Feed sacks, gunny sacks, and other kinds of cloth bags used to hold grains and dry goods are an important part of upcycled fashion history in North America. Garments made from sacks have been around since the late 1880s, but reached peak popularity during the Great Depression when manufacturers began printing the sacks with popular patterns and colors. Though this practice dwindled in the 1960s when the economy began to boom and packaging materials transitioned from fabric to paper, upcyclers have remained interested in commodity bags for the unique beauty of their patterns, fonts and graphic design. Now many sacks are plastic as well as paper, and yet they continue to inspire designers in the present day. This section displays works from designers who use antique and vintage commodity bags as well as ones who continue this tradition through their work with plastic bags.
Feed Sack Jacket and Cropped Pants with T-Shirt
Mimi Prober
@mimiprober / mimiprober.com
This 3-piece ensemble features a motorcycle jacket and cropped pants, both made from antique feed sacks, paired with a mud dyed, hemp t-shirt embellished with antique lace. Original typography from the feed sacks is visible on both the pants and jacket. The jacket is also printed with the date “1904”. Though this look’s designer, Mimi Prober, uses a variety of sustainable design practices, she is particularly well known for looks such as this one which preserve and transform antique materials into one-of-a-kind garments. As can be seen in the motorcycle jacket, Prober is especially gifted at juxtaposing modern silhouettes with heritage textiles.
Have A Nice Day Tote
ANYBAG
@anybagproject
This tote bag is created from 95 single-use plastic bags. Designer Alex Dabagh was originally inspired to start making these to reduce the plastic waste coming from his Midtown Manhattan accessories factory. The textile is woven on a hand loom and then cut and sewn into the tote. For decorative effect, a smiley face and the iconic plastic bag phrase “Thank you, have a nice day” has been screen printed onto the bag’s front. As the project grew in popularity, friends, schools, and other businesses have also begun to donate their waste. Close inspection of the textile reveals where the materials came from, building upon the bag’s story. No two are ever alike.
Quilt Dress
Oscilatey
@oscilatey / msha.ke/oscilatey
This dress is created with a vintage quilt featuring a double wedding ring pattern made from small scraps of patterned feed sacks. The dress’s designer, Erin Hall, estimates this quilt to have been made in the late 1940s to early 1950s. In looking closely at the garment, you can see several areas where the feed sack textile has worn away, exposing the internal layer of cotton batting. Though many quilt upcyclers seek out blankets that are in more pristine condition, Hall is frequently drawn to ones such as these with moderate wear. She believes that these marks of wear and exposed materials add to the garment’s unique beauty and story.
Fresh Direct Handbags
riv.et.ing
@riv.et.ing /riveting.nyc
The two bags featured here, both made from upcycled Fresh Direct delivery bags, were started as a pandemic project. Though Fresh Direct generally allows customers to return their delivery bags, this was not the case at the start of the COVID-19 pandemic. Inspired by the vibrant colors and fruit imagery printed on the bags, designer Shelley Parker began using these as materials to experiment with new designs. In the bag on the left, she embellished its front with the addition of sashiko embroidery and macrame in a contrasting green thread. In the bag on the right, the design was created by cutting a Fresh Direct bag into strips and then weaving it together in a tumbling blocks pattern. The bag’s bottom and handle are made from reclaimed leather.
Feed Sack Wrap Dress
3 Women
@3womenco / 3womenco.com
This wrap dress is created from a large 1930s quilt topper made from two different floral printed feed sacks. It ties around the neck with a 1930s deadstock shoestring. What’s unique about this particular quilt topper is that there were more than a handful of the same floral feed sacks in two different color ways used to create it. It was difficult in the depression era for one household to find multiples of the same printed feed sack. Many households would trade with each other in order to find another matching bag, so they had enough fabric to create a garment or household goods. Though there has been a huge surge in the popularity of feed sack garments in recent years, they tend to be made with textiles featuring the advertisement typography rather than depression era patterns. Finding these whole feed sacks in large enough quantities to create an entire garment is incredibly rare. Many of the patterned feed sacks were already used in the depression era. Due to 3 Women’s designers Crystal Lee Early and Natalie Mumford deep ties to the vintage community, they are often able to access materials that would be difficult to come across otherwise. They’re knowledge of vintage textiles is also a benefit in being able to distinguish authentic feed sacks from other vintage textiles that have been erroneously labeled.
Mumford provided the story below about the history of this piece:
I sourced this feed sack quilt topper from the estate of artist and collector, Eli Leon, in Oakland, California in 2017. He was a champion of women’s domestic crafts and arts- especially African American quilters. He collected hundreds and hundreds of quilts over the years and even quilted himself. He was a lover of fabric and textile design- he has a plethora of aprons, clothing, feed sack fabric and upcycled garments. My love for vintage textiles and feed sack clothing was definitely inspired by having the great honor to visit his home and dig through piles of clothes and fabrics he collected since the 1960s. I found quilt clothes, feed sack garments and really great vintage clothing that had small pieces cut out of them (he used them to make quilts)! You can find pictures of the estate sale here & here as well as his extensive archive of Rosie Lee Thompkins work he donated to Berkeley Art Museum. Rosie Lee Thompkins was a pioneer upcycler. While many quilters after the 1980s were using modern fabrics, she was sourcing interesting antique and vintage textiles from flea markets and making incredible quilts. While it’s common to find feed sack quilts made in or around the depression era, she made truly unique works of art using these forgotten fabrics. What a treat to discover!
Embroidered Flour Sack Shirt
Unknown Artist
This shirt was discovered by 3 Women co-founder Natalie Mumford. It is made from a 1930s-1940s harina flour sack that has been elaborately hand and machine embroidered with a satin stitch in vibrant red, pink, green, and yellow threads. Many older advertisement feed sacks were printed with “wash out” ink and were intended to be washed out for domestic use. Embroidery is a great way to preserve these faded prints. The identity of the garment maker is unknown, however, Mumford dates this to having been created in the 1960s-1970s during a creative upcycling movement in the “hippie” era. Though the widespread practice of creating garments out of feed sacks died out in the 1950s, this shirt serves as evidence that the allure of feed sack garments has persisted throughout the years.
On loan from Crystal Lee Early and Natalie Mumford.