Intricate – BeMask'd

June 8, 2021Jenny Leigh Du Puis No Comments

#20/20: Cupcake

Cupcake: A Design Signature

The Cupcake costume was originally created in 2010 for the first Circus Couture (CC) event. We were developing a new concept, and needed a grand, imaginative, and over-the-top design for promotional materials and media spots, and I came up with the Cupcake concept. This look evolved into many iterations over time, spawned my “Mini-Cupcakes” series (including the #19/20 Valentine look), and became my first “signature” costume look.

A woman in a pink wig and blue, white, and pink costume — Karlee in the original Cupcake look. Makeup by Meghann Mason. Wig by Thomas Richards-Keyes, Meghann Mason, & Kelsey Contois Husch.

This first iteration of the Cupcake look involved an oversized pink wig, developed by Thomas Richards-Keyes, Meghann Mason, and Kelsey Contois Husch. I worked with model Karlee to balance the oversized proportions of the ensemble and developed a modular, multi-layered look.

A woman in a large blue white and pink costume with a blue and pink wig — Karlee in the 2nd iteration of the Cupcake look. Wig by Meghann Mason and Kelsey Contois Husch. Photo by Lei Rivera

A woman in a pink and blue wig with matching corseted costume — Karlee in the 2nd iteration of the Cupcake look. Wig by Meghann Mason and Kelsey Contois Husch. Photo by Lei Rivera

The Cupcake ensemble consists of pink glitter shoes adorned with spikes, turquoise sequin legwarmers, aqua and pink thigh highs with ruffle and bow trim, pink sequin briefs, a pink and aqua satin striped corset with studs, spikes, and ribbon/ruffle trim, one long turquoise sequin and mesh glove with claw spikes, one short pink sequin glove with spikes and studs, a pink sequin collar with faux feather trim in pink/turquoise ombré and claw spikes, and bras in medium and light pink adorned with spikes on the shoulder and studs on the cup. The overskirt was made of 80 yards of tulle: light pink, dark pink, white, and turquoise, with a large bow. The skirt was removable for a runway reveal.

A woman in a blue and pink wig with arms crossed, hands on shoulders, Wearing one long blue glove and one short pink glove — Karlee in the 2nd Cupcake iteration, showing glove detailing. Wig by Meghann Mason and Kelsey Contois Husch. Photo by Lei Rivera

A woman's back in a pink and blue corset with lace and studs. — Karlee, back corset view detailing. Photo by Lei Rivera

Front view of a pink and aqua blue satin striped corset — Karlee, Front corset view detailing. Photo by Lei Rivera

Cupcake’s Legacy

The Cupcake skirt and costume pieces were modified and used in subsequent photo shoots, including on location in the desert of Nevada. The Cupcake concept was reworked for the 10th anniversary show of Circus Couture, with an updated concept reflecting the inclusion of Cupcake Clown costume elements. The Cupcake Clown costume was developed as part of the “Mini Cupcakes” series, and features a modular look appropriate for circus performance. The Cupcake Princess look is a revamped take on the original Cupcake skirt, with the turquoise layer removed and the addition of 40 more yards of pink and white tulle, with a hoop skirt worn underneath.

A woman in a pink and white ballgown in the desert in front of a rusty car — Olivia in the Cupcake Princess skirt, on location in Nelson NV. Photo by Ron Nelson. Hair and makeup by Meghann Mason.

A woman in a blue and pink clown costume — Kacee in the Cupcake Clown costume

A woman in a clown costume peering over a ruffle collar. — Kacee in the Cupcake Clown, detail of collar and hat

A woman in a huge blue and pink skirt and wig with clown makeup — Muse in the 2019 Cupcake iteration. Makeup by Meghann Mason, Wig by Kelsey Husch. Photo by Shane O’Neal.

