rocky area.  A great way to grow vegetables in an otherwise unusable space is growing them in straw bales.  You can also pair vegetables with ornamentals in a pocket garden.  Whatever you do, make sure that the pocket garden fits the space you have.

Photo: Small plant with tiny light purple flowers growing in in the corner at the base of a ciment step
Tiny pocket garden (Linaria cymbalaria)

Once you decide where you want to place your pocket garden, make sure you note the lighting, drainage, and any other environmental conditions that may affect your plants.  Before planting it is always a good idea to get your soil tested so you properly amend the soil to meet the needs of your plants.  If you are using containers, you will want to use potting soil as opposed to garden soil.  Don’t pack the potting soil too tightly and remember to water and fertilize as needed.

Plant choice is key.  Research your plants and group those with similar needs together.  When possible, use low-maintenance native plants which will need less water and have fewer pest issues.  Stay away from aggressive plants that will take over the space and impede the growth of other plants in the garden. Look for plants that will remain interesting throughout year and think about how to use your pocket garden to attract wildlife such as birds and pollinators.

Photo: Large bright purple blooms of Clematis 'Doctor Ruppel' climing up a wooden trellis
Using vertical space can enhance your pocket garden (Clematis ‘Doctor Ruppel’)

The design you use for your pocket garden is up to you.  Take advantage of vertical gardening, container gardening, small, raised beds, and other space efficient techniques. Don’t be afraid to experiment with various sizes, textures, and colors. Soften your hardscape, create a personal space where you that you can relax and find joy.

As we get ready for spring, think about how you can brighten up your space with a pocket garden or two.  Get creative, pick a theme, make a statement, use plants with different sizes, textures, and colors but most of all, have fun!

Uncategorized

The Soil Will Save Us

by Joe Gregoire, Warwick Senior Master Gardener Volunteer

Global atmospheric carbon dioxide concentrations (CO2) in parts per million (ppm) for the past 800,000 years. The peaks and valleys track ice ages (low CO2) and warmer interglacials (higher CO2). During these cycles, CO2 was never higher than 300 ppm. On the geologic time scale, the increase (orange dashed line) looks virtually instantaneous. For decades, we’ve been involved in a global debate about the warming of the planet and the resulting climate change that impacts us all.  From heat waves that fuel drought and wildfires to extreme cold that shortens growing seasons and puts food production at risk across the planet, the increasing unpredictability of climate has an impact on the lives of billions of people each year, making the debate over the causes of climate change less and less relevant.  It is like debating over the cause of a house fire, while the house is burning all around us.  While opinions continue to be polarized on the topic of human or natural causes of climate change, the science behind what is increasing the temperature of the planet is clear.  The increase in parts per million of carbon dioxide is linked to the continuing trend in rising global temperatures.

A vegetable garden with a combination of cabbage surrounded by small yellow and orange flowers and dark purple leafy greensAs an avid gardener, managing the variability of the weather is a constant part of the experience when growing food and I regularly reflect on the global phenomenon and what I can do to protect my crops from the risks that nature can bring.  Floating row covers protect my plants from frost damage in spring and fall.  A three inch layer of compost mulch over my garden beds retains moisture in the soil and captures rainfall like a sponge, helping my plants persist through dry spells.  And shading my garden soil with a canopy of growing plants, provides my plants with a microclimate of cooler soil temperatures during the hottest days of summer.  I’ve come to appreciate that there are actions I can take in my own garden that can increase my plant health and the resulting yield from my crops at harvest time.  I’ve come to believe that we can take action to develop solutions that work with nature as the best path to follow in my gardening pursuits.

