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Book Reviews

Photo: Person with long brown hair, wearing comfy socks and sweat pants, sitting on the floor in front of a blazing fire place reading a book as a black and white cat rests its head on their legWinter has arrived!  While there isn’t much to be doing outside in our gardens, the winter is a great opportunity to spend time learning more about gardening.  So grab one of these books recommended by our Master Gardener Volunteers, sit by the fire, and spend time cultivating your mind this winter.


Book List

Freedom’s Gardener: James F. Brown, Horticulture, and the Hudson Valley in Antebellum America by Myra Beth Young Armstead

Garden Alchemy: 80 Recipes and Concoctions for Organic Fertilizers, Plant Elixirs, Potting Mixes, Pest Deterrents, and More by Stephanie Rose

Good Garden Bugs by Mary M. Gardiner, Ph. D.

The Know Maintenance Perennial Garden by Roy Diblik

Natural Companions: The Garden Lover’s Guide to Plant Combinations by Ken Druse

Square Foot Gardening with Kids by Mel Bartholomew

The Week-by-Week Vegetable Gardner’s Handbook by Ron and Jennifer Kujawski

The Weekend Homesteader: A Twelve Month Guide to Self-Sufficiency by Anna Hess

The Well-Gardened Mind: The Restorative Power of Nature by Sue Stuart-Smith

A Year at Brandywine Cottage by David L. Culp

Your Wellbeing Garden: How to Make Your Garden Good for You – Science, Design, Function by D.K. Publishing


Book Cover: Freedom's Gardener - Drawing of four-petaled white violetFreedom’s Gardener: James F. Brown, Horticulture, and the Hudson Valley in Antebellum America

by Myra Beth Young Armstead

Reviewed by Madelene Knaggs, New Windsor Master Gardener Volunteer

Freedom’s Gardener
is impeccably researched and full of detail. It is the kind of book that grabs the attention of readers interested in gardening, local history, Black history, and the concept of freedom. Armstead, a professor of history at Bard College, extracts small details from the diary of James F. Brown to compose a story illustrating the concept of freedom as it developed in the United States in the decades following the Revolutionary War.

James F. Brown was born a slave in 1793 and died a free man in 1868. He escaped slavery in Maryland to the Hudson Valley of New York State, where he was employed as a gardener by the wealthy Verplanck family in Beacon, NY (on what is presently the Mount Gulian Historic Site).

Brown kept a detailed diary over 39 years, with entries covering weather, gardening, and steamboat schedules, as well as domestic matters. James began his career with the Verplancks as a waiter and a laborer, but eventually assumed the duties as the Verplanck Estate’s master gardener. He managed and supervised garden, farm, and nursery workers. He was also responsible for making major purchases for the Verplanck house and garden. He frequently interacted in Newburgh with Andrew Jackson Downing, the famed lAmerican landscape designer and editor of The Horticulturist magazine (1846–1852). Brown attended the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society Show in Philadelphia as well as the New York Horticultural Society Exhibition.

This book has been recommended by the Library Journal to historians of antebellum America and the social aspects of horticulture, as well as those interested in historical diaries. Armstead’s well-researched study of Brown’s work greatly expands our understanding of the Hudson Valley and the people and plants that have shaped it.

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Book Cover: Garden Alchemy - Photo containing an assortment of flowers and herbsGarden Alchemy: 80 Recipes and Concoctions for Organic Fertilizers, Plant Elixirs, Potting Mixes, Pest Deterrents, and More

by Stephanie Rose

Reviewed by Mary Presutti, New Windsor Master Gardener Volunteer

As a newly minted Master Gardener Volunteer, I frequently turn to my class notes for advice in the garden. Now I have another, more portable source. In this one handy, slim volume, Canadian Master Gardener Stephanie Rose has compiled a nifty hands-on guide with useful recipes to get everyone’s garden in top shape.

The book is loaded with step-by-step instructions beginning with homemade methods to test your soil, then on to recipes for soil amendment, custom mulch, compost boosters, fertilizers, garden teas, potting soils, and even a method to produce your own worm castings. The ingredients are common items available in your home.

Even wildlife has not been left out. There are techniques for encouraging as well as discouraging nature in the garden. Some of my plants go outdoors in the summer months. They invariably bring fungus gnats back indoors in the fall. She has a fix to keep them away. She also includes a bottle trap for flies, wasps, and stinkbugs—all with their own individual bait recipes.

As a plus, Ms. Rose has included some fun activities to keep gardeners occupied while their plants are sleeping this winter season. You can make seed bombs, suet holders, butterfly puddlers, and more.

Garden Alchemy is chock full of beautiful, interesting photographs and diagrams that complement the easy to understand, straight to the point text. I recommend it for all gardeners.

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Book Cover: Good Garden Bugs - Photo of a black and yellow stripped hover fly resting in the center of a bright yellow flowerGood Garden Bugs

by Mary M. Gardiner, Ph.D.

Review by Donna Beyer, New Windsor Master Gardener Volunteer

All gardeners must deal with bugs — good bugs, bad bugs — but some of us aren’t sure which is which. Good Garden Bugs is directed to the home gardener who might not know the difference. As gardeners, we invest time and effort into making our gardens the most beautiful and productive they can be, yet bugs can present challenges to our efforts. Most of us understand the need for good bugs, but sometimes find it difficult to live in harmony with them.

The book begins by providing information on the classification, anatomy, and the life cycle of garden bugs. The information helps the gardener understand how each stage of a bug’s development has different enemies and threats, and is presented in a way that non-academics can understand. How bugs overwinter and mature provides the gardener with valuable insight into promoting good garden bugs.

The chapter that discusses controls we use to regulate bug populations can help gardeners understand how their actions affect them. This section also stresses the need for native plants to promote healthy habitats that support good bug populations.

The chapters that follow are the core of the book. Each subsequent chapter is dedicated to an order of bug that describes the unique attributes and common examples of bugs that fall into that order. The book also includes large color photos with descriptions of each.

Over half the chapters are dedicated to wasps, beetles, and spiders. These bugs are the most plentiful and can be difficult to identify. These orders can do serious damage to plants and humans alike, so being able to identify these “good” bugs is especially important. Gardeners want to promote good bugs that fall into these orders, but also want to protect themselves and their gardens.

Currently, in the age of the internet, having a resource you can carry to the garden that will assist with pest identification is invaluable. This book is slim but does not skimp on content and is a valuable addition to a home gardener’s library.

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Book Cover: The Know Maintenance Perennial Garden - Photo of perennial garden with purple flowers in bloomThe Know Maintenance Perennial Garden

by Roy Diblik

Reviewed by Cecille Jones, Monroe Master Gardener Volunteer

If the title of this book doesn’t hook you, perhaps the words on the cover will. In red ink, it loudly declares knowing your plants means less work. Or perhaps you’ve heard of Roy Diblik, the renowned plantsman behind the Lurie Garden at Millennium Park in Chicago.

Diblik’s approach to gardening stresses harmony with how plants grow and interact with each other. He advocates knowing your plants so you can plant them in self-sustaining communities. By doing so, you will spend less time maintaining them and more time enjoying them.

The author focuses on perennials because he believes they are the foundation of durable, diverse and beautiful gardens. According to Diblik, once you’re familiar with perennials, then you will recognize how and when to add annuals, vegetables, herbs, shrubs and trees.

Diblik believes that traditional gardening has become so culturally defined over the last 50 years that it is now a source of frustration and defeat for most gardeners.

In the first four chapters, he covers the basics – from understanding plant growth to soil, light, site preparation, and more. Chapter 5 covers 74 key perennials selected for their dependability, suitability to the northern half of the U.S., adaptability to soil & seasonal changes, and durability.

The true treasure is saved for Chapter 6 and beyond, where Diblik provides more than 60 garden plans, each designed to cover a 10 – 14’ rectangle, categorized by plans for growing in sun or shade, and complete with notes on care and maintenance. Assuming you are diligent about care and maintenance, Diblik claims that each plan should take about 3 to 4 hours of work per week.

