Tag Archives: seeding

Beyond the Avocado Pit

by Mary Pobedinsky, Monroe Master Gardener Volunteer

Photo: Three elementary aged kids in white polo shirts leaning over a table looking at bean seedlings that sprouted in clear plastic cups half filled with soil.I like growing plants from things I find at the grocery store.  I’ve been doing this for quite a while, since third-grade bean experiments for science fairs, through apple, orange and lemon seeds, and on to growing avocado trees from their pits.

Here is a list of some of the plants that I have grown from things found in grocery stores.

I’ve learned a lot about growing plants from these adventures.  For instance, if you start an avocado pit in water with toothpicks holding it up, it will be very hard to stuff it into a pot later without breaking the brittle root.  But you can also grow an avocado tree by just putting the pit in a pot, so the top inch is above the surface—avocados need light to germinate.  Apple, orange and lemon seeds may indeed grow into a tree, but they usually won’t flower or produce fruit—they don’t come true from seeds.  Beans are still a safe bet, and one bag of dry beans will grow a lot of bean plants—all of the same kind.  But why not try something really different?

Photo: Celery. A bunch of celery that has been cut of a few inches from the base. It is in a small green plastic pot of soil and new sprouts have started to emerge from the center of the clump.
Celery plant
Photo: A pineapple plant. The plant has 20 or so sword-shaped leaves growing from the base as well as a stalk growing from the middle of the base that has a miniature pineapple on top.
Pineapple plant

Probably the easiest-to-grow plants available at grocery stores are pineapples and sweet potatoes.  Pineapples can make instant house plants.  Choose a pineapple with a fresh, green top and cut it off just where the fruit begins to slope, then remove any remaining fruit from the top.  Peel off the lowest green leaves–you may see small roots already formed at the base.  Plant the top in regular potting soil, just deep enough so it will stand up on its own, and keep the soil and leaves moist until the roots have taken hold.  You can grow celery the same way, just by planting the base with a few inches of stalks still attached.  New stalks will start to grow within a week.

Photo: A sweet potato in a submerged in a glass of water. Growing out of the top of the sweet potato are lots green sprouts growing up out of the water and lots of thin white roots growing down into the water.
Sprouting sweet potato

Sweet potatoes are even easier: select a small sweet potato (it will double in size) and place it, pointy end up, in a jar or glass of water.  In just a few days you’ll see white dots as the roots start to form, then pretty green vines will emerge from the top.  You can keep it going in water for a long time, changing the water when it gets cloudy, or plant it in a pot.  In spring you can plant each vine (slip) separately outside and in fall harvest more sweet potatoes!

The produce aisles are full of things that might possibly grow into plants:  papayas, pomegranates and even passion fruits have seeds that are easy to grow if a bit messy.  WARNING:  if you try to remove the red arils from pomegranate seeds so they’re less likely to mold, don’t wear white clothing unless you really like wearing polka-dots.

Photo: The top of a small square plastic pot filled with soil. The top of the soil is covered with perlite, which looks like small off-white irregular shaped styrofoam pellets. Growing out of the perlite are a handfull of cactus sprouts, bright green and covered with long thin spines
Dragon fruit seedlings
Photo: Cross section of a dragon fruit. It is circular with a thick red skin and a white inner area speckled with lots of little black dots (seeds).
Cross section of a dragon fruit

Some of the easiest fruit seeds to grow come from dragon fruit; there are hundreds of seeds in each fruit and they sprout quickly into pretty little cactus plants.  As they get larger you’ll learn that they are indeed cactus plants, and very prickly–handle with gloves!  Other sources of cactus plants are also found in the grocery stores: red cactus fruit contains lots of seeds, or you can just set a cactus “pad” upright in a pot of soil and it will quickly grow roots.

Some seeds like dates and mangoes may take a month or more to germinate, but date palms and mango trees make lovely house plants.  You can speed the process by soaking large seeds overnight before planting them, and then always plant them as soon as possible; freshness is important.  You can also grow roots (rhizomes) like ginger and turmeric just by putting small root buds in a pot with the top barely showing.