Book Cover: The Soil will Save Us: How Scientists, Farmers, and Foodies are Healing the Soil to Save the Planet by Kristin Ohlson / Image f a maple tree sapling howing the roots grwoing beneath the soilIn her book, The Soil Will Save Us – How Scientists, Farmers, and Foodies are Healing the Soil to Save the Planet, author Kristin Ohlson delivers a powerful message on the subject of climate change.  Looking past the debate over whether humanity is the cause of global warming or not, Ohlson dives deep into the science of soil health and its connection to the carbon cycle at a macro level.  Through her travels around the world researching the topic, Ohlson finds numerous best practices in soil science, farming and ranching practices, and the food community that drives the demand for sustainable agriculture.  She successfully builds the case for humanity as a solution to climate change, working with nature to reduce carbon from the atmosphere.

Diagram of the Soil Food WebAt the root of the solution to global warming, is the soil beneath our feet.  And the healthier the soil, the better.  Healthy soil is more than just its composition and the nutrients it contains.  Healthy soil is healthy because of the life within in it, in the form of microscopic bacteria, fungi, and insects which comprise the soil food web.  A virtuous cycle of carbon capture from the atmosphere into the soil, the soil food web and our understanding of it is emerging as a keystone solution to reducing CO2 levels in the atmosphere.

New research sheds light on the fascinating communication process that exists between growing plants and the microbial life in the soil with plants “signaling” their need for various nutrients by attracting microbial life to their root zone using exuded sugars created through photosynthesis.  While we’ve known that photosynthesis enables plants to produce their own food by transforming sunlight and atmospheric CO2 into carbon sugars that feed growth and release oxygen back into the atmosphere, new research is showing that these carbon sugars are used by plants to grow the soil life surrounding their roots at the same time, by exuding sugars into the soil through their roots.  These sugars in the soil attract beneficial soil bacteria and fungi that consume the sugars and grow in number as a result.  Nematodes and other microbial life then feed on the growing bacteria and fungi populations and release plant soluble nutrients through their waste into the plant root zone, like microscopic herds of cattle dropping their manure for the benefit of the plants in a pasture.  And the extensive microscopic network of mycelium that are the living fungi in the soil, trade those same root exudate sugars with moisture and minerals they extract from far beyond the reach of plant roots.  All of this exudate sugar, carbon that was once atmospheric CO2, remains in soil that is undisturbed and kept covered by mulch or growing plants and protected from the oxidation that would combine it with oxygen and release it back into the atmosphere as CO2.

What is Soil Health - Link to Interactive GraphicWith this growing understanding of soil life and the benefit of carbon capture that is inherent in the natural process of the soil food web, Ohlson uncovers a growing movement of collaboration between environmentalists and agriculturalists that, not long ago, was an adversarial relationship.  Traditional environmentalist attitudes called for humanity to leave nature alone is evolving into a movement that sees the potential for humanity to work with nature in a beneficial way.  And traditional agriculturalist attitudes that look at nature as something that needs to be tamed and controlled through tilling, chemical fertility and pest elimination and monocropping for production efficiency, is evolving into a movement that sees natural processes as a solution to sustainable food production and increased yields.  And as these two once opposing movements evolve, they are coming together in collaborative efforts to protect nature through the use of agriculture that can have rapid benefits to thousands and thousands of acres of cropland around the world.

A row of corn plants growing between rows of bean plants
Field corn – dry beans intercropping system

Intensive grazing of livestock using electric fencing to corral livestock into a tight herd and practicing rotational grazing through managing the movement of these herds over a pastureland, replicates the natural behavior of herding livestock that evolved to graze in tight herds as protection from predators that no longer pose a natural threat.  This intensive grazing behavior is what created the deep soils that covered the Great Plains prior to European settlement and that were blown away with the ravages of the dust bowl.  And a movement away from vast acres of monocrop corn and soil bean production toward no-till multispecies crop production and cover cropping, accelerates the introduction of carbon sugars into the soil food web.  For an increasing number of practicing growers, this is increasing their yields, lowering their costs, and restoring the moisture retention, erosion protection, and soil health of their land.  All the while, acting as a viable solution to reducing CO2 levels within the atmosphere.