Diblik’s approach will put you on a path to a style of gardening that stresses harmony, simplicity and enjoyment.

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Book Cover: Natural Companions - Photo of several colorful flower blossoms and colorful leaves arranged on a black backgroundNatural Companions: The Garden Lover’s Guide to Plant Combinations

by Ken Druse

Reviewed by Gerda Krogslund, Middletown Senior Master Gardener Volunteer

For this book, author Ken Druse worked in conjunction with artist Ellen Hoverkamp who provided the beautiful botanical photographs throughout. Each chapter explores plants in a different light looking at season, family, form, function, color, spirit of place, or theme.

Take a journey through the seasons starting with signs of spring and continuing through the year concluding with winter and new awakenings. Learn about different plant families and delve into the numerous varieties found in each. Form follows function – examine the many different shapes, textures, structures and growth habit of flowers and other plants. Be inspired by pictures of flowers with both similar colors and exciting color combinations. Consider the spirit of place and think about what you can plant in woodlands, meadows, wetlands, rain gardens, and rock gardens. Explore themed gardens grown for fragrance, roses, pollinators, birds, cutting, edible plants, herbs, medicinal plants, and toxic plants.

This is not a “how-to” manual but a book that suggests possible plant combinations for your consideration. It gives you lots of ideas in which you can take your reliable basic plants and add others to make your garden even more spectacular. Ken Druse knows that gardening is very personable and suggests that while you read through the book, you make lists of combinations that appeal to you.

A garden is never really complete but more a work in progress as we continually experiment with new plants and new plant arrangements. I’ve spent hours going through this book and I know I’ll come back again and again.

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Book Cover: Square Foot Gardening with Kids - Small boy picking tomatoesSquare Foot Gardening with Kids

by Mel Bartholomew

Reviewed by Brooke Moore, New Windsor Master Gardener Volunteer

Getting children interested in growing food and learning more about the natural world is an admirable goal. And one that does not have to be boring or pedantic.

This lovely book by the master of Square Foot Gardening, provides kids from toddlers to teens with all the tools they need to build, manage, grow and harvest a vegetable garden. It encourages starting small and building more as confidence and experience lead one to wanting a larger planting area.

With a format that provides age-appropriate tasks and goals at every step, this book also works for the whole family. I loved that there are clues to help parents not be overly involved but rather encourage the children to figure out how to do things themselves. It covers building raised beds, making soil mixes, how to make a grid system, water issues, protecting plants from predators, best growing practices, and much more.

Teachers and classroom projects are also a part of the book, and these can be used by anyone. Math, science, art, and history are all related to gardening, and the book provides simple and interesting activities to bring these skills into the garden and to use the garden to develop entirely new ones. Measuring, weighing, keeping a planting journal are all well described and encouraged. There are good photos and illustrations for each step and lots of handy tips and “how to” suggestions.

This is a book with “kids” in the title, but it truly is a book for anyone and everyone interested in exploring how to use this simple system to have a successful garden harvest.

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Book Cover: The Week-by-Week Vegetable Gardener's HandbookThe Week-by-Week Vegetable Gardner’s Handbook

by Ron and Jennifer Kujawski

Reviewed by Kimberly Marshall, Washingtonville Master Gardener Volunteer

If there were only one vegetable gardening book I could use throughout the gardening year, it would be The Week-by-Week Vegetable Gardener’s Handbook by Ron and Jennifer Kujawski. This dynamic father-and-daughter gardening duo have made an indispensable resource that should grace the bookshelves of vegetable gardeners everywhere.

It provides week-by-week vegetable gardening how-to’s that coincide with each planting season. A chart at the beginning of the book helps you identify where you are in your own area’s growing season, using your first and last frost dates as a guide. For example, if your last frost date is mid-May, as it is for many of us here in Orange County, you enter that date in the calendar’s “Week 1,” which starts your weekly to-do’s (first week, two weeks out, three weeks out, etc.).

Based on these dates, the book explains which week to start seeds indoors, plant cover crops, look for pests, harvest your crops, and fertilize each and every vegetable you can think of, with plenty of gardening tips and tricks along the way. There are even steps for gardening in the winter, with instructions for planning gardens and ordering seeds, so you can work on or think about your garden all year long.

The book also includes space for journaling your thoughts and experiences. There is ample room for notes in each section to remind yourself of what you planted and any issues you might have experienced, helping you to avoid making the same mistakes the following year.

If you’re looking for a step-by-step vegetable gardening book that tells you exactly what to do and when to do it, give this one a try—especially if you find the idea of vegetable gardening a bit overwhelming, like I do. It breaks everything down into easy steps, making even the scariest parts of gardening seem effortless while helping you realize what’s truly possible for your garden along the way.

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Book Cover: The Weekend Homesteader - Grid of gardening photos: pea shoots, rubber boots, chicken, peppers, etc.The Weekend Homesteader: A Twelve Month Guide to Self-Sufficiency

by Anna Hess

Reviewed by Robin Portelli, Cornwall Master Gardener Volunteer

As I was perusing through gardening books on the Libby App from my local library, the book title, The Weekend Homesteader: A Twelve-Month Guide to Self Sufficiency by Anna Hess caught my attention. I was envisioning a book with information that would inspire me to become a self-sufficient gardener without feeling overwhelmed or pressured that I needed to go off the grid or never buy grocery produce again. I was not disappointed.

In her introduction, Anna Hess immediately connects with the novice homesteader. She understands that the dream of full-time homesteading can be daunting for most people. “Weekend Homesteader is full of short projects that you can use to dip your toes into the vast ocean of homesteading without becoming overwhelmed,” she writes. So, I began to read.

The book is divided by months beginning in the month of April or October if you live down under. Each month introduces you to topics that are important factors in growing a successful garden and maintaining a small homestead. Some homesteading basics covered that are more familiar to most of us include budgeting skills and record keeping (ugh!), healthy soil, garden rotation, and how to build a chicken coop. Anna Hess also touches upon less well-known details and tips such as how to find space to plant if you live in the city, how to stay warm without electricity for longer periods of time, and how to extend the gardening season by making your own garden hoops. Recipes, canning, cooking, and details of food/seed storing options are among some of the other multitude of topics.

Overall, I would give this book 4.5/5 stars.

Pros: It was well organized and gave many tips that only an experienced homesteader would know. It could help a novice homesteader avoid rookie mistakes. This book was published in 2012, but the topics and information are still very practical and relevant.

Cons: It covers the basics so an already experienced homesteader may not reap much benefit by reading it. Also, it is missing a chapter specific to urban gardening topics.

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Book Cover: The Well-Gardener Mind - Drawing of a head in which the outline of the face is a green stem and the head has branches coverd with green leavesThe Well-Gardened Mind: The Restorative Power of Nature

by Sue Stuart-Smith

Reviewed by Sharon Lunden, Goshen Master Gardener Volunteer

In The Well-Gardened Mind, Stuart-Smith, a British psychiatrist and psychotherapist, delves into the therapeutic aspects of immersing yourself in a garden. This is not a how-to garden book but instead outlines the well-researched benefits to the human body, mind, and soul to be found in the natural world around us.

Our brain cells are like branching trees, requiring pruning, weeding, and room to grow. Experience and pain can be “composted” into something beneficial. Gardens reflect our lives, periods of yield and beauty, loss and rest. Our minds as gardens seek light, cultivation, seeding, nourishment, watering, and replenishment. Souls and bodies begin to heal and thrive in the peace, safety, and beauty of the confines of a flower or vegetable garden. We need the earth as much as the earth needs us to care for and cherish it, a full circle. By learning to care for a garden, we better learn to care for ourselves and others.

This is a fascinating book which I recommend to you, as it can prove helpful and comforting in the midst of the stress of these difficult times.

