Tag Archives: vegetables

Gardener’s Check List

May 2021

Garden Maintenance

  • Remove dead leaves from flower and vegetable beds.

When can I clean up my garden…and still protect beneficial insects? – Biocontrol Bytes, NYSIPM

  • Divide perennials so they have more space to grow.  Give extras to family and friends.
  • Light purple lilac blooms
    Lilacs

    Remove flowerheads after lilac bloom.

  • Plant a cutting garden to create beautiful flower arrangements all summer long.

WORKSHOP: Growing and Selecting Flowers for Floral Arrangements –  Cornell Cooperative Extension Orange County

  • Remove emerging weeds before they take over your garden.
  • A short wooden tub set next to a tree overflowing with plants: a tall grass with red leaves, a bright green plant with white viens and a dark pruple plant spilling over the edge.Consider using container gardening to beautify your home, create a privacy screen and/or grow vegetables and herbs.

WORKSHOP: Creating Beautiful Container Gardens – Cornell Cooperative Extension Orange County

Pest Watch

Get your ticks tested for free! – Upstate Medical University

  • Watch out for snails and slugs in the garden.

Spotted Lanternfly Look-alikes – Virginia Cooperative Extension

  • Scout your stone fruit trees(i.e. cherry, peach, plum, etc.) for black knot.

Vegetable Gardening

  • Install supports for climbing vegetables such as peas and beans before planting seeds
  • Seed or transplant hardy vegetables such as kale, beets, peas, radishes, chard and carrots.

Vegetable Planing Guide – Cornell Cooperative Extension

  • Transplant warm weather vegetables and tender annuals after the last frost.

Patience is a Virtue in Planting Outdoors – Times Herald-Record


Play out in the rain!

A small child in yellow rain boots jumping in a puddle

Crop Rotation

by Joan Kean, Pine Bush Master Gardener Volunteer

This article appeared in the April 2021 Issue of Gardening in Orange County.

Backyard vegetable garden with raised bedsCrop rotation is the planned, successive cultivation of different crops in a specified order on the same land over time.   Regardless of whether you have acres of farmland, grow vegetables in containers, or anything in between, crop rotation is an important concept to integrate into your growing strategies.  It is a system of cycling a parcel of land through various crops in order to reduce the reliance on chemical fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides.  It is vitally important to optimal soil health and can increase yields.

The history of crop rotation dates back thousands of years.  The ancient Romans spread their farming practices throughout the Roman Empire.  European farmers followed a Roman cropping system called “food, feed, and fallow.”  Farmers divided their land into three sections.  Each year they planted a food grain such as wheat on one section, feed for livestock such as barley or oats on second section and let the third section lie fallow.  By following this schedule on a rotating basis, when each section lay fallow it recovered some of its nutrients and organic matter.

Today’s crop rotation systems are science based and range from simple to complex.  The succession of crops to be grown is carefully designed to ensure soil nutrients are sustained, pest populations are controlled, weeds are suppressed, and soil health is built.  Each crop uses different types and amounts of minerals from the soil.  If the same crop is planted each year, over time the soil is depleted of the minerals essential for plant growth and health.  In reverse, a different crop will sometimes return missing minerals to the soil as the plant dies and composts or is turned into the soil.

Benefits of Crop Rotation

      • Enhanced soil structure: Rotation preserves and improves soil structure.  Grow crops with different root structures that grow to various depths.  By rotating, the soil is not submitted to just shallow depth crops, but deep-rooted plants that will slowly deepen the topsoil, enhance water absorption and minimize runoff.

       

      • Reduced fertilizer needs: Nitrogen-fixing legumes in crop rotations or used as cover crops fix atmospheric nitrogen into the soil through root nodules.  This nitrogen is then available for subsequent crops.  Deep-rooted cover crops can draw up nutrients such as potassium and phosphorus from deep in the soil profile, making these nutrients available for subsequent shallow rooted crops.  These and other strategies reduce the need for fertilizer and can reduce the production of greenhouse gases.

       

      • Reduced pesticide needs:  Insects can over winter in your soil.  They enter the leaves and vines of your plants ready to reawaken in the spring to find their favorite meal.  When you utilize crop rotation, these insects are faced with a plant they don’t feed on.

       

      • Disease prevention:  Crops that are from the same family tend to have similar disease and insect problems.  Just like insects, plant diseases can over winter in plant leaves, roots and vines under your soil.  Rotating crops helps to guard against these diseases returning the following year.

       

      • Weed control: Including cover crops into crop rotation systems provides greater competitions to the weeds for their basic needs such as nutrients, space and light.  Cover crops ultimately crowd out the weeds, slowing down weed growth and proliferation for a reduced weed population in subsequent crops.

       

      • Erosion control: Improved soil structure and reduced exposure to water and wind.  Cover crops are effective in reducing raindrop impact, reducing sediment detachment and transport, slowing surface runoff, and so reducing soil loss.

       

      • Improved soil biodiversity: Crop rotation changes crop residues and rooting patterns.  Different crops benefit different species, and so a range of crops will lead to a more diverse and healthy soil microbial community.

