What a great experience!

We just came back from a wonderful and enriching experience in Siem Reap.  In this blog, we will give you an overview of all we did and  learned. It’s something we will always remember.

We’d like to thank AboutAsia Travel and AboutAsia Schools for helping us to organize such a memorable trip.  For more information about Cambodia and our trip, please see http://blogs.cornell.edu/siemreapmasterclass/.

Day 1: An Account of Day One of Our Siem Reap Master Class

GETTING READY FOR SIEM REAP!

28 February 2011 – a long awaited date and a very special day for so many of us who were looking forward to making our way to the city of Siem Reap in the Kingdom of Cambodia for our master class. It was a flurry of excitement, from buying plane tickets back when we were in Ithaca to packing for a 5-day survival trip in hot and steamy Siem Reap. More importantly, it was also a day where we would be having a reunion of sorts as a class after serving out our internships and being apart for 2 months.

The buzz was in the air, and we were all excited over who’s going to be sitting next to whom in the flight. The diligent ones in the class checked-in online early while the the rest left it to the system to assigned random seats.  We were all boarding a full SilkAir flight out of Changi International Airport Terminal 2 on flight MI633, departing Singapore at 1435hrs and arriving in Siem Reap at 1545hrs. And being the hungry travellers that we were, no flight out of Changi Airport was going to be complete without us chomping away burgers at good ol’ McDonalds first!

Happy people at MacDonalds- giving new meaning to the term “Happy Meal”

Happy people at MacDonalds- giving new meaning to the term “Happy Meal”

Outside the boarding gates and getting ready to board!

Outside the boarding gates and getting ready to board!

Settling down during pre-boarding

Settling down during pre-boarding

Filling out visas and declaration forms before arrival

Filling out visas and declaration forms before arrival

Two hours & five minutes,  and another meal of chicken with pasta(not forgetting coffee!) later, we arrived and it’s Welcome to Siem Reap! We were, of course, given the royal treatment with an attentive immigration officer attending to our whole group. The officer collected all our passports along with our USD20 visa arrival fee, and pretty much walked us through immigration. Imagine – no queueing! After which, we were warmly welcomed by Kanya (from AboutAsia Travel), a local Cambodian who would be our guide (and nanny) for the next 5 days.

Group shot right off the tarmac

Group shot right off the tarmac

Siem Reap International with it's distinct architectural style

Siem Reap International with it's distinct architectural style

Welcome to Siem Reap

Welcome to Siem Reap

SETTLING IN  AT THE RAFFLES GRAND HOTEL D’ ANGKOR

Less than 15 mins later, we arrived at the Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor and met up with Manish, Saroj and Professor Kimes who had all arrived the weekend earlier. The VIP treatment continued, with a blisfully refreshing signature welcome mocktail and an icy cold towel, as well as check-in key packets ready for all of us. We were assigned rooms on the 2nd and 3rd levels, with handwritten welcome cards as well as tropical fruit platters welcoming us as we entered our rooms; a Rafflesian welcome indeed!

"Welcome to Raffles, Class. Good to see all of you again! Yash and Tan-Chi, please behave!"

"Welcome to Raffles, class. Good to see all of you again! Yash and Tan-Chi, please behave!"

PS: They managed to get Dylan’s full name 90% correct.  They had to truncate it because it is simply too long!

PS: They managed to get Dylan’s full name 90% correct. They had to truncate it because it's simply too long!

A tour of the Raffles was arranged and we were shown around the property by Chris, the Assistant Front Office Manager.  We had the opportunity to view the Cabana Suites, Landmark Rooms, Personality Suites as well as the Uma Suite, one of the biggest suite in the hotel. The next largest suite, the Kama Suite, was unfortunately not available for viewing because it was roomed by Professor Kimes who was graciously upgraded to a larger accommodation by the hotel. Of course, we could have easily gotten our own upgrade with an additional USD 2400 per night if anyone was interested. Too bad that there were no takers…

Back view of the main wing overlooking the pool

Back view of the main wing overlooking the pool

Door plaque for the Villa Uma, the largest suite in Raffles Hotel

Door plaque for the Villa Uma, the largest suite in Raffles Hotel

The Uma Suite was decorated in warm wooden furnishing with classic art-deco designs and motifs. It has two bedrooms (one with a King bed and another with Twin beds) and 2 separate attached bathrooms that were easily larger than any of the rooms that some of us were staying in back in Graduate Hall in NTU. It also goes without saying that the Villa Uma comes with a butler who is available 24 hours.

