As we started exploring Switzerland on water by the means of a boat rented for our group in Como, one name always comes to mind, and that is of course Peter Zumthor. Having planned to visit the Thermae baths in Vals, the excitement and anticipations were constantly growing. After having escalated the mountains, some fell victims to the sharp turns of the roads, which the bus had no choice but drive through in order to finally arrive in Vals, a small village up in the mountains at about 1,250 meters in altitude, covered in snow. Here many have either sought refuge to rest a little from the trip and others including myself have fought to find a business open for lunch on a Sunday afternoon. Eventually we did find a restaurant, and with full stomachs we headed to the Thermae. Unfortunately one had to sign an agreement upon entry, which prohibited any of us including our Cornell photographers to take pictures. Thus one could only describe the interior, which could end up in a lengthy essay, especially because of the fact that we were lucky to bath while it was snowing. It is perhaps most effective if I say one thing and one thing only: expectations have been surpassed to a point, where none of us wanted to leave until the very half hour before closing time (I left with a couple others only when they finally hit the gong to indicate that they are closing down).
The next day we have set out to see some more of Zumthor’s architecture, among which one of the most notable would be the Saint Benedict chapel far on the side of a mountain just above a small village accessible only by a small road, on which our bus driver refused to believe it was possible to drive even though no snow was blocking our way anymore as we drove much lower from Vals.
But the walk made it almost even more amazing, because the views of the valley underneath us kept on revealing itself. We also had the possibility to go through a couple villages by foot on our way to the top, and to try some of the local syrups prepared by locals and left for consumption next to a natural fountain. Seeing the chapel itself was of course even more gratifying, after having escalated the side of the mountain for some time.
The attention to detail is again one aspect that cannot be forgotten. The wood work, the complexity of the structure and yet its simple and beautiful resolution was eventually accompanied by the sound of the bells of the chapel ringing and filling the valley with their sound. One can only conclude that the architect is getting the attention and recognition that he truly deserves.
(all photos credit to Ihwa Choi)