Tag Archives: insects

Pest Watch Update: Bagworms!

by Susan Ndiaye, Community Horticulture Educator

It is time to revisit our post on bagworms! Over the weekend, I was notified by the National Phenology Network that bagworm caterpillars will be emerging in our area in the next six days. If you need to treat a tree that has been infested with bagworms in the past, it is important to do so soon after emergence when the caterpillars are small, as treatments are not effective against larger caterpillars.


pinecone like structure hanging on an evergreen tree

Have you ever noticed one of these structures hanging on a Colorado blue spruce or an arborvitae? They kind of look like pine cones, but not exactly. Well, they aren’t pine cones, but silken bags spun and decorated by bagworms (Thyridopteryx ephemeraeform).

Bagworms are moths whose larvae feed on evergreens such as spruce, juniper, pine and arborvitae. The larvae can also feed on deciduous trees such as maple, elm, birch and sycamore. Bagworms defoliate the trees and shrubs they infest. In large numbers, bagworms can cause significant defoliation, which can lead to the death of the plant.

Bagworm Lifecycle

In late spring, bagworm eggs, which overwinter in their mother’s silken bag, hatch and caterpillars emerge. These caterpillars begin to form new silk bags, and as they eat, they cover it with bits of leaves. As the caterpillar grows, it expand its bags. Then in late summer the caterpillar firmly attaches its bag to the plant and pupates.

Adult male bagworm - clear winged moth with furry brown body
Adult male bagworm

Complete metamorphosis from caterpillar to moth takes about four weeks. Adult male bagworms emerge from their bags as clear winged moths and begin to search for a mate. Adult female bagworms are wingless moths and never leave their bags. After mating females produce 500-1000 eggs before dying. Their eggs overwinter inside their mother’s silken bag and the whole cycle begins again.

Management

Because bagworms are protected by their silken bag, management can be tricky. For smaller trees and shrubs the best tactic is to remove and destroy the bags by hand. Unfortunately, this is not possible in all instances, especially on larger trees and shrubs. Insecticides are most effective right after bagworm eggs hatch, when the caterpillars are small.

But how does one know when the eggs are going to hatch? Well, it turns out that there is a “Bagworm Forecast” that you can check in the spring to determine the best time to apply insecticide. The maps provided by this forecast are updated daily and available six days in the future, so you can plan ahead.

For recommendations on pesticides, check out the resources below. And as always, make sure you read and follow all the instructions on the pesticide label including the use of personal protective equipment. The label is the law!

If you need to spray a larger tree, you may need to contact an arborist. Click here to find a certified arborist near you.

Fun Facts

As females don’t fly, you may wonder how bagworms spread. Bagworm caterpillars can balloon, or use their silk threads to catch the wind and travel long distances.

Despite relatively little protection for overwintering bagworm eggs, research at Purdue University found that it takes a 24 hr period at -0.6 ° F or below to kill the eggs. So if you live in Orange County New York don’t expect a cold winter to kill off your bagworms.

Here is a video of a bagworm feeding!

Video from Purdue University Landscape Report (https://www.purduelandscapereport.org/article/824/)

Resources

Bagworm – Penn State University

Bagworms – Cornell University

Bagworm Forecast – USA National Phenology Network

Bagworms on Landscape Plants – University of Kentucky

Cold weather in January 2018 may have killed bagworms in some parts of Indiana – Landscape Report, Purdue University

Book Reviews

Photo: Person with long brown hair, wearing comfy socks and sweat pants, sitting on the floor in front of a blazing fire place reading a book as a black and white cat rests its head on their legWinter has arrived!  While there isn’t much to be doing outside in our gardens, the winter is a great opportunity to spend time learning more about gardening.  So grab one of these books recommended by our Master Gardener Volunteers, sit by the fire, and spend time cultivating your mind this winter.


Book List

Freedom’s Gardener: James F. Brown, Horticulture, and the Hudson Valley in Antebellum America by Myra Beth Young Armstead

Garden Alchemy: 80 Recipes and Concoctions for Organic Fertilizers, Plant Elixirs, Potting Mixes, Pest Deterrents, and More by Stephanie Rose

Good Garden Bugs by Mary M. Gardiner, Ph. D.

The Know Maintenance Perennial Garden by Roy Diblik

Natural Companions: The Garden Lover’s Guide to Plant Combinations by Ken Druse

Square Foot Gardening with Kids by Mel Bartholomew

The Week-by-Week Vegetable Gardner’s Handbook by Ron and Jennifer Kujawski

The Weekend Homesteader: A Twelve Month Guide to Self-Sufficiency by Anna Hess

The Well-Gardened Mind: The Restorative Power of Nature by Sue Stuart-Smith

A Year at Brandywine Cottage by David L. Culp

Your Wellbeing Garden: How to Make Your Garden Good for You – Science, Design, Function by D.K. Publishing


Book Cover: Freedom's Gardener - Drawing of four-petaled white violetFreedom’s Gardener: James F. Brown, Horticulture, and the Hudson Valley in Antebellum America

by Myra Beth Young Armstead

Reviewed by Madelene Knaggs, New Windsor Master Gardener Volunteer

Freedom’s Gardener
is impeccably researched and full of detail. It is the kind of book that grabs the attention of readers interested in gardening, local history, Black history, and the concept of freedom. Armstead, a professor of history at Bard College, extracts small details from the diary of James F. Brown to compose a story illustrating the concept of freedom as it developed in the United States in the decades following the Revolutionary War.