If we put energy into cultivating the earth, we are given something back. There is magic in it and there is hard work in it, but the fruits and flowers of the earth are a form of goodness that is real; they are worth believing in and are not out of reach. When we sow a seed, we plant a narrative of future possibility. It is an action of hope. Not all the seeds we sow will germinate, but there is a sense of security that comes from knowing you have seeds in the ground. (pp. 65–66)

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Book Cover: A Year at Brandywine Cottage - Photos: Harvested beets, radishes, and peas / A lush garden with a white cottage in in the backgroundA Year at Brandywine Cottage

by David L. Culp

Reviewed by Madelene Knaggs, New Windsor Master Gardener Volunteer

A Year at Brandywine Cottage leads us on a journey through an exquisite garden that represents a lifetime of hard work, passion, successes and disappointments, experience and knowledge. Engaging prose and beautiful photography take the armchair gardener on a virtual tour through each season as the author informs us of the Latin genus and species and the botanical and historical facts about each plant.

Author and gardener David Culp states, “By looking closely at my garden over a period of time, and allowing it to speak to me, I find that the garden at Brandywine Cottage wants six seasons. As you will see, this book chronicles what happens in my garden over the course of those seasons.”

Culp demonstrates his deep knowledge of plants season by season with such tips and techniques for a successful layered garden as adding pots of tropicals (he has 400 pots) into the beds to boost a tired August garden, or clipping distracting dead leaves off hellebores before they bloom. He also weaves in family and local recipes using ingredients from his own beautiful vegetable garden.

Beginning in February (in the chapter “Early Spring”), he shows us the sleepy phase in the garden when most people are oblivious to any plant life. He proves that there is much to behold—the emerging bulbs of crocus, dwarf iris, glory-of-the-snow, winter aconite, witch hazels, and the author’s large collection of snowdrops. As the season progresses into March, daffodils and hellebores take center stage. He continues to show the progression and overlapping from season to season and from outdoors to inside the home.

This book will inspire readers with ideas for their own gardens, and will encourage plans in anticipation of the upcoming season.

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Book Cover: Your Wellbeing Garden - Drawing of garden bench with trees on both sides and a potted flower sitting on itYour Wellbeing Garden: How to Make Your Garden Good for You – Science, Design, Function

by D.K. Publishing

Review by Patricia Henighan, Walden Master Gardener Volunteer

If you have been gardening for a while, you probably don’t need to be convinced that your garden is good for you. Nevertheless, this delightfully designed and easy to digest book uses scientific research drawn together by a team of scientists from the Royal Horticultural Society to present the whys and hows of creating an outdoor space that nourishes both the mind and the body, and is good for the planet. Each section encapsulates the latest research on topics such as how to fight air pollution, reduce noise pollution, help pollinators, address climate change, and provide fodder for your brain.

The authors use diagrams and illustrations to explain concepts such as how different types of leaves trap air pollutants and why vegetation is a better at reducing noise pollution than a fence or a wall. They explore topics such as Ogren Plant Allergy Scale (OPALS) which rates plants from 1 to 10 for allergenicity using eye-catching illustrations that show why certain flower and tree species are better choices if you are looking to avoid flying pollen.

Many people spend time outside to find peace and tranquility in a chaotic world. Research has found that when seeking “natural restoration”, we respond best to natural features that are moderately complex – not too smooth and not too busy. A grassy area with openings and some trees provides the highest rewards for inducing tranquility. Fractals or repeating branching patterns, which occur frequently in nature, can be added to a garden to ensure the landscape provides release for the brain from stress and anxiety. The authors encourage you to design a mindfulness corner with a comfortable seat in an area cushioned from street noise with a soothing sound of water or bees buzzing. Who said gardens must be all work?

Gardening can be a solitary pursuit or a communal activity. It can benefit people from all walks of life. Children and adults with special needs can benefit from the experience of growing flowers and food crops. Horticultural therapy is a way in which gardening is used to help people suffering from trauma and illness. For immigrants, growing crops from their home country can help to allay homesickness. And when it comes to children and gardening, psychologists have found that children can cultivate character by taking care of their own individual garden plots. It is also thought that by handling dirt at an early age, children increase their exposure to beneficial microbes, which may boost the immune system.

Since climate change is an ongoing challenge for everyone, the last section covers many aspects of creating a sustainable garden. There are suggestions on how to change barren, water-gobbling lawns into more resilient spaces and the latest recommendations on how to care for your soil, avoid impermeable surfaces, capture run-off, and design rain gardens. Obviously, it is a win-win situation as making your garden better for you will also make it better for the environment.

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Tree of the Month: Eastern White Pine

“O Christmas Tree”

by Becky Stage,  Florida Master Gardener Volunteer

Photo: A field of short conical shaped white pine trees It is believed that the Christmas tree originated in Latvia in the early 1500s and the tradition was brought to the United States by German settlers in the 1800s. It was originally tabletop size but soon became floor to ceiling size. Christmas trees started to be sold commercially in the United States in 1851. At that time, Christmas trees were harvested from forests.  Eventually conservationists became concerned that the natural supply of evergreens was being decimated, which lead to the creation of Christmas Tree Farms. The first Christmas Tree Farm in the United States was started in New Jersey in 1901 and grew Norway spruce trees.

The eastern white pine (Pinus strobus), also known as white pine, northern white pine, northern pine, and soft pine, is a very popular Christmas tree. It is native to New York and all of eastern North America, from Canada down to northern Georgia and Alabama.

Photo: Several towering white pine treesThe eastern white pine is a very large tree, fifty to eighty feet tall and twenty to forty feet wide. It can often be identified by its lone silhouette as it towers over other trees in the forest or by its wide base and gradual layering of upswept branches up to the top.  Pine trees are easy to distinguish from other conifers as they are the only conifer that has their needles bundled in sheaths known as fasicles.  Eastern white pine needles are blue/green to silver/green in color and 2-5 inches long.  It is easy to distinguish from other pines in our area, because it is the only one that has five needles in each fasicle.

Photo: Large conical shaped eastern white oine treeSomewhere between 25-35 million live Christmas trees are sold in the United States each year.  When grown as a Christmas tree, the eastern white pine is cut at six feet and is usually sheared. It takes 6-8 years to produce an eastern white pine Christmas tree whereas it takes other an average 15 years for other Christmas tree species making it very profitable for Christmas tree growers.

The eastern white pine prefers to grow in locations that get lots of sun and have moist, sandy loam soils. It will tolerate some shade and although it will grow on rocky ridges and wet sphagnum bogs, it will not be as magnificent as when grown in its ideal conditions.

Photo: Deep fissured bark of a mature eastern white pine tree
Mature bark

This pine excels as a Christmas tree as it has good to excellent needle retention and very little aroma which is a plus for those who suffer with allergies. On the down side, the branches do not support much weight and it is recommended not to put heavy ornaments on them.

The bark on young eastern white pine trunks and branches is smooth and tends to be greenish-brown in color.  As the tree ages the bark becomes dark gray and deeply fissured. mo

Photo: Clusters of upright,light brown male cones on the ends of branches
Male cones

All pines are gymnosperms, which means that they have neither flowers nor fruits.  Instead of flowers they produce male and female cones. The seeds of conifers are not protected by a fruit, they are naked hence the name  “gymnosperm” which comes from the Greek  meaning “naked seed”.

Eastern white pines are monoecious meaning that both male and female cones occur on the same tree.  Cones are produced in the spring with the male cones located near the bottom of the tree and the female flowers higher up on the tree.  Pines are wind pollinated  and the cone placement helps prevent self-pollination.

Photo: A single dried mature female come hanging off a branch
Mature female cone

The female cones of the eastern white pine are 4-8 inches long and slightly curved. They start out green and become light brown as they ripen.  After pollination, two seeds develop on top of each scale on the cone. The seeds mature at the end of the second season and drop out after the cone dries.  Mature cones often remain attached to the tree for several months before they fall off.

