Day: October 18, 2020

This week we began reading And China Has Hands which tells us about Wong Wan-Lee and his journey to America and his laundry business. On page sixteen, it says “He [Wan-Lee] fell asleep and he travelled into Hell. He met devils and he tried to run.” I was interested in learning about the origins of deviled eggs and why they are called that.

Boiled eggs originated from ancient Rome and were part of the first course called gustatio. They too were seasoned with oil, wine, broth, vinegar, and/or pepper and were served to wealthy Romans (Schumm). The first form of the deviled egg most familiar (seasoned filling in the yolk’s egg white indentation) was seen in 13th century Spain where the egg yolks were seasoned with onions, cilantro, lime, fermented sauce, oil, and salt and stuffed. Other variations seen across Europe included raisins, cheese, parsley, marjoram, and other interesting ingredients. The use of the word “devil” was seen in Great Britain in 1786 and referenced dishes with “hot ingredients or those that were highly seasoned and broiled or fried” (Schumm). Deviled eggs are also called mimosa eggs, stuffed eggs, dressed eggs, or salad eggs in other parts of the world and different environments (want to negate association with Satan in churches, for example). The first use of mayonnaise in this recipe was seen in 1896 in Boston, but not regularly adapted until the 1940s after it became widely available. Deviled eggs typically now also include mustard and paprika and maybe some dill or pickle topping.

Works Cited

Schumm, Laura. “The Ancient History of Deviled Eggs.” History.com, A&E Television Networks, 18 Apr. 2014, www.history.com/news/the-ancient-history-of-deviled-eggs.

Tsiang, H. T. And China Has Hands. Robert Speller, 1937.

In Part 17 of The Book of Salt, Binh describes the common scene of his two Mesdames waiting on the side of the road when their automobile can no longer drive. The two women pack especially for these occasions – Miss Toklas with her knitting materials, GertrudeStein with her notebooks – and the sight of them both is apparently effective at garnering offers of assistance. What strikes me particularly about this scene is the following remark: “GertrudeStein thinks that it is her winning American smile, an open-faced roast beef sandwich of a smile, and Miss Toklas’s jaunty hats that flag down the many offers of help.” I assume the metaphorical “roast beef sandwich of a smile” evokes a visual of GertrudeStein’s inviting expression, wrinkled like the folds of roast beef but expansive and hearty all the same, as open and quintessentially American as a roast beef sandwich can be.

Like many American traditions, roast beef is a style of prepared meat that had originally come from England. In fact, roast beef is so culturally significant to England that in 1731 a patriotic song titled “Roast Beef of Old England” was written to celebrate the dish (you can listen to it here). In the 18th Century, the term rosbif was actually a slur used by the French to refer to English people due to their associations with roast beef.

In America, the oldest written recording of roast beef on a sandwich is from an 1837 menu item, “Roast Beef on Kummelweck (a type of roll)”, from a Buffalo, NY restaurant called Schwabl’s, although it is thought that roast beef sandwiches have been served long before that time. Around the U.S., hot open-faced roast beef sandwiches have popularly featured mashed potatoes and gravy, and they were primarily consumed in working-class communities. These hearty sandwiches also appeared in the context of family dinners because they often used leftovers as ingredients. One account from 1900 of the gravy roast beef sandwich reports, “The general appearance is that of a tired ark in a gravy flood. Though unattractive to look at it eats all right, which is the main point” (“Food Timeline”).

It is interesting how what we consider to be “American food” is embodied by roast beef sandwiches and other traditionally working-class dishes, such as mac and cheese or hot dogs. These foods are visually unappealing yet filling and substantial, often associated with “homey” or “friendly” emotions. I believe this speaks significantly to perceptions of white American-ness  – despite the dominance of capitalism and standardized goal of monetary success in this country, there still remains an cultural identification with working-class values. In a way, GertrudeStein’s character is an exemplary American – coarse yet amicable, self-absorbed yet approachable, utilitarian but from the comfort of her privileges as a member of Paris’s white intelligentsia.