       

    • What is Soil Health - Link to Interactive Graphic

How to Rotate Crops

Crop rotation plans range from simple to complex. Ideally crops should be rotated on a three or four year cycle in a planned sequence. Many rotation schemes involve keeping plants of the same family together throughout the rotation. Plant your solanaceous crops (i.e. tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, eggplant) in one area, cucurbits (i.e. cucumbers, melon, squash) in another, and brassicas (i.e. cabbage, broccoli, etc.) in another. The following year you keep the groups the same, but move their location in the garden.

As you explore crop rotation there are lots of tricks to learn. You can add cover crops to your rotation, which are grown between crops and can be used to protect soil, break-up hard pan, increase organic matter, add nitrogen and/or improve soil aggregation. Consider planting nitrogen-fixing legumes (i.e. peas, beans) before heavy feeding crops (i.e. corn). Potatoes yield best after corn, brassicas do well following onions. Some preceding crops (i.e. peas, oats, barley) increase the incidence of scab on potatoes. Beans are not greatly influenced by the preceding crop. Start by keeping a list or diagram of plant locations in this year’s garden and use it to help you plan how to incorporate crop rotation into your vegetable gardening strategy.

Resources

History & Principles of Crop Rotation – Allotment Garden

Learn more about the importance of crop rotation and see examples of three, four and five year crop rotation plans specifically developed for gardeners.

Cover Crops for Home Gardeners – Oregon State University

Crop Rotation on Organic Farms – Sustainable Agriculture
Research and Education – USDA

Although written for farmers, this manual has a plethora of information relevant to gardeners including sample crop rotation sequences.

What is Soil Health? – Sustainable Agriculture
Research and Education – USDA

An interactive exploration of soil health and how to improve it.

Questions about Soil Amendments

By Gerda Krogslund, Middletown Senior Master Gardener Volunteer

This article appeared in the April 2021 Issue of Gardening in Orange County.

Cartoon - A man pushing a fertilizer spreade full of Ps and Ks across a lawn near a tree. There Ps and Ks in the soil below the grass near the tree roots. It is spring and everyone wants to go outside and apply fertilizer to their plants, because that’s what you do in the spring.  However, overfertilizering your plants is not only a waste of time and money, but it can also damage your plants and harm the environment.  If you already incorporated lots of compost and other organic material into your soil every year, your soil is probably doing well.  So before you add fertilizer or any other soil amendments to your garden, I encourage you to get a soil test.

Once you’ve gotten your soil tested, confirmed that you need fertilizer, and are ready to add some fertilizer, there are many things to consider, so lets take a look at a few of them.

What is a soil amendment?

Soil amendments are substances added to the soil to improve plant growth.  Fertilizers the most common type of soil amendment and their main purpose is to supply nutrients to plants.  Soil conditioners are soil amendments that are mixed into the topsoil to improve soil structure.  Improving the structure of your soil will allow water and air movement in the soil and help with plant root growth.  Compost is considered a soil conditioner as it improves the soil structure with the added benefits of slowly releasing nutrients to the plants and increasing bacterial and fungal activity.  Other soil amendments include biostimulants and pH adjusters.

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What do the numbers mean on a bag of fertilizer?

Fertilizers contain the primary macronutrients needed by plants: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) .  The three numbers on a bag of fertilizer represent the percentage (by weight) of NPK found in that bag.  For example, the numbers on a 50-lb. bag of 10-6-4 fertilizer contains 10% N (5 lbs.), 6% P (3 lbs.), and 4% K (2 lbs.) The remaining 80% (40 lbs.) of the mixture is made up of secondary nutrients like calcium, magnesium and sulfur, trace elements, and fillers that make it easier to spread.

Each macronutrient is essential to healthy plant growth.  Nitrogen (N) is used for to promote foliar growth.  Phosphorus (P) supports the plant’s roots and reproductive system including flower and fruit development.  Potassium (K) is important in root development and for overall plant health, including disease and stress resistance.

Knowing what each number represents can help you decide which fertilizer is best for your specific situation.  If you are looking for a fertilizer to enhance flower production for your annual and perennial flowers, you would choose a fertilizer with more phosphorous like a 5-10-5.  If you are looking to encourage foliar growth for leafy green vegetables, evergreens, or shrubs, you would look for a fertilizer with more nitrogen or a higher first number such as 10-6-4.  Understanding the number will help you avoid applying the wrong kind of fertilizer. If you add too much nitrogen to a tomato plant, you might have a lush green leafy plant with very few flowers.  The same holds true for root crops such as carrots; too much nitrogen will produce beautiful leaves, but smaller roots.

Corn plant with yellow leaf margins caused by fertlizer burn
Fertilizer burn

Remember chemical fertilizers contain salts.  Apply too much, and the plant cells will begin to dehydrate and collapse.  Too much fertilizer will burn plant leaves and roots, and sometimes even kill the plant.  This is called fertilizer burn.  If you suspect fertilizer burn, use plenty of water to flush out excess fertilizer and prune out any burned leaves.

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Should I use solid or liquid fertilizer?