James F. Brown was born a slave in 1793 and died a free man in 1868. He escaped slavery in Maryland to the Hudson Valley of New York State, where he was employed as a gardener by the wealthy Verplanck family in Beacon, NY (on what is presently the Mount Gulian Historic Site).

Brown kept a detailed diary over 39 years, with entries covering weather, gardening, and steamboat schedules, as well as domestic matters. James began his career with the Verplancks as a waiter and a laborer, but eventually assumed the duties as the Verplanck Estate’s master gardener. He managed and supervised garden, farm, and nursery workers. He was also responsible for making major purchases for the Verplanck house and garden. He frequently interacted in Newburgh with Andrew Jackson Downing, the famed lAmerican landscape designer and editor of The Horticulturist magazine (1846–1852). Brown attended the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society Show in Philadelphia as well as the New York Horticultural Society Exhibition.

This book has been recommended by the Library Journal to historians of antebellum America and the social aspects of horticulture, as well as those interested in historical diaries. Armstead’s well-researched study of Brown’s work greatly expands our understanding of the Hudson Valley and the people and plants that have shaped it.

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Book Cover: Garden Alchemy - Photo containing an assortment of flowers and herbsGarden Alchemy: 80 Recipes and Concoctions for Organic Fertilizers, Plant Elixirs, Potting Mixes, Pest Deterrents, and More

by Stephanie Rose

Reviewed by Mary Presutti, New Windsor Master Gardener Volunteer

As a newly minted Master Gardener Volunteer, I frequently turn to my class notes for advice in the garden. Now I have another, more portable source. In this one handy, slim volume, Canadian Master Gardener Stephanie Rose has compiled a nifty hands-on guide with useful recipes to get everyone’s garden in top shape.

The book is loaded with step-by-step instructions beginning with homemade methods to test your soil, then on to recipes for soil amendment, custom mulch, compost boosters, fertilizers, garden teas, potting soils, and even a method to produce your own worm castings. The ingredients are common items available in your home.

Even wildlife has not been left out. There are techniques for encouraging as well as discouraging nature in the garden. Some of my plants go outdoors in the summer months. They invariably bring fungus gnats back indoors in the fall. She has a fix to keep them away. She also includes a bottle trap for flies, wasps, and stinkbugs—all with their own individual bait recipes.

As a plus, Ms. Rose has included some fun activities to keep gardeners occupied while their plants are sleeping this winter season. You can make seed bombs, suet holders, butterfly puddlers, and more.

Garden Alchemy is chock full of beautiful, interesting photographs and diagrams that complement the easy to understand, straight to the point text. I recommend it for all gardeners.

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Book Cover: Good Garden Bugs - Photo of a black and yellow stripped hover fly resting in the center of a bright yellow flowerGood Garden Bugs

by Mary M. Gardiner, Ph.D.

Review by Donna Beyer, New Windsor Master Gardener Volunteer

All gardeners must deal with bugs — good bugs, bad bugs — but some of us aren’t sure which is which. Good Garden Bugs is directed to the home gardener who might not know the difference. As gardeners, we invest time and effort into making our gardens the most beautiful and productive they can be, yet bugs can present challenges to our efforts. Most of us understand the need for good bugs, but sometimes find it difficult to live in harmony with them.

The book begins by providing information on the classification, anatomy, and the life cycle of garden bugs. The information helps the gardener understand how each stage of a bug’s development has different enemies and threats, and is presented in a way that non-academics can understand. How bugs overwinter and mature provides the gardener with valuable insight into promoting good garden bugs.

The chapter that discusses controls we use to regulate bug populations can help gardeners understand how their actions affect them. This section also stresses the need for native plants to promote healthy habitats that support good bug populations.

The chapters that follow are the core of the book. Each subsequent chapter is dedicated to an order of bug that describes the unique attributes and common examples of bugs that fall into that order. The book also includes large color photos with descriptions of each.

Over half the chapters are dedicated to wasps, beetles, and spiders. These bugs are the most plentiful and can be difficult to identify. These orders can do serious damage to plants and humans alike, so being able to identify these “good” bugs is especially important. Gardeners want to promote good bugs that fall into these orders, but also want to protect themselves and their gardens.

Currently, in the age of the internet, having a resource you can carry to the garden that will assist with pest identification is invaluable. This book is slim but does not skimp on content and is a valuable addition to a home gardener’s library.