The eastern white pine is very sensitive to air pollution and salt spray. It also is susceptible to insect pests include the white pine weevil, the white pine shoot borer, aphids, bagworms, bark beetles, sawflies, and scale. There are also several diseases that affect white pine trees.

If you are still looking for a Christmas tree, consider getting an eastern white pine.  It is a beautiful tree with its soft, luxurious needles and low allergenic properties.   And  don’t forget to support our local farmers:

Christmas Tree Farms in Orange County New York

And if you are looking for great native tree to add to your landscape, eastern white pines are a great addition.  You can plant a  towering tree or a dwarf cultivar.  They are commonly used as windbreaks and screen.  And eastern white pines help support a wide range of wildlife providing both food and shelter to several mammal species and a whole host of bird species.

Detailed drawing of cones, seeds and needles of eastern white pine tree

Resources

Basic Information

Eastern  White Pine (Pinus strobus) – Woody Plant Database, Cornell University

Eastern White Pine (Pinus strobus) – Plant Database, University of Connecticut

Trees of the Adirondacks: Eastern White Pine (Pinus strobus) – Adirondacks Forever Wild

Care

Pruning Evergreens – Colorado State Extension

Pruning Pines – Michigan State University Extension

White Pine Planting and Care – Tending White Pine – Minnesota Department of Natural Resources

Problems

Dieback of Eastern  White  Pine – University of Massachusetts Extension

Eastern White Pine: Modern Disease Threats to a Historically Important Species – Penn State University

Eastern White Pine Problems – Missouri Botanical Garden

Pine Diseases – Penn State Extension

Pines: What’s Wrong with My Plant? – University of Minnesota Extension

White Pine Weevil – Colorado State Extension

The Flight of a Ruby-throated Hummingbird

by Mary Carol Presutti, New Windsor Master Gardener Volunteer

Green hummingbird with a white throat and grey head perched on a twig
Female ruby-throated hummingbird

The ruby-throated hummingbird flew into the porch door window and lay lifeless on the ground.  Not ten minutes ago, she had been darting around the yard, along with another female, sipping the necter from my coral honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens) and giant hyssop (Agastache sp.).  The two of them had been there on and off all summer, so it’s not like she didn’t have the lay of the land.  I could only assume the two girls had been fighting over the honeysuckle, as they are wont to do in a race to put on winter weight, and I guess it got out of hand.

Photo: Bunches of light red tubular flowers
Coral honeysuckle

I thought about the little bird now laying lifeless on the ground, it would never make it to wherever she would have spent the winter.  Thinking about it, I didn’t know where she would have headed to.  Or the route, or the time taken to get there, or if she would eat along the way, or well…anything about her journey.

The remaining bird was sitting on the fence near the honeysuckle looking in my direction.  She perched there for maybe five minutes then flew away, and I never saw the bird again.

Map showing Ruby-throated Hummingbird Range throughout the yearSo, as the little ruby-throated began the first day of her winter journey, I sat down in front of my laptop and began to learn as much as I could about what she would be doing in the days and weeks ahead.

After leaving my yard in New Windsor, she would have traveled southwest to somewhere along the Gulf of Mexico.  She would fly during daylight, just over the treetops in constant search for food. During most of the flight she had to make sure that her weight stayed high by eating flower nectar, insects, sugar water provided by birders, and interestingly, the sugary and protein laden contents of yellow-bellied sapsucker holes.  Her normal weight is between 3 and 4 grams, about the weight of a penny.  To prepare for her trip she had to double her weight while she was in New York.

Female ruby-throated hummingbird at a feederOnce she reached the Gulf, there was a final push across the water as she flew nonstop for 500 miles until she reached land.  Young and older birds may fly along the coastline into Mexico to reach their destination.  My bird may have had the good fortune to alight on a passing boat or possibly an oil rig for a short rest.  It is an amazing journey for such a tiny bird.

It is now December so the ruby-throated hummingbird who, in September, perched on the fence watching me, has by now made the long 1600 mile or more trip to one of a few locations in Mexico and Central America. However, there is a chance that she may be wintering in one of the southernmost states.  In the last 25 years with the temperature change, the ruby-throated hummingbirds’ range has expanded 200 miles north of its traditional southernmost range.

Sometime in March the trip back north will begin and by the end of April to mid-May she will arrive close to where she was born, ready to find a suitable mate, raise her chicks, and prepare for another fall flight.

Interesting Facts about Ruby-throated Hummingbirds

  • Photo: Green hummingbird with a white breast and red collar
    Male ruby-throated hummingbird

    Research indicates that a hummingbird can travel as many as 23 miles in one day. They fly by day and use tail winds to help conserve energy.

  • In eastern part of the United States the ruby-throated hummingbird is the only breeding hummingbird around. Males arrive in New York a few days before females to set up territories
  • Bird banding projects show that when ruby-throated hummingbirds head south, they will follow almost the exact route they took a few short months ago when they were heading north to their breeding grounds. Young birds will return to the location in which they were hatched.
  • Photo: Juvenile red-throated-hummingbird in flight showingits red breast and a few patches of red in the collar area
    Juvenile red-throated hummingbird

    Several species of hummingbirds including the ruby-throated hummingbird follow yellow belly sapsucker woodpeckers to feed on the remaining sap and bugs left over from the holes the sapsucker drills into trees.

  • Hummingbirds eat between 60 and 80% of their protein a day in insects. That’s about 330 fruit flies a day!
  • Photo: Hummingbird with white throat and breast sitting in tiny lichen covered nest on a tree branch
    Female ruby-throated hummingbird on nest

    Hummingbird feet are poorly developed, so if they want to move a few inches while perched they must fly.

  • A group of hummingbirds is called a charm, but you will seldom see a group of hummingbirds gather willingly outside of backyard hummingbird feeders. Hummingbirds are territorial and can be aggressive when food is involved.  The dominant male controls which hummingbirds feed in his territory.  He sits nearby the feeding area and will attack any other males or females that dare to attempt to feed in his territory.  Female hummingbirds that are sociable towards the dominant male are allowed to feed unscathed.

More Information about Ruby-throated Hummingbirds

Photo: Female red-throated hummngbird feeding from a stalk covered wtih of light purpletubular flowers
Female ruby-throated hummingbird feeding from an obedient plant (Physostegia virginiana)

Attracting Hummingbirds – Penn State Extension

Central America Bird Feeder Live Feed – Cornell Lab of Ornithology

Hummingbird Migration – Hummingbirds.net

Hummingbird Sightings – Journey North

Ruby-throated Hummingbird – National Audubon Society

Understanding Ruby-throated Hummingbirds and Enhancing Their Habitat – University of Maine Cooperative Extension

It’s Gift Season : Gift Giving Dos and Don’ts for the Gardeners in your Life

by Brooke Moore, New Windsor Senior Master Gardener Volunteer

As the Holiday Gift Giving Season approaches so many of us are dreading the “gardener gifts” that will appear.  I do not know a single gardener who does not have a box, a basket, or a stash somewhere of inappropriate garden themed gifts that they were not happy to have received.  So, in the spirit of the season, here are some gift dos and don’ts on how to thrill the gardener in your life with a well thought-out gift.

Don’ts:

One Size Fits All Gloves!  Do not buy someone else gloves, unless you can get an exact match to the pair that the gardener currently wears every single time they are out toiling in their garden.  Next to shoes gloves really need to fit and feel properly for them to work.  Too big and you have no control over your fingers, too small and they are painful, too thin and the dirt and thorns go right through, too thick and you don’t have enough dexterity.  Stay away from gloves.

Photo: X over a photo of small pots of houseplants on a window sillHouse plants.  Between the plants that were brought in to overwinter and the cuttings that are taking up all the spare room on the window ledges, even the most dedicated gardener probably has more than enough house plants by mid-winter.  If you absolutely, positively know that there is a plant your favorite gardener is lusting after then okay, you can give it to them.  Otherwise, just look and enjoy them at the store.