The Cupcake Mask

The Cupcake Mask is created on a base of heavyweight interfacing fused to pale pink cotton canvas. The mask upper has an overlayer of pink sequin fabric, and the beak is made of multiple layers of tulle, gathered and secured. The eye holes are edged in pink foldover elastic, and pink ruffle ribbon trim delineates the mask beak and upper. Light and dark pink sequin trim edges the upper edge of the mask, and a large turquoise sequin bow in tacked in place over the right eye as an asymmetrical embellishment. Studs in medium and large star shapes, round domes, and pyramid studs finish off the embellishments on the mask upper.

A pink beaked mask with blue sequin bow — The Cupcake Plague Doctor mask, Right side view

Close up detail of a pink sequin mask with star, dome, and pyramid studs — The Cupcake Plague Doctor mask upper with sequin fabric and stud detailing

This project is funded in part by the Cornell Council for the Arts.

June 6, 2021Jenny Leigh Du Puis No Comments

#18/20 Part Two: The Bride

The Bride

In this second of the two-part Groom & Bride series, the Bride mask is featured, inspired by and using leftover materials from my wedding gown. I designed and created the gown as a modular ensemble of pieces, built around a corseted silhouette with removable trumpet flounce skirt and sleeves. The gown was built on a base of painted denim, lined in red rose and skull cotton print and with an overlayer of black net with cotton lace edging on top. The gown was embellished with over 2,000 hand-applied jet Swarovski crystals.

A bride in a black and blue wedding gown — JL in her bridal gown. Hair and Makeup by Meghann Mason. Photo by Hitched Studios.

Detail of a black wedding gown — Interior of JL’s wedding gown with skull/rose lining, corset grommets and jet Swarovski rhinestones visible. Photo by Hitched Studios.

The Bride Mask

The Bride mask was created using materials left over from the wedding gown, built on top of a neoprene base. The bottom layer is painted denim, with an overlayer of the cotton lace embellished black mesh. Jet rhinestones are individually glued on top of the lace, mimicking the detailing on the wedding gown.

A black beaked mask — Bride mask lace layer before rhinestoning

Black beaded beaked mask, side view — The Bride mask, Right side

Bride mask, Side view — Bride mask, Left side view

Close-up detail of a black beaked mask — Detail of rhinestones on the Bride mask.

This project is funded in part by the Cornell Council for the Arts.

June 2, 2021Jenny Leigh Du Puis No Comments

#15/20 MirrorBall

The MirrorBall Plague Doctor-style and daily wear masks join previous mirrored creations in my collection. I first created the MirrorBall Dress, masks, and accessories in 2013 while living in Las Vegas. The first iteration of the dress was made for a photoshoot, with future modifications made for durability and comfort.

A woman in a mirrorball dress surrounded by mirror balls — Hanna in the MirrorBall dress. Hair and Makup by Meghann Mason. Photo by Lei Rivera.

The MirrorBall dress was next worn to the Electric Daisy Carnival by a bridesmaid for friends getting married. The couple, Matt & Alli, and bridesmaid, Erica, are friends from my Cirque days, and I was asked to help with some costumes for their EDC trip. Matt & Alli were featured in a documentary filmed at the festival that year, later screened in movie theatres across the country. The MirrorBall dress revisions included adding a pleather binding to eliminate sharp edges, and the addition of mirrored epaulets.

A picture collage of people in costumes — Screengrabs from “Under the Electric Sky” with Matt, Alli, Erica, & CJ.

The modified costume was used in a subsequent photoshoot, with the addition of other mirrored costume pieces and accessories:

A woman in a mirrored dress — Behind the Scenes shot of Nicolle in MirrorBall. Hair and Makeup by Meghann Mason.

A woman in a mirrored costume — Behind the Scenes shot of Nicolle in the MirrorBall costume with face shield.

Mirrored Masks

In the image above, a mirrored face shield is visible. The piece is built on the same kind of face shield that has become ubiquitous over the course of the pandemic. Two mirrored face shields were made and have since been distributed to friends. A paintball mask covered in mirrors was also created at this time.