Pillow set-up in Uma Suite. Pillows, pillows and more pillows! Now, how many pillows would one need and where would one place the pillows when one doesn't need them??

Pillow set-up in Uma Suite. Pillows, pillows and more pillows! Now, how many pillows would one need and where would one place the pillows when one doesn't need them??

The hotel tour also brought us to the Elephant Bar, a cosy bar with pool tables and smooth piped-in music. When we were there, there wasn’t too much going on but perhaps it was still too early in the evening. And we reckon no one in the group managed to sneak a try of the famed Airavata cocktail either.

Beautiful welcome centerpiece at the Elephant Bar

Beautiful welcome centerpiece at the Elephant Bar

FIRST NIGHT OUT IN SIEM REAP

We had our first evening free as there was a slight amendment to our itinerary (we were supposed to have our welcome dinner at the Sugar Palm Restaurant), and  we were all over Pub Street – the tourist hotspot that was recommended by Andy Boot (founder of AboutAsia Travel). Everyone was out and about in Pub Street having dinner and having a first feel of Siem Reap’s night life. It was then that our smaller group had a first taste of amok – a local culinary signature. The food aficionados amongst us were trying hard to define what made Khmerr cuisine distinct, given that its cuisine has regional influences from neighbouring countries like Vietnam, Thailand and even India. To be honest – after several tries of amok, coconut soup and plenty of Sdeang Srey Cocktails later, we still could not figure out the Khmer cuisine.

Dummy's guide to the local night market

Dummy's guide to the local night market

We then had a go at the night market and were very surprised by the bustling sights and sounds everywhere, easily rivalling the night markets in Bangkok!

Local expertise – Dr Fish Massage

Local expertise – Dr Fish Massage

Yash covering his bits while attempting his version of the famed Zoolander Blue Steel pose

Yash covering his bits while attempting his version of the famed Zoolander Blue Steel pose

After a long day, we capped the night off with delectable desserts at the Blue Pumpkin, a local icre-cream parlour.  The icre-cream treats were a reprieve given the temperature and humidity, and we were all happily sharing desserts after stuffing ourselves silly with amok earlier. Definitely a sweet way to conclude our first night in Siem Reap.

Duta’s dessert of two boules of sherbet with a chocolate stick in the middle. Interesting presentation that is so appropriate for Duta, wouldn’t you say?

Duta’s dessert of two boules of sherbet with a chocolate stick in the middle. Interesting presentation that is so appropriate for Duta, wouldn’t you say?

~ Dylan & Duta

Day 1: Arrival tour of Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor

After checking into the hotel, we were given a tour of the storied Raffles Hotel, which began in the timeless lobby overlooking the property’s Pool and Spa.

Arrival in lobby overlooking the pool

Next, through the marble corridor to the Hotel Suites…

Corridor connecting lobby to rooms

To the famous Elephant Bar…

Elephant

Elephant Bar

To the Guest Suites via the famous restored elevator…

Hotel Tour

Restored Elevator

Restored Elevator

The stunning Guest Suites adjacent to the pool…

Guest Suites3

Guest Suites4

Lastly, to fully maximize and personalize the guest experience, each room greets its guest with a hand-written welcome letter…

Personalized welcome letter

Personalized welcome letter

Day 2: Visit to Ta Prohm and Angkor Vat

Day 2 – The excitement begins with our visit to the places Siem Reap is known for the Ta Prohm and Angkor Vat.

Ta Prohm is one of Cambodia’s most impressive of all the and was one of the most important temples in Jayavarman VII’s huge ambition to build a massive temple complex within Angkor. It was actually not only a temple but a monastery also, with 12,640 people living within. Its size was much greater than this though, being a city in its own right once upon a time. The outer wall measures 1km by 650 meters, and almost 80,000 people lived outside of the city wall in the surroundings of the temple.