Photo: 'X' over a pair of pruners Pruners.  Sort of like gloves everyone has their favorites and unless you have been given the exact one that is wanted a gift certificate is a way better option.

Cute shirts, hats, aprons, pillows, etc. with ‘garden sayings’ printed on them.  Yikes these are a plague on most houses.  Usually poor quality, rarely fit, and if the gardener really wanted it, they would already have it.  Now if you sew and are making a custom item, that is cool, and will be much appreciated.

Photo: Red 'X' over garden hoseHoses.  Another way personal item that is specific to the person who does the watering.  Size, weight, length, and material make a huge difference.  Common complaints from those of us who do the watering include it’s too heavy to drag with water in it, it kinks to easily and shorts out the flow, it is impossible to reel up and store making an annoying task even more so.  If you have a ‘Gift List’ with a specific hose listed then perfect, get that one but do NOT purchase a substitute.

Photo: red 'X' over a pair of muddy rubber bootsGarden Boots. (See Gloves!)  Boots are just about impossible to choose for someone else.  If you think a  pair of new boots is needed, a gift card will let the wearer select the right size, height, and weight .  There are so many options that finding the right pair takes a lot of work and usually once a gardener find a pair that fit and feel great they are very loyal to them.

Photo: Red 'X' over the head of a shovelSpades or Shovels.  Length of handle, weight, shape of the head, all are a very personal preferences.  Again, if one specific one was asked for perfect.  Otherwise offer to take them out shopping to pick their favorite!

Dos:

So if that gets rid of all of your ideas what should you think about giving to the gardener in your life?

Pile of analog stop watchesTime. My number one suggestion is the gift of time, time in which you will help the gardener in you life dig holes, rake, mulch, move plants, visit a garden to get ideas, shop for a native plants, etc.  Having a freely given chunk of time to help out will be a gift that can be given with love and received with excitement.

Garden Membership. A membership to a garden such as the New York Botanical Garden (NYBG) in New York City or Stonecrop Gardens in Cold Spring will allow the gardener in your life to visit and make discoveries throughout the year.

Mask. We are not done with masking yet so a floral or plant themed mask is a great gift.  Make sure it can hold a filter, will fit snugly, and has adjustable ear loops.

Photo: raised beds full of plants
Catskill Native Nursery

Gift Certificates. Gardeners are always trying new plants out in their gardens, so a gift certificates to buy plants are always appreciated. Think of local plant sales like the one at the Orange County Arboretum or a local nursery like the Catskill Native Nursery and White Flower Farm. Along with a gift certificate, throw in the gift of time to help get the new plants in the ground.

Voucher for a Class or Program. Every year Cornell Cooperative Extension of Orange County offers program on topics ranging from pruning, vegetable gardening, and composting to flower arranging, leaf casting, and wreath making.  Let the gardener pick the program that works best for them.

White spider camouflaged on a white daisy nabbing a flyFramed photo of last year’s bloom. Look through the photos on your phone and pick something that reminds you of the best of the garden.  Put it in a pretty frame and it will make everyone smile through the winter months.  Consider getting a metal print that does not need a frame.  These are dramatic and really showcase a bloom!  My favorite budget friendly but high-quality source is Nations Photo Lab.

Tickets to a Garden Show. This year’s Connecticut Flower & Garden Show is at the end of February and the Philadelphia Flower Show is in mid-June. Both are wonderful opportunities to get out, learn more, and enjoy gardens!


Photo: Lush green plants in a forest garden
Stonecrop Gardens – Cold Spring, New York

The Eensy Weensy Spider

By Sharon Lunden, Goshen Master Gardener Volunteer

A brown spider on a cement surface
Funnel weaver spider (Agelenopsis sp.)

Welcome to autumn, time for falling leaves, pumpkin spice everything, candy corn and… spiders!  Fall is spider mating season, so they are more visible this time of year. Typically it is the female you will notice since the males are on the move to find a suitable mate.  Whether you find spiders beautiful or frightening, they are an important part of our world.  Allow me introduce you to a few of our area’s eight legged residents, so you, too, can appreciate them.

Note: When measuring spiders only the body length is measured, the legs are not included in the measurement.

A brown spider covered with short prickly hairs hanging from a web
Funnel weaver spider (Agelenopsis sp.)

Have you noticed a dewy webs stretching across the surface of your shrubs, grass, or ground cover?  This may have been created by a funnel weaver, or grass spider, in the family Agelenidae.  Spiders in this family build large webs that resemble a small sheet, but with a small funnel on one side.  These webs are not sticky themselves, but provide both a place to hide and a platform for this fast-moving spider to capture an unsuspecting insect after it is knocked into the web by a network of other threads strategically placed above the sheet.  You’re more likely to see the web than its yellow brown builder unless you pay close attention or find one indoors as they seek warmth during the increasingly cold weather.  These spiders measure anywhere from 9 to 20 mm (⅓ to ¾ inch) length, males being slightly smaller than females, and are recognized by long spinnerets on the back of their abdomen and distinctive striping on the top side of their cephalothorax.

Two spiders, on redish-broen and one black with off-white markings and legs hanging out in the middle of a web of silk strands
Bowl and doily spiders (Frontinella communis)

Spiders in the Linyphiidae family are also sheet web weavers, but they are much smaller (1 to 8.5 mm / 0.04 to ⅓ inch) and less noticeable.  Theses spiders build a flat sheet, sometime in two layers, and hide underneath, ready to capture its prey, running out to bite and immobilize any insect that lands.  These are some of the most common spiders found in vegetation.

A small spider with green legs and colorful markings in its abdomen suspended in a web next to a trapped insect
Orchard orb weaver spider (Leucauge venusta)

The orchard orb weaver (Leucauge venusta) belongs to the Tetragnathidae family.  It is a small (3.5 to 7 mm / ⅒ to ¼ inch), pretty green spider with orange markings.  As you might guess, they are commonly found in orchards, woodland edges, and under the overhanging eves of structures situated near hedges or gardens.  They usually create horizontal orb webs and rest on underside of the center to wait for dinner. Unlike many solitary spiders, sometimes, when prey is abundant, these spiders will attach their webs together.

A fatspider with striped legs clinging to a web speckled with insects
Cross spider (Araneus diadematus)

Some of the more intimidating visitor to the garden are spiders from one of the largest spider family, the Araneidae or true orb weavers.  Specimens from this ancient family have been found in amber dating back to 121-115 million years ago.  These spiders are usually most active at night, which is when they build their large, round (orb) shaped webs used to catch night flying insects.  Typically, they are shades of brown and gray and vary in size measuring from 6 to over 25 mm in length (¼ to 1 inch).  Their leg segments often have alternating colors given them a striped pattern and they frequently have highly patterned abdomens like the pictured Araneus diadametus.

Digram showing the extrnal anatomy of a spider
Diagram of the underside and head of a spider

Spider silk is created in spinnerets, located at the rear of the spider’s abdomen.  It is used not only to capture dinner, but also for transportation, finding a suitable mate, and for shelter.  Some orb weavers even use silk is to create a daytime hiding place by using it to binding a leaf together.

Some spiders may produce several types of webbing silk.  Orb weavers use a non-sticky silk to build the radial threads and outer frame of their web (like bicycle spokes and rim) and a sticky silk to fill in, used to catch prey.  Orb weavers often have a conspicuous zig-zag pattern built into their web called a stabilimentum.  Although the function of the stabilimentum is not well understood, some scientists hypothesis that it may attract prey through an ultraviolet fluorescence. Unseen to the human eye ultraviolet light is visible to many insects, and many flowers reflect ultra violet light to attract pollinators.