Whether you use solid or liquid fertilizer, you should always water your plants before application.  This will help the roots absorb nutrients better and mitigate the risk of root burn.

A gloved hand holding a small three pronged hand rake to incorporate granular fertilizer into the soilA common type of solid fertilizer is granular fertilizer.  Granular fertilizers can be broadcast by hand and then scratched into the top 4-6 inches of soil.  For large areas like lawns, a mechanical spreader can be used.  Moisture is needed to break down solid fertilizers and make nutrients available to plants.  After application, carefully wash any fertilizer granules off of the foliage of your plants and water to release the nutrients.

Many solid fertilizers are quick release meaning that the nutrients are available immediately after application.  There are also slow-release fertilizers that come in capsule forms and dissolve as they get wet.  Since the capsules are made to break down at different rates, a single application can last over several months.

Water soluble fertilizers are sold as liquids or powders which you dissolve in watering before applying.  These are great for fast-growing plants because the fertilizer is applied directly to the leaves and plants take up nutrients more efficiently through the leaves than through roots.  Nutrients are absorbed quickly and rarely burn the plants.  For large areas you can use hose-end sprayer fertilizers which come in containers that connect to the end of your hose and can be easily sprayed over your plants.  A drawback to liquid fertilizers is that they must be applied more frequently as they can move quickly through the soil especially if it rains after an application.

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Should I use organic or inorganic fertilizer?

Organic fertilizers are derived from plant and animal sources or a mined mineral such as rock phosphate.  Liquid organic fertilizers include compost tea, fish emulsion, and seaweed.  Dry organic fertilizers include manure, blood meal, bone meal, and cottonseed meal.  Organic fertilizers usually contain low concentration of nutrients that are slowly released into the environment as they are broken down by soil microbes.  Because of this, they are much less likely to cause fertilizer burn, and do not harm beneficial microbes in the soil.

Inorganic fertilizers or synthetic fertilizers are usually less expensive than organic ones and give quick results.  However there are draw backs.  They can cause fertilizer burn and if application rate or timing is off, there is a high chance of fertilizer runoff which can have detrimental effects on the environment.  Many synthetic fertilizers also contain high concentrations of salts, which can cause fertilizer burn and can harm soil microbes.

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How and when should I apply fertilizer?

Home gardeners have a tendency to overfertilize, that is why soil tests are so important.   Remember if your beds are rich in organic material you may not need any fertilizer, that holds true for annuals, herbaceous perennials, and vegetables.  New gardens low in organic matter may need to be fertilized in early spring, usually a 5-10-10 will suffice, but make sure to test your soil to see what your soil needs.

Herbs are a special case. Many herbs such as basil, thyme, rosemary, oregano, and lavender, grow best on sunny dry sites in sandy soil.  Heavy applications of fertilizers or organic matter may lower the plant’s essential oil content and encourage root and stem rot diseases.

Healthy mature trees usually do not need fertilizer as they benefit from turf fertilization as well as the decomposition of grass clippings and fallen leaves.  Shrubs that are surrounded by turf usually do not require additional fertilizer either.  For those shrubs whose growth is slow, top-dress their beds with compost or apply a balanced fertilizer like 5-10-5 in early spring or in late fall.   Don’t fertilize your perennials, trees and shrubs in late summer or early fall or you may encourage a flush of new growth that will not have time to harden off before the winter.

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What about my lawn?

When it comes to lawns, the best time to apply fertilizer is in September.  If you have a high use lawn it may need  a second fertilizer application in May.  Returning grass clipping to your lawn can reduce the need for nitrogen fertilizer by 25 – 50 %.  Note that New York State Runoff Law restricts the use of fertilizer containing phosphorous unless you are establishing a new lawn or have the results of a soil test that indicate your lawn does not have enough phosphorous. Check out Cornell’s turf website for more information about how and when to feed your lawn. A hnad push lawn mower throwing grass clippings into the air

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What about soil pH?

Chart showing nutrient avaiablilty at from pH 4 through 10
Effect of pH on nutrient availability

Soil pH is a measure of the hydrogen ion activity in the soil.  The scale of measuring acidity or alkalinity contains 14 divisions known as pH units.  The pH value of 7 is neutral with values below 7 are acidic and values above 7 are basic or alkaline.  With some exceptions most plants do best when the soil pH is in the 6.0 – 7.0 range.  pH affects the availability of nutrients in the soil.  As a result, plants in soil with very high or very low soil pH will show symptoms of nutrient deficiency.

Of course some plants prefer acidic or alkaline soil.  Azaleas like an acidic soil and may develop yellow leaves if the pH is over 7.0.  Blueberries do best in an acidic soil in the 4.5 – 5 range.

You can change the pH of the soil, but it is usually a slow process and may require repeat treatments.   Adding lime to the soil will increase the pH and adding ammonium sulfate, iron sulfate or elemental sulfur will lower the pH.  Liming is best done in the fall to allow time for it to change the pH.  Instead of trying to change the pH of your soil, it is easier to choose plants that are adapted to the existing conditions.  This is the principle of selecting the right plant for the right site.  Changes to pH are short term and annual pH tests are recommended to determine what needs to be done to maintain desired soil pH.