Photo: Cross sections of a passion fruit. The fruit has been sliced in half. There is a thick white skin and the inside is full little black seeds with a gelatinous yellow coat.
Passion fruit
Photo: Passion flower.
Passion flower

It’s a habit that’s hard to break.  Once you have a few plants growing, you may find yourself taking home even more exotic choices just to see what will happen when you plant the seeds.  Lychees, guavas, quenepas, passion fruits, and ginger roots may end up on your regular grocery list.  Growing plants like this can be fun for kids of any age–and the bonus is that you also bring home delicious fruit!

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Clean Your Garden with Insects in Mind

by Mary Carol Presutti, New Windsor Master Gardener Volunteer

Between now and mum season there are a few things you can do to get a head start for spring cleanup with minimum fuss.


Weed

A pair of gloved hands holding some freshly picked weedsThis is a perfect time to get a start on weed management for the spring.  Shorter days and colder weather in the months ahead will reduce the activity of plant growth.  You want to keep the process as natural as possible.  Pull weeds to your hearts content without overly disturbing the soil.  Don’t use hoes or rakes, and don’t turn the soil over unless you must.  When you disturb the soil too much seeds resting on top of soil get planted in the loose soil, and seeds deep in the soil are brought closer to the surface where they will be able to sprout.  Every time you move soil around without a purpose, the roots and seeds of unwanted plants are given the go ahead to sprout away.

Organic Weed Management – Cornell University


Mulch

Freshly mulched garden bed in front of a houseBare soil is an invitation for weeds to… well, put down roots!  Cover weeds that you want gone by the spring with a layer of weighted cardboard. Sometimes I think I shop online more for the cardboard shipping boxes then for what’s inside.  I also love using sheets of bark from my fireplace wood in and around my garden plants.  Tree bark adds nutrients, cuts down on weed growth, and is a good insulator for tender plants.  Grass clippings or shredded leaves make a nice winter mulch, but cut up leaves soon after they fall to the ground before insects and small animals take shelter.  Rake only the leaves you need to, leaving a goodly amount for insects to find winter cover.

Organic Garden Mulches to Conserve Moisture and Prevent Weeds – South Dakota State University Extension

Leave the Leaves – Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation


Seed

A group of blazing star blooms - cyclindrical spikes covered with tiny purple flowers
Blazing star

There are so many plants that seed themselves if you leave them be, although you must be patient as they will need a year or two to establish themselves from seed.  Here are a few of my favorites

Self-Seeding Perennials – University of Minnesota Extension

Which flowers are self-sowing? – University of New Hampshire Extension


Collect Seeds

Three milkweed seed pods that have been spilt open. One is empty and the other two contain lots of small, brown, oval-shaped seed attached to a silky strands that will help disperse the wind disperse them.
Milkweed seed pods

I love collecting seeds and seed heads as they mature throughout the year.  I either give them to friends or propagate them in other areas of my own garden.  Make sure you collect seeds from plants that produce viable seeds.  Some cultivars are bred to be sterile, and hybrids may produce seed, but the offspring will not necessarily resemble the parent plant.  It is best to stick with uncultivated species and their varieties.  Seeds and seed pods vary greatly.  Milkweed produces seed pods which open to disperse seeds, while catmint, verbena, and blazing star produce seed heads after the plants flower.   Research gathering techniques, proper storage, and how to plant different kinds of seeds in your garden.

Saving Seeds from Annuals and Perennials – The National Gardening Association

How to Collect and Store Seeds – Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center


Disease Management

Black, yellow, and white stripped monarch caterpillar feeding on milkweed.
Monarch caterpillar

If you grow native milkweeds, consider cutting back the plants this month to discourage next year’s growth from harboring any diseases that may have been left by this year’s monarchs. The most prevalent is Ophryocystis elektroscirrha, a parasitic protozoan that affects caterpillars.  An infected monarch butterfly can host thousands of these parasites on their wings.  Dispose of the cuttings with your regular trash instead of composting.

