By Gerda Krogslund, Middletown Master Gardener Volunteer
This article appeared in the April 2021 Issue of Gardening in Orange County.
Newly hatched European pine sawfly larvae
In New York State, there are six species of sawflies that are common pests of pines. Sawfly larvae are caterpillar-like and usually feed in groups and strip one branch of needles after another. They prefer old needles, but turn to new needles when food is scarce. The European pine sawfly (Neodiprion sertifer) is one of the most destructive in New York State. It prefers red and Scotch pine, however it will also attack other pines in the area.
Life Cycle
Adult European pine sawfly
Sawfly adults resemble large houseflies but are actually closely related to wasps and sometimes referred to as ‘stingerless wasps.’ Females European pine sawflies have a serrated ovipositor, a tube-like organ used for egg laying, which enables them to saw little slits in the needles to lay their eggs leaving a row of brown scars on the needles. The eggs overwinter and may start to hatch as early as April or as late as mid-May. The larvae feed in colonies for several weeks. When the larvae are fully grown, they drop to the ground and pupate. Then in September adults emerge and mate. Then the females use their saw-like ovipositor to lay 6-8 eggs per pine needle.
Egg scars
Management
When European pine sawfly eggs hatch birds and rodents help decrease the number of larvae on your pines, but sometimes additional management is needed. You can remove larvae by hand or prune out infested branches. Put larvae and branches in a pail of soapy water.
If you chose to use an insecticide, keep in mind that as with most insects, sawflies are more susceptible to insecticides when they are small. There are horticultural oils and insecticidal soap labeled for control of sawflies. If you chose to use an insecticide make sure you read the entire label and follow all of the instructions including the use of personal protective equipment. The label is the law! And remember sawflies are NOT caterpillars so Bt, a go to organic pesticide for many home gardeners, will not work on sawflies.
Fun Facts
Sawfly larvae are often mistaken as caterpillars, but it is quite easy to tell the difference if you know what to look for.
Both caterpillars and sawflies have three sets of true legs (six legs in total). These are located near the head. After the true legs are a series of prolegs. Caterpillars have five or fewer pairs of abdominal prolegs while sawfly larvae have six or more pairs of abdominal prolegs.
European Pine Sawfly Larvae
Look at the picture above. You can see three pairs of true legs. (The first pair is a bit hard to see; it is between the head and the pair of true legs sticking straight up in the air.) After the true legs there is a gap and then seven pairs of abdominal prolegs. There is also a pair of anal prolegs at the very end of the body. Since seven is more than five, this must be a sawfly larvae.
Zebra caterpillar (Melanchra picta)
Look at the picture above. You can see three pairs of true legs right behind the head. Then there is a gap followed by four pairs of abdominal prolegs. There is also a pair of anal prolegs at the very end of the body. Since four is less than five, this must be a caterpillar.
By Gerda Krogslund, Middletown Senior Master Gardener Volunteer
This article appeared in the April 2021 Issue of Gardening in Orange County.
It is spring and everyone wants to go outside and apply fertilizer to their plants, because that’s what you do in the spring. However, overfertilizering your plants is not only a waste of time and money, but it can also damage your plants and harm the environment. If you already incorporated lots of compost and other organic material into your soil every year, your soil is probably doing well. So before you add fertilizer or any other soil amendments to your garden, I encourage you to get a soil test.
Once you’ve gotten your soil tested, confirmed that you need fertilizer, and are ready to add some fertilizer, there are many things to consider, so lets take a look at a few of them.
Soil amendments are substances added to the soil to improve plant growth. Fertilizers the most common type of soil amendment and their main purpose is to supply nutrients to plants. Soil conditioners are soil amendments that are mixed into the topsoil to improve soil structure. Improving the structure of your soil will allow water and air movement in the soil and help with plant root growth. Compost is considered a soil conditioner as it improves the soil structure with the added benefits of slowly releasing nutrients to the plants and increasing bacterial and fungal activity. Other soil amendments include biostimulants and pH adjusters.
Fertilizers contain the primary macronutrients needed by plants: nitrogen(N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) . The three numbers on a bag of fertilizer represent the percentage (by weight) of NPK found in that bag. For example, the numbers on a 50-lb. bag of 10-6-4 fertilizer contains 10% N (5 lbs.), 6% P (3 lbs.), and 4% K (2 lbs.) The remaining 80% (40 lbs.) of the mixture is made up of secondary nutrients like calcium, magnesium and sulfur, trace elements, and fillers that make it easier to spread.
Each macronutrient is essential to healthy plant growth. Nitrogen (N) is used for to promote foliar growth. Phosphorus (P) supports the plant’s roots and reproductive system including flower and fruit development. Potassium (K) is important in root development and for overall plant health, including disease and stress resistance.
Knowing what each number represents can help you decide which fertilizer is best for your specific situation. If you are looking for a fertilizer to enhance flower production for your annual and perennial flowers, you would choose a fertilizer with more phosphorous like a 5-10-5. If you are looking to encourage foliar growth for leafy green vegetables, evergreens, or shrubs, you would look for a fertilizer with more nitrogen or a higher first number such as 10-6-4. Understanding the number will help you avoid applying the wrong kind of fertilizer. If you add too much nitrogen to a tomato plant, you might have a lush green leafy plant with very few flowers. The same holds true for root crops such as carrots; too much nitrogen will produce beautiful leaves, but smaller roots.
