By Gerda Krogslund, Middletown Master Gardener Volunteer
This article appeared in the April 2021 Issue of Gardening in Orange County.
Newly hatched European pine sawfly larvae
In New York State, there are six species of sawflies that are common pests of pines. Sawfly larvae are caterpillar-like and usually feed in groups and strip one branch of needles after another. They prefer old needles, but turn to new needles when food is scarce. The European pine sawfly (Neodiprion sertifer) is one of the most destructive in New York State. It prefers red and Scotch pine, however it will also attack other pines in the area.
Life Cycle
Adult European pine sawfly
Sawfly adults resemble large houseflies but are actually closely related to wasps and sometimes referred to as ‘stingerless wasps.’ Females European pine sawflies have a serrated ovipositor, a tube-like organ used for egg laying, which enables them to saw little slits in the needles to lay their eggs leaving a row of brown scars on the needles. The eggs overwinter and may start to hatch as early as April or as late as mid-May. The larvae feed in colonies for several weeks. When the larvae are fully grown, they drop to the ground and pupate. Then in September adults emerge and mate. Then the females use their saw-like ovipositor to lay 6-8 eggs per pine needle.
Egg scars
Management
When European pine sawfly eggs hatch birds and rodents help decrease the number of larvae on your pines, but sometimes additional management is needed. You can remove larvae by hand or prune out infested branches. Put larvae and branches in a pail of soapy water.
If you chose to use an insecticide, keep in mind that as with most insects, sawflies are more susceptible to insecticides when they are small. There are horticultural oils and insecticidal soap labeled for control of sawflies. If you chose to use an insecticide make sure you read the entire label and follow all of the instructions including the use of personal protective equipment. The label is the law! And remember sawflies are NOT caterpillars so Bt, a go to organic pesticide for many home gardeners, will not work on sawflies.
Fun Facts
Sawfly larvae are often mistaken as caterpillars, but it is quite easy to tell the difference if you know what to look for.
Both caterpillars and sawflies have three sets of true legs (six legs in total). These are located near the head. After the true legs are a series of prolegs. Caterpillars have five or fewer pairs of abdominal prolegs while sawfly larvae have six or more pairs of abdominal prolegs.
European Pine Sawfly Larvae
Look at the picture above. You can see three pairs of true legs. (The first pair is a bit hard to see; it is between the head and the pair of true legs sticking straight up in the air.) After the true legs there is a gap and then seven pairs of abdominal prolegs. There is also a pair of anal prolegs at the very end of the body. Since seven is more than five, this must be a sawfly larvae.
Zebra caterpillar (Melanchra picta)
Look at the picture above. You can see three pairs of true legs right behind the head. Then there is a gap followed by four pairs of abdominal prolegs. There is also a pair of anal prolegs at the very end of the body. Since four is less than five, this must be a caterpillar.
This article appeared in the April 2021 Issue of Gardening in Orange County.
Crop rotation is the planned, successive cultivation of different crops in a specified order on the same land over time. Regardless of whether you have acres of farmland, grow vegetables in containers, or anything in between, crop rotation is an important concept to integrate into your growing strategies. It is a system of cycling a parcel of land through various crops in order to reduce the reliance on chemical fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides. It is vitally important to optimal soil health and can increase yields.
The history of crop rotation dates back thousands of years. The ancient Romans spread their farming practices throughout the Roman Empire. European farmers followed a Roman cropping system called “food, feed, and fallow.” Farmers divided their land into three sections. Each year they planted a food grain such as wheat on one section, feed for livestock such as barley or oats on second section and let the third section lie fallow. By following this schedule on a rotating basis, when each section lay fallow it recovered some of its nutrients and organic matter.
Today’s crop rotation systems are science based and range from simple to complex. The succession of crops to be grown is carefully designed to ensure soil nutrients are sustained, pest populations are controlled, weeds are suppressed, and soil health is built. Each crop uses different types and amounts of minerals from the soil. If the same crop is planted each year, over time the soil is depleted of the minerals essential for plant growth and health. In reverse, a different crop will sometimes return missing minerals to the soil as the plant dies and composts or is turned into the soil.