A wild begamont plant with leaves covered witha white substance.
Powdery mildew on wild bergamont

The stems and leaves of diseased plants should also be cut and disposed of in the trash as well.  A good example is wild bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), which is very susceptible to powdery mildew.  If left alone the mildew will overwinter on the old stems and may transfer to new growth in springtime.

Powdery Mildew of Ornamentals –  Cornell Cooperative Extension Nassau County


Create Habitat for Pollinators

Milweed stems that have been cut back so the hollow stem can be used for by cavity nesting bees
Cut back milkweed stems

One way to help local native bee populations is to encourage nesting in your garden.  Cut back some of the hollow-stemmed plants like Joe-Pye weed (Eutrochium spp.) and milkweed leaving them about a foot tall as to create a space for cavity nesting bees to nest.  For the ground nesting bees, avoid heavy wood mulches which are impossible for these small insects to burrow into.

Pollinator Nesting Resources – Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation

Wild Bees of New York – Cornell University


Gardener’s Checklist

August 2021

Garden Maintenance

  • Deadhead annuals and perennials regularly too encourage new blooms.
  • Consider adding some herbs to you perennial flower garden.

    Japanese Knotwwed in full bloom
    Invasive Japanese Knotweed

Webinar: Gardening with Herbs – Cornell Cooperative Extension Chemung County

Pest Watch

A silken fall webworm nest at the end of a branch full of caterpillars.
Fall Webworm Nest
  • Keep pests out of your home this fall!

Webinar: Keeping Pests Out of Your Home this Fall: From Stink Bugs to Mice – NYS IPM

  • Scout your lawn for grubs—before you treat!!

VIDEO: Using IPM to Assess Your Lawn for White Grubs – NYS IPM

  • Dump out any standing water from containers in your yard to prevent mosquito breeding.
A very holey head of cabbage a result of feeding by the imported cabbageworm
Imported cabbageworm damage on cabbage.

How to Manage Mosquitoes in the Landscape – New York State Integrated Pest Management

  • Scout often for pest in your vegetable garden.

What Kind of Insect is Destroying my Plants?– Gardening in Orange County New York Blog

Vegetable Gardening

  • Rejuvenate your soil by planting a fall cover crop such as barley or clover.
Light purple clover flower against a background of green leaves
Clover makes a great fall cover crop.

Webinar: Cover Crops for the Home Garden – Cornell Cooperative Extension Tompkins County

  • Continue to remove weeds, as they compete with your garden plants for water, sunlight, and space.
Bottom of basil eaf covered with downy mildew spores
Basil Downy Mildew
  • Preserve your bounty.

Webinars: Food Preservation – Cornell Cooperative Extension Tompkins County


Happy Gardening!

Black Swallowtail on Lupine ‘Tutti Fruitti’

Gardener’s Checklist

July 2021

Garden Maintenance

  • Purple petunia bloomKeep weeding and mulching.
  • Pinch back petunias to encourage bushy growth.
  • Deadhead annuals and perennials regularly.
  • Keep lawn mower blades sharp.  Mow lawn high (2½ to 3 inches).

Pest Watch

  • Slug on a green leafCheck your garden for slugs and slug damage.
  • Dump out any standing water from containers in your yard to prevent mosquito breeding.

How to Manage Mosquitoes in the Landscape – New York State Integrated Pest Management

  • Colorado potato beetle larvae sitting on a decimated potato leaf
    Colorado potato beetle larvae

    Scout often for pest in your vegetable garden.

What Kind of Insect is Destroying my Plants?– Gardening in Orange County New York Blog

Vegetable Gardening

  • Cluster of Brussels sprouts on plant
    Brussels sprouts

    Keep tucking your indeterminate tomato vines inside the cages.

  • Sow cool season crops.

Virtual Workshop: Summer Planting for an Autumn Harvest – Cornell Cooperative Extension Tompkins County

Brown bullseye lesions on a yellowing tomato leaf
Early blight on tomato
  • Continue to remove weeds, as they compete with your garden plants for water, sunlight, and space.
  • Remove diseased or yellow leaves from tomato plant.

