Everyday Meal (Rice)

Everyday Cambodians eat rice with at least 3 separate dishes of stir fries, curries, soups, or salads. Rice can be steamed Jasmine rice, sticky glutinous rice eaten with papaya salad, or porridge with braised pork. Rice is also processed into various kinds of noodles popular for lunch. They have noodles in soup, stir fried noodles in dark sweet sauce, thick rice noodles in gravy sauce, thin fresh rice noodles eaten with curries, small rice noodles wrapped in rolls and fried as spring rolls, or noodles added with bean sprouts, sliced carrots, and cabbage lavished with sweet fish sauce.

Chicken Curry

Bun Nuoc Leo (Fish noodles)

Spring Rolls

The art of cooking Khmer foods lies in balancing different savors to satisfy their tastes: salty, sour, and sweet. Unlike its neighboring Thai and Burmese cuisines, Cambodians are not too fond of hot food. Chili is served on the side for individuals to add depending on their tolerance level. To add the hotness in food, they use peppers more. The main herbs used in Khmer food are turmeric, galangal, lemongrass, kaffir leaves, and cilantro. Sour ripe tamarinds are used as soup base for their popular sour soup called Samlor Machu. Learning from Indians, they learned how to blend cardamom, cloves, nutmeg, ginger, turmeric, and cardamom into an aromatic paste called Kroeung to make Amok and stir fries. 

Tamarind Paste

Herbs

Kroeung - Spice Paste

Mortar & Pestle

Vegetables like winter melon, bitter gourds, luffa, cabbage and long beans are boiled to eat with Prahok, salty fermented fish paste. Prahok is placed on banana leaf and grilled on coal fire before using mortar and pestle to mix it well with shallots, garlic, palm sugar, and lime juice. Other vegetables like mushrooms, cabbage, broccoli, snow peas, bamboo shoots, bok choy (oval-shaped cabbage with white stalks), morning glories or kang kong are stir fried. Together of these are called Chha. More unique vegetables are banana blossoms, purple in color, are sliced and added to noodles or made into sour and sweet salad.

Banana Blossom (Flower)

Banana Blossom Salad

Trey Ngeat

Chha

As mentioned in my last blog, fish is the most common meat in Khmer cuisine and abundant. Grilled sun-dried catfish called Trei Ngeat eaten with plain rice porridge is very popular for breakfast. They can also be eaten with savory green mango salad and steamed rice. Pork, chicken, and beef are stewed, grilled, or stir fried. Pork is used to make sweet reddish Khmer sausages called Twah Ko resembling Chinese sausage or Singaporean Bak Kwa.

Cockles

Snails

Sour Prawn Soup

Twah Ko

Seafood includes prawns, squid, shrimps, clams, and cockles. Lobsters and crabs are quite expensive, so they are not as common and can only be enjoyed by middle class and rich Cambodians. Roasted ducks are eaten during festivals. Unusual meats like frog, turtle, spiders (seasoned with soy sauce and pepper) are enjoyed as everyday delights in Cambodia.

Desserts are combination of tropical fruits like durian, mango, banana with sweet sticky rice steamed in coconut milk. In Cambodia, durian earns the title of King fruit. Mangosteen is queen, sapodilla prince and milk fruit princess. Others are pineapples, papayas, rose apples, watermelons, and rambutans. Fruit shakes are called Tuk Kolok.

Khmer Cuisine- Its History

Cambodian cuisine is a strong indication of the ancient Khmer civilization and its long colonial history. The word Khmer is derived from the Pallava language of southern India that refers to predominant ethnic group, food, and language of Cambodia.

Khmers are considered descendants of mixed ethnic group combining Indians and natives of South East Asians who first migrated and inhabited South East Asia region originally called Austroasiatic region since over 3,000 years ago. It wasn’t certain whether the migration from the north was due to invading Tibetans or due to agricultural purposes since fertile land along major rivers was suitable for growing crops.