If your eyes, you can imagine life in the Angkor kingdom within Ta Prohm unfolding before your eyes. The unique and special beauty of Ta Prohm is its decadence, its apparent lack of care, its having been forgotten and left to the elements. The temple was actually selected to be ‘preserved’ and not restored, in order to maintain its original credentials and show how it would have looked when discovered back in the 19th century, so this is in effect intentional to a certain degree. Whether or not it was foreseen, the beauty and mystical ambience of Ta Prohm is enhanced by the interwreathing of nature around these ancient structures. Silk cotton trees and strangler figs have laid claim to the site, the arteries of which weave through the bricks and foundations. In the short term they offer strength to the buildings, but unfortunately they are only temporary support, as once they perish the bricks or stones they support collapse around them. For those film buffs amongst you, this is where Tomb Raider was filmed, due to its outstanding aesthetic. The temple is large and quite tricky to navigate, and you may have your path blocked by intruding goats or cows from the nearby villages. At each of the four cardinal points there are gopuras to enter the temple. Giant carved heads like those found at the Bayon or entrances to Angkor Thom still exist, but most have completely collapsed now, however some very ornate carvings of Dvarapala remain in places. Gopura IV is a very interesting entrance due to its long double pillars and tall bas-reliefs with depictions of Buddha’s life. In order to follow a congruent path through the temple however the east gopura would be the best through which to enter. Nearby are the remains of a ‘house of fire’ or ‘Dharmasala’, a rest house for pilgrims, similar to that of Preah Khan. Once through the east gopura, nearby can be found the Hall of Dancers – a large courtyard used for shows of dancing and decorated with apsara sculptures. In the inner enclosure are some intricate devatas adorning the gallery walls, and within the enclosure are projecting porches which will take you from one side of the compact central sanctuary to the other. There is also a wonderful pediment depicting the ‘Great Departure’, or a depiction of the moment in Buddha’s life when he leaves the city, and other divinities grasp his horse’s feet, presumably to silence the sound of their feet. On gopura three, there is even a carving of a stegosaur, however there is no historical evidence that this was neither a Buddhist nor Hindu symbol.

The Great Angkor Vat – Since the publicized in the mid 19th century, it has been described as the largest religious building in the world. The temple is located just over 6km from Siem Reap, is the centrepiece of the Angkor Archaeological Park, and has been UNESCO listed as a world heritage site since 1992.

East Side

East Side

The head of Buddha stolen by robbers

The head of Buddha stolen by robbers

One of the largest Angkor temples, Angkor Wat was built under King Suryavarman II in the early 12th century. Originally built as a temple to Vishnu, it has been in continuous use as a Buddhist shrine since the adoption of Theravada Buddhism by the Khmer people, meaning it has remained in excellent condition over the centuries. Because of its symbolic representation of ancient Khmer nationhood, the temple survived the Khmer Rouge years relatively undamaged, and tourist numbers have increased steadily since the political situation stabilised.

Scene from MahabharataOriginal color from 14th century

The Khmer welcome

The Khmer welcome

Courtesy – http://www.aboutasiatravel.com/cambodia/guide/angkor-temple/angkor-wat/angkor-wat.htm

Sachin & Manish

For more pictures please use this link :  http://www.flickr.com/photos/60511747@N08/with/5514589721/

Day 2: Siem Reap Hotel tours

Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf and Spa Resort

This is one of the bigger hotels visited, with 238 keys divided into 5 categories. A popular choice for group reservations, this hotel sees many of its guests from Korea and China. During peak seasons, occupancy rates can soar to the high nineties, while dropping to 40 – 60% during low seasons.

The hotel has a large pond in the centre of the property, surrounded by a great variety of flowers, trees and greenery. In a tropical country like Cambodia, the 1,400 trees in Sofitel Angkor provide shade and adds an aesthetic touch to the compound. In the centre of the pond is a ‘hut’ for holding an intimate dinner or private party. The standard rooms are 46 sqm each selling at US$250.

This wonderful hotel is supported by 350 full-time staff. The pay of the staff is supplemented by a service charge that can range from US$90 to US$150 per month. The sales team is located in Penom Penh.