Black and yellow orb wearver sider in the center of her web which has a very visible zig-zag stabilimentum
Black and yellow garden spider (Argiope aurantia)

My favorite orb weaver is the black and yellow garden spider(Argiope aurantia).  This spider is a striking sight in the garden.  The females are among the largest spiders in New York State, with their bodies measuring up to 30 mm in length (1¼ inches).  Like many spiders they are sexually dimorphic meaning the males and females have different forms.  Unlike the females, the males are tiny only measuring up to 8 mm (⅓ inch). Theses spiders prefer sunny spots in fields and gardens, building large webs which include a long zig-zag pattern which some believe helps birds to avoid being caught in the web, a catch larger than even this spider can handle. Each web is rebuilt every morning so that the web remains sticky.

Though many of us have a natural instinct to fear spiders, it is important to recognize their contribution to our world and to appreciate that that they dine on many pests and are generally not aggressive. If you find a spider has built a web near the entrance to your home or vehicle, get close enough that the spider retreats elsewhere, then clear away the web. Eventually they will get the hint and relocate. Please do not commit arachnicide! With time you may even consider these eight legged creatures a beautiful and welcome guest in your garden.

Spider References

Common Spiders of New York – NYS Department of Environmental Conservation

Grass Spiders – Penn State Extension

Spiders in New York – Spider ID

The Acorn Story

By Claudine Sullivan, Walden Master Gardener Volunteer

Several acorns hanging in an oak tree wich has leaves that have started to turn brownOne of the most recognizable symbols of fall is a branch of oak leaves and a couple of acorns.  Oak trees (Quercus spp.) have been around for approximately 55 million years old, with the oldest North American specimen being 44 million years old.  Long before pumpkins and corn stalks came to symbolize harvest and bounty, people depended on the humble acorn and majestic oak tree for sustenance and shelter.  Today we think of oak trees in terms of shade, firewood, and sturdy furniture, but as acorns can be stored for long periods of time and the flour made from them is quite nutritious for thousands of years acorns were the main food staple for people in balanocultures.

A photo looking up at the top of a massive oak tree
Black oak

Oak trees are a dominant plant in many forest ecosystems and currently there are about 500 species of oaks growing in temperate and tropical climates throughout the world.  There are about 90 species of oak trees native to the United States including eleven here in New York.

All oak trees produce acorns, this is the fruit and contains a nutrient rich seed.  It can be hard to imagine that a single acorn can become a 200-year-old tree cable of producing millions of other acorns. Acorn production does not begin until an oak tree is about 20 years old, with peak production when the tree is between 50 to 80 years old.  After that acorn production tapers off, although some trees will produce acorns well into their second century and beyond.

A photo of the rounded-lobed leaves of a white oak tree.
White oak leaves

Oaks in North American are divided into two groups: White Oaks and Red (Black) Oaks.  Each group has distinct leaf shape and acorn production strategy.  White or annual oaks have rounded-lobed leaves, flower later in the spring than red oaks, and have sweet tasting acorns that mature in one season.  The acorns of the white oaks can start to germinate as soon as they hit the ground in the fall.

A photo of the pointed-lobed leaves of a norther red oak.
Northern red oak leaves

Red or biennial oaks have pointed-lobed leaves, flower earlier in the spring than white oaks, and have bitter tasting acorns that take two years to mature.  Because their acorns take two years to mature, it is possible to have two seasons of acorns on each twig.  The acorns of the red oaks need a period of cold stratification that lasts 6-8 weeks in order to germinate.

Oaks Native to New York State
White / Annual Oaks Red / Biennial Oaks
Bear Oak   Quercus ilicifolia Chestnut Oak   Quercus montana
Chinkapin Oak   Quercus muehlenbergii Black Oak   Quercus velutina
Dwarf Chinkapin Oak   Quercus prinoides Northern Red Oak   Quercus rubra
Post Oak   Quercus stellata Pin Oak   Quercus palustris
Swamp White Oak   Quercus bicolor Scarlet oak   Quercus coccin
White Oak   Quercus alba
Photo: Clump of long cascading catkins covered with tiny flowers
Pin oak catkins

Both white and red oaks are monoecious meaning they have separate male and female flowers found on the same plant. Flowering begins in early spring, just before the leaves start to emerge.  The male flowers are produced on long catkins and are the first to bloom.  After about two weeks, the inconspicuous female flowers will open.  Female flowers are sometimes mistaken for leaf buds and can be found on both upper branches and new twigs, just at the base of new leaves.  They can only truly be appreciated with a magnifying glass.

Photo: Tiny red flowers located on the stem at the base of a leaf.
Northern red oak female flowers

The male flowers shed their pollen and the wind carries it to the female flowers of neighboring trees.  If the male flowers were above the female, the tree would more likely self-pollinate, so to ensure cross-pollination female flowers are located high in the tree, above the male flowers.  Weather can affect acorn production.  A rainy, damp spring will suppress pollination as the pollen will be washed to the ground.  A cold snap can also kill the female flowers.  Once fertilization occurs, a dry spell or other stressors can cause the tree to abort the acorns to conserve the trees resources.

Acorns covering the groundWhen all environmental factors work together, oak trees can produce an overabundance of acorns in what scientists call a “mast year.”  The term mast comes from Old English word meaning “fat” or “food” and can be traced back to the same word origin that gave us “meat”.  Perhaps that’s why the insides of nuts is called “the meat”.  In a mast year, one mature oak tree can produce 10,000 acorns.  Not every year is a mast year and not all trees have them in the same year.  In fact, the exact cause of a “mast year” is still not completely understood.  Scientists hypothesize that factors including weather and evolutionary adaptation play a part in this natural phenomenon.

Photo: Two acorns on the ground, one is slightly cracked and has begun to sprout.
Germinating acorn

When it comes to acorn production scientist have observed a two to five year production cycle that includes a mast crop year, a few average years, and a poor year.  Why have oaks (and other nut trees) developed this interesting quirk?  One hypothesis is that it is a survival strategy.  Oak trees depend on small mammals such as chipmunks and squirrels, and birds such as blue jays and woodpeckers for seed dispersal.  When there is an overabundance of acorns produced not all of them will be eaten, ensuring that some of them will be able to germinate and grow into trees.

Gray squirrel eating something in its hands
Gray squirrel

The acorn production cycle also has huge effects on the forest food web.  Just under 100 species depend on the acorn as a primary source of food including birds, black bears, chipmunks, deer, mice, and squirrels.  When the forest floor is full of acorns, the species that depend on the acorns for food have an easier winter.  This results in an increase in the animal population the following year.  Mast years use a lot of the tree’s resources, so they are often followed by a few years of lean or average acorn production.  In years when there are fewer acorns, fewer animals survive, keeping the population in balance.

Blacklegged tick crawling on a piece of cloth
Blacklegged tick

An interesting study conducted in southeastern New York shows that mast years not only effect the animal population that eat acorns, but it also effects tick populations that feed on the acorn eaters. After a mast year, populations of chipmunks, squirrels, and white-footed mice increase.  These small mammals are key to the life cycle of the blacklegged or deer tick (Ixodes scapularis), the only vector for Lyme disease in the northeastern United States.

A diagram of the lifecycle of a black-legged tick: Eggs hatch in the spring. In the summer the larvae feed on small animals such as birds and mice. The following spring nymphs feed on larger animals such as deer, fox, squirrels, and humans. Risk of human infection greatest in late spring and summer. In the fall adults feed on large animals such as deer, fox and humans. The adults lay eggs the following spring.
Lifecycle of the black-legged tick

When tick eggs hatch in spring, the emerging larvae are not infected with Lyme disease.  Their first host is usually a small mammal.  If their first host is a carrier of Borrelia burgdorferi, the bacteria that causes Lyme disease, the ticks become infected.  After feeding, the larval ticks drop-off their hosts and molt into nymphs.  The following spring the nymphs, which now may carry Lyme disease, search for new hosts, and this time they are more likely to chose a large animal such as a deer or a human.  As a result it has been observed that two years after an acorn mast year, Lyme disease cases see an uptick.

So next time you step on an acorn or hear one go THUNK! on your car or shed roof, remember that it is much more that just a fall decoration.