If you find this subject interesting and would like to learn more about how our daily food choices can play an active role in collaborating with nature as a solution to the global warming problem, then I highly recommend taking time during these last days of winter to read this book.

Gardening Knowledge

Is Broccoli Man-Made?

by Joan Kean, Pine Bush Master Gardener Volunteer

Head of broccoli growing on a broccoli plantIs broccoli man-made?  This was a question recently posed to me by a newcomer to the Community Garden that I frequent.  I had no idea as to the correct answer, so I told the gentleman that I would have to research the topic and would share the results with him as soon as possible.  What follows in this article are the results of my research.

While there are many edible plants that can be foraged in the wild (i.e. asparagus, berries, onions, etc.), broccoli is not one of them.  Broccoli is in fact a human invention.  It is not known exactly how many years ago broccoli was created, but it is believed that early varieties of this plant were cultivated in the Mediterranean region during the Roman Empire in the 6th century BCE.  After its creation over 2000 years ago, broccoli continued to be improved through artificial selection in parts of what is now Italy.  Then in 16th century broccoli was introduced in other parts of Europe which eventually lead to cultivation in those areas.  Although broccoli was brought over the United States in the 17th century it was not grown commercially until the 1920s.

Drawing of Brassica oleracea highlighting th leaf, flower, and root structure
A wild variety of Brassica oleracea

Broccoli is a derivative of the Brassica oleracea, also known as wild cabbage or wild mustard.  The leaves, stems and flowering heads of wild mustard are edible, but bitter.  In an effort to improve its palatability, farmers identified characteristics in some wild mustard plants that they wanted to keep and planted seeds from those plants, gradually emphasizing certain traits. This process is a type of genetic modification known as selective breeding or artificial selection.

Selective breeding is an extensive and lengthy process.  Plants with favorable characteristics such as larger or tastier fruits and/or greater yield are propagated.  Propagation is not only achieved by seed from the desired plants, but also from asexual propagation from cuttings, grafting, layering, etc.   Eventually a plant is produced that has the desired characteristics and when reproduced retains those unique characteristics.   This new plant is considered a cultivar and has a genetic makeup that differs from the wild type of the plant.

The obvious disadvantage of selective breeding is that it is a very long and laborious process, requiring many years to obtain the desired results.  Yet selective breeding is an important process as it is not only used to improve taste and yield, but also to obtain plants that are more resistant to disease and pests as well as withstand harsh environmental conditions, such as low temperatures, drought, wind, and salinity.

Diagram: HIghlighting the parts of the wild mustard plant (Brassica oleracea) that were selectively breed to create cabbage (terminal leaf bud), kale (leaves), broccoli (flower buds/stem, and cauliflower (flower buds)Many of the vegetables included in the Brassiceae family are not actually different species, just cultivars of wild mustard.  Plants with a large terminal bud were bred to produce cabbage.  Plants with desirable leaves eventually became kale and collard greens.  Brussels sprouts were developed from plants with large lateral buds while those with larger stems became kohlrabi.  In the case of broccoli and cauliflower, the flowers were the focus.

Just as broccoli is man-made, all the fruits and vegetables you see in the grocery store today are all a result of thousands of years of genetic manipulation.

Learn More

Crop Breeding – Crop Science Society of America
A great primer on plant breeding – what it is, how it is done, how it affects you.

How to Make a GMO – Science in the News – Harvard University
A great primer on how genetically modified organisms are created using genetic engineering.

VIDEO: Everything is Broccoli – Science in Real Life
A bit technical, but highly entertaining and educational video!

Wild Greens – Academy of Nutrients and Dietetics
Nutritional information about several wild greens that you can forage in your own backyard.