The potraits are created by Khmer artists and changed every month

Sofitel Lobby:The potraits are created by Khmer artists and changed every month

Sofitel lobby - Live traditional music is played by Khmer artists

Sofitel lobby - Live traditional music is played by Khmer artists

Fresh flowers in Sofitel Lobby are an excellent touch

Fresh flowers in Sofitel Lobby are an excellent touch

The Resident Manager at Sofitel providing CNI students with the hotel facts and features

The Resident Manager at Sofitel providing CNI students with the hotel facts and features

The french fine dining restaurant at Sofitel has a very intimate and private setting

The french fine dining restaurant at Sofitel has a very intimate and private setting

The french restaurant has a very romantic setting within a lotus pond

The french restaurant has a very romantic setting within a lotus pon

The ballroom at Sofitel gives it a major competitive advantage

The ballroom at Sofitel gives it a major competitive advantage

The exotic couples spa room at Sofitel

The exotic couples spa room at Sofitel

Sofitel has made use of a lot of wood in the interiors to provide a more natural and distinct outlook

Sofitel has made use of a lot of wood in the interiors to provide a more natural and distinct outlook

Sofitel standard room

Sofitel standard room

La Residence d’Angkor

After a long day touring Angkor Wat, a guest finds instant relaxation amidst the lush greenery surrounding the salt-water swimming pool that he is soaking in. This is La Residence d’Angkor, a 62- key boutique luxury hotel situated 20 min from the Siem Reap airport. Its main guests hail from the Americas and Europe, and is also a favourite place for romantic getaways and honeymoons.

In Sep 2009, the hotel spent US$4 million to built a new spa centre with suite, entrenching the property deeper as one of the leading premium spa destinations in Siem Reap. A spa package, together with the suite, can cost around US$600 per day. For those who are not keen to pamper themselves, the ADRs range from US$170 during low season, to US$300 during high season.

Outof the 62 rooms of the hotels, 8 are suites with floor areas between 110 sqm to 127 sqm. Service isdefinitely top notch, with a rating of almost a full 5 stars by 217 reviews on Tripadvisor

Guests at Residence DAngkor are welcomed into a calm and serene porch surrounded by pristine landscaping

Guests at Residence D'Angkor are welcomed into a calm and serene porch surrounded by pristine landscaping

Residence DAngkor lobby

Residence D'Angkor lobby

The pool at Residence DAngkor

The pool at Residence D'Angkor

The rooms are designed keeping the Khmer elements into perspective

The rooms are designed keeping the Khmer elements into perspective

Every room comes equipped with a large bath tub overlooking onto the window

Every room comes equipped with a large bath tub overlooking onto the window

All rooms at Residence DAngkor come with small verandahs : a perfect place to catch up on a novel

All rooms at Residence D'Angkor come with small verandahs : a perfect place to catch up on a novel

The restaurant at Residence DAngkor has live Khmer cultural performances every evening

The restaurant at Residence D'Angkor has live Khmer cultural performances every evening

Business Center at Residence DAngkor

Business Center at Residence D'Angkor

The spa has an indoor pool for guests to relax after a soothing massage

The spa has an indoor pool for guests to relax after a soothing massage

CNI Class of 2011

CNI Class of 2011

Hôtel de la Paix

This is a 107-key privately owned hotel that sits at a major cross junction and attracts by passers’attention with its clean lines and art deco architecture. Moving from the exterior to the interior,a guest will be intrigued by the art pieces in its lobby. As seen during the Master Class visit, the recessed lobby floor was filled with a thin layer of water to create a clear reflection of the hanging art pieces. Other stunning art displays in the past included a red eagle made of rifle nozzles
swooping just above the lobby floor . As what the Director of Sales and Marketing, Christian deBoer, has told the Master Class, the hotel’s philosophy is to serve the guests with sincerity and pride.This is strongly reflected by a respectable 4.5 stars out of 5 in the Tripadvisor ratings. In its pursuitto stay at the fore front of Siem Reap’s hospitality industry, the hotel has invested in technology to enhance the guests’ experience. Currently, all rooms have iPods and docking stations, with an additional 25 iPads being ordered for the suites.

Hotel de La Paix has won 11 awards in 2010, including the Conde Nast Traveler “World SaverAwards”, for its efforts in corporate social responsibility (CSR). Another notable accolade was its 6th ranking in Travel + Leisure World’s Best Awards list of Top Resorts in Asia. The main CSR of de la Paix is the running of a sewing school in Siem Reap, that trains young Khmer women not only sewing skills, but also reading and writing of the Khmer script and English. This is done through a collaboration with MasterCard and the monks at Life & Hope Association in 2007.