A mask covered in mirrors — The paintball mask covered in mirrors.

This piece was paired with a hoodie and mirror-covered bra top:

Alia. Photo by Shane O’Neal

The MirrorBall Mask Set

A trio of mirrored masks — The MirrorBall Mask set

For the BeMask’d exhibit series, a Plague Doctor and daily wear mask were created. The daily wear mask is comprised of black cotton twill, lightweight fusible interfacing, glitter dot fabric, black cotton bias binding, and glass mirror tiles.

A mirrored face mask — The daily wear mask

The glitter dot fabric provides base coverage beneath the mirror tile layers. It is an aesthetic complement to the mirror tiles, and provides coverage of negative space between mirror tile strips. The Plague Doctor mask is built on a base of black cotton twill fused to heavyweight interfacing, covered with a layer of glitter dot fabric.

A sequin mask detail — The Glitter dot base layer detail

A beaked mask covered in mirrors — The Plague Doctor MirrorBall Mask

This project is funded in part by the Cornell Council for the Arts.

May 29, 2021Jenny Leigh Du Puis No Comments

#12/20: Spark, Raving!

Iterations on a Theme

The Spark, Raving! (SR) mask is inspired by (and meant to complement) a modular costume set of the same name. The SR costume began simply, with the creation of a costume to wear to music festivals and other events. I wanted the pieces to have the ability to be used independently of each other, and all of the costume pieces can be considered a capsule collection with interchangeable parts. The costume is comprised of bellbottom pants, a bodysuit with removable fringe, an embellished bra top, a wrap that can be a shawl or body drape, a white tank top, and multiple headpieces and crystal beaded jewelry.

A woman posing with a costume on a dress form — JL at the 2019 CSA conference in Seattle. Photo by Denise Green.

The costume was accepted into the 2019 Costume Society of America’s annual conference juried design exhibition, and has been worn to the 2018 and 2019 Electric Daisy Carnival in Las Vegas, and the 2018 Imagine Festival in Atlanta.

A woman in a white and silver costume — JL in the EDC 2018 Spark Raving costume

A woman in a silver and white costume — JL in the 2018 Imagine Festival Spark Raving costume

Spark Raving costume and headpiece detail

Mask Composition

The SR mask is a multi-layered and multi-textured piece: white cotton twill was fused to an iridescent sequin knit fabric. The subsequent layers are white and holographic silver sequin appliques, crystal beads, vintage AB chandelier prisms, and rhinestones. All of the embellishments are hand stitched, and the rhinestones adhered with E6000 glue. Work on this mask was completed over a series of months, in short stretches of time, and provided time for reflection on the original costume and the process of putting a modular collection of pieces together into a transformable costume.

Closeup detailing of beads and sequins — Mask embellishment details

Details of a white and silver beaked mask — Closeup detail of the mask

Layers of fabrics and embellishments has become a signature for my design style. In this case, the materials are reflective and change color in the light.

This project is funded in part by the Cornell Council for the Arts.

May 27, 2021Jenny Leigh Du Puis No Comments

#10/20: Revolution Set

A Tale of Two Masks

A face mask embellished with studs, spikes, and pearls. — The Revolution Revisited mask

The Revolution Set is comprised of two face masks: one in a Plague Doctor style and the other built on a simple shaped base. The shaped mask was built in Spring 2020, and features pearl fringe detailing, studs, spikes, and rhinestones. The lines are clean, and there is an elegance to the aesthetic. The studs and half-round pearl details were meant to evoke the vulgarity of decay and the symbolism of plague. COVID-19 was an unknown entity when the shaped mask was made, and as an artistic response to the uncertainties of the new reality of the pandemic, the Revolution Revisited (shaped) mask was created.

