Gypsy Moth aka LDD Caterpillars

This has been a tough year for trees. On top of drought conditions, Gypsy moth caterpillars, also known as Lymantria dispar dispar (LDD) caterpillars, have been defoliating trees throughout our region, including Northern New York, Vermont, and Southern Canada. Our St. Lawrence County Extension garden hotline , “the Growline” (SLCGrowline@gmail.com) has received many calls and emails from homeowners distressed at the damage they are witnessing. Some have sprayed with little or no effect as the caterpillars munch their way through their ornamentals and large shade trees. 

The situation may seem dire, but the six Master Gardener Volunteers who serve as Growline moderators have distilled some great resources that can help us understand and manage the LDDs this year and in future years. This article covers the background and life cycle of this invasive species, tips for dealing with caterpillars and egg masses, and how to support affected trees through this stressful time.

Timeline

LDD caterpillar populations rise in years with mild winters and dry springs, and decline in wetter years due to a fungus called Entomophaga maimaiga that can spread through the population and keep them in check. Our current “moderate drought” and rising winter temperatures have played a major role in the current outbreak which began in 2019, grew in 2020, and is set to exceed 2020’s damage this summer. Despite this fungus, viruses and many other natural enemies, significant outbreaks have occurred in 1985, 1991 and 2002. Read more Gypsy Moth aka LDD Caterpillars

5 Garden Watering Tips

It is nearly impossible to have a successful garden without watering. There may be times when the perfect amount of rain falls, but nearly every growing season brings a stretch of hot and dry days when garden irrigation is essential.

Under drought stress, plants may produce small fruit, such as undersized tomatoes or melons, or they may produce no fruit at all. They may become tough, fibrous, or bitter, as with cabbage and turnips. They may bolt, sending up a flower stalk and stopping growth, as with lettuce and spinach. Or they may wilt and die. For the best and tastiest yield, it is important to pay attention to the watering needs of your plants.

But watering is a no-brainer, right? You simply follow common watering rules like “gardens need 1 inch of water per week” or “water once or twice a week“… that works, doesn’t it?  Well, the truth is, when it comes to watering there are no hard and fast rules that apply in all situations.

Here are some factors to consider when deciding when to water:

Read more 5 Garden Watering Tips

Why and how to Prune Your Tomatoes

If you haven’t pruned your tomatoes before, now is a great time to start! This simple process has many advantages including improved air circulation and better light penetration, both of which can prevent disease. It also yields good-sized fruit and more manageable plants that take up less space and are easier to trellis.

The only tool you will need is clean pruners. You can play it safe by keeping some disinfectant handy to sterilize your pruners between plants, or between garden beds if you’re concerned about spreading disease. If you have a lot of plants to prune, wear gloves to keep your hands from turning dark green by the end.

  1. The first step is to identify the parts of your tomato plant. Find the main stem and look for the places where suckers and leaves branch off. The leaf has leaflets and points straight out or slightly down, whereas the sucker points slightly up and is located above the leaf. Together they make a “K” shape with the main stem (see photo). Suckers can be tiny or large and have their own leaves, suckers, and even fruit clusters!
  2. Photo showing suckers and leaves on a tomato plantNow identify the fruit clusters, which can have buds, yellow flowers, or even small green tomatoes.
  3. Experts advise pruning indeterminate tomatoes to two vigorous stems: the main stem and one sucker. This will give the plant a “Y” shape.
  4. To determine which sucker to leave, locate the lowest fruit cluster and leave the sucker immediately below that. Remove all other suckers from the plant. Small suckers can be snapped by pulling to the side with your fingers, but use your clean pruners for larger suckers, particularly the ones at the bottom of the plant.
  5. With determinate tomatoes (check the seed packet, label, or look up the variety if you’re not sure) remove all suckers below the lowest fruit cluster.
  6. Lastly, remove the lower leaves that touch the ground or are yellowing. This reduces the chance for soil-borne diseases to reach the plant leaves and fruit.  If you have powdered cinnamon at home, apply a little bit on the exposed part of the stem after the cut. Cinnamon is a fungicide and can help prevent diseases from reaching your plant after pruning

Yields will increase and the chance of disease will decrease with regular pruning.

If you’re in St. Lawrence County, contact our Growline for gardening advice at SLCGrowline@gmail.com. Our Master Gardener Volunteers will happily answer your questions.

Erica LaFountain is Community Horticulture Educator and Master Gardener Coordinator for St. Lawrence County. She has a background in organic vegetable farming, gardening, and orcharding and has a homestead in Potsdam, NY.