FASHION’S BLURRED LINES: VISIONAIRE WORLD AND THE CONCEPTUAL MAGAZINE

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Blog post by Nadine El Nesr

Not just for the art magazine connoisseurs, but writers, editors, designers, historians, conceptualists, and virtually any person from any profession can experience and learn from the work of Visionaire.

Seemingly niche, but covering a wide range of disciplines, Visionarie draws focus from film, immersive and interactive experiences, branded content, public art installations and blurs those lines through the lens of fashion, art, and contemporary culture (“About,” n.d.). brewing the perfect recipe for full entertainment and play for their consumers.

Figure 1. Image of VISONAIRE box (http://boxpaperscissor.com/art-books/visionaire-33-touch-fendi)

These magazines are not confined to traditional gloss coated matte covers and pages but can come in boxes, cages or cases. One of the most compelling which I have had the opportunity to get my hands on at the Division of Rare and Manuscript Collections in Olin Library at Cornell University was Visionaire 33 Touch (see Figures 1 – 4). Published in 2003 in collaboration with Fendi, 33 Touch comes in a gold brushed gridded sliding metal box, with its pages wrapped in a wearable pony-skin cache-col. Each of the 20 loose papers explores its own unique element of touch through various interpretations of the Fendi fall winter 2000-2001 collection, complimenting the season’s theme of sensory overload and excess that are still relevant decades later. The discourse of excess and overload are delicately intertwined with luxury, and the most famous of these emblems of luxury is the multinational company LVMH which acquired ownership stakes in Fendi in July 2000 (“LVMH: A Timeline,” 2021”).

Figure 2. Example of magazine content

Visionarie’s tactful collaboration with longtime contributor François Berthoud allows for the opportunity to insert luxury into controlled circulation in the form of a conceptual magazine. Although one of the most expensive magazines on the market as seen on the Visionaire website, with prices running upwards of thousands of dollars retail, the magazine tells a story and gives access to contemporary signs and objects by recourse to a device that recalls metonymy (Calefato, 2014, p.11). For example, the gold pages, box, and colors throughout evoke this precious metal, and the additions of fur in garment representations cite the obscure splendor of textures and luxurious furs. The logo and branding of Fendi is apparent throughout and imbues value and exclusiveness through words and symbols. This elicits a sense of rhythm and unity throughout the magazine as there is consistency within and plays on the repetition of Fendi’s famous logo. From another perspective, luxury takes a sort of gamble to lower itself to the level of controlled consumption, although conspicuous consumption, to reach the hands of those who are imaginative in connecting themselves as a part of the elite by owning and occasionally collecting small accessories, collaborations, accent pieces, or branded product by a big luxe designer (Calefato, 2014, p.11). Patrizia Calefato (2014) posits this idea by stating,

“The logic of a downward-looking luxury also includes the choice of some automobile brands to produce relatively accessible models. The aura of hypothetical luxuriousness for the many also accompanies the way in which luxury is rendered in discourse through journalism and new forms of communication. Many magazines… have come to focus on luxury consumption for both men and women, becoming glossier and more refined in terms of style and subject matter” (p. 12).

Realizing there is a greater commentary on possession, access, consumption, social and cultural capital, and status, whether intentional or unintentional, we can begin to think of Visionaire’s work through the lens of conceptual art in the way that it was made to be distributed and shared, not worn or kept. Upon realizing this, I notice there is some sort of aspect of 33 Touch that is reminiscent of Cildo Meireles work Insertions into Ideological Circuits: Coca-Cola Project. Meireles is known as a part of a generation of “Brazilian artists who fuse conceptual thinking with a multi-sensorial approach that prioritizes the body,” closely linking with the themes of this issue (Manchester, 2006) His Coca-Cola project comments on wealth and information as manifestations of the dominant ideology through the notion of circulation and exchange of goods. He modified existing Coca-Cola bottles from normal circulation by adding political statements, instructions, diagrams and then released them again to the circuit of exchange. Moreover, “as the bottle progressively empties of dark brown liquid, the statement printed in white letters on a transparent label adhering to its side becomes increasingly invisible, only to reappear when the bottle is refilled for recirculation”(Manchester, 2006).

Figure 3. Image of cover of magazine

There is a connection between this work and 33 Touch, which take the users experiencing these artworks on a sensuous tour through material explorations in ways that connect semiotics and art into larger political and economic contexts. In 1970 when Insertions into Ideological Circuits projects were created, Brazil was undergoing a 21-year long, oppressive period of military dictatorship. The intersection of concept and luxury may allow us to understand how luxury is linked into the accursed part of societies. Again, this idea is illustrated by Patrizia Calefato (2014) where “like potlatch, war is an anthropological luxury in which humanity challenges itself, raising the stakes as far as possible, as long as there are lives to be lost… the ‘gifts’ exchanged are neither food nor luxury goods but the bodies of soldiers and civilians rendered useless (civilians are merely termed ‘collateral damage’)” (p. 14). We can see evidence of this accursed dark side in 33 Touch as well where there is a page of a literal skeleton, or the knight in shining armor wearing a fur Fendi coat and silver boots, showing us that although luxury may be celebrated, provide us with fully immersive experiences and play, there is also the dark side of luxury that must be acknowledged in order to understand the conceptual and deeper aspect that makes it art. Maybe 33 Touch aims to put into circulation a sort of Clido Meireles -esque commentary on those bigger conversations surrounding luxury, philosophy of excess in the contemporary sphere, metaphorically and literally wrapped up in a golden box.

 

 

Author bio: I’m a student at Cornell University in the College of Human Ecology studying fashion design management with a track in product development. I’m passionate about exploring fashion’s deeper connections to history, psychology, art, luxury, fitness, and the human experience. In my free time you can find me designing, painting, reading, in the gym, or outdoors!

Works Cited

“About.” VISIONAIREWORLD, https://visionaireworld.com/pages/about.

Calefato, Patrizia. Luxury: Fashion, Lifestyle and Excess. Berg, 2014.

Manchester, Elizabeth. “’Insertions into Ideological Circuits: Coca-Cola Project’, Cildo Meireles, 1970.” Tate, Sept. 2006, https://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/meireles-insertions-into-ideological-circuits-coca-cola-project-t12328.

TFL. “LVMH: A Timeline behind the Building of the World’s Most Valuable Luxury Goods Conglomerate.” The Fashion Law, 5 Oct. 2021, https://www.thefashionlaw.com/lvmh-a-timeline-behind-the-building-of-a-conglomerate/#:~:text=2001%3A%20Fendi%20%E2%80%93%20The%20Italian%20company,acquired%20ownership%20stakes%20in%20Fendi.

https://cornell.app.box.com/s/7v4i7rigrzwaq4c4p5thzc2po6w4f2t7

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