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A trowel stuck in a raised garden bedRemember that the best way to improve plant growth is the regular incorporation of organic matter or compost in the soil for good soil structure.  If you do decide to buy soil amendments, always read the label, apply the recommended amounts and use proper personal protective equipment like gloves and masks.  Happy gardening!


Resources

Correcting Soil pH – Cornell Cooperative Extension

Fertilizer Basics – University of Maryland Extension

Fertilizing your Lawn – Cornell Turfgrass

Fertilizing Trees and Shrubs – University of Maryland Extension

Lawn Fertilizer –  NYS Nutrient Runoff Law  – NYS Department of Environmental Conservation

Organic Matter and Soil Amendments – University of Maryland Extension

Soil Testing for Home Gardeners – Cornell Cooperative Extension


Gardener’s Checklist

April 2021

Garden Maintenance

  • Evergreen tree with a large section of yellow needles
    Winter burn

    Examine evergreens for winter burn.  Prune out damage after new growth appears.

  • Carefully remove winter mulch from planting beds.
  • Fertilize roses as new growth appears.
  • Clump of white daffodils with bright orange centers and yellow daffodils
    Daffodils

    Get you soil tested before any major planting.

  • Cut flower stalks on daffodils, hyacinths, and other spring flowering bulbs as the flowers fade.  Do not cut foliage until it dies back naturally.
  • Divide and transplant fall blooming perennials.
  • Learn more about how to attract pollinators to your garden.

Creating a Pollinator Garden Workshop – Cornell Cooperative Extension Orange County

Pest Watch

Spotted Lanternfly Look-alikes – Virginia Cooperative Extension

Vegetable Gardening

  • Plant cold season crops early in the month  (i.e. onion sets, lettuce, radishes, spinach, turnips, leeks, etc.).

Vegetable Planing Guide – Cornell Cooperative Extension

Vegetable Gardening Workshop – Cornell Cooperative Extension Orange County


Stop and smell the daffodils!

Small child squatting in a patch of daffodils leaning over to smell one of the blooms

Gardener’s Checklist

February 2021

Birds

  • Cedar waxwing bird eatting red beeries out of a treeRemember to check your bird feeders and keep them filled throughout the winter.

The Great Backyard Bird Count – Cornell Lab of Ornithology

  • As you think about the coming growing season, consider planting bird friendly plants in your garden

Recommended Plantings for Migratory Songbird Habitat Management – University of Rhode Island

Garden MaintenanceClose-up of snow on the needles of a spruce tree

  • Gently remove snow and ice from the branches of evergreen trees to prevent damage.

Winter Damage to Trees and Shrubs – Penn State Extension

  • Once the snow has melted, check your cold-hardy perennials for frost heaving.  Frost heaving is when your plants rise up out of the ground as a result of repeated freezing and thawing.  Carefully tamp your plants back into the ground a place soil around the base of the plant to cover any exposed roots.

Frost Heaving – Missouri Botanical Garden

  • Loppers cutting a branchThe best time to prune most trees and shrub species is will they are dormant. Remove suckers as well as dead and diseased limbs and prune for shape and airflow.
  • Wait to prune spring-flowering trees and shrubs until right after bloom.

Pruning Ornamental Trees and Shrubs – Purdue Extension

  • Learn how to properly prune your trees and shrubs.

Pruning Workshop – Cornell Cooperative Extension Orange County

HouseplantsHouseplants

  • The sun’s angle is changing.  Move your houseplants to ensure the receive proper light.
  • Prune overgrowth and remove dead leaves.
  • Continue to monitor your plants for infestations and disease.

Houseplant Problems : Diagnostic Chart – University of Maryland Extension

  • Transplant root-bound plants into larger containers.

Vegetable Gardening

  • Tray of cabbage seedlings inWant to get a head start on your vegetable garden, but don’t have space inside, consider winter sowing.

Successful Winter Seed Sowing – Penn State Extension

  • If you are planning on growing onions or leeks from seed this year, it is time to start those seeds.

Vegetable Planing Guide – Cornell Cooperative Extension

  • Assortment of Vegetables and Flowers - tomatoes, pumpkins, greens and flowersWhether you are a beginner or an experienced vegetable gardener there is always more to learn.  Sign-up for a vegetable gardening class.

Vegetable Gardening Classes – Cornell Cooperative Extensions


We are off to a snowy start to February and if Punxsutawney Phil is to be believed we are in for another six more weeks of winter!
Groundhog standing up straight on its hind legs looking out over the grass

Gardener’s Checklist

January 2021

Garden MaintenanceSnow covered house and landscape plants

    • Avoid using salt based de-icers near susceptible plants.

Salt Damage in Landscape Plants – Purdue Extension

  • Consider using an anti-desiccants to protect your evergreens.

Protecting Evergreens in the Winter  – University of Massachusetts Extension

  • Three deer standing is a snowy fieldReapply deer repellent on vulnerable shrubs as needed.