Benefits of Crop Rotation
Enhanced soil structure: Rotation preserves and improves soil structure. Grow crops with different root structures that grow to various depths. By rotating, the soil is not submitted to just shallow depth crops, but deep-rooted plants that will slowly deepen the topsoil, enhance water absorption and minimize runoff.
Reduced fertilizer needs: Nitrogen-fixing legumes in crop rotations or used as cover crops fix atmospheric nitrogen into the soil through root nodules. This nitrogen is then available for subsequent crops. Deep-rooted cover crops can draw up nutrients such as potassium and phosphorus from deep in the soil profile, making these nutrients available for subsequent shallow rooted crops. These and other strategies reduce the need for fertilizer and can reduce the production of greenhouse gases.
Reduced pesticide needs: Insects can over winter in your soil. They enter the leaves and vines of your plants ready to reawaken in the spring to find their favorite meal. When you utilize crop rotation, these insects are faced with a plant they don’t feed on.
Disease prevention: Crops that are from the same family tend to have similar disease and insect problems. Just like insects, plant diseases can over winter in plant leaves, roots and vines under your soil. Rotating crops helps to guard against these diseases returning the following year.
Weed control: Including cover crops into crop rotation systems provides greater competitions to the weeds for their basic needs such as nutrients, space and light. Cover crops ultimately crowd out the weeds, slowing down weed growth and proliferation for a reduced weed population in subsequent crops.
Erosion control: Improved soil structure and reduced exposure to water and wind. Cover crops are effective in reducing raindrop impact, reducing sediment detachment and transport, slowing surface runoff, and so reducing soil loss.
Improved soil biodiversity: Crop rotation changes crop residues and rooting patterns. Different crops benefit different species, and so a range of crops will lead to a more diverse and healthy soil microbial community.
How to Rotate Crops
Crop rotation plans range from simple to complex. Ideally crops should be rotated on a three or four year cycle in a planned sequence. Many rotation schemes involve keeping plants of the same family together throughout the rotation. Plant your solanaceous crops (i.e. tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, eggplant) in one area, cucurbits (i.e. cucumbers, melon, squash) in another, and brassicas (i.e. cabbage, broccoli, etc.) in another. The following year you keep the groups the same, but move their location in the garden.
As you explore crop rotation there are lots of tricks to learn. You can add cover crops to your rotation, which are grown between crops and can be used to protect soil, break-up hard pan, increase organic matter, add nitrogen and/or improve soil aggregation. Consider planting nitrogen-fixing legumes (i.e. peas, beans) before heavy feeding crops (i.e. corn). Potatoes yield best after corn, brassicas do well following onions. Some preceding crops (i.e. peas, oats, barley) increase the incidence of scab on potatoes. Beans are not greatly influenced by the preceding crop. Start by keeping a list or diagram of plant locations in this year’s garden and use it to help you plan how to incorporate crop rotation into your vegetable gardening strategy.
Learn more about the importance of crop rotation and see examples of three, four and five year crop rotation plans specifically developed for gardeners.
By Gerda Krogslund, Middletown Senior Master Gardener Volunteer
This article appeared in the April 2021 Issue of Gardening in Orange County.
It is spring and everyone wants to go outside and apply fertilizer to their plants, because that’s what you do in the spring. However, overfertilizering your plants is not only a waste of time and money, but it can also damage your plants and harm the environment. If you already incorporated lots of compost and other organic material into your soil every year, your soil is probably doing well. So before you add fertilizer or any other soil amendments to your garden, I encourage you to get a soil test.
Once you’ve gotten your soil tested, confirmed that you need fertilizer, and are ready to add some fertilizer, there are many things to consider, so lets take a look at a few of them.
Soil amendments are substances added to the soil to improve plant growth. Fertilizers the most common type of soil amendment and their main purpose is to supply nutrients to plants. Soil conditioners are soil amendments that are mixed into the topsoil to improve soil structure. Improving the structure of your soil will allow water and air movement in the soil and help with plant root growth. Compost is considered a soil conditioner as it improves the soil structure with the added benefits of slowly releasing nutrients to the plants and increasing bacterial and fungal activity. Other soil amendments include biostimulants and pH adjusters.