Fringe detail on an embellished face mask — Beading details

Plague Doctor Mask

The Plague Doctor Revolution mask was created approximately one full year after the original shaped mask. By this point the pandemic is our ‘normal’ state, and our lives have evolved to accommodate for its influence and impact. In comparing the two masks, it is possible to see a subconscious reaction in the mask as artistic response: The design lacks elegance completely, and is covered in multi-sized spikes, studs, and rivets. This mask is a symbol of armor or protection rather than aesthetic inspiration – we are frazzled after a year of life in a pandemic and our edges are sharp. This mask is built on a neoprene base with an over layer of printed cotton fused to stretch cotton twill. The embellishments include rivets, pyramid studs, and screw-back and sew-on spikes, creating a chaotic barrier between the wearer and the outside world.

Aesthetic Inspiration

The camo, stud, and pearl look behind the Revolution mask comes from a costume design of the same name, built for media appearances promoting philanthropy event Circus Couture in Las Vegas, 2011. For this look, I built spiked pearl epaulets and a strapless dress with removable full skirt that revealed a minidress underneath. The skirt of the minidress was covered in a laborious fabric manipulation technique called “furrowing“, and the overall look was inspired by the event’s theme of Revolution.

A woman in costume — Erica in the original Revolution minidress costume look. Hair and makeup by Meghann Mason. Photo by Jerry Metellus.

A woman's upper back with epaulets — Erica in Revolution look. Back view of the epaulets. Hair and Makup by Meghann Mason, photo by Jerry Metellus

The look was re-imagined in 2019 for the 10th anniversary production of Circus Couture, retaining the aesthetic inspiration while modifying the costume silhouette.

A woman in a camo gown with a large blonde mohawk — Nicolle in the re-mounted Revolution look, photo by Shane O’Neal

A woman with a tall blonde mohawk — Nicolle in detail of the remounted Revolution look. Photo by Shane O’Neal

This project is funded in part by the Cornell Council for the Arts.

May 26, 2021Jenny Leigh Du Puis No Comments

#9/20: Spikes

Battle Jacket

Borrowing a term, the Spikes mask is designed to imitate the look of a battle jacket, the denim vest covered in patches and studs rooted in the metal community. One of my ongoing projects aside from mask-making during quarantine has been to work on my own vest, adding patches from my favorite bands and others that resonate with my aesthetic. In the early 2000s, I worked at a record store in Boston where I was exposed to a wide variety of musical styles, and found my way to the goth subculture, which has influenced both my musical tastes and personal style, and it is this musical genre that dominates the look of the vest.

A studded vest and beaked mask, both covered in band patches and studs — Spikes mask and studded jacket

The patches on the Spikes mask are goth, post-punk, and metal, arranged on a black twill backing to create yardage that was then cut to the mask pattern shapes.

The mask is further embellished with pyramid studs, rivets, dome studs, and a variety of sew-on and screw-back spikes. The mask is built on a neoprene base, and the mask edge is finished with a zigzag stitch that mimics the patch arrangement. Sewing the patches on a vest can be done by hand or machine, and while I find the hand sewing meditative, I personally prefer the security of the machine stitch. Like the vest, the mask will remain an ongoing project where patches and metal embellishments are added, removed, and adjusted over time. This gives a life to the piece, and lends to the customization and personalization aspect.

A beaked mask covered in patches — Spikes mask, Right side

A beaked mask covered in patches and embellished with spikes — Spikes mask, Left side

For further reading on battle jackets, see this recent article by Laura O’Hagan. (Note: paywalled).

O’Hagan, L. (2021). The anatomy of a battle jacket: A multimodal ethnographic perspective. Journal of Contemporary Ethnography, 50(2), 147-175. https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1177/0891241620950804

This project is funded in part by the Cornell Council for the Arts.