Got Blight? Which One? – NYS Integrated Pest Management


Go pollinators go!

Bumble bee on the petals of an echinacea bloom

Patience is a Virtue in Planting Outdoors

by Joyce Tomaselli, Community Horticulture Educator, Cornell Cooperative Extension Dutchess County

A version of this article appeared in the Times Herald-Record in May of 2017.

Tray of cabbage seedlingsMany sources provide great advice on sowing seeds.  Key factors include sufficient light and temperature for growing the seeds.  But the question inevitably arises when to transplant them outdoors. Don’t rush.  Cold soil and air temperatures can stress plants.  Wait at least a week or two after the last frost.

The latest map from the National  Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) shows the last spring frost date for the Hudson Valley to be between New York, which indicates April 16th and May 15th. But of course these dates are only guides.  In 2020 we had a hard frost on May 15th that severely damaged many plants.  There is no guarantee that frost will not occur after the last date shown.  This map does not tell you the best time to plant tomatoes or other frost-sensitive crops. That date is usually several weeks after the last frost, after the soil has warmed and nighttime temperatures are reliably well above freezing.

  • Map of the showing soil temperature in the nOrtheastern US on May 10, 2021Nighttime temperatures should be consistently above 45°F, and the soil should be warm, about 70°F.  You can use black plastic mulch to warm soil and/or row covers, hot caps or other protection to keep plants warm early in the season. Remove covers whenever temperatures exceed 85°F.
  • Harden off plants before transplanting by reducing water and fertilizer, not by exposing to cold temperatures, which can stress them and stunt growth.
  • Remember that microclimates have a tremendous effect. Some valleys and low-lying areas can be plagued by late frosts on clear, cold nights when there is radiational cooling.  Large bodies of water (such as the Hudson) may moderate air temperatures at some sites, reducing the chances of frost.

Since plant development is temperature-dependent, rather than depending on specific calendar dates we can make decisions based on Growing Degree Days, a measure of accumulated heat or by observing phenological events of plants.

A branch of forsythia in full blloom - yellow flowersPhenology is a branch of science that studies the relationships such as the life cycles of plants and animals and environmental changes. Seasonal changes such as weather or temperature can be correlated with natural events such as bird migration, plant budding, flowering or fruiting and insect activities.  For example, in the Hudson Valley migrating hummingbirds usually arrive when forsythia bloom. Centuries ago, Native Americans began planting corn when oak leaves are the size of a Snowdrop (Galanthus nivalis).

University of Wisconsin Extension has provided some examples of phenological correlations:

  • Dandelion with a bright yellow flower growing in the crack between two paversPlant peas when forsythia blooms.
  • Plant potatoes when the first dandelion blooms.
  • Plant beets, carrots, cole crops, lettuce and spinach when lilac is in first leaf.
  • Plant corn when oak leaves are the size of a squirrel’s ear.
  • Light purple lilac bloomsPlant bean, cucumber, and squash seeds when lilac is in full bloom.
  • Plant tomatoes when lily-of-the-valley plants are in full bloom.
  • Transplant eggplant, melons, and peppers when irises bloom.

So watch the calendar, but also watch for other clues from nature when you’re making decisions about planting and transplanting outdoors.

Gardener’s Checklist

April 2021

Garden Maintenance

  • Evergreen tree with a large section of yellow needles
    Winter burn

    Examine evergreens for winter burn.  Prune out damage after new growth appears.

  • Carefully remove winter mulch from planting beds.
  • Fertilize roses as new growth appears.
  • Clump of white daffodils with bright orange centers and yellow daffodils
    Daffodils

    Get you soil tested before any major planting.

  • Cut flower stalks on daffodils, hyacinths, and other spring flowering bulbs as the flowers fade.  Do not cut foliage until it dies back naturally.
  • Divide and transplant fall blooming perennials.
  • Learn more about how to attract pollinators to your garden.