Fertilizers contain the primary macronutrients needed by plants: nitrogen(N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) . The three numbers on a bag of fertilizer represent the percentage (by weight) of NPK found in that bag. For example, the numbers on a 50-lb. bag of 10-6-4 fertilizer contains 10% N (5 lbs.), 6% P (3 lbs.), and 4% K (2 lbs.) The remaining 80% (40 lbs.) of the mixture is made up of secondary nutrients like calcium, magnesium and sulfur, trace elements, and fillers that make it easier to spread.
Each macronutrient is essential to healthy plant growth. Nitrogen (N) is used for to promote foliar growth. Phosphorus (P) supports the plant’s roots and reproductive system including flower and fruit development. Potassium (K) is important in root development and for overall plant health, including disease and stress resistance.
Knowing what each number represents can help you decide which fertilizer is best for your specific situation. If you are looking for a fertilizer to enhance flower production for your annual and perennial flowers, you would choose a fertilizer with more phosphorous like a 5-10-5. If you are looking to encourage foliar growth for leafy green vegetables, evergreens, or shrubs, you would look for a fertilizer with more nitrogen or a higher first number such as 10-6-4. Understanding the number will help you avoid applying the wrong kind of fertilizer. If you add too much nitrogen to a tomato plant, you might have a lush green leafy plant with very few flowers. The same holds true for root crops such as carrots; too much nitrogen will produce beautiful leaves, but smaller roots.
Fertilizer burn
Remember chemical fertilizers contain salts. Apply too much, and the plant cells will begin to dehydrate and collapse. Too much fertilizer will burn plant leaves and roots, and sometimes even kill the plant. This is called fertilizer burn. If you suspect fertilizer burn, use plenty of water to flush out excess fertilizer and prune out any burned leaves.
Whether you use solid or liquid fertilizer, you should always water your plants before application. This will help the roots absorb nutrients better and mitigate the risk of root burn.
A common type of solid fertilizer is granular fertilizer. Granular fertilizers can be broadcast by hand and then scratched into the top 4-6 inches of soil. For large areas like lawns, a mechanical spreader can be used. Moisture is needed to break down solid fertilizers and make nutrients available to plants. After application, carefully wash any fertilizer granules off of the foliage of your plants and water to release the nutrients.
Many solid fertilizers are quick release meaning that the nutrients are available immediately after application. There are also slow-release fertilizers that come in capsule forms and dissolve as they get wet. Since the capsules are made to break down at different rates, a single application can last over several months.
Water soluble fertilizers are sold as liquids or powders which you dissolve in watering before applying. These are great for fast-growing plants because the fertilizer is applied directly to the leaves and plants take up nutrients more efficiently through the leaves than through roots. Nutrients are absorbed quickly and rarely burn the plants. For large areas you can use hose-end sprayer fertilizers which come in containers that connect to the end of your hose and can be easily sprayed over your plants. A drawback to liquid fertilizers is that they must be applied more frequently as they can move quickly through the soil especially if it rains after an application.
Organic fertilizers are derived from plant and animal sources or a mined mineral such as rock phosphate. Liquid organic fertilizers include compost tea, fish emulsion, and seaweed. Dry organic fertilizers include manure, blood meal, bone meal, and cottonseed meal. Organic fertilizers usually contain low concentration of nutrients that are slowly released into the environment as they are broken down by soil microbes. Because of this, they are much less likely to cause fertilizer burn, and do not harm beneficial microbes in the soil.
Inorganic fertilizers or synthetic fertilizers are usually less expensive than organic ones and give quick results. However there are draw backs. They can cause fertilizer burn and if application rate or timing is off, there is a high chance of fertilizer runoff which can have detrimental effects on the environment. Many synthetic fertilizers also contain high concentrations of salts, which can cause fertilizer burn and can harm soil microbes.