May 25, 2021Jenny Leigh Du Puis No Comments

#8/20 CC Mask

Design for Philanthropy

As an artist, one of the most important ways I can use my designs is for the benefit of others. Over the years, I have costumed numerous philanthropic events and donated one-of-a-kind accessories to auctions for causes such as animal shelters, breast cancer awareness, pediatric cancer research, and most recently for the Actors Fund to benefit those impacted by the decimation of the entertainment industry due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Circus Couture (CC) is a philanthropic event raising funds to benefit the Cure 4 the Kids foundation in Las Vegas, NV. I was privileged to act as the Fashion Director for the first three years of the event, and in 2011 showed a collection as featured designer. This line involved a number of models with performance backgrounds including acrobatics, dance, and capoeira, and featured an adagio act. The CC mask is inspired by this featured line and symbolizes the nature of design for philanthropy.

A group of people in costumes — Nicolle, Gaby, Karlee, Jenn, Hanna in the 2011 fashion line; photo by Shane O’Neal

A woman in a costume — Karlee in the CC mask inspiration costume; photo by Shane O’Neal

A woman in costume on a fashion runway — Karlee on the runway, photo by John Petrick.

Mask Composition

The fabrics and trim used in the CC mask were featured on the runway in a corseted playsuit ensemble, and were originally purchased in LA’s fabric district. The mask is designed with eyes that appear covered to the outside observer but still allow the wearer a modicum of visibility. The mask is built on a neoprene base and covered in a woven polyester print that was fused to a white cotton woven fabric for increased stability.

A sewing process image of a multicolored mask with straight pins. — Mask base process detail

The mask was then embellished with a teal trim applique, hand sewn and decorated with gold rivets and crystal rhinestones.

Teal ribbon with rhinestones — Closeup details

This project is funded in part by the Cornell Council for the Arts.

May 24, 2021Jenny Leigh Du Puis No Comments

#7/20 SweetHeart

The SweetHeart Mask

This mask is inspired by the SweetHeart circus costume. The costume is part of a design research series of circus training garments exploring direction of stretch of panels on the body. The original costume in the series, the DearHeart unitard, is comprised of over 40 pattern pieces seamed together. While the panels enabled exploration of the body zones requiring different amounts of stretch, alterations to the costume necessitated a revision of the pattern and the 2nd iteration, the SweetHeart costume, is made of over 30 pattern pieces. These costumes were presented at the 2019 International Textiles and Apparel Association conference held in Las Vegas, and a live acrobat to model was brought in to do performance modeling of the SweetHeart costume which allowed the audience to experience the kinds of range of motion necessary in these kinds of garments.

An acrobat in costume on a trapeze — Acrobat Rachel Feirman wears the DearHeart unitard on the trapeze

A pink and silver unitard — SweetHeart unitard, front view

A pink and silver unitard side view — SweetHeart unitard, side view

A pink and silver unitard, back view — SweetHeart unitard, back view

Mask Composition

The SweetHeart mask is made up of 16 pattern pieces seamed together with a heart shape inset at the forehead. The fabrics are leftover scraps from the unitard design: metallic spandex in silver, holographic silver, and holographic pink spandex. The pieces are seamed together with a serger and zigzag stitching, and the inset heart is appliqued in place. The pattern pieces were developed by creating a brown kraft paper version of the mask and drawing seam lines, which were then converted into patterns with seam allowances. The base of the mask is made of neoprene, and the eye holes and edges of the mask are bound in pink spandex.

Closeup detail of a silver mask — Closeup details of the SweetHeart mask

A silver and pink beaked mask — SweetHeart mask, 3/4 view

A silver beaked mask — SweetHeart mask side view

This project is funded in part by the Cornell Council for the Arts.