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Book Cover: The Know Maintenance Perennial Garden - Photo of perennial garden with purple flowers in bloomThe Know Maintenance Perennial Garden

by Roy Diblik

Reviewed by Cecille Jones, Monroe Master Gardener Volunteer

If the title of this book doesn’t hook you, perhaps the words on the cover will. In red ink, it loudly declares knowing your plants means less work. Or perhaps you’ve heard of Roy Diblik, the renowned plantsman behind the Lurie Garden at Millennium Park in Chicago.

Diblik’s approach to gardening stresses harmony with how plants grow and interact with each other. He advocates knowing your plants so you can plant them in self-sustaining communities. By doing so, you will spend less time maintaining them and more time enjoying them.

The author focuses on perennials because he believes they are the foundation of durable, diverse and beautiful gardens. According to Diblik, once you’re familiar with perennials, then you will recognize how and when to add annuals, vegetables, herbs, shrubs and trees.

Diblik believes that traditional gardening has become so culturally defined over the last 50 years that it is now a source of frustration and defeat for most gardeners.

In the first four chapters, he covers the basics – from understanding plant growth to soil, light, site preparation, and more. Chapter 5 covers 74 key perennials selected for their dependability, suitability to the northern half of the U.S., adaptability to soil & seasonal changes, and durability.

The true treasure is saved for Chapter 6 and beyond, where Diblik provides more than 60 garden plans, each designed to cover a 10 – 14’ rectangle, categorized by plans for growing in sun or shade, and complete with notes on care and maintenance. Assuming you are diligent about care and maintenance, Diblik claims that each plan should take about 3 to 4 hours of work per week.

Diblik’s approach will put you on a path to a style of gardening that stresses harmony, simplicity and enjoyment.

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Book Cover: Natural Companions - Photo of several colorful flower blossoms and colorful leaves arranged on a black backgroundNatural Companions: The Garden Lover’s Guide to Plant Combinations

by Ken Druse

Reviewed by Gerda Krogslund, Middletown Senior Master Gardener Volunteer

For this book, author Ken Druse worked in conjunction with artist Ellen Hoverkamp who provided the beautiful botanical photographs throughout. Each chapter explores plants in a different light looking at season, family, form, function, color, spirit of place, or theme.

Take a journey through the seasons starting with signs of spring and continuing through the year concluding with winter and new awakenings. Learn about different plant families and delve into the numerous varieties found in each. Form follows function – examine the many different shapes, textures, structures and growth habit of flowers and other plants. Be inspired by pictures of flowers with both similar colors and exciting color combinations. Consider the spirit of place and think about what you can plant in woodlands, meadows, wetlands, rain gardens, and rock gardens. Explore themed gardens grown for fragrance, roses, pollinators, birds, cutting, edible plants, herbs, medicinal plants, and toxic plants.

This is not a “how-to” manual but a book that suggests possible plant combinations for your consideration. It gives you lots of ideas in which you can take your reliable basic plants and add others to make your garden even more spectacular. Ken Druse knows that gardening is very personable and suggests that while you read through the book, you make lists of combinations that appeal to you.

A garden is never really complete but more a work in progress as we continually experiment with new plants and new plant arrangements. I’ve spent hours going through this book and I know I’ll come back again and again.

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Book Cover: Square Foot Gardening with Kids - Small boy picking tomatoesSquare Foot Gardening with Kids

by Mel Bartholomew

Reviewed by Brooke Moore, New Windsor Master Gardener Volunteer

Getting children interested in growing food and learning more about the natural world is an admirable goal. And one that does not have to be boring or pedantic.

This lovely book by the master of Square Foot Gardening, provides kids from toddlers to teens with all the tools they need to build, manage, grow and harvest a vegetable garden. It encourages starting small and building more as confidence and experience lead one to wanting a larger planting area.

With a format that provides age-appropriate tasks and goals at every step, this book also works for the whole family. I loved that there are clues to help parents not be overly involved but rather encourage the children to figure out how to do things themselves. It covers building raised beds, making soil mixes, how to make a grid system, water issues, protecting plants from predators, best growing practices, and much more.

Teachers and classroom projects are also a part of the book, and these can be used by anyone. Math, science, art, and history are all related to gardening, and the book provides simple and interesting activities to bring these skills into the garden and to use the garden to develop entirely new ones. Measuring, weighing, keeping a planting journal are all well described and encouraged. There are good photos and illustrations for each step and lots of handy tips and “how to” suggestions.

This is a book with “kids” in the title, but it truly is a book for anyone and everyone interested in exploring how to use this simple system to have a successful garden harvest.

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Book Cover: The Week-by-Week Vegetable Gardener's HandbookThe Week-by-Week Vegetable Gardner’s Handbook

by Ron and Jennifer Kujawski

Reviewed by Kimberly Marshall, Washingtonville Master Gardener Volunteer

If there were only one vegetable gardening book I could use throughout the gardening year, it would be The Week-by-Week Vegetable Gardener’s Handbook by Ron and Jennifer Kujawski. This dynamic father-and-daughter gardening duo have made an indispensable resource that should grace the bookshelves of vegetable gardeners everywhere.