Works Cited

“The Food Timeline: History Notes – Sandwiches.” Food Timeline, 20 March 2015, http://www.foodtimeline.org/foodsandwiches.html#hotroastbeef

“Roast Beef of Old England.” Book of Days Tales, 19 Jun 2014, https://www.bookofdaystales.com/roast-beef-old-england/

Truong, Monique. The Book of Salt. E-book, Houghton Mifflin, 2003.

Webster, Jim. “One America, But So Many Different Roast Beef Sandwiches.” Washington Post, 4 Oct 2016, https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/food/one-america-many-beef-sandwiches-here-are-four-regional-varieties-to-savor/2016/10/03/81fb3466-85ca-11e6-a3ef-f35afb41797f_story.html

“Why Do French Call the British Roast Beefs?” BBC, 3 Apr 2003, http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/2913151.stm

In part 19, Binh emphasizes his connection to his Madame and Madame—“…when they dine on filet de boeuf Adrienne, I dine on filet de boeuf Adrienne. When they partake of salade cancalaise, I partake of salade cancalaise. When they conclude with Crème renversée à la cévenole, I conclude on the same sweet note.” They afford him an uncommon amount of respect and inclusion that he has never been party to in his past jobs. He eats concurrently with them, full meals as they are meant to be enjoyed, not just scraps. I began googling these dishes, as I often do for the blogs. When I searched Crème renversée à la cévenole, I unsurprisingly came across a recipe website. That’s not uncommon at all, when one is researching foods. What was surprising, however, was who the author was – Alice B Toklas, and the origin of the recipe – The Alice B Toklas Cookbook. I’m sure this was a wonderful intentional Easter egg on Monique Truong’s part, and we can hardly attribute the recipe to Binh, a fictional character. However, this provokes questions of authorship and citation. While Binh was not their cook, it’s likely they did have a cook, as did many cookbook and recipe authors. Who really created the dish, or invented the recipe? Do we credit the person with the original idea, the one with the skills and knowledge to bring that idea into a delicious reality? How can we piece this apart decades later? These are not questions unique to Toklas, or even cookbooks of the past. I am reminded of the recent Bon Appetit scandal, in which it was revealed that BIPOC members of the Test Kitchen were being vastly underpaid in comparison to their white colleagues. During the height of the media attention, I remember watching a youtube video a fan put together, cutting together all the times Sohla, one of the only members with real restaurant experience, fielding a bunch of questions about cooking techniques, giving advice, and fixing other people’s dishes. This is a huge part of recipe creation, yet was continually discounted. So when it comes to the giant, heavy cookbooks on shelves in my childhood kitchen that I remember staring at as a kid – Good Housekeeping or the Joy of Cooking – should all the credit go to the names on the spines?

 Sources:

Toklas, A. (1954). Crème Renversée à la Cevenole from The Alice B Toklas Cookbook by Alice B. Toklas. Retrieved October 18, 2020, from https://app.ckbk.com/recipe/alic95361c09s001ss009sss001r003/creme-renversee-a-la-cevenole

In Part 17 of The Book of Salt, Miss Toklas and GertrudeStein indulge in “Singapore ice cream” while discussing the Sweet Sunday Man’s behavior around GertrudeStein. However, Miss Toklas notices how the ice cream contains an unusual flavor: “Peppercorns, Miss Toklas. Steep the milk from morning till night with ten coarsely crushed peppercorns. Strain and proceed as usual. The ‘bite’ that the peppercorns leave behind will make the eater take notice, examine this dish of sweet anew” (Truong 186).