Fertilizer burn
Remember chemical fertilizers contain salts. Apply too much, and the plant cells will begin to dehydrate and collapse. Too much fertilizer will burn plant leaves and roots, and sometimes even kill the plant. This is called fertilizer burn. If you suspect fertilizer burn, use plenty of water to flush out excess fertilizer and prune out any burned leaves.
Whether you use solid or liquid fertilizer, you should always water your plants before application. This will help the roots absorb nutrients better and mitigate the risk of root burn.
A common type of solid fertilizer is granular fertilizer. Granular fertilizers can be broadcast by hand and then scratched into the top 4-6 inches of soil. For large areas like lawns, a mechanical spreader can be used. Moisture is needed to break down solid fertilizers and make nutrients available to plants. After application, carefully wash any fertilizer granules off of the foliage of your plants and water to release the nutrients.
Many solid fertilizers are quick release meaning that the nutrients are available immediately after application. There are also slow-release fertilizers that come in capsule forms and dissolve as they get wet. Since the capsules are made to break down at different rates, a single application can last over several months.
Water soluble fertilizers are sold as liquids or powders which you dissolve in watering before applying. These are great for fast-growing plants because the fertilizer is applied directly to the leaves and plants take up nutrients more efficiently through the leaves than through roots. Nutrients are absorbed quickly and rarely burn the plants. For large areas you can use hose-end sprayer fertilizers which come in containers that connect to the end of your hose and can be easily sprayed over your plants. A drawback to liquid fertilizers is that they must be applied more frequently as they can move quickly through the soil especially if it rains after an application.
Organic fertilizers are derived from plant and animal sources or a mined mineral such as rock phosphate. Liquid organic fertilizers include compost tea, fish emulsion, and seaweed. Dry organic fertilizers include manure, blood meal, bone meal, and cottonseed meal. Organic fertilizers usually contain low concentration of nutrients that are slowly released into the environment as they are broken down by soil microbes. Because of this, they are much less likely to cause fertilizer burn, and do not harm beneficial microbes in the soil.
Inorganic fertilizers or synthetic fertilizers are usually less expensive than organic ones and give quick results. However there are draw backs. They can cause fertilizer burn and if application rate or timing is off, there is a high chance of fertilizer runoff which can have detrimental effects on the environment. Many synthetic fertilizers also contain high concentrations of salts, which can cause fertilizer burn and can harm soil microbes.
Home gardeners have a tendency to overfertilize, that is why soil tests are so important. Remember if your beds are rich in organic material you may not need any fertilizer, that holds true for annuals, herbaceous perennials, and vegetables. New gardens low in organic matter may need to be fertilized in early spring, usually a 5-10-10 will suffice, but make sure to test your soil to see what your soil needs.
Herbs are a special case. Many herbs such as basil, thyme, rosemary, oregano, and lavender, grow best on sunny dry sites in sandy soil. Heavy applications of fertilizers or organic matter may lower the plant’s essential oil content and encourage root and stem rot diseases.
Healthy mature trees usually do not need fertilizer as they benefit from turf fertilization as well as the decomposition of grass clippings and fallen leaves. Shrubs that are surrounded by turf usually do not require additional fertilizer either. For those shrubs whose growth is slow, top-dress their beds with compost or apply a balanced fertilizer like 5-10-5 in early spring or in late fall. Don’t fertilize your perennials, trees and shrubs in late summer or early fall or you may encourage a flush of new growth that will not have time to harden off before the winter.
When it comes to lawns, the best time to apply fertilizer is in September. If you have a high use lawn it may need a second fertilizer application in May. Returning grass clipping to your lawn can reduce the need for nitrogen fertilizer by 25 – 50 %. Note that New York State Runoff Law restricts the use of fertilizer containing phosphorous unless you are establishing a new lawn or have the results of a soil test that indicate your lawn does not have enough phosphorous. Check out Cornell’s turf website for more information about how and when to feed your lawn.
Soil pH is a measure of the hydrogen ion activity in the soil. The scale of measuring acidity or alkalinity contains 14 divisions known as pH units. The pH value of 7 is neutral with values below 7 are acidic and values above 7 are basic or alkaline. With some exceptions most plants do best when the soil pH is in the 6.0 – 7.0 range. pH affects the availability of nutrients in the soil. As a result, plants in soil with very high or very low soil pH will show symptoms of nutrient deficiency.
Of course some plants prefer acidic or alkaline soil. Azaleas like an acidic soil and may develop yellow leaves if the pH is over 7.0. Blueberries do best in an acidic soil in the 4.5 – 5 range.
You can change the pH of the soil, but it is usually a slow process and may require repeat treatments. Adding lime to the soil will increase the pH and adding ammonium sulfate, iron sulfate or elemental sulfur will lower the pH. Liming is best done in the fall to allow time for it to change the pH. Instead of trying to change the pH of your soil, it is easier to choose plants that are adapted to the existing conditions. This is the principle of selecting the right plant for the right site. Changes to pH are short term and annual pH tests are recommended to determine what needs to be done to maintain desired soil pH.