It provides week-by-week vegetable gardening how-to’s that coincide with each planting season. A chart at the beginning of the book helps you identify where you are in your own area’s growing season, using your first and last frost dates as a guide. For example, if your last frost date is mid-May, as it is for many of us here in Orange County, you enter that date in the calendar’s “Week 1,” which starts your weekly to-do’s (first week, two weeks out, three weeks out, etc.).

Based on these dates, the book explains which week to start seeds indoors, plant cover crops, look for pests, harvest your crops, and fertilize each and every vegetable you can think of, with plenty of gardening tips and tricks along the way. There are even steps for gardening in the winter, with instructions for planning gardens and ordering seeds, so you can work on or think about your garden all year long.

The book also includes space for journaling your thoughts and experiences. There is ample room for notes in each section to remind yourself of what you planted and any issues you might have experienced, helping you to avoid making the same mistakes the following year.

If you’re looking for a step-by-step vegetable gardening book that tells you exactly what to do and when to do it, give this one a try—especially if you find the idea of vegetable gardening a bit overwhelming, like I do. It breaks everything down into easy steps, making even the scariest parts of gardening seem effortless while helping you realize what’s truly possible for your garden along the way.

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Book Cover: The Weekend Homesteader - Grid of gardening photos: pea shoots, rubber boots, chicken, peppers, etc.The Weekend Homesteader: A Twelve Month Guide to Self-Sufficiency

by Anna Hess

Reviewed by Robin Portelli, Cornwall Master Gardener Volunteer

As I was perusing through gardening books on the Libby App from my local library, the book title, The Weekend Homesteader: A Twelve-Month Guide to Self Sufficiency by Anna Hess caught my attention. I was envisioning a book with information that would inspire me to become a self-sufficient gardener without feeling overwhelmed or pressured that I needed to go off the grid or never buy grocery produce again. I was not disappointed.

In her introduction, Anna Hess immediately connects with the novice homesteader. She understands that the dream of full-time homesteading can be daunting for most people. “Weekend Homesteader is full of short projects that you can use to dip your toes into the vast ocean of homesteading without becoming overwhelmed,” she writes. So, I began to read.

The book is divided by months beginning in the month of April or October if you live down under. Each month introduces you to topics that are important factors in growing a successful garden and maintaining a small homestead. Some homesteading basics covered that are more familiar to most of us include budgeting skills and record keeping (ugh!), healthy soil, garden rotation, and how to build a chicken coop. Anna Hess also touches upon less well-known details and tips such as how to find space to plant if you live in the city, how to stay warm without electricity for longer periods of time, and how to extend the gardening season by making your own garden hoops. Recipes, canning, cooking, and details of food/seed storing options are among some of the other multitude of topics.

Overall, I would give this book 4.5/5 stars.

Pros: It was well organized and gave many tips that only an experienced homesteader would know. It could help a novice homesteader avoid rookie mistakes. This book was published in 2012, but the topics and information are still very practical and relevant.

Cons: It covers the basics so an already experienced homesteader may not reap much benefit by reading it. Also, it is missing a chapter specific to urban gardening topics.

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Book Cover: The Well-Gardener Mind - Drawing of a head in which the outline of the face is a green stem and the head has branches coverd with green leavesThe Well-Gardened Mind: The Restorative Power of Nature

by Sue Stuart-Smith

Reviewed by Sharon Lunden, Goshen Master Gardener Volunteer

In The Well-Gardened Mind, Stuart-Smith, a British psychiatrist and psychotherapist, delves into the therapeutic aspects of immersing yourself in a garden. This is not a how-to garden book but instead outlines the well-researched benefits to the human body, mind, and soul to be found in the natural world around us.

Our brain cells are like branching trees, requiring pruning, weeding, and room to grow. Experience and pain can be “composted” into something beneficial. Gardens reflect our lives, periods of yield and beauty, loss and rest. Our minds as gardens seek light, cultivation, seeding, nourishment, watering, and replenishment. Souls and bodies begin to heal and thrive in the peace, safety, and beauty of the confines of a flower or vegetable garden. We need the earth as much as the earth needs us to care for and cherish it, a full circle. By learning to care for a garden, we better learn to care for ourselves and others.

This is a fascinating book which I recommend to you, as it can prove helpful and comforting in the midst of the stress of these difficult times.

If we put energy into cultivating the earth, we are given something back. There is magic in it and there is hard work in it, but the fruits and flowers of the earth are a form of goodness that is real; they are worth believing in and are not out of reach. When we sow a seed, we plant a narrative of future possibility. It is an action of hope. Not all the seeds we sow will germinate, but there is a sense of security that comes from knowing you have seeds in the ground. (pp. 65–66)

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Book Cover: A Year at Brandywine Cottage - Photos: Harvested beets, radishes, and peas / A lush garden with a white cottage in in the backgroundA Year at Brandywine Cottage

by David L. Culp

Reviewed by Madelene Knaggs, New Windsor Master Gardener Volunteer

A Year at Brandywine Cottage leads us on a journey through an exquisite garden that represents a lifetime of hard work, passion, successes and disappointments, experience and knowledge. Engaging prose and beautiful photography take the armchair gardener on a virtual tour through each season as the author informs us of the Latin genus and species and the botanical and historical facts about each plant.