Photo: a single acorn lying on the ground near some moss

Clean Your Garden with Insects in Mind

by Mary Carol Presutti, New Windsor Master Gardener Volunteer

Between now and mum season there are a few things you can do to get a head start for spring cleanup with minimum fuss.


Weed

A pair of gloved hands holding some freshly picked weedsThis is a perfect time to get a start on weed management for the spring.  Shorter days and colder weather in the months ahead will reduce the activity of plant growth.  You want to keep the process as natural as possible.  Pull weeds to your hearts content without overly disturbing the soil.  Don’t use hoes or rakes, and don’t turn the soil over unless you must.  When you disturb the soil too much seeds resting on top of soil get planted in the loose soil, and seeds deep in the soil are brought closer to the surface where they will be able to sprout.  Every time you move soil around without a purpose, the roots and seeds of unwanted plants are given the go ahead to sprout away.

Organic Weed Management – Cornell University


Mulch

Freshly mulched garden bed in front of a houseBare soil is an invitation for weeds to… well, put down roots!  Cover weeds that you want gone by the spring with a layer of weighted cardboard. Sometimes I think I shop online more for the cardboard shipping boxes then for what’s inside.  I also love using sheets of bark from my fireplace wood in and around my garden plants.  Tree bark adds nutrients, cuts down on weed growth, and is a good insulator for tender plants.  Grass clippings or shredded leaves make a nice winter mulch, but cut up leaves soon after they fall to the ground before insects and small animals take shelter.  Rake only the leaves you need to, leaving a goodly amount for insects to find winter cover.

Organic Garden Mulches to Conserve Moisture and Prevent Weeds – South Dakota State University Extension

Leave the Leaves – Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation


Seed

A group of blazing star blooms - cyclindrical spikes covered with tiny purple flowers
Blazing star

There are so many plants that seed themselves if you leave them be, although you must be patient as they will need a year or two to establish themselves from seed.  Here are a few of my favorites

Self-Seeding Perennials – University of Minnesota Extension

Which flowers are self-sowing? – University of New Hampshire Extension


Collect Seeds

Three milkweed seed pods that have been spilt open. One is empty and the other two contain lots of small, brown, oval-shaped seed attached to a silky strands that will help disperse the wind disperse them.
Milkweed seed pods

I love collecting seeds and seed heads as they mature throughout the year.  I either give them to friends or propagate them in other areas of my own garden.  Make sure you collect seeds from plants that produce viable seeds.  Some cultivars are bred to be sterile, and hybrids may produce seed, but the offspring will not necessarily resemble the parent plant.  It is best to stick with uncultivated species and their varieties.  Seeds and seed pods vary greatly.  Milkweed produces seed pods which open to disperse seeds, while catmint, verbena, and blazing star produce seed heads after the plants flower.   Research gathering techniques, proper storage, and how to plant different kinds of seeds in your garden.

Saving Seeds from Annuals and Perennials – The National Gardening Association

How to Collect and Store Seeds – Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center


Disease Management

Black, yellow, and white stripped monarch caterpillar feeding on milkweed.
Monarch caterpillar

If you grow native milkweeds, consider cutting back the plants this month to discourage next year’s growth from harboring any diseases that may have been left by this year’s monarchs. The most prevalent is Ophryocystis elektroscirrha, a parasitic protozoan that affects caterpillars.  An infected monarch butterfly can host thousands of these parasites on their wings.  Dispose of the cuttings with your regular trash instead of composting.

A wild begamont plant with leaves covered witha white substance.
Powdery mildew on wild bergamont

The stems and leaves of diseased plants should also be cut and disposed of in the trash as well.  A good example is wild bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), which is very susceptible to powdery mildew.  If left alone the mildew will overwinter on the old stems and may transfer to new growth in springtime.

Powdery Mildew of Ornamentals –  Cornell Cooperative Extension Nassau County


Create Habitat for Pollinators

Milweed stems that have been cut back so the hollow stem can be used for by cavity nesting bees
Cut back milkweed stems

One way to help local native bee populations is to encourage nesting in your garden.  Cut back some of the hollow-stemmed plants like Joe-Pye weed (Eutrochium spp.) and milkweed leaving them about a foot tall as to create a space for cavity nesting bees to nest.  For the ground nesting bees, avoid heavy wood mulches which are impossible for these small insects to burrow into.

Pollinator Nesting Resources – Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation

Wild Bees of New York – Cornell University


Fall Bulbs – Plant Now For Spring Delights

By Brooke Moore, New Windsor Senior Master Gardener Volunteer

Cluster of daffodils yellow with orange centers
Daffodils
Six daffodil bulbs
Daffodil bulbs

When doing a cost-benefit analysis, there is nothing in gardening that has a greater benefit that planting bulbs in the fall.  For minimal cost and labor now, you can have a garden filled with blossoms bursting with color, texture, and fragrance in the spring.  All it takes is a little planning, a bit of digging, and some patience to transform your spring garden experience.

The varieties of bulbs that thrive in our region is almost endless and includes something for every color palette, growing condition, and size requirement.  Spend a few hours looking through some catalogs, and you will find a good selection of options that will work for your environment.


Bulb Selection
Where to Plant

How to Plant
Bulb Care
Types of Spring Flowering Bulbs

Bulb Selection

Single deep magenta tulipsSpring flowering bulbs are usually classified by four basic characteristics: bloom time (early, mid, and late spring), height, bloom form, and color.  Depending on your garden aesthetic, one or more of these characteristics will help determine what bulbs are right for you.

Catalogs list the growing requirements needed for ideal bloom of every bulb; these include amount of sun, soil type, and planting depth.  Keep in mind that areas of your garden that are in partial shade during the summertime may be in full or mostly full sun in the springtime when many plants are still emerging and/or have not yet leafed out.  This means that bulbs can be the ultimate companion plant, providing early season interest before being hidden by established perennial plants.

Bulb growers offer mixes based on color, bloom time, and compatible forms.  You can also create your own mix by ordering a selection of bulbs and mixing them together. Mixes are often an economical way to have both a variety, and a mix of more expensive bulbs and more common ones.  If you have never had any bulbs this is a good way to get started and feel confident in your abilities to grow bulbs.

Purchasing spring blooming bulbs in advance is the best way to get a good price, but even in the fall there are deals to be found.  Most mail order bulbs are imported from Holland; the quality from these well-established retailers is very good.  There are also a few USA based bulb producers; if that is important to you, they are worth the search.  You can also get unusual colors and forms from specialty growers.  Mass marketed bulbs, like those from big box stores, may be smaller but will still bloom and perform well in the garden.  Just make sure that the bulbs are not dried out before you buy them.


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Where to Plant

Raised flower bed with pastel pink and yellow tulips and grape hyacinth
Tulips and grape hyacinth

Look at your garden and consider if a large intense planting will suit your needs or a more random insertion of bulbs into existing planting is more of an option.  Consider expanding the edges of your garden to incorporate bulbs or dividing some of your perennials to open up some space for bulbs.  Planting into lawns is another wonderful way to introduce bulbs.  Sighting locations from inside your house is a great idea as you want to be able to see your blooming bulbs in the early spring when it may be too cool to be sitting outside.

If you are starting fresh with a larger area that has nothing planted, then a bulb mix will provide the largest number of bulbs for your investment.  Most mixes will indicate the approximate space that they will fill.  Keep in mind that over time your bulbs will multiply and fill in even more.  Most will need some dividing every 4-5 years although some will be shorter lived and will need to be replaced.

Magenta tulip against a blurry sea of grape hyacinth flowers in bloomBulbs can be included as part of a cutting garden as well.  Consider using a portion of a flower bed or veggie bed as a way of having lots of spring blooms to bring inside.  Sale bags of tulips are a good bet for this, since you will be removing or lifting the bulbs after they bloom.

Most home gardeners keep their bulbs in the ground from year to year, but many public gardens lift the bulbs after blooming and discard them to provide space to plant annuals.  This is an option for home gardeners as well, but it will increase cost and labor as you will need to replant every year.  You can plant annuals around your bulbs but be aware that the water needs of annuals may impact the health of the bulbs which do not like nearly as much water as most annuals require.


