“When I am abandoned by their sweet-voiced catechism, I forget how long to braise the ribs of beef” (Truong, 20). This excerpt from the beginning of The Book of Salt comes from Bình’s reflection upon his work with “collectors.” They have strict rules about how to cook and seem only to care about how Bình’s (and previous chefs’) past trauma translates into his cooking, rather than his emotion and character alone. By staying and working for them, Bình would not have been able to explore his skills and take culinary risks, which seems counterproductive for cooks because many of the best dishes were created on accident. The first dish I thought of upon reading this section was lemongrass beef ribs. It has always been a side dish staple for my brother and my orders of rice dishes at Vietnamese restaurants since we were young. Lemongrass, the herb that gives the recipe its unique flavor, is found mostly in and around Oceania and South/Southeast Asia. There are two types, called West Indian and East Indian lemongrass, and both are generally found in those aforementioned regions. Used not only in cooking but also medicine, it is revered as an important ingredient because of its ability to aid digestion among other health benefits and is used in many cuisines of the part of the world it is native to, including in Vietnam, Thailand, and Sri Lanka. However, lemongrass is not a very popular ingredient outside of the areas discussed earlier, especially in Europe and North America. I thought that the inclusion of this ingredient and its implications towards certain Vietnamese dishes spoke to Truong’s attempt to reconcile Bình with leaving Vietnam and now having to cook French food instead of traditional dishes from home. By working for the collectors, Bình feels he is losing his authenticity and self. Lemongrass beef ribs is a dish I myself have found myself longing for during cold winters in upstate New York but I would be hard pressed to find it or the ingredients here, unless I go to the few and far between Vietnamese restaurants and Asian grocery stores in Ithaca.
Here are two recipes I found, if anyone’s interested in making lemongrass beef ribs! – https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1017979-vietnamese-braised-pork-ribs and https://irenamacri.com/recipes/lemongrass-beef-short-ribs/
Sources:
Grant, Bonnie. “Uses For Lemongrass” StackPath, 5 July 2018, blog.gardeningknowhow.com/tbt/lemongrass-history-and-uses/.
“Lemongrass Oil – History, Usage, and Benefits of Essential Oil.” Lemongrass Oil, New Directions Aromatics Blog, 1 June 2017, www.newdirectionsaromatics.com/blog/products/all-about-lemongrass-oil.html.