Author and gardener David Culp states, “By looking closely at my garden over a period of time, and allowing it to speak to me, I find that the garden at Brandywine Cottage wants six seasons. As you will see, this book chronicles what happens in my garden over the course of those seasons.”

Culp demonstrates his deep knowledge of plants season by season with such tips and techniques for a successful layered garden as adding pots of tropicals (he has 400 pots) into the beds to boost a tired August garden, or clipping distracting dead leaves off hellebores before they bloom. He also weaves in family and local recipes using ingredients from his own beautiful vegetable garden.

Beginning in February (in the chapter “Early Spring”), he shows us the sleepy phase in the garden when most people are oblivious to any plant life. He proves that there is much to behold—the emerging bulbs of crocus, dwarf iris, glory-of-the-snow, winter aconite, witch hazels, and the author’s large collection of snowdrops. As the season progresses into March, daffodils and hellebores take center stage. He continues to show the progression and overlapping from season to season and from outdoors to inside the home.

This book will inspire readers with ideas for their own gardens, and will encourage plans in anticipation of the upcoming season.

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Book Cover: Your Wellbeing Garden - Drawing of garden bench with trees on both sides and a potted flower sitting on itYour Wellbeing Garden: How to Make Your Garden Good for You – Science, Design, Function

by D.K. Publishing

Review by Patricia Henighan, Walden Master Gardener Volunteer

If you have been gardening for a while, you probably don’t need to be convinced that your garden is good for you. Nevertheless, this delightfully designed and easy to digest book uses scientific research drawn together by a team of scientists from the Royal Horticultural Society to present the whys and hows of creating an outdoor space that nourishes both the mind and the body, and is good for the planet. Each section encapsulates the latest research on topics such as how to fight air pollution, reduce noise pollution, help pollinators, address climate change, and provide fodder for your brain.

The authors use diagrams and illustrations to explain concepts such as how different types of leaves trap air pollutants and why vegetation is a better at reducing noise pollution than a fence or a wall. They explore topics such as Ogren Plant Allergy Scale (OPALS) which rates plants from 1 to 10 for allergenicity using eye-catching illustrations that show why certain flower and tree species are better choices if you are looking to avoid flying pollen.

Many people spend time outside to find peace and tranquility in a chaotic world. Research has found that when seeking “natural restoration”, we respond best to natural features that are moderately complex – not too smooth and not too busy. A grassy area with openings and some trees provides the highest rewards for inducing tranquility. Fractals or repeating branching patterns, which occur frequently in nature, can be added to a garden to ensure the landscape provides release for the brain from stress and anxiety. The authors encourage you to design a mindfulness corner with a comfortable seat in an area cushioned from street noise with a soothing sound of water or bees buzzing. Who said gardens must be all work?

Gardening can be a solitary pursuit or a communal activity. It can benefit people from all walks of life. Children and adults with special needs can benefit from the experience of growing flowers and food crops. Horticultural therapy is a way in which gardening is used to help people suffering from trauma and illness. For immigrants, growing crops from their home country can help to allay homesickness. And when it comes to children and gardening, psychologists have found that children can cultivate character by taking care of their own individual garden plots. It is also thought that by handling dirt at an early age, children increase their exposure to beneficial microbes, which may boost the immune system.

Since climate change is an ongoing challenge for everyone, the last section covers many aspects of creating a sustainable garden. There are suggestions on how to change barren, water-gobbling lawns into more resilient spaces and the latest recommendations on how to care for your soil, avoid impermeable surfaces, capture run-off, and design rain gardens. Obviously, it is a win-win situation as making your garden better for you will also make it better for the environment.

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Clean Your Garden with Insects in Mind

by Mary Carol Presutti, New Windsor Master Gardener Volunteer

Between now and mum season there are a few things you can do to get a head start for spring cleanup with minimum fuss.


Weed

A pair of gloved hands holding some freshly picked weedsThis is a perfect time to get a start on weed management for the spring.  Shorter days and colder weather in the months ahead will reduce the activity of plant growth.  You want to keep the process as natural as possible.  Pull weeds to your hearts content without overly disturbing the soil.  Don’t use hoes or rakes, and don’t turn the soil over unless you must.  When you disturb the soil too much seeds resting on top of soil get planted in the loose soil, and seeds deep in the soil are brought closer to the surface where they will be able to sprout.  Every time you move soil around without a purpose, the roots and seeds of unwanted plants are given the go ahead to sprout away.