Home gardeners have a tendency to overfertilize, that is why soil tests are so important. Remember if your beds are rich in organic material you may not need any fertilizer, that holds true for annuals, herbaceous perennials, and vegetables. New gardens low in organic matter may need to be fertilized in early spring, usually a 5-10-10 will suffice, but make sure to test your soil to see what your soil needs.
Herbs are a special case. Many herbs such as basil, thyme, rosemary, oregano, and lavender, grow best on sunny dry sites in sandy soil. Heavy applications of fertilizers or organic matter may lower the plant’s essential oil content and encourage root and stem rot diseases.
Healthy mature trees usually do not need fertilizer as they benefit from turf fertilization as well as the decomposition of grass clippings and fallen leaves. Shrubs that are surrounded by turf usually do not require additional fertilizer either. For those shrubs whose growth is slow, top-dress their beds with compost or apply a balanced fertilizer like 5-10-5 in early spring or in late fall. Don’t fertilize your perennials, trees and shrubs in late summer or early fall or you may encourage a flush of new growth that will not have time to harden off before the winter.
When it comes to lawns, the best time to apply fertilizer is in September. If you have a high use lawn it may need a second fertilizer application in May. Returning grass clipping to your lawn can reduce the need for nitrogen fertilizer by 25 – 50 %. Note that New York State Runoff Law restricts the use of fertilizer containing phosphorous unless you are establishing a new lawn or have the results of a soil test that indicate your lawn does not have enough phosphorous. Check out Cornell’s turf website for more information about how and when to feed your lawn.
Soil pH is a measure of the hydrogen ion activity in the soil. The scale of measuring acidity or alkalinity contains 14 divisions known as pH units. The pH value of 7 is neutral with values below 7 are acidic and values above 7 are basic or alkaline. With some exceptions most plants do best when the soil pH is in the 6.0 – 7.0 range. pH affects the availability of nutrients in the soil. As a result, plants in soil with very high or very low soil pH will show symptoms of nutrient deficiency.
Of course some plants prefer acidic or alkaline soil. Azaleas like an acidic soil and may develop yellow leaves if the pH is over 7.0. Blueberries do best in an acidic soil in the 4.5 – 5 range.
You can change the pH of the soil, but it is usually a slow process and may require repeat treatments. Adding lime to the soil will increase the pH and adding ammonium sulfate, iron sulfate or elemental sulfur will lower the pH. Liming is best done in the fall to allow time for it to change the pH. Instead of trying to change the pH of your soil, it is easier to choose plants that are adapted to the existing conditions. This is the principle of selecting the right plant for the right site. Changes to pH are short term and annual pH tests are recommended to determine what needs to be done to maintain desired soil pH.
Remember that the best way to improve plant growth is the regular incorporation of organic matter or compost in the soil for good soil structure. If you do decide to buy soil amendments, always read the label, apply the recommended amounts and use proper personal protective equipment like gloves and masks. Happy gardening!
By Cecille Jones, Monroe Master Gardener Volunteer
This article appeared in the March 2021 Issue of Gardening in Orange County.
The advice to plant the right tree in the right place couldn’t apply more to our tree of the month – the silver maple.
If you have space in your property and you want a fast-growing shade tree, the silver maple (Acer saccharinum) might be for you. The name Acer comes from the Celtic, ac, meaning hard, denoting the dense wood of the maple genus. The species name, saccharinum, means sugar because of the tree’s sap-producing quality (although this is not the best species for making our favored breakfast syrup.)
A species native to eastern North America, the silver maple features 3 – 6” leaves with 5 lobes separated by notably deep, narrow sinuses. Its common name was derived from the fact that its leaves are dark green on top but silvery-white on the underside. Most people delight in seeing the silver underbellies of its leaves shimmer in the sun at the slightest puff of wind during spring and summer.
In the fall, the leaves turn pale yellow. Come springtime, they produce red, yellow and silver clusters of small flowers. At over 3” long, the winged seeds of silver maples are the largest of all native maples.