Using Commercial Deer Repellents – University of Maryland Extension

  • Do a daily tick check!  That’s right, ticks are active in the winter too!!

Winter Tick Activity – University of Rhode Island

African violets with pink flowersHouseplants

  • Make sure to check you plants at least once a week for signs of pest and other issues.

Houseplant Problems : Diagnostic Chart – University of Maryland Extension

  • Learn more about houseplant care.

Webinar Series: Houseplant Master Class – Penn State Extension

Sketch of several garden tools (i.e. rake, shovel, gloves, watering can, etc.)Tools

  • Sort out your hand tools. Repair and clean as needed paying attention to ones that you have not used.  Consider giving these away!  Choose a good location to store them and perhaps a container to organize them.

Maintaining Lawn and Garden Tools – University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension

  • Learn more about how to care for your garden tools.

Webinar: Care of Garden Tools – Penn State Extension

Vegetable Gardening

  • Pumpkin seedsSpring may seem to be far off, but it will be here before you know it, so it  is time to plan you garden!
  • Do a germination test to see which of your seeds are still viable and which ones will need to be replaced.

Home Germination Test – Cornell Cooperative Extension

  • Looking to change this up this year, check out what vegetable varieties other people like.

Bowl of tomatoes of all shapes, colors and sizesVegetable Varieties for Gardeners – Cornell University

  • If you had any disease issue last year, consider looking for varieties that have disease resistance.getting varieties

Selected List of Vegetable Varieties for Gardeners in New York State – Cornell University


Wishing you all a Healthy, Hopeful and Happy New Year!
Pumpkin covered with succulents surrounded by pine branches and lights

Need a Spot to Garden? Join a Community Garden!

by Keith Riddick, Middletown Master Gardener Volunteer

Just Plant It, NY! Food Gardeing for all. Boost Morale & Food Supply with a Garden! gardening.cals.cornell.edu / Cornell Garden Based Learning Logo / Master Gardener Cornell Cooperative Extesnion LogoWith all the uncertainty in the world right now, many people have turned to gardening as a  way of growing their own food as  well as a way to cope with stress and anxiety.   This isn’t the first time that people have turned to gardening during a time of societal upheaval.  Most of us weren’t around, but many families started their own gardens during World War II.  Back then, they were called Victory Gardens.  Food and money were short during the war years, and fresh fruits and vegetables were sometimes hard to come by.   Victory gardens gave people more control over their access to fresh produce and allowed more food to be sent to the troops that were keeping our country free.

A garden trowel stuck in the the soil of a raised garden bedWait! Isn’t gardening a lot of work? It can be, but doesn’t have to be. If you are starting a garden from scratch, it will involve work to prepare the soil (removing sod, large rocks and testing the soil for fertility).  However, if you want a garden bed already prepared for you, consider renting a garden bed at a local community garden.  There are several community gardens located throughout the Orange County with raised beds full of soil and ready for planting.  Chances are there is one not too far from where you live!  There is a short list of community gardens at the end of this article, but there are many more located throughout the county.

During this time, community gardens are taking precautions that allow members to safely grow food.   Although community gardens usually have communal garden tools, at the moment, you should bring your own tools.  Other considerations include limiting the number of people in the garden at one time and finding safe ways to water your garden plot with the communal water source.  When you join a community garden, make sure you are aware of and follow all the rules set in place to keep you and your fellow gardeners safe.

Another perk of community gardens are community plots, like an herb garden, for all to share.  Many also have compost bins for recycling organic material like vines, stems and leaves leftover after you have harvested the edible part of a plant.  This debris decomposes and is then returned to the garden beds as a type of fertilizer.

Pile of cucumbers, a red, yellow and green pepper, green onions, tomatoes, a bunch of parsley and a sprig of rosemaryMaybe a community garden isn’t right for you at this time and you don’t have any space in your yard either.  In that case, you can grow vegetables in containers.  Whether you put them on your patio, your deck, or even your balcony, as long as the plants get enough sun and water you should have a bountiful harvest.  You just can’t beat the terrific taste of fresh produce picked straight from the garden, so grow a garden this summer!

Community Gardens in Orange County New York

Blooming Grove Community Garden

Location: 6 Old Dominion Road
Blooming Grove, NY 10914

Cost: $25 per plot

Contact: Joseph Sciortino
(845) 774-9993
jsciortino49@gmail.com

Middletown Community Garden

Location: David Moore Heights Apartment Complex (off of Genung Street)

Cost: $20 for 4 ft x 16 ft plot
$10 for residents of David More Heights or Summitfield)

Contact: Jackie Hale
(845) 343-1168
jackie@middletownhousing.org

Montgomery CAC Community Garden

Location: Benedict Park
Rte 17K
(one mile west of the village of Montgomery, NY)

Cost: $25 for 20 ft x 20 ft plot

Contact: Richard Phelps
rlphelps@frontiernet.net

Newburgh Armory Unity Center Community Garden

Location: Newburgh Armory Unity Center
321 South William Street
Newburgh, NY 12550

Cost: $20 for 4 ft x 10 ft plot
$40 for 4 ft x 40 ft plot

Contact: Lisa Rittweger
(845) 978-8845
lrittweger@newburgharmory.org

Warwick Community Garden and Orchard

Location: Warwick Valley Community Center
11 Hamilton Avenue
Warwick, NY 10990

Cost: $35 per year (includes garden and orchard)
There are no individual plots.  All members work together to plant, maintain, and harvest the entire garden.