In its early days, the Khmer’s language, religion, and cultures were heavily influenced by Indian and Chinese traders as evidenced by the introduction of noodles and curry in Khmer cuisine.  The use of coconut milk and turmeric to make curries and desserts shows traces of Indian influence. In fact, one of the popular Khmer dishes is Amok or steamed fish cake made from curry mixed with coconut milk and wrapped in banana leaves. Thais have the same dish but called it Hormok.

Because of its location to many waterways, the staples of Cambodians remain fish and rice. Fish is the most common meat as they are abundant from the Mekong River, Bassac River and Tonlé Sap (the largest freshwater lake in South East Asia) and can even be freshly caught from rice paddies. Fish can be grilled and called Trey Aing, fried with vegetables called Trey Chean Neung Spe, added to sour soup called Samlor, fermented into paste called Prahok. Prahok is an integral ingredient of Khmer cuisine to add salty taste when friend with meat and chilli or eaten as dips with boiled vegetables. Prahok is a very authentic Khmer cuisine. In Thailand, the similar fermented paste is made from small shrimps called Kapi while the Philippines called it Bagoong (pronounced as Bah-Go-Ong).

Going back a little bit to the history. Khmer empire was much bigger before than today (refer to Map 1: Cambodia Today). During the 9th to 13th century, the empire extended to include parts of today’s Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Burma, and Malaysia and made Angkor its capital (refer to Map 2: Khmer Empire).

Following the decline of Khmer empire in the 13th- 14th century, Sukhothai Kingdom and Ayutthaya Kingdom of Siam (old name of Thailand) ascended and annexed part of Khmer including the capital city of Angkor (refer to Map 3: Ayutthaya Kingdom).  The Khmer was forced to move to a new capital city, Phnom Penh in 1434 by King Ponhea Yat. Ever since then, this part of Khmer remained under Siamese territory for more than 400 years. This is why Khmer cuisine received much Thai influence and vice versa. It shares many common dishes with Thai food, but generally not as spicy and sweeter. For example, jasmine rice, glutinous rice, fermented fish paste eaten with boiled vegetables, and sour spicy soups using galangal, lemongrass and kaffir leaves.

Due to Siamese and Vietnamese continuous invasion, Cambodia appealed to French for protection and became a French protectorate in 1864. For nearly a century, Cambodia was drawn into the French Indochina union which includes southern Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia. Interestingly, in the olden times, the Khmer called Vietnam ‘Khmer Krom.’ Sharing the same colonial heritage being part of Indochina Union, it borrowed many dishes from Vietnam and adapted to suit their tastes. Moreover, as a French legacy, Cambodians were taught to eat baguettes (long French bread) with pâté (minced meat spread), sardines, or eggs as breakfast.  It is usually accompanied with strong black coffee in sweet condensed milk.

Post World War II, King Norodom Sihanouk proclaimed its independence in 1953 but later overthrew by General Lon Nol who changed Kingdom of Cambodia to a Republic. Political situation remained chaotic in Cambodia. Only 5 years after came the notorious genocidal period of Khmer Rouge led by Pol Pot. As mentioned by Sachin and Manish, this period destroyed the country and left people emotionally marred. Four years after the brutal period, in 1979, Vietnam ousted the Khmer Rouge and slowly rebuilding the country for more than 10 years. The situation was rescued when the United Nations intervened in 1992 and helped restored monarchy in 1993 until today.

It is fascinating how Khmer’s long tumultuous history can be depicted through Khmer cuisines. How a variety of its menus created from unique blend of ingredients show traces of cultural influences from India, China, Thailand, Vietnam and France. And, this is what makes Khmer cuisine authentic and special.

Linibel (sent from Kai’s blog account due to some technical problem)

Whom are you sleeping with?

Would it be glitterati of the days of yore, Jacky Onassis? Or perhaps you prefer to mingle with royalty, a la Princess Margaret and Lord Snowdon? What about with one of UK’s most famous writer of the era? No, not JK Rowling; I am talking about Somerset Maugham.