These trees have wildlife value. Think of beavers finding them delicious, squirrels feasting on their buds, and ducks and other birds using them as nesting sites.
The silver maple holds the distinction of being the twentieth most commonly planted shade tree in American gardens. It grows fast, provides shade quickly, and can adapt to a wide variety of soil conditions.
Silver maples can grow anywhere in Zones 3 to 7. It can survive seasonal inundation and poor soil. As a wetland tree (it’s also called swamp maple), it prefers deep, moist acidic soil. Once established however, it can tolerate drought.
Full sun to partial shade are best for this tree. It prefers a minimum of four hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight each day. Silver maples can reach between 50’ to 80’ in height and spread from 35’ to 50’ at maturity. Its growth rate could be as much as two feet annually.
Silver maples are not orderly trees with symmetrical form. Their trunks can become massive, and they have a wide spreading but shallow root system. Don’t expect plants to thrive beneath them.
More importantly, remember to plant this tree well away from your house, foundation, sidewalk and sewer lines where its dense roots can wreak havoc. Also, beware that silver maples have a reputation for having branches that break easily during ice and wind storms.
Just like other trees, silver maples have their good and bad points. That’s why planting this native tree in the right place is key to your success.
By Cecille Jones, Monroe Master Gardener Volunteer
This article appeared in the March 2021 Issue of Gardening in Orange County.
When you hear the name tree-of-heaven (Ailanthusaltissima), remember this: There is nothing heavenly about this invasive plant. It is so named only because it can grow to such heights that it is as if it’s reaching for the sky.
This plant is aggressive and does not have natural predators to keep it in check. When native plant and animal species are hindered, the balance and biodiversity of the native ecosystem is upset and could potentially lead to extinctions.
Also called Chinese sumac, the tree of heaven is attractive to pollinators, further ensuring its spread. It releases a toxic chemical into the soil that harms other plants, rodents and microbes. What’s more, the tree-of-heaven is said to advance the spread of the spotted lanternfly, an invasive insect that feeds on and damages many species of native and fruit-bearing trees. The lanternfly prefers to lay its eggs on the tree-of-heaven, so keeping this tree in check could limit the lanternfly’s advance.
Identification
Proper identification of the tree-of-heaven is important because it can be confused with native plants such as the staghorn sumac, black walnut and butternut, to name a few.
One quick way to tell the difference: When you crush the foliage or break a twig, the tree-of-heaven will emit a foul odor.
Like its native look-alikes, the leaves of the tree-of-heaven are pinnately compound. They have a central stem (called rachis) in which leaflets are attached directly opposite each other. One leaf can be as long as 4 feet with 10 to 40 lance-shaped leaflets with smooth margins, except at the base where there are one of two protruding bumps called grandular teeth. In contrast, the leaves of the native plants are much shorter and have fewer leaflets with serrated (teeth-like) margins.
Management
Tree-of-Heaven is a formidable advisory as it spreads using both seeds and root sprouts. Cutting down of tree-of-heaven is ineffective and may exacerbate the problem as the remaining roots will then send up new sprouts. Watch this great video to learn how to effectively remove tree-of-heaven from your property.
Pesticide regulations vary state to state. If unsure whether or not you can use a certain pesticide in your state, contact your local Cooperative Extension Office. When using herbicides make sure to carefully read the entire label before application and follow all of the instructions including wearing proper personal protective equipment (PPE). The label is the law!
This article appeared in the March 2021 Issue of Gardening in Orange County.
Are your tired of mowing and weeding your lawn? Are you suffering from suburban guilt because your yard isn’t as lush a fairway as your neighbor’s? It’s time to let go of that nagging sense of failure.
This has nothing to do with laziness and everything to do with loving – and taking care of – yourself and the environment. With a little knowledge and common sense, you can have a beautiful yard without applying harmful and expensive herbicides and pesticides that could seep into our ground water, without using gas- or electric-powered lawn mowers that pollute our atmosphere, and without spending precious weekend hours toiling under the sun when you could be relaxing and enjoying your surroundings.