Remember that the best way to improve plant growth is the regular incorporation of organic matter or compost in the soil for good soil structure. If you do decide to buy soil amendments, always read the label, apply the recommended amounts and use proper personal protective equipment like gloves and masks. Happy gardening!
By Cecille Jones, Monroe Master Gardener Volunteer
This article appeared in the March 2021 Issue of Gardening in Orange County.
The advice to plant the right tree in the right place couldn’t apply more to our tree of the month – the silver maple.
If you have space in your property and you want a fast-growing shade tree, the silver maple (Acer saccharinum) might be for you. The name Acer comes from the Celtic, ac, meaning hard, denoting the dense wood of the maple genus. The species name, saccharinum, means sugar because of the tree’s sap-producing quality (although this is not the best species for making our favored breakfast syrup.)
A species native to eastern North America, the silver maple features 3 – 6” leaves with 5 lobes separated by notably deep, narrow sinuses. Its common name was derived from the fact that its leaves are dark green on top but silvery-white on the underside. Most people delight in seeing the silver underbellies of its leaves shimmer in the sun at the slightest puff of wind during spring and summer.
In the fall, the leaves turn pale yellow. Come springtime, they produce red, yellow and silver clusters of small flowers. At over 3” long, the winged seeds of silver maples are the largest of all native maples.
These trees have wildlife value. Think of beavers finding them delicious, squirrels feasting on their buds, and ducks and other birds using them as nesting sites.
The silver maple holds the distinction of being the twentieth most commonly planted shade tree in American gardens. It grows fast, provides shade quickly, and can adapt to a wide variety of soil conditions.
Silver maples can grow anywhere in Zones 3 to 7. It can survive seasonal inundation and poor soil. As a wetland tree (it’s also called swamp maple), it prefers deep, moist acidic soil. Once established however, it can tolerate drought.
Full sun to partial shade are best for this tree. It prefers a minimum of four hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight each day. Silver maples can reach between 50’ to 80’ in height and spread from 35’ to 50’ at maturity. Its growth rate could be as much as two feet annually.
Silver maples are not orderly trees with symmetrical form. Their trunks can become massive, and they have a wide spreading but shallow root system. Don’t expect plants to thrive beneath them.
More importantly, remember to plant this tree well away from your house, foundation, sidewalk and sewer lines where its dense roots can wreak havoc. Also, beware that silver maples have a reputation for having branches that break easily during ice and wind storms.
Just like other trees, silver maples have their good and bad points. That’s why planting this native tree in the right place is key to your success.
By Cecille Jones, Monroe Master Gardener Volunteer
This article appeared in the March 2021 Issue of Gardening in Orange County.
When you hear the name tree-of-heaven (Ailanthusaltissima), remember this: There is nothing heavenly about this invasive plant. It is so named only because it can grow to such heights that it is as if it’s reaching for the sky.
This plant is aggressive and does not have natural predators to keep it in check. When native plant and animal species are hindered, the balance and biodiversity of the native ecosystem is upset and could potentially lead to extinctions.
Also called Chinese sumac, the tree of heaven is attractive to pollinators, further ensuring its spread. It releases a toxic chemical into the soil that harms other plants, rodents and microbes. What’s more, the tree-of-heaven is said to advance the spread of the spotted lanternfly, an invasive insect that feeds on and damages many species of native and fruit-bearing trees. The lanternfly prefers to lay its eggs on the tree-of-heaven, so keeping this tree in check could limit the lanternfly’s advance.
Identification
Proper identification of the tree-of-heaven is important because it can be confused with native plants such as the staghorn sumac, black walnut and butternut, to name a few.
One quick way to tell the difference: When you crush the foliage or break a twig, the tree-of-heaven will emit a foul odor.
Like its native look-alikes, the leaves of the tree-of-heaven are pinnately compound. They have a central stem (called rachis) in which leaflets are attached directly opposite each other. One leaf can be as long as 4 feet with 10 to 40 lance-shaped leaflets with smooth margins, except at the base where there are one of two protruding bumps called grandular teeth. In contrast, the leaves of the native plants are much shorter and have fewer leaflets with serrated (teeth-like) margins.
Management
Tree-of-Heaven is a formidable advisory as it spreads using both seeds and root sprouts. Cutting down of tree-of-heaven is ineffective and may exacerbate the problem as the remaining roots will then send up new sprouts. Watch this great video to learn how to effectively remove tree-of-heaven from your property.
Pesticide regulations vary state to state. If unsure whether or not you can use a certain pesticide in your state, contact your local Cooperative Extension Office. When using herbicides make sure to carefully read the entire label before application and follow all of the instructions including wearing proper personal protective equipment (PPE). The label is the law!
By Sharon Lunden, Goshen Master Gardener Volunteer
This article appeared in the February 2021 Issue of Gardening in Orange County.
This month we honor two great presidents, Abraham Lincoln and George Washington. Stories circulate about each of them chopping trees in their youth. Images of young Lincoln frequently show an axe in his hands, and we’ve all heard the legend of six-year-old George Washington chopping down his father’s cherry tree, confessing, “I cannot tell a lie . . . I did cut it with my hatchet.”
