The term deadstock refers to the “extra” bolts of fabric, notions, or garments that are not used or sold by the original manufacturers. As rampant overproduction has long been a part of the fashion industry, there are huge quantities of these excess materials. In the past, deadstock was typically thrown away or incinerated, but concerns about the climate crisis have fueled interest in reclaiming these materials. As a result, some businesses now specialize in selling deadstock, making these materials more accessible to purchase at affordable prices. While there are many positives to keeping deadstock in circulation, these materials are not without controversy. Some sustainable fashion advocates argue that normalizing deadstock disincentivizes companies to curb their overproduction practices. Others state that some brands’ claims of using deadstock are merely “greenwashing”. While this remains a complex issue, vetted businesses that provide transparency about their sourcing practices make this an attractive alternative for designers who choose not to work with new materials.
T-Shirt and Trousers
East West Shop
@eastweststuff / eastweststuff.com
This ensemble features a black t-shirt and army green trousers created from deadstock fabric. The t-shirt’s white screen-printed design depicts a rose along with the fashion brand’s name and the address of its retail store. The pants are made from surplus military fabric. The brand’s owners, Erin and Dennys Han, were inspired to create a sustainable streetwear line after years of working as designers in the fashion industry. Their firsthand experience with seeing the damage done by the traditional fashion system also informed their decision to create a community-oriented retail shop where they could share their vision about ways to change how fashion is produced and consumed. Well-made utilitarian basics, as seen in this ensemble, are a part of the classic, seasonless designs East/West Shop is known for.
Baguette Handbag
Asata Maisé
@asata.maise / asatamaise.com
This baguette handbag is made from multi-colored 1960s vintage deadstock fabric. This particular bag is significant in that it represents the textile history of designer Asata Maisé’s home state of Delaware. The fabric used to create this bag was manufactured by the Everfast company, a mill and retail chain that started in Delaware under the name Portco in 1936. Maisé shares this story with customers by including a postcard about the mill’s history with each of these bags. As is common with deadstock, this fabric was available in much smaller amounts than those of materials that are bought new. The designer was ultimately able to create a limited edition of 36 one-of-a-kind bags from this textiles.
Patchwork and Python Crossbody Bags
Crystalyn Kae
@crystalynkae / crystalynkae.com
The bags seen here are made from deadstock leather. The first bag is printed with a beige, blue, yellow and green python print with black leather on the bag’s back and strap. The second bag is a patchwork of deadstock scraps in the colors pink, green, white, yellow, and an embossed silver. The designer of these accessories, Crystalyn Kae Brennan, prioritizes making her line from deadstock, with a particular focus on leather. Though not discussed as often as deadstock fabric, leather is every bit as problematic. There is a huge overabundance of these materials, and they are often just thrown away. Brennan is able to access this leather through yearslong relationships with vetted deadstock sourcing partners. In addition to avoiding new materials, this designer also seeks to create sustainable products by prioritizing longevity. The unique accessories she creates from high-quality deadstock leathers are made to endure decades of use.
Printed Jumpsuit
Miracle Eye
@miracleeye / shopmiracleeye.com
This jumpsuit, made from vintage deadstock, is printed with a pink, orange, and white retro inspired psychedelic print featuring white daisies. This piece is created by Miracle Eye, a family-owned sustainable fashion brand located in Los Angeles. Although there are some new textiles in their line, Miracle Eye prioritizes using vintage, recycled, and deadstock material whenever possible. This vibrant deadstock garment typifies the 1960s and 70s vintage aesthetic that the brand is known for.