Organic Weed Management – Cornell University


Mulch

Freshly mulched garden bed in front of a houseBare soil is an invitation for weeds to… well, put down roots!  Cover weeds that you want gone by the spring with a layer of weighted cardboard. Sometimes I think I shop online more for the cardboard shipping boxes then for what’s inside.  I also love using sheets of bark from my fireplace wood in and around my garden plants.  Tree bark adds nutrients, cuts down on weed growth, and is a good insulator for tender plants.  Grass clippings or shredded leaves make a nice winter mulch, but cut up leaves soon after they fall to the ground before insects and small animals take shelter.  Rake only the leaves you need to, leaving a goodly amount for insects to find winter cover.

Organic Garden Mulches to Conserve Moisture and Prevent Weeds – South Dakota State University Extension

Leave the Leaves – Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation


Seed

A group of blazing star blooms - cyclindrical spikes covered with tiny purple flowers
Blazing star

There are so many plants that seed themselves if you leave them be, although you must be patient as they will need a year or two to establish themselves from seed.  Here are a few of my favorites

Self-Seeding Perennials – University of Minnesota Extension

Which flowers are self-sowing? – University of New Hampshire Extension


Collect Seeds

Three milkweed seed pods that have been spilt open. One is empty and the other two contain lots of small, brown, oval-shaped seed attached to a silky strands that will help disperse the wind disperse them.
Milkweed seed pods

I love collecting seeds and seed heads as they mature throughout the year.  I either give them to friends or propagate them in other areas of my own garden.  Make sure you collect seeds from plants that produce viable seeds.  Some cultivars are bred to be sterile, and hybrids may produce seed, but the offspring will not necessarily resemble the parent plant.  It is best to stick with uncultivated species and their varieties.  Seeds and seed pods vary greatly.  Milkweed produces seed pods which open to disperse seeds, while catmint, verbena, and blazing star produce seed heads after the plants flower.   Research gathering techniques, proper storage, and how to plant different kinds of seeds in your garden.

Saving Seeds from Annuals and Perennials – The National Gardening Association

How to Collect and Store Seeds – Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center


Disease Management

Black, yellow, and white stripped monarch caterpillar feeding on milkweed.
Monarch caterpillar

If you grow native milkweeds, consider cutting back the plants this month to discourage next year’s growth from harboring any diseases that may have been left by this year’s monarchs. The most prevalent is Ophryocystis elektroscirrha, a parasitic protozoan that affects caterpillars.  An infected monarch butterfly can host thousands of these parasites on their wings.  Dispose of the cuttings with your regular trash instead of composting.

A wild begamont plant with leaves covered witha white substance.
Powdery mildew on wild bergamont

The stems and leaves of diseased plants should also be cut and disposed of in the trash as well.  A good example is wild bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), which is very susceptible to powdery mildew.  If left alone the mildew will overwinter on the old stems and may transfer to new growth in springtime.

Powdery Mildew of Ornamentals –  Cornell Cooperative Extension Nassau County


Create Habitat for Pollinators

Milweed stems that have been cut back so the hollow stem can be used for by cavity nesting bees
Cut back milkweed stems

One way to help local native bee populations is to encourage nesting in your garden.  Cut back some of the hollow-stemmed plants like Joe-Pye weed (Eutrochium spp.) and milkweed leaving them about a foot tall as to create a space for cavity nesting bees to nest.  For the ground nesting bees, avoid heavy wood mulches which are impossible for these small insects to burrow into.

Pollinator Nesting Resources – Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation

Wild Bees of New York – Cornell University


Pest Watch: Mosquitoes in our Ecosystem

By Cecille Jones, Monroe Master Gardener Volunteer

This article appeared in the August 2021 Issue of Gardening in Orange County.

Graphic: The World's Deadliest Animals (Number of People Killed by Animals per year): Mosquito 725,000; Human 475,000; Snake 50,000; Dog 25,000; Tsete fly (sleeping sickness) 10,000; Assassin Bug (Chagas disease) 10,000; Freshwater Snail (schistocomiasis) 10,000; Ascaris roundworm 2,500; Tapeworm 2,000; Crocodile 1,000; Hippopotamus 500; Elephant 100; Lion 100; Wolf 10; Shark 10 (Source: Gatesnotes) StatistaDid you know one of the smallest insects in the world also happens to be the deadliest to humans?  Yup, those pesky mosquitoes renowned for ruining many an outdoor evening event kill more humans every year than sharks, snakes, lions, crocodiles, and hippos combined.  Of course they don’t do it alone; mosquitoes do not actually cause diseases themselves but act as vectors (carriers) for deadly diseases such as malaria, encephalitis, dengue fever, yellow fever, West Nile virus and Zika, to name a few.  To transmit these diseases, mosquitoes first need to feed on the blood of a human or other animal that is already infected by the disease.  Afterwards when they bite a healthy human, they pass on the disease.

Close-up of a blood filled mosquito
Female Mosquito

There are as many as 3,500 species of mosquitoes and they live on every continent except Antarctica. Not all mosquitoes bite, some adult mosquitoes feed exclusively flower nectar. And for the mosquitoes that do bite, less than one hundred species are carriers of horrible diseases. And it is only the female mosquitoes that take a blood meal from hosts like us. And they only do it, because they need the protein from our blood to produce their eggs.