Peppercorn, otherwise known as “black pepper,” is derived from a fruit called piper nigrum and is native only to Kerala (located in southwest India). In history, pepper first appears in ancient Greek and Roman archives, which indicates how there might have been trading between India and the West (Butler). Apparently, ancient Romans were the first people to use this spice in food preparation. It was also used as a symbol of wealth. Additionally, excavations from 1000 B.C. demonstrate how trading routes between India and countries in the Middle East had been established (The Spice Academy). Later on, in medieval Europe, Pepper trade routes were owned by Muslim traders and city-states in Italy monopolized imported pepper. Because pepper was expensive to import, pepper was perceived to be a luxurious ingredient. However, after technological breakthroughs in the 17^th century, more trade routes across the globe were created. As a result, pepper became inexpensive and was readily available to people across the world.

While reading this passage in The Book of Salt, I had first interpreted the peppercorns to represent the Sweet Sunday Man’s peculiar, striking behavior around GertrudeStein. When the Sweet Sunday Man converses with GertrudeStein, he abruptly leaves while she is in the middle of talking. Because GertrudeStein’s guests usually never leave while she is speaking, GertrudeStein was taken aback by the Sweet Sunday Man’s actions. Similar to their reactions to the unexpected yet pleasant flavor of peppercorns in the ice cream, GertrudeStein and Miss Toklas are intrigued by the Sweet Sunday Man’s distinct behavior.

However, the peppercorns could also symbolize Binh’s homosexuality as a whole. Going back to what Laur had written in her previous blog post, “Food Makes You Gay,” spicy ingredients deliver a powerful “kick” and “takes the food on a journey that is sometimes painful and intense” (Kim). Truong’s integration of spicy ingredients/food in particular scenes perhaps prompts the readers to think about the evolution of Binh’s identity in those moments.

Works Cited:

Butler, Stephanie. “Off the Spice Rack: The Story of Pepper.” History.com, A&E Television Networks, 17 Jan. 2013, www.history.com/news/off-the-spice-rack-the-story-of-pepper.

Kim, Laur. “Food Makes You Gay.”

The Spice Academy. “Peppercorn: A Very Brief History.” 3 Jan. 2018, thespiceacademy.com/peppercorn-very-brief-history/.

Truong, Monique. The Book of Salt. Houghton Mifflin, 2004.

Ginger has been used for centuries to cure all kinds of ailments and is especially known for curbing nausea. Today, ginger ale is a common remedy for an upset stomach. Ginger was, and is, used in many different ways, including in tea, sauteed in entrees, sprinkled on top of a dish, or crystallized as a sweet treat. 

In The Book of Salt, Binh mentions making ice cream for GertrudeStein and Miss Toklas, with vanilla and crystallized ginger. I’ve never had ginger in ice cream, but I can imagine it adds a nice kick to an otherwise smooth and creamy dessert. 

Ginger was well known across Asia before it travelled to Europe with the Romans via the spice trade. It was most popular in China and India, praised for its ability to cure illnesses. Ginger’s popularity in Europe dropped with the fall of the Roman empire but was revived with Marco Polo, who wrote about its many uses, including crystallized ginger, that he observed when in Asia. The Jewish talmud also has references to ginger, saying it is “of benefit to the entire body.” 

To crystallize ginger, you peel and cut the root and cook it in a simple syrup, usually sugar and water, and then sprinkle it with some more sugar. I’ve also enjoyed it covered in chocolate for a sweet and zesty bite. 

Chandler, Brynne. “What Is Crystallized Ginger?” Healthy Eating | SF Gate, 19 Nov. 2018, healthyeating.sfgate.com/crystallized-ginger-6822.html. 

“Crystallized Ginger.” Bulk Crystallized Ginger | Candied Ginger, Crystalized Ginger, www.spicesinc.com/p-30-crystallized-ginger.aspx. 

“Spice Trade.” Encyclopædia Britannica, Encyclopædia Britannica, Inc., www.britannica.com/topic/spice-trade.

“And contrary to what you still think, Old Man, in Blériot’s blue eyes with the black bursting stars inside, I did not see a promotion, a pay raise for Anh Minh, not even cans of tinned peaches and pears for Má” (Truong, 195-196).