Yoshino cherry trees in bloom
What do you think of when you hear “cherry tree”? Perhaps the cherry blossoms surrounding the tidal basin in Washington, D.C. They have gorgeous white and pink blooms that fragrance the air each spring. Did you know there are more than a dozen varieties of cherry tree throughout our nation’s capital? Japan gave 3020 of these trees to the United States in 1912, as a gesture of friendship. Most were Yoshino cherry trees, Prunus x yedoensis, blooming in clusters of single white flowers with an almond scent, and developing small cherries that attract birds.
Kwanzan cherry blossoms
Another variety sent from Japan is the fruitless Kwanzan cherry, Prunus serrulata. ‘Kwanzan’ produces pink double blooms. Both varieties of cherry tree can be planted in our area. They are hardy in zones up to 5b, and they develop pretty fall foliage. They are relatively short (15–20 feet tall), and short-lived (up to 20 years), but they are so lovely, many gardeners consider them worth the effort. Cherry blossom festivals are held throughout the United States in spring, a testament to our devotion to these gorgeous trees.
Perhaps you’ve seen a Weeping Higan cherry, Prunus x subhirtella (‘Pendula’) in a neighbor’s garden. These grow up to 40 feet tall and produce pretty pink double blossoms on their branches. They can be trimmed for easy mowing or gardening closer to their trunks, or allowed to droop to the ground—in which case you’d need to plant around their drip line to incorporate them into a flower bed.
Ornamental cherries are non-natives and can be susceptible to disease and insect infestation, so they may require regular attention.
Black cherry tree blossoms
Native cherries, or black cherries, Prunus serotina, stand in stark contrast to their ornamental cousins. These trees tower between 60 and 90 feet and can be found from Nova Scotia to Florida and from coast to coast, in zones 3b–9a. They erupt in pendulous racemes up to 6 inches long, covered in fragrant white flowers in spring. They have shiny foliage throughout the summer, turning to a rosy yellow in the fall. The inside of the bark has been used by Native Americans for cough syrups and medicines. The wood is prized by woodworkers for use in making furniture, cabinetry, gun stocks, and musical instruments. These native cherry trees also produce edible cherries.
Cluster of Bing cherries
We’ve probably all snacked on a bowl of Bing cherries, Prunus avium ‘Bing’, a well-loved variety of sweet cherries. These trees come in both standard (up to 35 feet tall) or dwarf (12–15 feet tall) varieties, and grow in zones 5–8. Bing will take about 5 years to begin producing, but once mature a Bing cherry tree can produce 50–100 lbs. of fruit!
These are just a few of the hundreds of varieties of cherry trees available. Why not consider planting one to delight your eyes as well as your taste buds?
By Madelene Knaggs, New Windsor Master Gardener Volunteer
This article appeared in the February 2021 Issue of Gardening in Orange County.
Not so fast with swapping out your hiking boots. Don’t let plunging temperatures lure you into packing away trusty outdoor gear just yet. Some of our region’s most loved trails offer a completely different hiking experience come wintertime. Put on some wool socks and get your dose of snow-dusted evergreens.
With snow and freezing temps, the Hudson Valley is known for its winters that drive most people to hibernate indoors. While those folks are cuddled up next to the fire sipping hot cocoa, there are inviting trails, mountaintops, and waterfalls just waiting to be discovered by winter enthusiasts. It may be chilly, but the rewards are well worth it.
Winter hiking can present its own set of challenges. Before you head out, think ahead and prepare for a wide range of conditions. Here are some tips to help you stay safe out on the trail:
Make sure someone knows where you are going, and
never go out alone.
Visibility can be reduced due to shorter daylight hours as
well as blowing snow.
Carry a map (not just a digital device, which depends on
battery power and signal reception), compass, and
flashlight, as well as safety items such as matches and a
whistle. Pack a knife or multi-tool and a small first aid kit.
Wear proper footwear—waterproof footwear with good
tread. Bring extra traction devices with you in case of ice.
A sturdy walking stick is a helpful accessory.
Watch for hypothermia. The best remedy is dressing in
layers and having extra dry, warm clothes in your
backpack. Wear wool or synthetic fabrics. No cotton.
Beware of frostbite. Have a couple of hand- and toe-warmers
in your pack.
Stay hydrated. Mix a sports drink with your water to keep it from freezing.
Pack calorie-dense foods such as granola bars, dried fruit, and nuts to help fuel your hike.
Make sure your phone is fully charged, and bring your
camera.
You are now ready to take that hike! Pay attention as your own personal IMAX show begins. The hills, dales, and woods of the Hudson Valley take on a new form in the winter. Leafless trees make for stunning views, while snow-laden trails are a good reason to break out the insulated hiking boots and snowshoes. Experience the tranquil nature of winter as you follow icy streams through hilly forests filled with northern hardwoods and pines.
Deer tracks in snow
The animal world also presents itself very differently in this season. Take a walk on a cold winter morning when a dusting of snow has coated the ground, and you will see the tracks of animals who only hours before had gone about their nightly rituals. Animals that do not migrate or fully hibernate may be elusive during the winter months but are still present in the forests. Mink, fishers, black bears, raccoons, bobcats, and rabbits may not be as common or as visible as deer or squirrels, but they can sometimes be seen in the early morning hours or at dusk. For help identifying the tracks of animals you may encounter, check out this article about deciphering winter animal tracks and/or these great illustrations of animal tracks.