Contact: Kelly Collins
(845) 978-8845
colli642@gmail.com

 

 

April is Citizen Science Month!

What is citizen science? 

Scientists are limited in the amount of data they can collect by both time and money.  With help from members of the general public, known as citizen scientists, researchers are able to crowd source data collection collecting more data from more places helping them find answers to real-world questions.

So if you want to do something fun and educational that contributes to the advancement of scientific knowledge, consider becoming a citizen scientist.

Citizen Science Projects


Monarch Butterfly (Orang and Black) - Jouney NorthThe Journey North

This project focuses on migration and seasonal changes.   People all over the United States, Canada, and Mexico, report sightings of birds, monarchs, frogs, and other organism.   Watch as reported sightings are mapped in real-time as waves of migrations that move across the continent.


inaturalist logoi-Naturalist

iNaturalist lets you photograph, identify, and document what’s around you.  Every observation can contribute to biodiversity science, from the rarest butterfly to the most common backyard weed.  By sharing your observations with scientists, you will help build our understanding of the natural world.

Never Home Alone

In studying life, scientists have overlooked many regions. Some regions have not been studied because they are so remote. Others because they are so diverse that it is hard to know where to even begin. Then there is the great indoors, which we believe has been understudied in part because it is so immediate. This project aims to document the species that live indoors with humans.


The Cornell Lab of Ornithology - Logo with Bird in MiddleThe Cornell Lab of Ornithology

Hundreds of thousands of people around the world contribute bird observations to the Cornell Lab of Ornithology each year, gathering data on a scale once unimaginable. Scientists use these data to reveal how birds are affected by habitat loss, pollution, disease, climate, and other environmental changes. Your participation will help trace bird migration, nesting success, and changes in bird numbers through time.

Celebrate Urban Birds

Celebrate Urban Birds is a citizen science project focused on better understanding the value of green spaces for birds. This project connects people of all ages and backgrounds to birds and the natural world through the arts and fun neighborhood activities.

e-bird

The goal of this project is to gather this information on bird sightings, archive it, and freely share it to power new data-driven approaches to science, conservation and education.  e-Bird also develops tools that make birding more rewarding.  It provides the most current and useful information to the birding community from photos and audio recordings, to seeing real-time maps of species distribution and alerts that let you know when species have been seen.

NestWatch

NestWatch is a nationwide monitoring program designed to track status and trends in the reproductive biology of birds, including when nesting occurs, number of eggs laid, how many eggs hatch, and how many hatchlings survive.  Their database is intended to be used to study the current condition of breeding bird populations and how they may be changing over time as a result of climate change, habitat degradation and loss, expansion of urban areas, and the introduction of non-native plants and animals.


Logo - The Tick App - Bulls Eye with a the outline of a tick in the miidle suurounded by the words The Tick AppThe Tick App

The Tick App allows people living in high-risk areas for Lyme disease, like Orange County New York, to participate in a tick behavioral study.   Participants complete daily logs and report ticks.  The app provides information on how to remove ticks, prevent tick bites, and general information about ticks.   When enough people are involved, it can also provides information about blacklegged and deer tick activity in our area.


Monarch Caterpilar (Yellow, white, black stripped) on a green leaf - Monarch Larva Monitoring ProjectMonarch Larva Monitoring Program

This citizen science project’s mission is to better understand the distribution and abundance of breeding monarchs and to use that knowledge to inform and inspire monarch conservation.  People from across the United States and Canada participate in this monarch research.  Their observations aid in conserving monarchs and their threatened migratory phenomenon, and advance the understanding of butterfly ecology in general.


Logo - Monarch Watch.org Education, Conservation, ResearchMonarch Watch

Monarch Watch strives to provide the public with information about the biology of monarch butterflies, their spectacular migration, and how to use monarchs to further science education in primary and secondary schools. They engage in research on monarch migration biology and monarch population dynamics to better understand how to conserve the monarch migration.

Monarch Calendar Project

In the spring and fall volunteers collect observations of adult monarchs.  This information is used to  assemble quantitative data on monarch numbers at critical times during the breeding season.

Tagging Monarchs

Each fall Monarch Watch distributes more than a quarter of a million tags to thousands of volunteers across North America who tag monarchs as they migrate through their area. These citizen scientists capture monarchs throughout the migration season, record the tag code, tag date, gender of the butterfly, and geographic location then tag and release them. At the end of the tagging season, these data are submitted to Monarch Watch and added to their database to be used in research.


Logo - The Lost Ladybug ProjectThe Lost Ladybug Project

In the past twenty years, native ladybugs that were once very common have become extremely rare.  During this same time, ladybugs from other parts of the world have greatly increased in both numbers and range. This is happening very quickly and no one knows how, why, or what impact it will have on ladybug diversity.  Citizen scientists involved in this project help scientists answer these questions by photographing ladybugs and submitting the photos along with information about when and where the ladybugs were found.