Creating a Pollinator Garden Workshop – Cornell Cooperative Extension Orange County

Pest Watch

Spotted Lanternfly Look-alikes – Virginia Cooperative Extension

Vegetable Gardening

  • Plant cold season crops early in the month  (i.e. onion sets, lettuce, radishes, spinach, turnips, leeks, etc.).

Vegetable Planing Guide – Cornell Cooperative Extension

Vegetable Gardening Workshop – Cornell Cooperative Extension Orange County


Stop and smell the daffodils!

Small child squatting in a patch of daffodils leaning over to smell one of the blooms

Some Native Seeds Can Be Planted In The Spring

By Pam Golben, Goshen Florida Gardener Volunteer

This article appeared in the March 2021 Issue of Gardening in Orange County.

Rose milkweed with Monarch Butterfly - A large orange and black butterfly with spread wings setting on a cluster of rose-pink flowers
Rose milkweed (Asclepias incarnata) with monarch

Many native seeds require 60, 90 or 120 days of cold, moist conditions (stratification) to break dormancy and germinate.  These seeds should be planted in the fall and will germinate when the conditions are right for them. If you didn’t plant native seeds last fall, do not be discouraged, there are a number of native species that only require 30 days of cold, moist stratification.  If you plant these seeds by mid-March they will still germinate.  In addition, there are native seeds that do not require any special conditioning at all to germinate.

Outdoor / Garden planting: Outdoor planting is the easiest, let Mother Nature do the work!

1) Whether you are planting seed in the ground in March or later, be sure to have an area that is prepared and weed free, weeds will out-compete your native seedlings.   Planting seeds in pots or trays and leaving them in a protected area outside also works very well.

2) Plant native seeds only as deep as the width of the seed.  Very tiny seeds should be sown on the soil surface with only a light dusting of soil over them.  Most of the tiny seeds require exposure to sunlight to germinate.

3) Cover the ground or pots you planted with a piece of window screen or an old cotton sheet.  Covering helps to keep the seeds moist, prevents them from being blown away by the wind and protects them from being eaten by birds.  Remove the cover once you see the seeds have germinated.

4) Do not let seeds and seedlings dry out.  You will need to water if the weather is dry.

5) Always label where your seeds are planted – it is amazing how fast you can forget.

Indoor Cold / Moist stratification:
Wild bergamot with hummingbird moth - Ragged light pink pom-pom flowering being visited by a large moth that resembles a hummingbird
Wild bergamot (Monarda fistulosa) with hummingbird moth

1) Another way to provide 30 days of cold/moist stratification is to sprinkle the seeds on a damp paper towel or coffee filter, fold in half and seal them in a plastic bag.  Place bag in the refrigerator for 30 days.  If seeds germinate before the 30 days, remove them from the paper towel and carefully plant in pots.

2) You could also place the seeds in pots or trays of moist potting mix, seal them in a plastic bag and refrigerate.  After 30 days, remove pots from their bag and place outside in a protected area.

Check out these links that have helpful directions on native seed germination.  They also sell native seeds and provide plant descriptions.  Have fun!

Prairie Moon Nursery

Wild Seed Project

*Please note that different companies may use different codes to designate each type of stratification.