Adult winter stonefly
Although you won’t see many insects while out hiking in the winter, there a few that may surprise you. While cross-country skiing along a railroad track bed in New Windsor this December, I spotted an unfamiliar little creature in the snow. I sent a picture in to Susan Ndiaye, the Community Horticulture Educator/Master Gardener Volunteer Coordinator, who promptly identified the mystery “bug” as a winter stonefly, from the family Taeniopterygidae. Winter stonefly nymphs are aquatic and spend their summers in streams, then in winter they emerge as adults onto the snow or ice. Adult winter stoneflies are usually smaller than an inch in length, but their dark brown or black color makes them visible on the snow. The adults only survive for a few weeks, walking across the snow searching for a mate.
Black-capped chickadee
As you continue your hike, try to identify birds. Many species of birds do not migrate but remain to take advantage of local food sources. Some of these birds, especially chickadees, can spend the winters here in the northeast due to their short-term hibernation state called ‘torpor,’ which they enter when temperatures drop. During this period triggered by exposure to cold, food shortages, or droughts, their energy expenditure is reduced. Throughout their torpor, metabolism, body temperature, and heart rate are decreased to help them conserve energy and maintain body heat.
There are also many trees that thrive in the forests in the winter and are relatively easy to identify. The native eastern white pine (Pinus strobus) is found in well-drained soils, and usually grows straight and tall with horizontal, upturned branches. The tree has a uniformly full foliage, with a light gray bark that has shallow ridges. White pines have 5 feathery light green needles per cluster, and both the needles and the stem are flexible and slim. White pine cones, which are narrow and about 3 to 8 inches long, are tasty treats for squirrels and birds.
Eastern hemlock tree
Another native evergreen, the eastern hemlock (Tsuga canadensis), has a tall, straight growth pattern, with branches that stretch out horizontally. It looks like a Christmas tree covered in small, round, brown pine cone decorations. Unlike Christmas pine trees, though, hemlock does not have bundles of needles, just one short needle per node. The needles are soft and dark green in color with two ‘racing stripes’ on the underside of each needle. Its twigs are thin and flexible. The bark of the Hemlock is scaly when young, and eventually becomes ridged with age. Its trunk is reddish-brown in color. These trees grow in a shady, moist habitat, along streams or at higher elevations, and help keep the water in mountain streams cold for brook trout and other coldwater fishes.
Many of NYS’s hiking trails offer fragrant pine and evergreen forests. Taking in the scents and tranquil beauty of these trails can do much to calm your spirits during difficult times. Observe the striking contrast of the greenery against any snow that may have fallen. Stop and admire stands of birch surrounding frozen lake and creek shorelines, and the astonishing views that have opened up since the autumn leaves have fallen. In addition to the stark majesty of the forest’s bare branches against the winter sky, remember to keep an eye out for the Hudson Valley’s many waterfalls, which are even more magnificent when temperatures drop below freezing. What could be more magical than icicle-glistening waterfalls?
Tree clubmoss
One final interesting attraction I’ll mention that you might encounter in a local forest hike is the flat-branched tree clubmoss (Lycopodium obscurum), also called ‘ground pine’ (although it really is a moss). It is fairly common here in the eastern US and southeastern Canada. Clubmosses look like miniature Christmas trees or candles on the forest floor. Some types grow as long runners that were once commonly used for garlands. Today, this plant is on the protected species list in order to prevent over-harvesting. So if you do get the chance to see some, please enjoy the sight and then let it be!
Besides walking, there are many other ways to explore local hiking trails. Depending on the amount of snow cover, some good alternatives to hoofing it in boots alone include donning snowshoes or cross-country skis.
The Hudson Valley has an abundance of state parks and outdoor recreation areas to visit. Here are some suggested destinations for lovely winter treks:
A woody road leads to a blue-blazed trail that takes you to Arden Point, the first of several vistas on this easy four-mile hike. In addition, the walk takes you over a road used by noted Revolutionary War–era figure Benedict Arnold to escape capture after being revealed as a traitor.
Take the green-on-orange Townsend Trail to the white-on-green Long Meadow Extension Trail, which is also a skiing trail. The sweeping view overlooking southeast Orange County is made even more expansive thanks to the bare trees of winter.
Access Points/Parking:Chester Depot Museum, Village of Chester; St. James Place, Village of Goshen; and Park and Ride Lot B, Village of Monroe
Follow the former Erie Railroad as it winds past historic graveyards, onion farms, a wildlife sanctuary, and the villages of Monroe, Chester, and Goshen.
Designated a National Historic Landmark in 1986, this resort sits on 2200 acres of landscaped meadows, adjacent to the Mohonk Preserve—an 8000-acre expanse of mountain terrain. Forty miles of hiking trails through forests, cliffs, streams, and ponds provide cascading views of the Catskills.
Explore a great variety of trails, from carriage-type roads to narrow, rocky paths. The many reservoirs and ecosystems and the tree and plant diversity offer good opportunities to see wildlife, or at least their tracks!
Cornwall’s many hiking trails along meadows, forests, and ponds make for a winter wonderland.