One of the earliest concepts of canned foods was developed during the Napoleonic times, primarily motivated by soldiers going off to war who needed food that would stay fresh for however long they were fighting. It was no longer worth travelling along with weeks worth of supplies and dozen live animals when they could have a lighter, steady supply of food that would not go bad easily or require much skill to make. The original canned food container were tightly sealed alcohol and glass bottles (Barksdale).

As Western colonialist occupation continued in Southeast Asian countries, canned foods became extremely prevalent because Westerners believed that Southeast Asian foods were unclean and also didn’t like how they tasted in contrast to the food they were used to. They preferred to eat canned food because they could have a taste of foods and ingredients from back home, like canned peaches. As well as this, those were factory manufactured and seen as more hygenic (Castillo). Today, canned foods are sealed into aluminum tins and made in greater quantities for much cheaper than during the 1800s.

However, even though canned foods are now inexpensive, especially compared to fresh versions of their contents, Vietnamese laborers such as the three boys Chef Blériot hires make so little money they can hardly afford to buy the dregs of soup, much less tins of syrupy fruit. In the context of this passage from The Book of Salt, Bình thinks that his father believes he had become romantically involved with the chef in order to curry favor and receive spending money or extra pay. The canned peaches and pears would have been a luxury; it is on par with earning more wages and a higher job title.

Colonialism in countries like Vietnam prompted the native people to adapt quickly. For example, canned sardines have become very popular ingredients in Vietnamese street food, despite it being introduced relatively recently by a foreign influence. Now one of the most popular ways to buy food in today’s society, the idea of canned food demonstrates just how much the military and war shape everyday lives all over the globe, whether you’re buying a can of peas at Wegmans in Ithaca, or opening a tin of spam in the Philippines.

Citations

Barksdale, Nate. “How Canned Food Revolutionized The Way We Eat.” History.com, A&E Television Networks, 22 Aug. 2014, www.history.com/news/what-it-says-on-the-tin-a-brief-history-of-canned-food.

Castillo, Elaine. “Colonialism in a Can.” TASTE, 11 Nov. 2019, www.tastecooking.com/colonialism-in-a-can/.

In part 16, Binh describes how his mother’s history and how she met his father. Approaching Lunar New Year, his mom found a tin box of candied lotus seeds in the local schoolhouse. That is when she lays eyes with the Old Man, her own scholar-prince. “Their courtship began like that. Simple. A box of candied lotus seeds sweetened their first sighs of love” (170).

Lotus seeds are mostly harvested from the Indian Lotus species, Nelumbo nucifera. They are mostly eaten in Asia during holidays. Candied lotus seeds a particular specialty in Vietnam during Lunar New Year. Like most foods we have found this semester, these seeds are notable for their health benefits. They pack lots of nutrients and are good at alleviating hypertension. The seeds are also medicinally used to treat insomnia, chronic diarrhea, and irritability.

Candied lotus seeds are prepared simply by boiling the seeds, allowing them to cool, then simmering them in sugar so a syrup forms. During the New Year, candied seeds are often set in a display of other candied fruits and vegetables as a snack but also an offering to ancestors & deities. The seed may be seen as a symbol of growth and change. This might explain its significance to Binh’s mother meeting his father. After her marriage to the Catholic man, their meeting over lotus seeds represented a change in her life story.

Lunar New Year Candy Tray guide

Lotus Seeds

In Chapter 19 of Monique Truong’s The Book of Salt, the narrator Binh describes the early days of his time at rue de Fleures with Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas, and the different standards the two partners have for the cooks working for them. As Binh states, Toklas is an exacting employer in many ways, and she is intimately involved in developing many of the recipes and methods that Binh uses in their kitchen. However, her interest in cooking is simply that: an interest, as opposed to it being a trade and a way of life for Binh. Where Binh has had to rely on his skills and adaptability as a chef since he was young in order to support himself, Toklas is able to flit in and out of that space of labor, only entering it when she chooses to as opposed to being compelled to do so.