Given that they have all walked towards the light, save for JK Rowling, you would still be able to enjoy the luxurious traditional (read: old) surroundings where they have once slept in at Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor. Like any grand dame, it has gone through several tumultuous moments throughout its history. This hotel was first opened in 1932 with 60 rooms. In 1970, Lon Nol and his military staff occupied it after leading a military coup against Prince Norodom Sihanouk. Five years later, the Pol Pot cadres occupied the hotel during his communist rule. When the Khmer Rouge was defeated in 1979, the Vietnamese forces occupied the hotel. It was only reopened again to the public on December 1991.

Raffles International Limited took on large scale restoration works of the hotel in March 1996. The hotel was then re-opened after a complete renovation on 30 December 1997. The four-story main building was preserved, but was refurbished with taste and imagination. Two low-rise wings in the same colonial style were added to double its room count to 131 keys. Traditional art deco pieces, antique photographs and posters from the 1920s were proudly displayed to convey elegance, glamour and sophistication of the golden days. An Otis cage elevator from 1932 was also preserved too add a touch of history to the place.

Lobby Area – The Otis 1932 elevator (or lift, whatever) is on the right; you’d probably need a license to operate it.

The 35-meter pool was the first pool in Siem Reap when it was added on to the complex. Inspired by the ancient bathing pools of the Khmer kings at the Phimeanakas Temple at Angkor, the pool is still the kingdom’s largest. Legend had it that in this temple, a naga, a dragon serpent-spirit, would take the form of a woman. All Angkor kings must sleep with her every night in the tower before he could join his wives and concubines, lest disaster befall him or the kingdom. How about that for personal sacrifices to fulfil one’s duty to the kingdom? In addition, this pool is rated as one of the world’s most spectacular swimming pools by MSN Travel Canada.

A Gorgeous (with a capital G) pool with traditional Khmer-styled dome at the background; now, just watch out for the mythical serpent in the form of a woman…

Depending on the room that we are getting, we might be facing the pool or the 60 000 sqm Royal Crusade for Independence Gardens. Regardless of view, the rooms would be decorated with hand-carved wooden post and assembled with an eclectic mix of Cambodian and art-deco pieces that reflect the hotel’s inimitable history. For a little bit of pampering, Sarah could be interested in spending the nights at the two bedroom suites of Uma Villa or Kama Villa. I believe it would be available at a modest supplement of at least USD 2400 /night. These villas are equipped with a full pantry facilities and a private wine cellar. But if you are dropping that amount of money, why would you cook yourself? Call your personal 24-hour Butler to arrange everything for you!

“Every morning there’s a halo hangin’ from the corner of my boyfriend’s four-post bed… (Sugar Ray)” – Hand-crafted four-post bed, mind you…

The Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor would certainly not want Jacky Onassis or us to go hungry. It has plenty of options made available for dining: from exotic Royal Khmer cuisine at The Restaurant Le Grand to Noum Pang, a delicatessen serving traditional French pastries and Cambodian delicacies. Enjoy a sumptuous breakfast at Cafe d’Angkor with Asian and continental favourites. Try out the hotel’s signature dish of Khor Bangkong, braised fresh water lobster in ginger and caramel sauce, at the Le Grand. Princess Margaret and Wei would also be delighted to have a traditional afternoon tea at The Conservatory.. Yash and Tan-Chi could go ga-ga over Elephant Bar’s signature cocktail Airavata; a refreshing cocktail named after Indra’s, The King of Gods, multi-headed white elephant. This concoction is made of rum, coconut passion, lime juice, crème de banana and pineapple & coconut juice and a dash of Raffles’ magic.

The Elephant Bar – Notice the details on top of the pillars?