May 22, 2021Jenny Leigh Du Puis No Comments

#6/20: Mermaid

Mask Inspiration

Sometimes artistic inspiration comes from the materials themselves. The Mermaid mask represents an as-yet unformed creative garment design inspired by the multi-toned sequin fabric and embellishments. The mask is made on a neoprene base and covered with sequin mesh fabric. The edges of the mask and eye holes are trimmed in metallic spandex that is teal foiled atop a royal blue fabric. The triangular embellishments were sourced online, and the jeweled pieces at the sides of the face were purchased in LA’s fabric district in about 2017. The sequin fabric is from Chicago, and the metallic spandex from Las Vegas. Each of these items were picked up along the way during visits to see friends and family, and have been assembled here in an exploration of technique and scale.

Close up detail of the Mermaid mask embellishments — Details

A green sequin beaked mask on a head form — Side view

This project is funded in part by the Cornell Council for the Arts.

May 18, 2021Jenny Leigh Du Puis No Comments

#1/20: Magpie

To start the BeMask’d blog exhibition, I selected the mask that is the inspiration behind the concept. Magpie was created as an artistic response to the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic, beginning a creative exploration of mask designs. Echoing the centuries-old Plague Doctor mask silhouette, Magpie‘s aesthetic design marries serious symbolism with play – a direct reaction as artistic response to the gravity of the pandemic and the increased emphasis on the importance of face masks.

Mask Composition

A beaked face mask and hat on a head form — Magpie, Side View

The mask is built on a neoprene base, lined in black stretch fabric, and has a holographic metallic spandex cover embellished with teardrop paillettes and crystal rhinestones.

The heart-shaped eyes are backed with iridescent vinyl and outlines in rhinestones. The mask affixes to the head via removable, adjustable elastic strap. The hat is designed to mimic an exaggerated captain’s hat silhouette, covered in holographic metallic spandex, and embellished with jewelry pieces and glass mirrors.

Aesthetic Inspiration

A woman wearing a sparkly long coat with feathers — Holo jacket, JLDP Designs

The aesthetic inspiration for the Magpie mask and hat is a jacket I made for New Year’s Eve in 2019. The jacket is created from black mesh covered in holographic teardrop-shaped paillettes, lined in holographic organza with removable black feather and silver tinsel trim at the neck and front opening. Pockets in the side seams were included for functionality to eliminate the need to carry a purse. The jacket was paired with a black jumpsuit and mirror-tiled platform boots.

Evolution of a Look

Two people in fanciful costumes in front of a ferris wheel — JL & Lydia at EDC Las Vegas, 2019

Two people in fanciful costume with headpieces — JL with Marshmello at EDC Las Vegas 2019

The Holo Jacket was worn to the Electric Daisy Carnival in Las Vegas, NV 2019. The original aesthetic ensemble of a black base outfit was embellished with a jeweled light-up headpiece and silver bead and sequin embellishments, as pictured above and to the right. This iteration of the look introduced the use of silver jeweled accessories in conversation with the holographic look of the jacket, particularly emphasized at night under multi-colored, indirect lighting. These visual texture experiments and aesthetics ultimately informed the look of the Magpie mask and hat.

Magpie manifests

The Plague Doctor styling of the Magpie mask was patterned with an extended beak and originally featured circular eye openings that were later modified to a heart shape. Iterations of the mask embellishments were shown to other practicing artists and designers for critique and feedback. It was decided to make the hat as a complement to the mask, inspired by the original Plague Doctor’s use of hats but with an updated silhouette.

A beaked mask in purple, mittor tiles on a hat, grommets in the underside of a mask beak — Magpie Base and Details

Mirror tiles on a hat — Magpie Hat process details

Grommets in a mask beak — Magpie Mask breathing holes

The Process images above show the Magpie mask at varying stages of completion including the neoprene mask base, a test of mirror tile placement on the hat, and the necessary addition of breathing holes to the underside of the mask’s beak.

Final Design Details

A metallic Beaked mask — Finished Magpie Mask and Hat

Closeup Details of a jeweled hat and mask — Magpie Hat Details

Mirror tiles and jewelry on a hat — Magpie hat details – Back view

This project is funded in part by the Cornell Council for the Arts.