List of Native Plants that can be Planted in March
Common Name Scientific Name Sunlight Soil Moisture
Bloom Time Blossom Color Germ. Code
Purple Coneflower Echinacea pupurea Full/Partial Med Wet – Med Dry July – Sept Purple A
Wild Bergamot Monarda fistulosa Full/Partial Med Wet – Dry July – Sept Lavender A
Spotted Bee Balm Monarda punctata Full/Partial Medium – Med Dry July – Sept Purple, Pink A
Com. Evening Primrose Oenothera biennis Full/Partial Med Wet – Dry June – Nov Yellow A
Mountain Mint Pycnanthemum virginianum Full/Partial Wet – Med Dry June – Sept White A
Blue Sage Salvia azurea Full/Partial Medium – Dry Aug- Oct Blue A
Smooth Blue Aster Symphyotrichum laeve Full/Partial Med Wet – Med Dry Aug – Oct Blue A
Aromatic Aster Symphotrichum oblongifolium Full Med Dry – Dry Aug- Nov Purple A
Shrubby St John’s Wort Hypericum prolificum Full/Partial Med Wet – Med Dry July – Sept Yellow A
Kalm St John’s Wort Hypericum kalmianum Full/Partial Med Wet – Medium July – Aug Yellow A
Purple Prairie Clover Dalea pupurea Full/Partial Medium – Dry July – Sept Purple A
Sneezeweed Helenium autumnale Full/Partial Wet – Med Wet Aug – Oct Yellow A
Anise Hyssop Agastache foeniculum Full/Partial Med – Dry June – Sept Purple C(30)
Pearly Everlasting Anaphelis margaritacea Full/Partial Med Dry – Dry June – Sept White C(30)
Prairie Sage Artemisia ludoviciana Full/Partial Medium – Dry June – Sept Green C(30)
Rose Milkweed Asclepias incarnata Full/Partial Wet – Medium July – Sept Pink C(30)
Prairie Milkweed Asclepias sullivanti Full Med Wet – Medium June – Aug Pink C(30)
Butterfly Milkweed Asclepias tuberosa Full/Partial Medium – Dry June – August Orange C(30)
Whorled Milkweed Asclepias verticillata Full/Partial Medium – Dry July – Sept White C(30)
Tall Bellflower Campanula americana Partial/Shade Med Wet – Med Dry July – Oct Blue C(30)
Harebell Campanula ratundifolia Full/Partial Med Dry – Dry June- Sept Purple C(30)
Partridge Pea Chamaecrista fasciculata Full/Partial Medium – Dry July – Sept Yellow C(30)
Lance-Leaf Coreopsis Coreopsis lanceolata Full Med Dry – Dry May – Aug Yellow C(30)
Bonset Eupatorium perfoliatum Full/Partial Wet – Med Wet July – Sept White C(30)
Joe Pye Weed Eutrochium maculatum Full/Partial Wet – Med Wet July – Sept Pink C(30)
Early Sunflower Heliopsis helianthoides Full/Partial Med Wet – Med Dry June – Sept Yellow C(30)
Fox Glove Beardtongue Penstemon digitalis Full/Partial Medium-Med Dry June-July White C(30)
Yellow Coneflower Ratibida pinnata Full/Partial Medium – Med Dry July – Sept Yellow C(30)
Black-Eyed Susan Rudbeckia hirta Full/Partial Med Wet – Med Dry June – Oct Yellow C(30)

A = seeds need no stratification; C(30) = seeds need 30 days of cold, moist stratification

Information from Prairie Moon Nursery.

Out in the Garden

As the days get warmer and the sun sets later and later, I hope you all have the opportunity to spend more and more time outside.  Sunshine and fresh air are good for the soul!

If you happen to have a garden or have decided that this is the year to start one there are lots of things to keep you busy at this time of year!

Perennial Beds

A mantis egg mass, straw colored foam like mass the size of a golf ball, on the branch of a forsythia bush covered with yellow flower buds
Mantis ootheca on forsythia

Hopefully you waited until spring to clean up your garden to allow beneficial insects and other arthropods such as bees and butterflies to overwinter.  Now that spring has sprung you should leave debris as long as you can to give these creatures a chance to emerge from their winter hiding places.  You should start carefully removing debris from around blossoming plants.  If you must cut back hollow stems, bundle them so any pollinators overwintering inside have a chance to emerge.   As you are cleaning up be on the look out for praying mantis egg cases know as ootheca.   This is one time when you should leave things till tomorrow!

Freshly mulched garden bed in front of a house
Freshly mulched garden beds

Mulching is another spring time activity.  There are many different types of organic mulch that will not only suppress weeds, but also add organic material to the soil as they break down.  You don’t have to mulch everything, in fact many ground nesting bees such as bumble bees need a bit of bare earth to make their nests.  And if you are mulching your trees make sure to keep the mulch at least 3 inches away from the base of the tree so that it is not touching the bark.

