“‘What is your secret?’
Nutmeg! I lie. An important disclosure, they always think. They all believe in a ‘secret’ ingredient, a balm for their Gallic pride, a magic elixir that anyone can employ to duplicate my success. Its existence downplays my skills, cheapens my worth. Its very existence threatens my own.
If there is a ‘secret,’ Madame, it is this: Repetition and routine. Servitude and subservience. Beck and call” (Truong 154)
In Part 15 of the Book of Salt, Binh’s cynicism towards the French aristocrats he serves continues to reveal itself. While giving readers another lesson in culinary expertise–the simplest meals can reveal true skills–on omelets, Bin recalls the oft received question after first bite of his magnificent omelets: “What is your secret?” To amuse himself while assuaging his jury, a common tactic (coping mechanism?) used by Binh, he lies and tells them nutmeg is his secret ingredient.
Nutmeg is a spice made from two parts of the nutmeg tree fruit, the seed and the shell (Filippone). Its origins begin in the Banda islands within the larger grouping of Maluka islands in the Eastern part of Indonesia. Historians cite nutmegs as one of the bloodiest goods in the spice trade, wherein Dutch colonizers massacred many of the Banda island’s indigenous inhabitants to secure a stronghold on the spice’s export. The Western European demand that fueled such violence coveted nutmeg for multiple reasons: its flavor, supposed body heating properties, and mind-altering affects. Only the wealthy could afford nutmeg in concentrations enough to induce hallucinations, and even smaller, pedestrian amounts of nutmeg were expensive (Aubrey).
That Binh chooses nutmeg to play the role of a “magic elixir that anyone can employ to duplicate my success,” whose “existence threatens my own,” speaks to a larger theme within the novel in which Binh and his Vietnamese peers’ livelihoods, post-colonisation rely upon the decadent expenses of France’s elites. When diners eating Binh’s cooking ask for the secret, rather than the false nutmeg ingredient itself, they question and perhaps cruelly remind Binh that his life and work rest on a foundation of servitude and subjugation. Binh’s vast cooking knowledge was a necessary tool to acquire under French colonialism, one of the few tools offered. This performative engagement between guest and chef is yet another motion through which class hierarchies are reasserted and solidified.
Aubrey, Allison. “No Innocent Spice: The Secret Story of Nutmeg, Life and Death.” NPR News, npr.org, 26 November 2012. https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2012/11/26/165657050/no-innocent-spice-the-secret-story-of-nutmeg-life-and-death
Filippone, Peggy Trowbridge. “Nutmeg and Mace History.” the Spruce Eats, thespruceeats.com, 14 August 2019. https://www.thespruceeats.com/nutmeg-and-mace-history-1807632#:~:text=The%20Origin%20of%20Nutmeg%20and,%2C%20and%20muscat%2C%20meaning%20musky.
Truong, Monique. The Book of Salt. Mariner Books, New York, 2004.