Logo - Vegetable Varieties for GardenersVegetable Varieties for Gardeners

A project of Cornell University’s Garden Based Learning, this web forum provides an avenue for gardeners to share knowledge.  Gardeners report what vegetable varieties perform well – and not so well – in their gardens.  Other gardeners can view ratings and read the reviews to decide which might work well for them.  Researchers  use the information gain new insight into the performance of vegetable varieties under a wide range of conditions and practices. The information gathered is also used to make a  Selected List of Vegetable Varieties for Gardeners in New York State.


Logo - The outline of New York State under a picture of a moth, a beetle, a moth and a fly with the words Empire State Native Pollinator SurveyEmpire State Native Pollinator Survey

Native pollinators play an essential role in the pollination of flowering plants, including native plants and wildflowers, garden plants, as well as cultivated crops. Some native pollinator species have suffered population declines over the last few decades.   Participants  in this study submit photographs and/or specimens to help  determine the conservation status of a wide array of native insect pollinators in non-agricultural habitats.


iMapInvasivesiMapInvasives

iMapInvasives is an on-line, GIS-based data management system used to assist citizen scientists and natural resource professionals working to protect our natural resources from the threat of invasive species.  Citizen scientists are provided with resources to help them identify invasive species. Their invasive species findings are aggregated with data from a wide variety of sources contributing to early detection of invasive species as well as analysis of management strategies.


A curated beetle collection with pinned specimens above tagsNotes from Nature

Natural history museums across the world share a common goal – to conserve and make available knowledge about natural and cultural heritage. The Notes from Nature project gives you the opportunity to make a scientifically important contribution towards that goal by transcribing museum records. Every transcription that is completed brings us closer to filling gaps in our knowledge of global biodiversity and natural heritage.


Logo - citizenscience.orgCitizen Science Database

This is an official government website designed to accelerate the use of crowdsourcing and citizen science across the U.S. government.  It includes a searchable database of  a government-wide listing of citizen science and crowdsourcing projects designed to improve cross-agency collaboration, reveal opportunities for new high-impact projects, and make it easier for volunteers to find out about projects they can join.


Become a Citizen Scientist today!

Out in the Garden

As the days get warmer and the sun sets later and later, I hope you all have the opportunity to spend more and more time outside.  Sunshine and fresh air are good for the soul!

If you happen to have a garden or have decided that this is the year to start one there are lots of things to keep you busy at this time of year!

Perennial Beds

A mantis egg mass, straw colored foam like mass the size of a golf ball, on the branch of a forsythia bush covered with yellow flower buds
Mantis ootheca on forsythia

Hopefully you waited until spring to clean up your garden to allow beneficial insects and other arthropods such as bees and butterflies to overwinter.  Now that spring has sprung you should leave debris as long as you can to give these creatures a chance to emerge from their winter hiding places.  You should start carefully removing debris from around blossoming plants.  If you must cut back hollow stems, bundle them so any pollinators overwintering inside have a chance to emerge.   As you are cleaning up be on the look out for praying mantis egg cases know as ootheca.   This is one time when you should leave things till tomorrow!

Freshly mulched garden bed in front of a house
Freshly mulched garden beds

Mulching is another spring time activity.  There are many different types of organic mulch that will not only suppress weeds, but also add organic material to the soil as they break down.  You don’t have to mulch everything, in fact many ground nesting bees such as bumble bees need a bit of bare earth to make their nests.  And if you are mulching your trees make sure to keep the mulch at least 3 inches away from the base of the tree so that it is not touching the bark.

And it is never to early to start weeding!  Lots of winter annual weeds such as common chickweed and prickly lettuce have already sprouted!

Vegetable and Herb Gardening

Starting Seeds Indoors

It is not to late to seed one more round of cool season crop such as cabbage, kale,  and lettuce, but it is also time to start seeding warm season crops such as eggplant, peppers, and tomatoes.

To start seeds you will need:

      • seeds
Several flats of seedlings
Flats of seedlings

There are lots of places online where you can purchase seeds. If you still have seeds left over from last year and don’t know if they are still good, don’t throw them out, try this simple home germination test.

      • sterile potting mix

It is important to use sterile potting mix to avoid disease issues like damping off.  Do not reuse potting mix and do not use garden compost.

      • container
20 or 30 chard seelings sprouting in a small plastic container filled with soil
Rainbow chard seedlings in a supermarket salad container

You don’t need to buy a fancy container to start seeds.  Just make sure the container has been sterilized and has drainage holes.

      • water

You want to keep the soil moist, but be careful not to over water or you may have a problem with damping off.

      • light source
A bookcase converted into a light frame for seedlings -grow lights above seed trays placed on the shelves
Bookcase converted into a grow frame

Some seeds need  light to germinate, but all seeds need light after they germinate. Once your seeds sprout  a light source will help prevent them from becoming leggy.  You can purchase grow lights or just use a soft white fluorescent bulb.  Here are directions on how to build a Low-Cost Grow-Light Frame.