 

Gardening Knowledge

Holiday Plants: A Horticultural View

By Madelene Knaggs, New Windsor Master Gardener Volunteer

The holiday season has come and gone, but let’s take a minute to look back at some of the plants that played such a prominent role in our festivities.  Whether we observed Christmas, Chanukkah, Kwanzaa, or the Winter Solstice, trees, herbs and plants were most likely a part of the celebration.  Much has been written about the cultural aspects and origins of the plant life used as part of our celebration and seasonal decoration.  This article will focus on the geographic origins, growing environment, and propagation of our holiday flora.

Evergreens

Photo: Close up of needles on a pine tree
Pine needles

Christmas and Winter Solstice celebrations throughout the world use evergreens for both decorative and symbolic reasons.  The “Yule” or “Christmas” tree is generally a decorated evergreen conifer tree, such as a pine, fir, cedar, juniper, or spruce. The tradition began with ancient civilizations in the Middle East, Asia, and Europe. The modern custom developed in 16th century Germany and became popular in other European nations and North America during the 19th century. The tree’s decorations and lights symbolized stellar objects, spirits of the dead, religious events, important figures, and sometimes provided edible treats.

Photo: A field of short conical shaped white pine trees
Christmas tree farm

An evergreen is a plant which has green foliage throughout the year and in most colloquial references it applies to coniferous evergreens such as pine, spruce, and fir.  Although many characteristics can be used to distinguish one coniferous evergreen from another, let’s concentrate on the needles. Pine trees are easy to distinguish as their needles are bundled in sheaths of two, three, or five needles.  If the tree has single needles along the branch, it’s a good chance that it is a fir or a spruce.  Fir needles are flat and do not roll between your fingers while spruce needles have four sides and rolls easily between your fingers.

Although some people may go into the woods to find and cut a tree for their celebration, most trees are commercially grown.  According to the National Christmas Tree Association it can take anywhere between 4 and 15 years to grow the typical 6-7 foot tree, but the average is 7 years.  Spruce and fir are the most popular because of their shape, needle retention, and fragrance.  Trees are harvested in the fall when temperatures begin to drop and trees are full hydrated.  With proper “watering” a cut tree can last up to month or more indoors and provide festive beauty for the early winter season. So it is possible that you are still enjoying your Christmas tree now.

Holly

Drawing of a wreath made of hollyHolly (Ilex spp.) provides deep green and rich red color for the winter season.  There are many species of holly including our native American holly (Ilex opaca) and common holly (llex aquifolium) which is native to parts of Europe, Asia, and Africa.  In ancient cultures, the holly tree symbolized the waning sun which leads to the winter solstice.  Holly was used to create wreathes to decorate homes.  Placing a ring of holly on doors originated in Ireland. Holly decorations were believed to bring protection and good luck to the home’s residents in the coming year.

Dark green leaves on an American Holly Tree with bright red berries
Ilex opaco

Hollies have simple leaves that are arranged alternately on the branches.  Most hollies have leaves with wavy margins tipped with spines.  Although most hollies are evergreens, some species like the native deciduous holly (Ilex decidua) lose their leaves in the fall.  Hollies have small white or green flowers that are often overlooked, but their bright red berries provide beautiful winter color and are an important source of food for many bird species.

A large 20 foot conical shaped holly tree
Holly tree

Most holly species are dioecious meaning that they have separate male and female plants.  In order to produce seeds, you’ll need one of each.  And if you want to have red berries, make sure you get a female plant.  Hollies can be a great addition to your home garden.  They do best when grown in full sun to part shade and prefer moist, well-drained, slightly acidic soil.

Poinsettias

Photo: a close-up of the bright red leaves of a poinsettia surrounding the small yellow flowers
Small yellow flowers of a poinsettia

Poinsettias (Euphorbia pulcherrima) add color and brightness to our winter décor.  The colorful ‘petals’ of the poinsettia are actually not petals at all, but modified leaves known as bracts.  Poinsettias are natives of Mexico and Central America where they are called ‘Flor de Nochebuena’ or the Christmas Eve Flower.  Here in the United States, they are known as poinsettias after Joel Roberts Poinsett, a diplomat and amateur botanist, who introduced the plant into the country in 1828.