The lobby at Hotel de la Paix serves as an art gallery for Khmer artists to display their works

The lobby at Hotel de la Paix serves as an art gallery for Khmer artists to display their works

The central courtyard at Hotel De La Paix

Christian explaining the USPs of Hotel De La Paix to the CNI class

Christian explaining the USP's of Hotel De La Paix to the CNI class

Art displays in public areas

Art displays in public areas

Hotel De La Paix is actively taking part in various community improvement initiatives

Hotel De La Paix is actively taking part in various community improvement initiatives

The rooms have a modern boutique feel

The rooms have a modern boutique feel

The bathrooms make use of various Khmer design elements

The bathrooms make use of various Khmer design elements

– Seah Kai and Yash Bhanage

Day 3: Dawn at Angkor Wat & School Painting

Waking up at 5am!? 5am as a time zone is best recognised by most of us as the late night hour-when we have to unwillingly end our parties rather than as an hour when we board a bus and leave for a class meeting! But we actually pulled this off in Siem Reap and wow what a breath-taking experience it was!
Most of us have witnessed some special sun-rises in our lives. The spectacular views when a gorgeous orange glow and different hues of gold and red fill the horizon. On the Wednesday morning at Siem Reap, watching the sun appear from behind the majestic Angkor Wat was special! Apart from a spectacular spread of colors, the touching serenity of the temple grounds, the genuine smiles of the local people and the lovely cool breeze made it extraordinary. This dawn will linger in our memories for a long time.

Before day-break

First glimpse of color

Breathtaking

The sunrise

Temple view

The class intended to do yoga and other physical activities at the venue but the walk from the bus and the amazing atmosphere at the grounds of the temple persuaded us to just enjoy the experience of lingering by sitting comfortably on the yoga-mats. We made up for the exercise by posing in different yoga poses for the camera! When the excitement of the day-break was over and we had clicked enough pictures from the various cameras, it was time to return to the hotel for some food and a quick-change. Everyone was excited about the trip back to the hotel, it not only meant food but a re-union with some of our classmates. Three of our classmates had incidentally wandered off the group and there is no doubt that this story of “getting lost” will haunt them for a long time. The additional excitement for the day was in the agenda we had lined up. It was the day we would begin our contribution to sustainability by taking part in the “paint-a school” challenge.

Reaching the hotel cafe, we promptly filled our plates at the cafe. The Breakfasts at the Raffles hotel Cafe are an event in themselves; there is every kind of food imaginable at the breakfast buffet. One can easily fill his or her stomach just by tasting all the items on the offer. Every variety of morning bakeries, all kinds of cereals, made to order eggs and noodles, an extravagant variety of tropical fruits, juices, jams, preserves etc- the breakfast was total indulgence! In fact the Cafe breakfast even had champagne for those who want to convert a weekday breakfast into a weekend brunch. However, our class was too excited by the day’s itinerary to even think of drinking. We all donned our pink tee-shirts and boarded the bus to go to school to start our agenda for the day-Painting a local school!
After fulfilling our palates with delectable breakfast at The Raffles, we were fully energized and ready for our next painting-a-school challenge. We happily rode on bus in pink t-shirts with huge Angkor Beer logo. Outside observers will be forgiven for thinking we were from the beer company fulfilling our corporate social responsibility. Our destination for the day was a primary and secondary school located in the rural area from Siem Reap. On the bus, Chris Smith, volunteer coordinator of AboutAsia Schools told us that the organization was founded with a mission to provide Cambodian children with an education to uplift their standard of living.

Two areas they do this are by:
1. Providing volunteer teachers and assistants
2. Providing supplies, equipment, uniforms and facility support.

Currently, About Asia Schools provides aid to 25 schools and 12,500 students. This year (December 2011), their target is to help 36,000 students. In Siem Reap, the main industry is tourism. Unless children and young adults learn to speak foreign languages, they would continue to struggle making ends meet by toiling in rice fields and/or fishing. The only exit to a bright future is therefore through education. Again, without the aid from outside agencies like AboutAsia, the local people cannot afford $5 for a compulsory school uniform. The $5 needed for the uniform is an expenditure that these poor families cannot afford.