Finally, for a plethora of further information on where to go and what you’ll find, safety tips, suggested trails to hike based on your level of experience, helpful links, and much more, visit the Hiking page on the NYS Department of Environmental Conservation website.
So, loaded up with good information and the right preparations and equipment, you can get out there and enjoy the great outdoors in the winter. Just remember, “There’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothes!”
Hopefully you’ve spent some time outside enjoying the beautiful spring weather we had last weekend. Did you noticed any ash trees that look like they have been completely stripped of their bark? Did you wonder what happened? Did you think it was a disease, an insect or maybe a deer? This damaged is actually caused by woodpeckers. They are searching for emerald ash borer larvae which can be found just below the bark.
Adult emerald ash borer
The emerald ash borer (Agrilus planipennis) is an shiny emerald-colored jewel beetle. Native to Asia, it was first discovered in North America near Detroit, Michigan in 2002 (most likely hitching a ride here in solid wood packing materials used in the transportation of goods).
Despite its beauty, the emerald ash borer is an invasive insect and has killed hundreds of millions of ash treesthroughout North America. As of April 2020, it has been found in 35 states and 5 Canadian provincescostingmunicipalities, property owners, nursery operators and forestry product industries hundreds of millions of dollars.
Lifecycle
Emerald ash borers, like all beetles, undergo complete metamorphosis. Usually in June and July, adult females lay 60-90 eggs on the bark of ash trees (Fraxinus spp.). The eggs hatch and the larvae bore through the outer bark and begin feeding on the inner bark or phloem of the ash tree. The larvae feed for several weeks growing to rough 1 to 1.25 inches in length. The larvae then overwinter in the bark. In the spring they pupate and finally in May and June emerge as adults and exit their host tree by creating a D-shaped whole in the bark. The adults feed on the leaves of the ash tree, mate, and females lay eggs starting the cycle over.
Damage
As mentioned before, the larvae of the emerald ash borer feed on the inner bark or phloem of the ash tree. The phloem is part of the vascular system of the plant and is responsible for transporting the sugars produced by photosynthesis in the leaves to the rest of tree. Damage to the phloem cuts of the nutrient supply and eventually leads to the death of the tree.
Dying ash tree
One of the first symptoms produced by an emerald ash borer infestation is a thinning canopy. With fewer leaves the tree’s ability to produce food through photosynthesis decreases and as a result the tree may produce lots of shoots that sprout from the roots and trunk. The leaves on these shoots are often larger than normal as the tree tries to compensate for its loss of photosynthetic capability. The tree’s canopy will continue to thin eventually leaving the tree bare.
Many people do not notice that the canopy of their ash tree is thinning. For many people, the first symptom that they notice is the woodpecker damage on the trunk. At this point the tree is usually heavily infested by emerald ash borer and will soon succumb to the infestation.
Management
The emerald ash borer was first detected in New York State in 2009 over in Cattaraugus County. Two years later, in 2011, it was detected here in Orange County. As of right now the majority of trees in Orange County have been infested by the emerald ash borer and are showing signs of decline or have died. Once you notice that the canopy of your ash tree is thinning there has already been extensive damage to the vascular system of the tree and even with treatment there is little chance of recovery.
Deciding whether or not to treat your ash tree is up to you. The first thing to do is make sure you properly identify your tree.
Once you have properly identified your tree there are three option: cut it, treat it, or leave it.
Cut It
Ash trees that create a potential hazard (i.e. proximity to a building) need to be removed. If you cannot safely remove the tree yourself, look for a certified arborist near you at www.treesaregood.org. Many ash trees are being turned into firewood. Keep in mind that New York State law prohibits the movement of firewood more than 50 miles (linear distance) from its source, specifically to prevent the accidental movement of invasive species like the emerald ash borer. Don’t Move Firewood!
Treat It
Remember that that if you tree is already showing signs of decline it is probably too late to save it through treatment.
If you decide you want to treat your ash tree(s), it is not just a one time investment. Most treatments only last one or two years before they wear off leaving the tree susceptible to infestation. This means trees need to be treated ever couple years since at the moment the emerald ash borer looks like it is here to stay.
If your ash tree poses no potential hazard, consider leaving it. Although the emerald ash borer has killed millions of ash trees here in North America, there is hope the identification of “lingering ash” or an ash that stays healthy after nearby trees have overwhelmingly succumbed to the emerald ash borer. The identification of “lingering ash” could help achieve ash species conservation. Click here to learn more about how you can become a citizen scientist with the Lingering Ash Search through the Monitoring and Managing Ash Program.
Let’s start with the parasitoid wasps. Three species of parasitoid wasps found in the emerald ash borer’s native range were were considered potential biological control agents. These parasitoids are natural enemies of the emerald ash borer and have long ovipositors that allow them to drill into the ash trees and lay their eggs on the emerald ash borer larvae. Once the eggs hatch the wasp larvae consume the emerald ash borer larvae alive. (Note: In order to get permission to release these parasitoid wasps in the United Stated, it took four or five years of research to make sure that they were host specific to emerald ash borer and wouldn’t impact any other similar species.) Of the three species released, two are showing promise, although research is still being done regarding their dispersal, spread, and ability to overwinter.
