Accessories, by definition, are secondary to garments. Nevertheless, they are a constant note within a wardrobe and can harmonize every look. Because accessories have the potential to be longer lasting than garments, they reverberate through and across many lives. While we do not know if any of the pieces in this display case were worn daily, they echo past into present. Their resonance is visible and audible. Without bodies in motion these accessories sit silently in the display case, but we invite you to listen to the recorded sounds they make with movement. Whether it be with the rattle of anklets, the swish of beads, or the metallic click as a purse clasp is closed, accessories change the tone of garments. Perhaps accessories are not secondary to garments after all, but a way of bringing together a whole look through sound, material, and meaning. Accessories are the final element to polish a look.
Indian
Belt, four rows silver chain with two triangular silver filigree sections
Silver
Donated by Dipali Sudan
CF+TC #2021.51.011
Mapuche, Mid 19th century – early 20th century
Punzon Acucha and Trapelakucha
Silver
Donated by Leopold Tschirky
CF+TC #1590
The Mapuche fought the longest defensive battle in history, holding off Spanish and Chilean colonial forces from 1541 to 1883. Though the Mapuche did practice metalwork prior to the colonial period, it was after they began to loot and later trade for silver from the Spanish that the Mapuche developed a unique form of silverwork, as demonstrated by this puzon acucha and trapelakucha. Likely created for a woman’s dowry, the puzon acucha is largely functional as a shawl pin, while the trapelakucha, or breast ornament, symbolizes Mapuche worldviews. At the bottom of the trapelakucha, the circular silver plates jingle together musically. As curator and artist Francisco Huichaqueo noted, “Mapuche silverware is not only ornamental, they are living pieces with complex eloquence. They speak as part of a ritual and they also sing. Yes, they literally sing, and they do it for their entire lives.”
20th century
Pin, circle, diamond shapes
Metal circle pin
Donated by Beulah Blackmore
CF+TC #2204
Indian
Hair ornament, silver
Silver metal
Donated by Mr. and Mrs. Donald McMurray
CF+TC #1584
Middle Eastern, 20th century
Ring, silver spirals
Silver
Donated by Beulah Blackmore
CF+TC #2233
American, 1931-1932
Rhinestone/pearl dangle earrings
Rhinestone and pearl chandelier earrings with dangling chains and screw attachments
Donated by Charles Mason Remey, worn by his wife Gertrude Heim Remey
CF+TC #1424
Gertrude Heim Remey, an heiress and wife of architect and Baháʼí religious leader Charles Mason Remey, had the reputation of being the best-dressed woman in Washington, DC. The couple wed on July 11, 1931 and less than one year later Gertrude allegedly shot herself twice in the head and died. Seven years later, Charles learned about the Cornell Fashion + Textile Collection and quickly donated the entirety of his late wife’s wardrobe. Her death remains a mystery. It is through personal artifacts like these rhinestone and pearl chandelier earrings that the voiceless’ stories can be heard decades later and Gertrude’s fashionable presence can echo in the click of metal every time her earrings move.
Indian
Anklets, pair, silver flower chain with hearts and ball beads
Silver flower motif chain with lines of hearts attaching dangling ball beads and chains
Donated by Dipali Sudan
CF+TC #2021.51.009ab
Indian
Bracelet, embossed silver bangle, pin-opening clasp
Embossed silver
Donated by Dipali Sudan
CF+TC #2021.51.012
Indian
Bracelet, set of six, narrow green plastic bangles
Plastic
Donated by Dipali Sudan
CF+TC #2021.51.015a-f
Indian
Bracelet, pair, narrow gold bangle with clear center stone, flanked by red and green stones
Gold bangle with unknown stones
Donated by Dipali Sudan
CF+TC #2021.51.013ab
Indian
Bracelet, set of four, narrow gold bangles inset with black band with mirror-like dots
Gold
Donated by Dipali Sudan
CF+TC #2021.51.014abcd
American, 1897-1940
Necklace-black beads with white glass
Glass beads
Donated by Flora Rose and Martha Van Rensselaer
CF+TC #3374s
American ca. 1900s
Rope necklace, multi glass beads
Multicolor glass beads on a silver chain, pink tear-drop stone at one end, hook closure
Blackmore, Beulah
CF+TC #2169
This versatile beaded rope necklace from the 1900s features a unique design with a hook closure at one end which makes it dual-purpose as a necklace and belt as well. Beaded through a silver chain, these multi-color glass beads rub against each other to create a dulcet clink sound.