Busy classrooms

As we looked out the window seeing arid red soil and cattle on the field, we could not help thinking how fortunate are and how our daily preoccupations are so miniscule compared to everyday hardship the children in a developing country like Cambodia face. As the bus arrived, we were greeted by young school children in uniforms and slippers. Their excitement to meet us glowed on their faces with wide genuine smiles that warmly touched our hearts. While a group of us played with the kids, some turned to mix paint and distribute brushes. Roller brushes, small brushers and little paint containers were distributed to everyone. We quickly divided into two teams, one painting the school gate wall from the right end and another from the left end.

Before painting

Curious Children

Everyone was enthusiastic and determined to help out. Being tallest in our class, Yash quickly used the roller to paint the top wall. Mark was equally focused on the side wall. Being more detail oriented Clara, Sarah, Dylan and Wei carefully painted scripts on the wall while Sachin, Tan-Chi, Yosuke and Saurabh were busy with balustrades. Even Prof Kimes was not to be left behind, she too jumped into the activity and helped both teams equally! We were soon joined by the Principal of the school in the painting. Everyone was willingly diligent in making their contribution to this worthy cause. Very soon many of us found our specialisations-Kai and Manish used the roller brushes really well and were being called by all for the finishing touches. Duta was nominated the head of one of the teams and he kept a watchful eye on the progress of work. We painted one side and switched to the other while waiting for the first side to dry up a little before putting the second coat.

All at work

Fully painted fence

It was such a rewarding experience to see how together we can make an impact, although this impact was small to begin with. On the way back to the hotel, we were all wondering how it would be good to be more involved. Luckily, Chris let us know some ways we can help:
1. Make donation to buy school uniforms and supplies
2. Volunteer to teach informal English
3. Volunteer to teach vocational education such as computer training, restaurant & hospitality services
4. Volunteer to maintain and improve facilities such as painting or landscaping

Here is calling on all CNI (MMH in Asia) class of 2011, let’s get together to help Cambodian children for a longer term. Let’s take on our next big challenge and be the legend!

The best painters in town

Linibel and I have included pictures in our post, for more pictures of school painting you may also visit the post by our official photographer Qian at http:// blogs.cornell.edu/siemreapmasterclass/2011/03/03/school-painting-siem-reap-2-march-2011/

Linibel and Saroj

Day 3: An account of Wednesday afternoon’s visit to Angkor Thom

After the wonderful lunch at school, we were transported to another temple attraction in the afternoon: Angkor Thom.

Angkor Thom Map

Angkor Thom Map

Angkor Thom Entrances

Angkor Thom means “the great city” in Khmer, and it is built by Angkor’s greatest king, Jayavarman VII (reigned 1181-1219). Angkor Thom is surrounded by a square wall with a gate on each side and a moat (which was completely dry during the dry season when we visited). According to our tour guide, the moat is believed to contain crocodiles in the old days to protect the city.

After getting out from bus and walked for about 3 minutes, we arrived at the first attraction of Angkor Thom – The Victory Way and Victory Gate.

The Victory Way and The Victory Gate

The Victory Way and The Victory Gate

Walking in the Victory Way

Walking in the Victory Way

Along both sides of the Victory Way, there are statues of gods and demons holding the body of a giant naga, the Hindu creation myth of Churning of the Ocean of Milk. Most of the statues are headless nowadays, either being stolen or destroyed.

At the end of the Victory Way is the 8-meter tall Victory Gate which has guided the city since the 12th century. This is one of the five gateways into Angkor Thom. The name of the Victory Gate is from the legend where the king welcomed his army back from victory through the gate. Also, at the side of gate, you can clearly see the three-headed elephant plucking lotus flowers which are well-restored.

Headless statue along the victory ay

Headless statue along the Victory Way

The Victory Gate

The Victory Gate

Yosuke and Sarah at the three-headed elephant

Yosuke and Sarah at the three-headed elephant

We walked along the wall of Angkor Thom, admiring its magnificence. After 15 minutes, we reached another gate of Angkor Thom-the East Gate or the Death Gate. (Or, according to Professor Kimes, the Gate to Hell!)