Forget the wide variety of grasses readily available at big box stores. Think perennial evergreen groundcovers instead. These plants serve more useful purposes than you can count.
If you have a large plot of grass, don’t fret. Start with a problem patch that’s about 10 ft X 12 ft and keep expanding your grid over the years. Beautiful gardens don’t grow overnight. Besides, what would you rather have? A garden you don’t enjoy – and maybe even resent – because you’re too busy mowing, weeding and watering or a practically maintenance-free yard that’s rich in color, form, and texture?
Pachysandra, English ivy and perwinkle
But wait. Don’t rush off and default to planting pachysandra, English ivy or myrtle/periwinkle to replace your grass. Let’s think this through.
Did you know that this trio of groundcovers is old hat – and worse, invasive? They out-compete many plants, threaten biodiversity and are destructive to the ecosystem. Plus, these plants blanket almost every other yard in suburban communities so much so that they deserve to be called the vinyl siding of groundcover plants. (If I knew the name of the clever mind that coined this phrase, I’d give full attribution.) Wouldn’t you rather have gorgeous evergreen groundcovers that aren’t invasive, aren’t common and are almost completely self-sustaining?
There are other reasons why perennial groundcovers are a good choice for your landscape.
First, unlike lawns, they don’t have to be mowed. This fact alone is a strong selling point.
Second, many of them won’t die during the cold winter months. That means they won’t leave the ground exposed and open to weed seeds germinating. When other plants are completely dormant during the cold months, it’s always refreshing and hopeful to see the green foliage of perennial groundcovers.
Third, many evergreen groundcovers have fibrous roots that help limit soil erosion.
Fourth, they act as living mulch because they cover the soil and are exceptional in out-competing many weeds.
Finally, there are enough hard-working and beautiful varieties to choose from that unlike a monotonous expanse of sod, evergreen perennial groundcovers add texture, color, and interest to your yard.
An added bonus is that some of these groundcovers produce flowers that are delightful to humans and beneficial to many species of pollinators.
Depending on your needs, there are three main categories of perennial evergreen groundcovers: flowering, sun-loving and shade-loving.
Flowering Evergreen Groundcovers
Lilyturf(Liriope muscari): This tough, relatively fast-growing plant has a grass-like appearance, grows from 6 – 12” tall and spreads 12 – 18” wide. It is hardy down to -30 degrees F and prefers partial or full shade, but will grow in a sunny location. It’s great for sloped sides of the garden or areas under large trees with extensive root systems. Varieties with solid green or variegated leaves produce violet-blue flower spires in the spring. As long as it’s planted in moist, well-drained soil, it will endure heat, drought and salt spray.
Candytuft(Iberis sempervirens): If you want a ground-hugging flowering perennial as pathway edging where there’s full sun or partial shade, look for candytuft. Best planted in the early fall, candytuft will brighten your garden in April and May with masses of white flowers against dark green foliage. It’s great for drawing bees and butterflies to your landscape while keeping deer and rabbits away. Not everyone likes its floral scent, but it’s a good groundcover suitable in Zones 4 to 8. These plants crave well-drained soil.
Creeping phlox(Phlox subulata): Considered one of the most colorful of groundcovers, these plants bloom profusely with magenta, purple-blue or white flowers in mid to late spring. They have dark green, needle-like foliage which are covered when in bloom for 3 – 4 weeks. This eastern North America native is deer resistant, trouble-free and extremely tolerant of the cold down to -40°F. You’ll love the hummingbirds and butterflies it draws to your yard. It thrives in full sun but tolerates dappled shade. It grows well in sandy or gravely soils and is drought tolerant once established. This plant is commonly used in rock gardens and sloped areas.
Here are other flowering groundcovers to consider. Thick, succulent, drought- and deer-resistant, sedums(Sedum spp.) are among the best-known evergreen groundcovers. Look for Dragon’s Blood, Blue Spruce and Lime Twister because of their interesting foliage and flower colors. If you need a plant with height, there’s wall germander(Teucrium chamaedrys), a shrubby perennial that’s hardy, drought-tolerant, pollinator-friendly and deer resistant. On the other end of the spectrum, there’s flowering thyme(Thymus spp.) which grows only between 1 – 3” tall depending on the variety. If you want this plant to serve a dual purpose, you can choose the culinary variety of fragrant thyme to flavor your dishes.