      • heat
Mini greenhouse made from areused plastic container covering a small tray with 8 small cups of soilEight small cups of soil
Mini greenhouse

Most seeds will germinate between the temperatures of 55°F and 75°F,  but the optimal temperature for each type of seed varies.  You can create a mini-green house to trap heat and moisture.  You can also buy heating mats to warm the soil.  Click here to see  Soil Temperature Conditions for Vegetable Seed Germination.

Out in the Garden

A small child in a jean shirt, teal skirt and bright yellow rain boots put seeds in the ground
Planting peas

Gardening is an activity for the whole family!  Children love helping plant seeds!  Right now you can be direct seeding cool season crops in your garden such as beets, carrots, lettuce, peas, radishes, spinach, and turnips.  If you want to have a continual harvest, consider succession planting or  seeding several smaller plantings of the same crop at timed intervals, rather than all at once.

Chive plant in a raised garden bed
Chives

While most people are busy seeding, some perennial plants are already coming up or even ready to harvest!  Chives are a great example of a perennial that allows you add something fresh and green to your meals in the early spring.  If you planted chives in your garden last year, they are probably already making their way to your table.  This perennial of the onion family begins growing in early March and is able to be snipped with scissors and eaten soon after and throughout the growing season right up until the fall frost.

Crinkly green and dark purple leaves with bright pink stems sticking out ogf the soil
Rhubarb

Another perennial making an appearance is rhubarb!  Rhubarb is a great addition to any vegetable garden and as it is deer resistant and highly attractive it can also be used as part of your edible landscape.  Although the leaves of rhubarb are considered poisonous, the stems of this spring crop that can be used to make the classic strawberry rhubarb pie as well as many other delicious snacks.

Click here for vegetable gardening resources! 

And as always, if you are having any issues in your garden, need help identifying the cause of a problem or figuring out a management strategy give us a call.  Our Garden Helpline phones are staffed April – November, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, from 9:30 am – 12:30 pm.  But you can always leave us a message or send us an e-mail.

Call (845) 343-0664 or e-mail your questions to mghelpline@cornell.edu.


Whatever kind of garden you have, spend some time enjoying its beauty!

A hanging ball of greens and fuzzy pussy wilow branches
December’s Kissing Ball transformed into a ‘Kitty Ball’ by the addition of Pussy Willow branches

Thanks to all of the Master Gardener Volunteers who provided their thoughts and photos for this post!

Vegetable Gardening Resources

Although it seems like no one really knows what is going on right now or how long this situation is going to last, one thing that I am sure of is that there is no time like the present to start your own vegetable garden!

Whether you’ve been growing vegetables for 30+ years or this will be you first year, here is a list of resources that should help you along the way.


Vegetable Gardening Resources – Getting Started!A cucurbit seedling showing the two cotelydons and the first true leaf just starting to unfold.

  • Beginning a Vegetable Garden This resource takes you through choosing a location for you garden to dealing garden pests.
  • Vegetable Growing Guides From artichoke to zucchini, find information about site characteristics and plant traits as well as growing information and special considerations.
  • Vegetable Planting Guide This resource includes a chart that shows when you should seed things inside, when you should seed things outside and when it is time to transplant. (Note: Although written for Rockland County, it works Orange County as well.)
  • Average Last Frost Date Although the last frost date is important, keep in mind that even after the last frost, cool temperatures will stress warm season crops like peppers and tomatoes.  These crops like nighttime temperatures consistently above 45°F and soil temperatures at about 70°F.
  • Soil Amendments and Fertilizers This guide includes fertilizer guidelines by plant group as well as information about pH adjusters, growth stimulants and potting mixes

Soil Samples

A trowel stuck in a raised garden bedBefore starting a garden, it is always a good idea to get a soil test.  As our office is closed, we are no longer accepting soil samples at this time.  Fortunately, if you need your soil tested, you can mail it directly to the soil testing lab, Dairy One.

Once you have your results, we would be more than happy to answer any questions you may have.

Vegetable Garden Problems

  • Vegetable Pests Colorado potato beetle on a potato stemFrom cucumber beetles and aphids to spider mites and slugs, this guide will help you identify your pest and give you tips on how to manage it.
  • Vegetable Diseases Choose your vegetable and then look through Fact Sheets and Information Bulletins to help identify the disease and learn the best way to manage it. 
  • Vegetable Cultural and Environmental Problems Sometimes you might think your plant has a disease when in fact the problem is not caused by a pathogen but environmental conditions or a cultural practice.  This resource will help you diagnose your problem and teach you what you can do about it.

Garden Helpline!

Garden Helpline Card (Information in text below image.)If you need help identifying the cause of a problem or figuring out a management strategy give us a call.  Our Garden Helpline phones are staffed April – November, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, from 9:30 am – 12:30 pm.  But you can always leave us a message or send us an e-mail.

Call (845) 343-0664 or e-mail your questions to mghelpline@cornell.edu.


So in the time of uncertainty, I encourage you to grow some food.

Stay home!  Stay safe!  Be well!  Happy Gardening!