It is called the Death Gate because convicts were sent here to be executed. At the top of the gate, you can clearly see carved faces and the statues of naga.

The Death Gate, which appeared in Tomb Raider!

The Death Gate, which appeared in Tomb Raider!

We took a bus from there and traveled to the Terrace of the Leper King and the Terrace of the Elephants

Terrace of the Leaper King

After entering Angkor Thom from the Victory Gate, we arrived at the Terrace of the Leper King, whose name is derived from the statue of King Yasovarman sitting atop the terrace. King Yasovarman is called the Leper King because he died of leprosy in the 10th century. Some other scholars suggested that the statue represents Hindu god of death, Yama.

Tour guide told us that the statue we saw is a replica. The original one is now at the Cambodia National Museum in Phnom Penh. Both the original statue and this replica have two missing fingers, which indicate leprosy.

Statue of the Leper King

Statue of the Leper King

We got onto the top of the terrace by passing through a narrow passage between the richly decorated walls surrounding the terrace. These walls are 6 meters high and are carved with bas-reliefs that represent apsaras, nagas and other mythological creatures. Carvings facing outside have been largely eroded by the rain, but on the inner walls, we were able to see very clear apsara carvings.

Apsaras on the inner wall of the Terrace of the Leper King

Apsaras on the inner wall of the Terrace of the Leper King

Terrace of the Elephants

The Terrace of the Elephant is used for celebration and ceremony. It is a great platform that King and his guests can sit on to see the performance or welcome the victorious army. The wall of elephant terrace is decorated with the life-sized garudas (bird-like creatures with human face and eagle’s beak) and lions supporting the terrace.

Terrace of the Elephants

Terrace of the Elephants

Garuda and Lion on the wall

Garuda and Lion on the wall

Bayon Temple

After the Terrace of the Elephants, we walked to the south to visit the most famous feature in Angkor Thom, the Bayon Temple. Situated in the exact center of Angkor Thom, Bayon was built at the peak of the Khmer empire by King Jayavarman VII in the late 12th century. It was a temple originally dedicated to Mahayana Buddhism. However, after Jayavarman VII’s death, the temple was modified by subsequent Hindu and Theravada Buddhist kings to suit their own religious preferences.

From the entrance, Bayon Temple is simply magnificent. Tour guide told us that the temple originally had 54 towers, but now only 37 remains. Each tower hosts 4 gigantic faces, one on each side.

Group photo at Bayon

Group photo at Bayon

We climbed the steep stone steps onto the second level of the temple where we could admire the faces from a close distance. Carved on huge sandstones, all of these faces pose a peaceful smile, which have been dubbed as the “Mona Lisa of Southeast Asia”. There are many excellent photo opportunities at Bayon. At one spot, the tour guide helped me to take a photo with my nose “touching” the nose of a Buddha face in the distance.

Personally, I liked Bayon more than Angkor Wat because of its distinctive characteristics and the peacefulness I felt inside the temple.

Bayon temple

Bayon temple

The peaceful "Khmer Smile" at Bayon

The peaceful "Khmer Smile" at Bayon

By Qian and Tan-Chi

Day 3: Apsara Dinner

After another lively day full of activities such as sunrise viewing, school painting, temple visiting, and sunset picnicking, we ended this eventful day with a class dinner watching the Apsara dances.  We were fortunate to get to enjoy the performance of the traditional Khmer dances and Bokator Khmer martial arts while devouring the barbeque pan-Asian buffet style of dinner which took place in the gardens of Raffles Grand Hotel.

Which dance was your favorite?  Here’s the recap of the six dances:

1. Ken Dance

Ken is a windpipe musical instrument made of a small bunch of bamboos. This dance generates from northern Cambodia in Steung Traeng, which is located at the Cambodian-Laotian border. Especially young males and females often use Ken as a tool to send tunes of romantic messages to one another.