Sun-loving Evergreen Groundcovers
Bugleweed(Ajuga reptans): From green-leaved to bronze, purple or even variegated, there are literally dozens of varieties of bugleweed. There are also cultivars with crinkled leaves. With their spikes of purple-blue flowers, this groundcover is showy and colorful even when it’s not in bloom. Loved by bees when in flower, these hardy creepers survive -40°F weather. Of course, no mowing is required for this stalwart perennial that can spread to form a satisfyingly thick mat.
Mini mondo grass(Ophipogon japonicus ‘Nana’): If you can’t quite forego the look of turf and patience is not one of your virtues, try this petite evergreen groundcover that’s the smallest of the small. It’s only hardy down to -10°F, but the green tufts of mini mondo could look spectacular in any garden. It grows to only 4” tall and creates quick cover under full sun. It’s also recommended for use between stepping stones and around the base of trees. When used in this way, the mini mondo grass is a more lasting, less expensive alternative to gravel, shredded bark or other mulches. Just know that this is a clumping evergreen, meaning it won’t form a continuous, undifferentiated carpet of leaves like the bugleweed.
Hens and Chicks(Sempervivum tectorum): We don’t normally think of succulents as being cold hardy, but most hens and chicks are hardy down to -30°F. If you hate watering plants, you’ll appreciate these drought-tolerant perennials. They’re not normally grown for their flowers, but they do occasionally produce spires of colorful blooms in summer. There are many cultivars that come in a wide variety of colors and forms. If you want color, lean toward the eye-catching red or blue hens and chicks. If you want form, there are cobweb- and green wheel-shaped hens and chicks. None grows taller than 8 – 10” in height. You can readily spread them by digging up the offsets and planting them elsewhere in your garden.
Other sun-loving evergreen groundcovers include the rock cotoneaster(Cotoneaster horizontalis) which have soft sprays of green leaves. All cultivars of this plant reach 2 – 3’ in height, so if you have a sloped area, consider it covered. Just know that If the weather dips below -20°F, this plant may only be semi-evergreen. For a shorter groundcover that’s only about 6 -12” tall, you can plant bearberry(Arctostaphylos uva-rusi). It has dark, glossy green leaves. Fully hardy down to -40°F, this plant spreads out its low, arching branches and attracts birds and other wild creatures when it produces dark, red cherries.
Evergreen Groundcovers for Shade
Few gardens are without shady areas, but that doesn’t mean your only options are gravel or mulch. There are enough perennial evergreen plants that thrive in full to part shade to get you covered.
Allegheny spurge(Pachysandra procumbens): I know what you’re thinking. Earlier I cautioned you against the pachysandra. But even though the Allegheny spurge is in the genus Pachysandra, it is far different from the traditional one that blankets many suburban yards. This Allegheny spurge is a native of the U.S. It thrives in heavy to partial shade. In fact, if you plant it in a sunny location, you’ll bleach its dense carpet of matte blue-green leaves and you’ll miss the fragrant white and frothy blooms. Being a native plant, it’s drought tolerant. It’s also hardy down to -20°F. Plant your starters 6 – 12” apart, then enjoy watching this herbaceous perennial spread. Just plan to trim dead leaves in the spring to make way for new growth.
European ginger(Asarum europaeum): Yes, you can have thick, glossy, rounded heart-shaped leaves in the shadiest spot in your garden. Thanks to the European ginger, even the shadiest of spots can feature luscious, low-growing foliage. Their blooms are nothing to brag about, but European ginger has several other attributes. It’s shade- and drought-tolerant. It’s also deer resistant. European ginger reaches 6” tall and is hardy down to -30°F.
