Think you’re done with landscaping or yard work for the year? Not so fast.
Thanks to IPM funding, Long Island’s Suffolk County Cooperative Extension has posted dozens of down-to-earth fact sheets on landscape care — each a quick read, yet rich with detail. Whether you’re a professional or homeowner — and no matter where you live — you’ll find reasons a-plenty for putting on your woolies and getting outside and invigorated — all while attending late fall and midwinter tasks that keep trees and shrubs healthy, happy, and ready for spring.
What’s is the most important fall task? (Hint: Keep Your Hose Handy)
Kudos if you thought “watering.” Often trees go into dormancy with insufficient moisture, especially if newly planted. Watering late in fall or during a midwinter thaw can prevent winter damage and heaving — and sets your trees up for less stress and a healthier spring.
What about wrapping evergreens with burlap to protect from salt and snow damage?
Not the best idea. That hole people leave in the top for winter growth is a great way to get sunscald on the southwest side.
When do I prune trees?
Prune in winter when you have fewer routine tasks and you can see each tree’s structure. Plus winter pruning is less stressful for trees and reduces the chance for late winter storm damage.
When should I remove trees altogether?
Winter is ideal, since frozen ground the soil and turf from tearing.
Which trees cope best — and worst — with ice storms?
This handy table charts nearly 80 trees by susceptibility to damage. Among the most susceptible are Bradford pear, honey locust, and willow. Those most resistant include catalpa, Colorado blue spruce, crabapple, and witch hazel. And in between? Red maple, scarlet oak, and yellow birch.
Freely adapted from fact sheets by Cooperative Extension educators and authors Tamson Yeh and Marie Camenares.