Onto the entomopathogenic fungus, Beauveria bassiana. When spores of this fungus come in contact with the emerald ash borer, they germinate and penetrate the cuticle of the insect. The fungus continues growing inside the insect eventually killing it. Although research has show that this fungus can kill the emerald ash borer, more research is need to see if it is effective form a biological control out in the field.
Many things in nature are governed by the weather, such as the hatching of bagworm eggs and in this case the emergence of emerald ash borer adults. You can track this year’s emergence using the “Emerald Ash Borer Forecast“. This forecast is updated daily and available six days in the future. Emerald ash borer adults are rarely seen. Once they emerge, they fly up into the canopy to feed on the leaves. But if you know when they are emerging you can be on the look out and might be lucky enough to find one.
The ash tree is a member of the Oleacae Family and researchers have found that the emerald ash borer can also complete its life cycle in another well-known member of the Oleacae family, the olive tree (Olea europaea). Although this has only been shown in a laboratory project, there is a possibility that the emerald ash borer could become a problem for olive growers.
Scientists are limited in the amount of data they can collect by both time and money. With help from members of the general public, known as citizen scientists, researchers are able to crowd source data collection collecting more data from more places helping them find answers to real-world questions.
So if you want to do something fun and educational that contributes to the advancement of scientific knowledge, consider becoming a citizen scientist.
This project focuses on migration and seasonal changes. People all over the United States, Canada, and Mexico, report sightings of birds, monarchs, frogs, and other organism. Watch as reported sightings are mapped in real-time as waves of migrations that move across the continent.
iNaturalist lets you photograph, identify, and document what’s around you. Every observation can contribute to biodiversity science, from the rarest butterfly to the most common backyard weed. By sharing your observations with scientists, you will help build our understanding of the natural world.
In studying life, scientists have overlooked many regions. Some regions have not been studied because they are so remote. Others because they are so diverse that it is hard to know where to even begin. Then there is the great indoors, which we believe has been understudied in part because it is so immediate. This project aims to document the species that live indoors with humans.
Hundreds of thousands of people around the world contribute bird observations to the Cornell Lab of Ornithology each year, gathering data on a scale once unimaginable. Scientists use these data to reveal how birds are affected by habitat loss, pollution, disease, climate, and other environmental changes. Your participation will help trace bird migration, nesting success, and changes in bird numbers through time.
Celebrate Urban Birds is a citizen science project focused on better understanding the value of green spaces for birds. This project connects people of all ages and backgrounds to birds and the natural world through the arts and fun neighborhood activities.
The goal of this project is to gather this information on bird sightings, archive it, and freely share it to power new data-driven approaches to science, conservation and education. e-Bird also develops tools that make birding more rewarding. It provides the most current and useful information to the birding community from photos and audio recordings, to seeing real-time maps of species distribution and alerts that let you know when species have been seen.
NestWatch is a nationwide monitoring program designed to track status and trends in the reproductive biology of birds, including when nesting occurs, number of eggs laid, how many eggs hatch, and how many hatchlings survive. Their database is intended to be used to study the current condition of breeding bird populations and how they may be changing over time as a result of climate change, habitat degradation and loss, expansion of urban areas, and the introduction of non-native plants and animals.
The Tick App allows people living in high-risk areas for Lyme disease, like Orange County New York, to participate in a tick behavioral study. Participants complete daily logs and report ticks. The app provides information on how to remove ticks, prevent tick bites, and general information about ticks. When enough people are involved, it can also provides information about blacklegged and deer tick activity in our area.
This citizen science project’s mission is to better understand the distribution and abundance of breeding monarchs and to use that knowledge to inform and inspire monarch conservation. People from across the United States and Canada participate in this monarch research. Their observations aid in conserving monarchs and their threatened migratory phenomenon, and advance the understanding of butterfly ecology in general.
Monarch Watch strives to provide the public with information about the biology of monarch butterflies, their spectacular migration, and how to use monarchs to further science education in primary and secondary schools. They engage in research on monarch migration biology and monarch population dynamics to better understand how to conserve the monarch migration.
In the spring and fall volunteers collect observations of adult monarchs. This information is used to assemble quantitative data on monarch numbers at critical times during the breeding season.
Each fall Monarch Watch distributes more than a quarter of a million tags to thousands of volunteers across North America who tag monarchs as they migrate through their area. These citizen scientists capture monarchs throughout the migration season, record the tag code, tag date, gender of the butterfly, and geographic location then tag and release them. At the end of the tagging season, these data are submitted to Monarch Watch and added to their database to be used in research.
In the past twenty years, native ladybugs that were once very common have become extremely rare. During this same time, ladybugs from other parts of the world have greatly increased in both numbers and range. This is happening very quickly and no one knows how, why, or what impact it will have on ladybug diversity. Citizen scientists involved in this project help scientists answer these questions by photographing ladybugs and submitting the photos along with information about when and where the ladybugs were found.
A project of Cornell University’s Garden Based Learning, this web forum provides an avenue for gardeners to share knowledge. Gardeners report what vegetable varieties perform well – and not so well – in their gardens. Other gardeners can view ratings and read the reviews to decide which might work well for them. Researchers use the information gain new insight into the performance of vegetable varieties under a wide range of conditions and practices. The information gathered is also used to make a Selected List of Vegetable Varieties for Gardeners in New York State.