French, 1920s
Purse, silver filigree frame, silver, grey, and gold beading
Silver filigree frame with black enamel trim, chain handle; beaded scroll design in shades of gold, silver, and grey
Donated by Howard J. and Nancy Dunhoff
CF+TC #2310
Sternocera Aequisignata
Thailand
Beetle Earrings
Blue and Green lustrous dangle earrings made from beetle wings
On loan from Denise Green
Creating art from beetle wings, also known as beetlewing, is a practice found in various parts of the world from Central America to India. These earrings came from Thailand and were made using Sternocera aequisignata, a species of beetle in the Buprestidae family known for metallic jewel-tone wings. Their iridescent and eye-catching coloring has long lured and inspired fashion and jewelry designers. Beetlewing dresses from the late 19th century tend to have the wings sewn flat to the fabric, thus eliminating the potential for sound. By contrast, the wings in the earrings on display clatter against one another and create a tinkling jingle similar to wind chimes. Because they are worn directly beside the ears, the sound is amplified. The wearer is always reminded of formerly fluttering insects that once flapped freely.
American, 1897-1940
Two gold filled pieces from earrings
Base metal covered in gold
Donated by Flora Rose and Martha Van Rensselaer
CF+TC #3374q
American, 20th century
Earrings, rhinestones
Screw back; clear cut stones in silver-colored pendant setting
Donated by Beulah Blackmore
CF+TC #2231
Norwegian
Circle brooch with bangles
Gold circular brooch with six bangles hanging from evenly spaced points around the periphery
Donated by Helen Jewett
CF+TC #339
This brooch, called a sølje, is part of Norwegian folk dress. While today it is worn on special occasions as a declaration of ethnic heritage, in the eighteenth century, the sølje was the most commonly worn piece of jewelry. These brooches were used daily as the only fastener on a blouse. For festive occasions, several ornate sølje might adorn an outfit. Traditionally, the silver provided protection from evil spirits. The six bangles hanging around the periphery make a soft metallic clinking sound when the body moves and ward off evil. The clicking might have brought the wearer a sense of comfort in knowing they were protected, and today, comfort in celebrating heritage.
20th century
Pin, wood and seed beads
Wooden beads and real seeds tied and glued to a wooden base
Donated by Beulah Blackmore
CF+TC #2200
1960s
Embroidered Asian bag
Dark green satin bag with structural bottom frame and soft cuff. Drawstrings of magenta cord adorned with two bells and tassels at end. Embroidered.
Donated by Betty R. Miller
CF+TC #2006.38.001
20th century
Brooch
Pearl or pearl-like beads, plastic, wire, metal, rhinestones
CF+TC
20th century
Earrings, pearl and chain
Screw back pearl or pearl-like earrings composed of five long chains with two rows of round beads ending in one row of teardrops
CF+TC #2010.01.051
1860-1920
Purse, grey satin with wood and silver beads
Grey silk satin, beaded net of silver round beads and teardrop shaped wooden beads
CF+TC #2014.11.015
Bagobo Tribe
Philippino
Ankle bracelets, slashed tube
Slashed tube with small metal balls sliding around inside; two heavy wire rings looped around tube; embossed design
Donated by Beulah Blackmore
CF+TC #540ab
Armed
Canadian, circa 2015
Silver Necklace
On loan from Shawkay Ottmann
American, 1897
Gold filled, closed case, engraved antique (Dec 25, 1897) pendant watch with a Hamden movement
Base metal covered in gold
Donated by Flora Rose and Martha Van Rensselaer
CF+TC #3374a
Leather Folding Fan
Leather, satin ribbon
Donated by E.C. Williams
Monet
American, 20th century
Bracelet, gold links and choker, gold links
Gold-colored chain link metal
Donated by Beulah Blackmore
CF+TC #2151 and #2184
Egyptian, circa 1936
Necklace, Egyptian
Turquoise, coral, cerulean, and gold filigree
Donated by Beulah Blackmore
CF+TC #2183