After all the temple tours and 5AM wake-up call for yoga at Angkor Thom, you could use some pampering. Raffles Amrita Spa would be a perfect place to benefit from a traditional Khmer therapeutic massage, chab ta shai: a vigorous, firm pressure point, rubbing, kneading and rocking massage for effective pain and tension relief. The massage complete with heat herbal pack to enhance healing and soothe aching & painful muscles. A 55 minutes treatment is priced at USD 65 while an extended 80 minutes version is available at USD 80.

So, whom are you sleeping with?

An Overview

Theravada Buddhism, which is the oldest surviving Buddhist school of thought, is Cambodia’s official religion. Also known as “the Teaching of the Eldest”, the religion was founded in India and is practiced by 95% of the population in Cambodia.  About 2% of the Cambodians practice Islam and Christianity respectively, whereas the rest of the population practices Animism and Hinduism.

The Beginnings

Buddhism was introduced into Cambodia through two different streams, firstly from Hindu merchants in the Funan kingdom (the earliest forms of Buddhism with Hindu influences) and secondly through Khmer culture during the Angkor empire when the kingdoms of Dvaravati and Haripunchai were absorbed into Cambodia.  As such, the history of Buddhism stretches across nearly two thousand years!

It is interesting to note that Cambodia was ruled by mostly Hindu Kings in the early years of the Khmer Empire, with the occasional Buddhist King.  This meant that the official religion then was Hinduism, alongside Buddhism, and Angkor Wat is the largest Hindu temple in the world.

When the Angkor Empire was established, the primary religion became that of Mahayana Buddhism, which is a collection of teachings with doctrines that are able to coexist simultaneously.  This is a more liberal form of Buddhism as opposed to Theravada, which is the orthodox traditional form of Buddhism from the early schools.

The Developments

Theravada Buddhism became the official religion in the 13^th century, when Prince Tamalinda (a senior monk) came back after studying at the Mahavihara Monastery in Sri Lanka and rejected the innovative Mahayana Buddhist practices. Mahayana Buddhists believe in achieving ultimate enlightenment (known as nirvana) by liberating others. Theravada Buddhists, on the other hand, strive toward nirvana through self-enlightenment and libration.

Though Christianity was introduced into Cambodia in 1660, the Roman Catholic missionaries did not manage to successfully convert the staunch Buddhist population.  Islam, on the other hand, was the religion of the Muslim minority groups in Cambodia, especially the Cham.

In 1975, religion was suppressed by the Khmer Rouge when it took control of Cambodia.  Buddhism was almost destroyed in Cambodia, as nearly every temple or religious place was ruined. Monks and religious intellectuals were also executed.  Those who survived were driven into exile.  The number of monks dwindled from nearly 80,000 to only 3,000 in 1980 when the Buddhist restoration took place.  Although Theravada Buddhist was recognized as the state religion again, Buddhist practices were still suppressed up till 1988 when many restrictions were removed.

Buddhist monks were revered in Cambodian life, and were often called upon to say prayers of blessing.  Before the civil war led by the Khmer Rouge,  it was customary for young men over the age of 16 to be ordained as monks (known as bonzes) at least once in their lives, as a rite of passage into adulthood, not unlike the practices in Thailand.

Cambodian Buddhist monks shave people's heads for their being ordain (AP Photo/Heng Sinith)

The Present

Today, Buddhism continues to play an important role in the life of most Cambodians. There are now around 50,000 monks and novices. Each village has its Buddhist temple (also known as wat) with residences and a hall for eating and classes. Buddhist ceremonies are also evident in Cambodians’ daily lives such as births, weddings and funerals. At the heart of a Buddhist life is earning merit. As such, it is very common to see Buddhists in Cambodia giving the gifts of money and food to monks.

A woman saying prayers while giving the gift of food to monks (Source: ferenc.biz)

Although most Cambodians subscribe to a major religion, they also believe in animism and/or ancestral worship. In the corners of pagodas, one can often find small guardian spirit shrines. There are also sorcerers in the villagers that one can call on to appease spirits.