Christmas fern(Polystichum acrostichoides): Christmas fern got its name because it stays green through the holiday season. Like most ferns, this one is easy to establish and grow, provided you plant it in the right conditions. Christmas ferns require full or part shade and cool, moist, well-drained soil. It will not tolerate clay soils. When you plant Christmas fern in acidic, humus-rich soil, this robust fern will reward you with glossy-green fronds that grow up to 24” tall. Super healthy ones can grow as high as 36”. Silvery fiddleheads emerge in early spring. In the right place, Christmas ferns are a good border or accent plant that grow in clusters, rather creep in a continuous carpet. They also make a visual impact when planted in a thick mass. If you can envision evergreen fronds dusted with white snow, you’ll be hard pressed to write off this perennial evergreen.
When it comes to gardening, it pays to keep an open mind and think beyond the norm. Green lawns aren’t the most environmentally friendly way to beautify your property. Gardens don’t have to adhere to rigid standards where sod plays the dominant role while perennials and annuals are supporting cast members. By using a variety of perennial evergreen groundcovers, you can achieve a beautiful landscape that you and your family can enjoy for years.
There are over 50,000 farmers in New York State. They run over 30,000 farms on over six million acres of land. They produce vegetables, fruit, meat, eggs, milk and so much more. Here in Orange County there are about 1,000 farmers running 600 farms on over 80,000 acres of land. Not from Orange County, check out how many farmers you have in your county.
In celebration of New York agriculture, volunteers throughout the state will read a book with an agricultural theme to elementary students this week. This year’s book is Chuck’s Ice Cream Wish: Tales of the Dairy Godmother, written by Viola Butler, art by Ward Jenkins.
Join the Celebration!
Watch NYS Commissioner of the Department of Agriculture & Markets Richard Ball or Dairy Farmer Jessica Ziehm and her daughter Pheobe read this year’s book.
This article appeared in the March 2021 Issue of Gardening in Orange County.
Rose milkweed (Asclepias incarnata) with monarch
Many native seeds require 60, 90 or 120 days of cold, moist conditions (stratification) to break dormancy and germinate. These seeds should be planted in the fall and will germinate when the conditions are right for them. If you didn’t plant native seeds last fall, do not be discouraged, there are a number of native species that only require 30 days of cold, moist stratification. If you plant these seeds by mid-March they will still germinate. In addition, there are native seeds that do not require any special conditioning at all to germinate.
Outdoor / Garden planting: Outdoor planting is the easiest, let Mother Nature do the work!
1) Whether you are planting seed in the ground in March or later, be sure to have an area that is prepared and weed free, weeds will out-compete your native seedlings. Planting seeds in pots or trays and leaving them in a protected area outside also works very well.
2) Plant native seeds only as deep as the width of the seed. Very tiny seeds should be sown on the soil surface with only a light dusting of soil over them. Most of the tiny seeds require exposure to sunlight to germinate.
3) Cover the ground or pots you planted with a piece of window screen or an old cotton sheet. Covering helps to keep the seeds moist, prevents them from being blown away by the wind and protects them from being eaten by birds. Remove the cover once you see the seeds have germinated.
4) Do not let seeds and seedlings dry out. You will need to water if the weather is dry.
5) Always label where your seeds are planted – it is amazing how fast you can forget.
Indoor Cold / Moist stratification:
Wild bergamot (Monarda fistulosa) with hummingbird moth
1) Another way to provide 30 days of cold/moist stratification is to sprinkle the seeds on a damp paper towel or coffee filter, fold in half and seal them in a plastic bag. Place bag in the refrigerator for 30 days. If seeds germinate before the 30 days, remove them from the paper towel and carefully plant in pots.
2) You could also place the seeds in pots or trays of moist potting mix, seal them in a plastic bag and refrigerate. After 30 days, remove pots from their bag and place outside in a protected area.
Check out these links that have helpful directions on native seed germination. They also sell native seeds and provide plant descriptions. Have fun!
When European pine sawfly eggs hatch birds and rodents help decrease the number of larvae on your pines, but sometimes additional management is needed. You can remove larvae by hand or prune out infested branches. Put larvae and branches in a pail of soapy water.