 Larvae of Culex Mosquitoes. As seen on the picture, larvae make dense groups in standing water. A shift in the feeding behavior of those mosquitoes helps explain the rising incidence of West Nile virus in North America. It appears that the darker structure at the top center of the image is one pupa.
Mosquito larvae (Culex sp.)

So, what are mosquitoes good for, you ask?  Mosquito larvae are an integral part of the aquatic ecosystems in which they live.  Mosquito larvae that live in wetlands consume a lot of organic matter. By straining organic particles through their system and converting into their own tissue matter they help recycle nutrients back into the ecosystem.  Mosquito larvae serve as an important food source for other aquatic animals such as dragonfly larva and fish.  From the human point of view, mosquitoes seem to exist to annoy us or make us sick, but from the point of view of spiders, birds, bats, reptiles, amphibians, fish, and other animals that rely on them as a source of food, mosquitoes are important for survival.  For example, in the Arctic tundra, birds rely on the swarms of mosquitoes to stay alive.

A mosquito feeding on the nectar of flower with petals and a brown centerMosquitoes are beneficial to plants as well.  Many adult mosquitoes depend on plant nectar for their energy, and while retrieving the nectar, they also pollinate plants.  And as we know that pollination is key to plant reproduction, mosquitoes play an important role in helping plants survive so they can provide food and shelter for other organisms.

The reality is that not enough is known about all the interspecies interactions of mosquitoes to get rid of them without doing harm to other species in our ecosystems.  In the meantime, scientists are studying mosquito saliva in hopes of finding properties that can lead to the development of anti-clotting drugs that can be used to treat cardiovascular disease.  Until that day arrives, we may not have a conclusive answer to the question: What are mosquitoes good for?

Learn more about mosquitoes:

VIDEO: Mosquitoes in Your Back Yard – NYS Integrated Pest Management, Cornell University

Mosquitoes – NYS Integrated Pest Management, Cornell University

Mosquitoes – Medical Entomology, Purdue University

Meet the Mosquito With a Big Appetite⁠—for Other Mosquitoes – Entomology Today


Gardener’s Checklist

July 2021

Garden Maintenance

  • Purple petunia bloomKeep weeding and mulching.
  • Pinch back petunias to encourage bushy growth.
  • Deadhead annuals and perennials regularly.
  • Keep lawn mower blades sharp.  Mow lawn high (2½ to 3 inches).

Pest Watch

  • Slug on a green leafCheck your garden for slugs and slug damage.
  • Dump out any standing water from containers in your yard to prevent mosquito breeding.

How to Manage Mosquitoes in the Landscape – New York State Integrated Pest Management

  • Colorado potato beetle larvae sitting on a decimated potato leaf
    Colorado potato beetle larvae

    Scout often for pest in your vegetable garden.

What Kind of Insect is Destroying my Plants?– Gardening in Orange County New York Blog

Vegetable Gardening

  • Cluster of Brussels sprouts on plant
    Brussels sprouts

    Keep tucking your indeterminate tomato vines inside the cages.

  • Sow cool season crops.

Virtual Workshop: Summer Planting for an Autumn Harvest – Cornell Cooperative Extension Tompkins County

Brown bullseye lesions on a yellowing tomato leaf
Early blight on tomato
  • Continue to remove weeds, as they compete with your garden plants for water, sunlight, and space.
  • Remove diseased or yellow leaves from tomato plant.

Got Blight? Which One? – NYS Integrated Pest Management


Go pollinators go!

Bumble bee on the petals of an echinacea bloom

Pest Watch: Squash Vine Borer

Drawing of the squash vine borer lifecycle showing a an adult red and black moth on a wilting squash plant with a white grub like worm burrowed in the stem and a white pupa buried in the groundBy Kimberly Marshall, Washingtonville Master Gardener Volunteer

This article appeared in the June 2021 Issue of Gardening in Orange County.

Nothing feels worse than seeing your squash wilt and die—especially after months of watching those leafy green beauties thrive in your garden.

Although the culprit may be many things, it often turns out to be the squash vine borer (Melittia cucurbitae)—an odious insect that nestles into the squash’s stem. Whilst making a lovely home for itself, it chokes off the plant’s nutrients and kills those crops you’ve so carefully chosen, planted, and reared.

To prevent the squash vine borer from damaging your harvest, here’s how to recognize and eliminate the pest.