Similar to many communities, it is not difficult to see the many ways in which Cambodians turn to religion for their social and emotional needs.

Where religion and daily life are closely integrated in Cambodia (AP Photo/Heng Sinith)

Buddha statue in a temple (Source: Cambodiatourism.com)

Worshippers seeking blessings from Buddhist monk (Source: TourismCambodia.com)

Bibliography

1. http://www.tourismcambodia.com/tripplanner/general/religion.htm
2. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Theravada
3. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Religion_in_Cambodia
4. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buddhism_in_Cambodia
5. http://www.buddhismtoday.com/english/world/country/016Buddhism%20in%20Cambodia.htm
6. http://www.world66.com/asia/southeastasia/cambodia/culture
7. http://www.holiday-in-angkor-wat.com/cambodian-religion.html
8. http://www.wisegeek.com/topics/theravada-buddhism.htm#
9. http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-mahayana-buddhism.htm

Posted by Wei Tsu Leong and Clara Tang

Located in Cambodia, Siem Reap city is the capital of Siem Reap – a Cambodian province situated in the North Western part of Cambodia. The name has been known to have various interpretations – While Wikipedia describes it as “Defeat of Siam (Thailand)”, others describe it as “Brilliance of Siam”. With a population of only a 172,000, this city was officially settled in 1907 after more than a thousand years of its existence in the 8th century AD. The 110 year-old French Institute – École française d’Extrême-Orient (EFEO) – famous for its interests in Asian societies, played a pivotal role in freeing it from Thailand and giving it under the custody of Cambodia. EFEO was also responsible for making the city habitable and starting tourism as early as 1907. Surprisingly, Siem Reap witnessed its very first tourists (about 200 visitors) within only 3 months of its official existence!

Although influenced by Buddhism and Hinduism, Siem Reap does have a lot of colonial and Chinese-style architecture in the Old French Quarter, and around the Old Market. It was the re-discovery of the Cambodian Region – Angkor by the French that was responsible for giving the city its first boost in terms of growth & development. The fame of Angkor’s rustic temples and the opening of its very first Hotel, The Grand Hotel d’Angkor in 1929 slowly started to drive tourism in the city of Siem Reap. Almost everyone who wanted to visit Angkor had to pass through Siem Reap as it was the most important & popular gateway to Angkor. This “satellite-effect”, together with Siem Reap’s own cultural heritage has now made it quite famous worldwide.

However in the past, the city’s development was greatly stunted by the Khmer Rouge regime, a ruling party in the middle of 19th century, that drove the city’s population towards its countrysides and radically stopped all economic growth. The notion was to ridicule and torture the educated people and encourage the growth of an agrarian society. This movement which lasted a few decades until late 1970’s had an adverse effect not only on Siem Reap & Angkor but the whole of Cambodia. The survivors of the brutality & torture inflicted by this regime are known to be still fresh with the stories that are yet not very old in their century-old history. Although this regime was brought down almost four decades ago, it is only during the 1990’s after the death of Pol Pot (Khmer Rouge’s key personality) that the country has started to witness real economic growth along with making its presence felt on the world map. Social-upheavals, guerrilla-warfare, famines, starvations – this city has been a witness to quite a lot but last ten years have been absolutely crucial in its relatively nascent history of economic growth. Currently one of the fastest growing cities of Camodia, Siem Reap now boasts of numerous hotels and hundreds of restaurants that would be worth a visit! Few of the websites and magazines also wrote about its vibrant night life with lots of great pubs and cool places to hangout. Not to mention The Siem Reap International Airport that catered to 1.5 million visitors last year!

It is indeed hard to imagine how this place has exponentially grown in such a short time whilst carving a niche for itself in todays ultra modern world! Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom & the ruins are few of the key historical sites to visit around the city besides the Old French Quarter & the Markets as mentioned above.

We shall soon be posting a historical glimpse – few of the most beautiful pictures of this city in our following posts. Until then, happy posting!

Sachin & Manish

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