During his interview with her, Binh states that the “first thing Miss Toklas asked me was whether I had a recipe for gazpacho” (Truong 193). Upon learning that he does but did not learn it in Spain, Toklas immediately dismisses its quality and lays out guidelines for the kinds of gazpacho that Binh will have to prepare and perfect at rue de Fleures, of which there are apparently four. Binh only mentions two: the gazpacho of Malaga and the gazpacho of Segovia. Both of these are named for cities in different regions of Spain, and thus Toklas appears to place great emphasis on authenticity in the food that is served within her home, as an American expat living in Paris. She imparts to Binh very specific instructions regarding the ingredients and measurements that he must use as he practices making each of the four kinds of gazpacho until they are up to par, in her eyes. 

While gazpacho is, in fact, best known for being a Spanish dish and the history it has there is long and rich, its origins are rooted in the multiculturalism of Spain, and it may in fact have developed out of an old Roman dish. This was a mixture of olive oil, stale bread, and possibly garlic and liquid such as vinegar or water, likely popular due to its use of staple ingredients of these regions. In the Andalusian region of Spain, workers in the fields would have made these mixtures and added whatever fresh vegetables they possessed on hand to pound together with a mortar and pestle to drink room temperature or cold, a refreshing meal on hotter days. Although we associate tomatoes with gazpacho today, the fruit was not in fact known in Europe until after European colonists brought it back from the Americas. Gazpacho can thus be made with a variety of fruits and vegetables, and different cities and regions such as those Toklas names, often boast differing recipes with ingredients such as almonds.

This passage about the very beginnings of their acquaintance provides some level of insight into the employer-employee dynamic between Toklas and Binh, which is layered and fraught with complexity. It is evident that Binh learns a great deal from her, since the lesson about the use of salt in gazpacho and in food in general that Toklas gives him is obviously influential in his cooking process and it seems, in his greater life–the book is, after all, named for the ingredient. And there is a somewhat possessive admiration Binh feels for her and Stein, evident in the way he repeatedly refers to him as his mesdames, as well as a desire for that tenuous circle of family that he is alternately given access to and ordered to draw back from. However, there is also an element of sardonic distance often present in Binh’s discussion of his employers, an awareness that he has lived through and understood both life and food and travel in ways they could not possibly know, as well as the fact that their personhood is, to them, realer and more assured than his is both in their eyes and those of the Western world.

Works Cited

“Gazpacho.” Andalucia.com, 17 June 2020, www.andalucia.com/gastronomy/gazpacho.htm.

Kern, Peg. “Spain Food Tours: History of Gazpacho: The Intl Kitchen Culinary Tours.” The International Kitchen, 9 June 2020, www.theinternationalkitchen.com/blog/history-of-gazpacho-spain-food-tours/.

Toklas, Alice B. “Gazpacho of Segovia from The Alice B Toklas Cookbook by Alice B. Toklas.” Ckbk, app.ckbk.com/recipe/alic95361c05s001r004/gazpacho-of-segovia.

Truong, Monique. The Book of Salt. 2013.

Hi!

Recently I’ve been trying to find local community resources that work with premises of identity and self. Being a transracial adoptee and living in a biracial family, it’s become more important to me to learn how, on the community level, these differences are brought to light, documented, and work in dialogue. I found this interesting organization through Instagram called Midwest Mixed. It’s based in Minneapolis, I think (I’m from Minnesota), and its mission is to “use dialogue, alternative education, & artistic expression to support mixed people & transracial adoptees of color to learn through an intersectional framework, heal racial trauma, and build community solidarity in the struggle for equity and justice.” Going through high school and now college, I’ve gotten used to the idea of affinity groups that support singular identifications, but it’s been pretty new to me to find networks that focus on the intersections and stories of mixed people. I thought this could be relevant to our class, given the title and topics we’ve covered. I’d love to know if anyone else knows about similar resources they’re familiar with or have learned about recently, too.

Website: https://www.midwestmixed.com/about

Jane J.