Adult Squash VIne Borer - Moth with black and red body, black wings and red legs How to identify the squash vine borer and the damage that it does:

Look for

  •  black  moths with orangey-red markings on the head, legs, and abdomen
  • flat eggs resembling tiny brown ovals around the plant’s base
  • fat, white, wrinkly, worm-like larvae at the base of the stem
  • wilting leaves and rotting stems
  • holes at the base surrounded by “frass” (which looks like sawdust)
How to prevent squash vine borers from ruining your yield:
  • rotate your crops (as borer cocoons overwinter in the soil)
  • clear away squash plants immediately after harvesting, removing any and all plant debris
  • use row covers early in the growing season (must be removed to allow for pollination), or protect stem bases by wrapping them in aluminum foil
  • grow borer-resistant varieties, such as ‘Cocozella di Napoli’ or ‘Costata Romanesco’. Butternut squashes are also highly resistant.
  • plant extra—just in case.
The base of a squash plant with a large white larva perched above a large hole in the stem that is covered with frass, a sawdust-esque substanceHow to minimize damage if borers have found your garden anyway:
  • plant the pest’s preferred crop—Hubbard squash—as a ‘trap crop’
  • fill a yellow dish or bucket with water to attract moths. While this won’t totally divert them from the plants, it will provide an indication of their presence so you know to be extra vigilant about looking for eggs
  • if you notice frass, immediately cut lengthwise up the squash’s stem, remove all of the larvae, and then bury the cut in nutrient-rich soil to re-root.

In general, you should look for the squash vine borer early and often.  After all, it’s always better to be a safe gardener than a sorry one!

Pest Watch: Gypsy Moth

By Karen McCarthy, Newburgh Master Gardener Volunteer

This article appeared in the May 2021 Issue of Gardening in Orange County.

Trees with the upper canopy almost devoid of leaves due to gypsy mothYears ago, hiking with friends in Orange County in July, we noticed something was “off.”  It was too bright in the forest, and we heard a sound like rain.  Looking up, we realized we were in an area infested with gypsy moth caterpillars that had eaten most of the leaves, creating more light than shade. The sound we heard was falling caterpillar excrement.  A ruined hike!

The gypsy moth (Lymantria dispar) is native to Europe and was introducedto the United States in 1868 by a French scientist in Massachusetts hoping to breed a silk-spinning caterpillar that was resistant to disease.  Some of his moths escaped and are now found as far west as Minnesota and as far south as South Carolina.

The gypsy moth is one of the most important forest pests in our area as the larvae gorge themselves on shrub and tree leaves, leaving them bare and susceptible to disease.  They cause millions of dollars of damage every year.  They will feed on a wide variety of tree species, but prefer oaks, apples, birches, poplars, and willows.

Diagram of a Gypsy Moth Lifecycle - Eggs from September until March, Larva in April, May and June, Pupa in July, Adults in August and SeptemberLifecycle

Gypsy moths spend most of the year as eggs.  These egg masses can contain 500 to 1000 eggs and can be found on trees, firewood, outdoor household items, mobile homes, etc .  Depending on the weather, in our area gypsy moth eggs will hatch in late April or early May.

Once the larvae emerge, they begin to move upwards into the canopy of a tree.  Some larvae will stay in that tree to complete their lifecycle while others will spin a long silken thread and suspend themselves in the air waiting for a strong wind the carry to another tree; this is know as ‘ballooning.’  Once the ballooning larvae settle on a new host it will begin feeding.

Three gypsy moth caterpolars on a bunch of green leavesIn June or early July, gypsy moth caterpillars will stop feeding and pupate.  Two weeks later they will emerge as adults.  Male moths are brown with black markings while female  moths are white with black markings.  Female moths do NOT fly which means that ballooning larvae is one of the most important means of dispersal.  Of course humans also play a large role in the dispersal of this invasive species.  A great time to remind you: “Don’t Move Fire Wood!”
Dontmovefirewood.orgAdult gyps moths do not eat and are only around for about two weeks.  Males usually emerge first and wait for the females, who put out a pheromone to attract them.  After mating the females lay eggs and then die.

Management

Overwintering egg masses can be scraped off trees and destroyed before they hatch in late April and early May.  Young caterpillars,
less than one inch in length, can be killed using the biopesticde Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt). When using any pesticide read and follow all the instructions on the label!

A tree yellow band coverd with a sticky substance to trap the approaching gypsy moth caterpillars. with a Once caterpillars hatch they climb up the tree in search of food, so tree bands made of duct tape with the sticky side out or another nonporous material smeared with a stick substance can be used to trap them. For a severe infestation you may need to contact a local arborist. Find one at https://www.treesaregood.org/.  Repeated annual defoliation can result in the death of a tree.

‘Fun’ Facts

One two-inch gypsy moth caterpillar can consume up to one square foot of foliage every 24 hours.

In places where there are 250 or more egg masses per acre, larvae can defoliate the infested trees.

Ballooning gypsy moth caterpillars can travel up to mile.

Map of Gypsy Moth Management ZonesIn Ohio, where gypsy moths have not yet established themselves throughout the state, they deploy 12,000 gypsy moth traps across the state to monitor movement and evaluate, detect or delineate newly established colonies.

To National Gypsy Moth Slow the Spread Program is one of the world’s largest and most successful integrated pest management programs.

Resources

Gypsy Moth – NYS Department of Environmental Conservation

Gypsy Moth – University of Massachusetts Amherst

Gypsy Moth Forecast – National Phenology Network

National Gypsy Moth Slow the Spread Program

VIDEO: Gypsy Moth in New York 2021 – Cornell University