Poinsettias grow in temperate coastal climates and will suffer damage if exposed to temperatures below 50°F.  The ideal indoor growing temperature for your poinsettias is between 65°F and 70°F and they should be placed in a south, east, or west facing window that receives bright daylight.

Bright red 'leaves' of poinsettiasPoinsettias are an attractive green plant most of the year and come late spring they can be brought outside and either kept in containers or transplanted into a part-sun garden that gets four to five hours of sun a day.  Getting your green poinsettia to change color for the holiday season is an onerous task and requires excluding light from the plant for period of time while still keeping the plant healthy.  Click here for a complete guide to year-round poinsettia care.  Good luck if you decide to try and get your poinsettias to re-bloom this coming winter!

Mistletoe

Photo: Large tree barren of leaves but covered with sevral large green balls of mistletoeMistletoe has long been associated with winter holiday traditions and is the common name for several families of poisonous, evergreen parasitic plants.  In nature mistletoe can been found attached to and penetrating the branches of trees and shrubs alike.  According to Norse legends, couples who met under hanging mistletoe were obliged to kiss. Here in North America mistletoe is commonly used as a Christmas decoration and is generally a plant from the genus Phoradendron.

Mistletoe (Phoradendron spp.) produces small berries that are a favorite wintertime snack for birds.  The seeds then pass through the bird and are excreted high up in the trees where the birds roost.  Its seeds are sticky to keep them from falling to the ground, where they would be unable to sprout and develop into mature plants.

Christmas Cactus

Photo: Bright pink flower of a Christmas catcus The Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera x buckleyi) is a hybrid bred from plants native to the coastal mountains of Brazil.  This popular holiday plant has beautiful blooms in early winter.  Although full sunlight is beneficial during fall and winter, bright sun during the summer months can make plants look pale and yellow. Christmas cacti depend upon shorter day lengths and cooler temperatures to set their flower buds.  Once flower buds are set do not let temperatures rise above 90°F or the buds will drop. The holiday cacti are tolerant of dry, slightly under-watered conditions and tend to thrive when pot bound.  When properly tended, this blooming succulent can live for a 100 years!

Salvia

Photo: Branching strucutre of the salvia with green leaves and spikes of flowers
Salvia fruticosa

The salvia plant (Salvia fruticosa) also known as Greek sage is native to the eastern Mediterranean.  Its structure resembles the description of the menorah found in the book of Exodus and is likely the floral candidate after which the menorah was modeled.  Salvias are members of the mint family and have square stems and are usually strongly aromatic with leaves rich in essential oils.

If you want to add a salvia plant to your garden, there are many species to choose from.  There are both annuals and perennials and come in a wide range of sizes and colors.  Ornamental salvias produce beautiful flower spikes that attract a variety of pollinators with their sweet fragrance and colorful blooms.

Corn

Photo: Multi-colored cornCorn is one of the seven symbols used during Kwanzaa celebrations.  Muhindi (moo-heen’-dee) means corn and represents children and the future.  Corn was first domesticated by peoples in southern Mexico about 10,000 years ago and it is believed to have been derived from a wild grass known as teosinte (Zea mays parviglumis).

When most people think of corn they think of sweet corn, but most corn grown in the United States is actually field corn which unlike sweet corn, is harvested when the kernels are hard and dry.  Field corn is used as livestock feed and used to make corn starch, whiskey, oils, margarines, and bio-fuels.  The United States is the largest corn producer in the world and it is grown in most parts of the country including Alaska and Hawaii. Corn does best with warm, sunny growing weather (75–86°F) and moderate rains.

As you can see, plants play an important part in holiday celebrations and have very diverse horticultural origins and applications.  As you continue to enjoy this winter season, think about planting or propagating these symbols as a way to personalize your holiday celebration next winter!