2. Monimekhala (The Lightening Lady)

Monimekhala is a goddess of the ocean and Khaknaso was a giant. They were trainees of Ayso, the martial art teacher. At the end of the training, Monimekhala was awarded a diamond of thundering and lightening and Khaknaso was awarded a magic axe. Khaknaso was jealous with Monimekhala who got the best award, he fights her for it.
Monimekhala
3. Crabbs Dance

The Crabbs dance is another dance which originates from the Southeast. Crabbs are two flat pieces of smooth bamboo used by the performers to keep the tempo of the dance. Every time the men get too near, the women will elbow them in defense.
Crabbs Dance (the elbow dance)

4. Pailin Peacock Dance

People in Pailin, a town of previous stones in Battambang province, which is located at the Cambodian-Thai border, earn their living by planting coffee, fruit, and vine. However their most important business is to dig up previous stones from underground mine. After the harvest season, people take time off to entertain among themselves. They observed the nature of the peacocks and created a dance called “Peacock Pailin”.
Pailin Peacock Dance

5. Bokator (the Angkorean Martial Art)

Bokator is the martial art of ancient Cambodia, can be seen depicted in bas-relief on the walls of Angkor Wat. A hand-to-hand combat system used by the ancient Angkorean army, Bokator fighters Known as yuthkun, each based on the fighting motions of a particular animal like: monkey, lion, elephant, crocodile, crab, horse, bird, and dragon.

6. Apsara Dance

Apsara or Celestial Dances are featured by the thousands at the ancient temples of Angkor. Apsara were reputed to be friendly, playful and danced for the gods in order to encourage rain, good crops, prosperity, and protection of the Kingdom.
Apsara Dance 2
Apsara Dance 1

Apsara dinner and stage setting
CNI crew at dinner and Professor Kimes

Hungry faces at dinner
Happy faces after dinner

CNI crew and the apsara dancers

CNI crew and the Apsara dancers

Wasn’t it a great way to end our day with delicious dinner and delightful performance?

~ by Sarah Widjaja and Stella Chen

Day 4: Excursion to Kompong Kleang

Living on Waters

This is a place where houses are built on stilts because the area becomes flooded during rainy seasons. This is a place where boats are not just a mode of transportation, but a home to all. This is a place where grocery marketing transactions take place over waters. This is a place children take boats to go to that blue school on waters. This is Kompong Kleang, Siem Reap’s biggest village on the Tonle Sap Lake.

130

Houses by the lake

119

Pagoda

139

An English School

Located on the northern lake-edge about 35km east of Siem Reap town (about 1.5 hour bus ride from the Raffles hotel), Kompong Kleang is home to over 20,000 people. At the centre of the village lies a bustling market, one of several pagodas, a school and health centre. Kompong Klean in dry and wet seasons promises vastly different views. While we saw houses up to 10 meters in the air during this trip, our tour guide shared with us that waters rise to within one or two metres of the buildings during the wet season.

159

The Dock

145

A house in the making

121

Villagers transporting their goods across the bridge


Upon reaching the edge of the lake on bus, we boarded a modest boat for a relaxing, eye-opening journey up the floating village. En route, we saw hardworking fishermen spreading their nets across the water, playful children enjoying a dip in the cool water, women sunning clothes on laundry lines… Children’s enthusiastic waves and innocent smiles melted our hearts on this sunny Thursday morning. The trip to the floating village was definitely a breath of fresh air from our temple visits.

158

Our students with the local children

160

Heading back to the dock

163

What a great ride!

Our Afterthoughts…

As we returned to land, we noticed several large boats similar to ours. While such foreign visits to the floating village promote learning of other cultures and generate revenue for the community, we sincerely hope Siem Reap will continue its development of community tourism in a sustainable manner. Heavily dependent on the fish and waters for a living, we wouldn’t want increased traffic to be detrimental to the villagers’ critical natural resource, would we?  So please travel responsibly. Little things like not littering in the waters can go a long way. Every bit counts!

Yummy Lunch

Serious thoughts aside, it was soon time for lunch and we headed to Steung Trorcheak, a restaurant famous for its Amok cuisine. The gorgeous salad, crisp morning glory and tasty amok fish made it impossible for all of us to resist snoozing in the hammocks that were hanging just next to the restaurant.

Alas, sleep was not on the itinerary and we were off to see the last of the temples in Siem Reap.

DSC05688

All set for a sumptuous lunch!

DSC05691

Local salad with a tangy taste to start our lunch

DSC05701

What better way to end our lunch!

– By Wei and Clara