Native pollinators play an essential role in the pollination of flowering plants, including native plants and wildflowers, garden plants, as well as cultivated crops. Some native pollinator species have suffered population declines over the last few decades. Participants in this study submit photographs and/or specimens to help determine the conservation status of a wide array of native insect pollinators in non-agricultural habitats.
iMapInvasives is an on-line, GIS-based data management system used to assist citizen scientists and natural resource professionals working to protect our natural resources from the threat of invasive species. Citizen scientists are provided with resources to help them identify invasive species. Their invasive species findings are aggregated with data from a wide variety of sources contributing to early detection of invasive species as well as analysis of management strategies.
Natural history museums across the world share a common goal – to conserve and make available knowledge about natural and cultural heritage. The Notes from Nature project gives you the opportunity to make a scientifically important contribution towards that goal by transcribing museum records. Every transcription that is completed brings us closer to filling gaps in our knowledge of global biodiversity and natural heritage.
This is an official government website designed to accelerate the use of crowdsourcing and citizen science across the U.S. government. It includes a searchable database of a government-wide listing of citizen science and crowdsourcing projects designed to improve cross-agency collaboration, reveal opportunities for new high-impact projects, and make it easier for volunteers to find out about projects they can join.
If you happen to have a garden or have decided that this is the year to start one there are lots of things to keep you busy at this time of year!
Perennial Beds
Mantis ootheca on forsythia
Hopefully you waited until spring to clean up your garden to allow beneficial insects and other arthropods such as bees and butterflies to overwinter. Now that spring has sprung you should leave debris as long as you can to give these creatures a chance to emerge from their winter hiding places. You should start carefully removing debris from around blossoming plants. If you must cut back hollow stems, bundle them so any pollinators overwintering inside have a chance to emerge. As you are cleaning up be on the look out for praying mantis egg cases know as ootheca. This is one time when you should leave things till tomorrow!
Freshly mulched garden beds
Mulching is another spring time activity. There are many different types of organic mulch that will not only suppress weeds, but also add organic material to the soil as they break down. You don’t have to mulch everything, in fact many ground nesting bees such as bumble bees need a bit of bare earth to make their nests. And if you are mulching your trees make sure to keep the mulch at least 3 inches away from the base of the tree so that it is not touching the bark.
It is not to late to seed one more round of cool season crop such as cabbage, kale, and lettuce, but it is also time to start seeding warm season crops such as eggplant, peppers, and tomatoes.
To start seeds you will need:
seeds
Flats of seedlings
There are lots of places online where you can purchase seeds. If you still have seeds left over from last year and don’t know if they are still good, don’t throw them out, try this simple home germination test.
sterile potting mix
It is important to use sterile potting mix to avoid disease issues like damping off. Do not reuse potting mix and do not use garden compost.
container
Rainbow chard seedlings in a supermarket salad container
You don’t need to buy a fancy container to start seeds. Just make sure the container has been sterilized and has drainage holes.
water
You want to keep the soil moist, but be careful not to over water or you may have a problem with damping off.
light source
Bookcase converted into a grow frame
Some seeds need light to germinate, but all seeds need light after they germinate. Once your seeds sprout a light source will help prevent them from becoming leggy. You can purchase grow lights or just use a soft white fluorescent bulb. Here are directions on how to build a Low-Cost Grow-Light Frame.
heat
Mini greenhouse
Most seeds will germinate between the temperatures of 55°F and 75°F, but the optimal temperature for each type of seed varies. You can create a mini-green house to trap heat and moisture. You can also buy heating mats to warm the soil. Click here to see Soil Temperature Conditions for Vegetable Seed Germination.
Out in the Garden
Planting peas
Gardening is an activity for the whole family! Children love helping plant seeds! Right now you can be direct seeding cool season crops in your garden such as beets, carrots, lettuce, peas, radishes, spinach, and turnips. If you want to have a continual harvest, consider succession planting or seeding several smaller plantings of the same crop at timed intervals, rather than all at once.
Chives
While most people are busy seeding, some perennial plants are already coming up or even ready to harvest! Chives are a great example of a perennial that allows you add something fresh and green to your meals in the early spring. If you planted chives in your garden last year, they are probably already making their way to your table. This perennial of the onion family begins growing in early March and is able to be snipped with scissors and eaten soon after and throughout the growing season right up until the fall frost.
Rhubarb
Another perennial making an appearance is rhubarb! Rhubarb is a great addition to any vegetable garden and as it is deer resistant and highly attractive it can also be used as part of your edible landscape. Although the leaves of rhubarb are considered poisonous, the stems of this spring crop that can be used to make the classic strawberry rhubarb pie as well as many other delicious snacks.
And as always, if you are having any issues in your garden, need help identifying the cause of a problem or figuring out a management strategy give us a call. Our Garden Helpline phones are staffed April – November, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, from 9:30 am – 12:30 pm. But you can always leave us a message or send us an e-mail.
When European pine sawfly eggs hatch birds and rodents help decrease the number of larvae on your pines, but sometimes additional management is needed. You can remove larvae by hand or prune out infested branches. Put larvae and branches in a pail of soapy water.
i-Naturalist