And it is never to early to start weeding!  Lots of winter annual weeds such as common chickweed and prickly lettuce have already sprouted!

Vegetable and Herb Gardening

Starting Seeds Indoors

It is not to late to seed one more round of cool season crop such as cabbage, kale,  and lettuce, but it is also time to start seeding warm season crops such as eggplant, peppers, and tomatoes.

To start seeds you will need:

      • seeds
Several flats of seedlings
Flats of seedlings

There are lots of places online where you can purchase seeds. If you still have seeds left over from last year and don’t know if they are still good, don’t throw them out, try this simple home germination test.

      • sterile potting mix

It is important to use sterile potting mix to avoid disease issues like damping off.  Do not reuse potting mix and do not use garden compost.

      • container
20 or 30 chard seelings sprouting in a small plastic container filled with soil
Rainbow chard seedlings in a supermarket salad container

You don’t need to buy a fancy container to start seeds.  Just make sure the container has been sterilized and has drainage holes.

      • water

You want to keep the soil moist, but be careful not to over water or you may have a problem with damping off.

      • light source
A bookcase converted into a light frame for seedlings -grow lights above seed trays placed on the shelves
Bookcase converted into a grow frame

Some seeds need  light to germinate, but all seeds need light after they germinate. Once your seeds sprout  a light source will help prevent them from becoming leggy.  You can purchase grow lights or just use a soft white fluorescent bulb.  Here are directions on how to build a Low-Cost Grow-Light Frame.

      • heat
Mini greenhouse made from areused plastic container covering a small tray with 8 small cups of soilEight small cups of soil
Mini greenhouse

Most seeds will germinate between the temperatures of 55°F and 75°F,  but the optimal temperature for each type of seed varies.  You can create a mini-green house to trap heat and moisture.  You can also buy heating mats to warm the soil.  Click here to see  Soil Temperature Conditions for Vegetable Seed Germination.

Out in the Garden

A small child in a jean shirt, teal skirt and bright yellow rain boots put seeds in the ground
Planting peas

Gardening is an activity for the whole family!  Children love helping plant seeds!  Right now you can be direct seeding cool season crops in your garden such as beets, carrots, lettuce, peas, radishes, spinach, and turnips.  If you want to have a continual harvest, consider succession planting or  seeding several smaller plantings of the same crop at timed intervals, rather than all at once.

Chive plant in a raised garden bed
Chives

While most people are busy seeding, some perennial plants are already coming up or even ready to harvest!  Chives are a great example of a perennial that allows you add something fresh and green to your meals in the early spring.  If you planted chives in your garden last year, they are probably already making their way to your table.  This perennial of the onion family begins growing in early March and is able to be snipped with scissors and eaten soon after and throughout the growing season right up until the fall frost.

Crinkly green and dark purple leaves with bright pink stems sticking out ogf the soil
Rhubarb

Another perennial making an appearance is rhubarb!  Rhubarb is a great addition to any vegetable garden and as it is deer resistant and highly attractive it can also be used as part of your edible landscape.  Although the leaves of rhubarb are considered poisonous, the stems of this spring crop that can be used to make the classic strawberry rhubarb pie as well as many other delicious snacks.

Click here for vegetable gardening resources! 

And as always, if you are having any issues in your garden, need help identifying the cause of a problem or figuring out a management strategy give us a call.  Our Garden Helpline phones are staffed April – November, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, from 9:30 am – 12:30 pm.  But you can always leave us a message or send us an e-mail.

Call (845) 343-0664 or e-mail your questions to mghelpline@cornell.edu.


Whatever kind of garden you have, spend some time enjoying its beauty!

A hanging ball of greens and fuzzy pussy wilow branches
December’s Kissing Ball transformed into a ‘Kitty Ball’ by the addition of Pussy Willow branches

Thanks to all of the Master Gardener Volunteers who provided their thoughts and photos for this post!