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How to Plant

A pile of tulip bulbs
Tulip Bulbs

Bulbs will produce best when planted in direct contact with the soil.  If you are doing a large planting, dig the whole area removing the soil, place the bulbs with the tips up and fill around and over them.  When digging individual holes be sure that the bottom is wide enough to accommodate the bulb with the base in contact with the soil.

Disturbed ground will attract animals who love to snack on bulbs so placing some chicken wire just below the soil surface can deter digging by small animals.

An informal planting looks most natural so casting the bulbs onto the ground so that there is a random pattern looks better than rigid rows of plants.  Bulbs with staggered bloom times can be planted in layers and groupings at the same timedaffodils deepest followed by tulips with crocuses and other small bulbs near the top.


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Bulb Care

Most bulbs require very little care.  Try and resist cutting back foliage too soon; let it die back naturally so the maximum amount of nutrition will be available for next year’s bloom.  A light fertilizing is fine but if you have healthy soil and maintain it over the season you do not need to do anything else.  Avoid over-watering them once they have stopped growing.


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Types of Spring Flowering Bulbs

The basic spring bulbs, crocuses, daffodils, and tulips, are a great starting place but there are so many other options to consider as well.  Each type of plant has several species and hundreds if not thousands of varieties and cultivars to choose from. So let’s look at some of the options that are easy to find and cost effective to introduce to your garden.

Clump of crocuses growing up against a building in a bed of rocks Crocuses

Common crocuses range in size from less than half an inch to over four inches with solid and stripped colors in white, purples, yellows and oranges.  Over time they can change in color as they naturalize.  Crocuses are an easy bulb to put into lawns; using a mix of bloom times will ensure that your lawn is colorful for weeks.

Daffodils

A two foot wide row of white daffodils growing on the edge of a grassy fieldDaffodils are a great group of bulbs to begin with.  They come in a range of colors from the bright cheery yellow we all know, to soft pinks, stripes, vibrant oranges, greens, and brilliant whites.  Large outward facing blossoms are a standard but there are small clusters with contrasting petals and double blossoms as well.  In choosing plants think about what other shapes and textures will be a part of the garden.  Finding a mix of colors, blossom forms and heights will allow you to mimic other plants in your design and compliment hardscapes.  Daffodils will also naturalize well especially in partly shady areas.

Daffodils can be used as deer training plants to protect tender more deer loved plants from browsing.  As deer do not like them once they find them at the edge of a bed they move on and leave the lilies and tulips alone.

Pair of pastel pink tulips about to open in front of a white paper birch treeTulips

Tulips are probably the best loved bulb worldwide.  Loved by deer, these cheerful and graceful plants come in many sizes, colors and heights.  From tiny tulips that grow low to the ground to giant Darwin tulips that can tower over other plantings, the colors range from sweet pale pastels to vibrant neons.  Large color block plantings are often seen but choosing a color range from light to dark is another dramatic way of using the variety to great design benefit.  Again, there are many pre-packaged groupings to get you started.

Blossom form for tulips ranges from classic large to fringed, to doubles, to more petite.  Select what works with the other plants around them.  An example of this is putting double bloom or parrot tulips amongst peonies, the two flower shapes are similar and so the experience is linked from season to season.  The height is also a factor and tulips can range from 8-10 inches to upwards of 24 inches!  Read the descriptions carefully and think about what the final result will be.  When you are inserting bulbs into existing plantings consider what the other plants will be like at the peak bloom time.  You don’t want something to cover up your bulbs when they are in bloom.

Other bulbs to consider
Large purple allium bloom - a spherical ball of tiny purple flowers
Allium

Alliums – a punch of shape and a feast for pollinators

Anemone blanda – sweet, cottagey blooms in pastel colors

Brodiaea spp. – late bloomers that can help bridge to summer perennial blooms, unusual flower forms in blue and purple tones

A single six-petaled white flower
Glory-of-the-Snow

Glory-of-the-Snow (Chionodoxa luciliae) – earliest bloomers, work great in deep shade under trees

Dutch Iris (Iris hollandica) – delicate form and early bloom time makes these a delight in the garden,  multi-colored, great addition to a border or a rock garden

A downward facing cup-shaped deep purple flower with a light checkered pattern
Fritillaria meleagris

Fritillaria spp. – with the caveat that they are a host for Lilly Leaf Beetles, very diverse group of plants that are dramatic in shape and size

Grape Hyacinth (Muscari spp.) – range of colors, blues, pinks and whites with a few yellows, great edge plants

Grape Hyacinth - cones of tightly packed purple flowers
Grape hyacinth

Hyacinth (Hyacinthus spp.) – not just for potted planting!, huge range of size, color, and fragrance

Lilies – another group of bulbs that should planted in the fall but they deserve their own blog post!

Scilla spp. – early bloomers with white, pink, or purple blooms, deer and rodent resistant, naturalize well

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The truth about spring blooming fall planted bulbs is that there are options galore and the only issue is how many you feel you can plant!

Growing a Bat Friendly Garden

By Cecille Jones, Monroe Master Gardener Volunteer

This article appeared in the July 2021 Issue of Gardening in Orange County.

Cluster of bats hanging upside down from a ciment ceiling
Big Brown Bats (Eptesicus fuscus)

My informal poll on bats confirmed my suspicion: people either like them or hate them. There’s no in-between. I don’t mean to preach to the converted. But if you shudder at the thought of inviting these flying nocturnal mammals into your property, it’s time to talk facts about bats.

First, let’s bust some myths. People often use the phrase “blind as a bat,” but there are no bats that are actually blind. Additionally, bats are not flying rats. They belong to the order Chiroptera, not Rodentia. And not all bats have rabies, either. In fact, bats contract rabies much less frequently than other mammals. Moreover, bats do not suck people’s blood; nor do they get tangled in people’s hair.

A little brown bat on the ground with its mouth open, showing its teeth
Little Brown Bat (Myotis lucifugus)

Ignore their bad reputation. It’s unwarranted. Instead, focus on creating an inviting space for bats to visit your yard so you can enjoy the many benefits these fuzzy creatures have to offer.

Like birds, bees and butterflies, bats are important pollinators – only they cover the night shift. According to the U.S. Forest Service, bats pollinate and disperse seeds for more than 700 plants. Without bats, you can forget avocados, bananas, dates, peaches, figs, mangoes and other commercially valuable crops. Bats are the only pollinator of the agave plant used to make tequila. Without them, you can kiss your margarita goodbye.

Bats are also excellent eradicators of pesky insects like mosquitoes, caterpillars, moths, gnats and flying beetles. They have been documented to eat bugs that attack pecans, almonds, corn, coffee, tomatoes, cucumbers and beans. A single bat can devour up to 1,200 mosquito-sized insects every hour. That makes bats your friendly provider of free nontoxic pesticide. Scientists estimate that bats in the United States save us billions of dollars in pest control services every year. That’s good reason to love, not loathe, bats.

Because bats feed on insects, they suffer when there are problems with insect populations or when habitats are destroyed or poorly managed. Hence, bats are good indicators of biodiversity.

To attract bats to your garden, plant flowers that are late-day blooming or night-scented. Here are some suggestions:

Samll white flowersMock orange shrub (Philadelphus virginalis): This late-blooming deciduous plant provides a stunning citrus fragrance and can be used in groups as screening or as a stand-alone specimen. They also make excellent cut flowers indoors. It’s not a true orange, and its name supposedly derives from the fragrant white flowers which in some varieties resemble that of orange blossoms.

Spherical cluster of lavander colored flowersPhlox (Phlox paniculata): This native American wildflower is also known as garden phlox and summer phlox. They are sun-loving perennials with a long flowering season. Phlox are tall-eye-catching plants with large clusters of pink, lavender or white flowers, called panicles. They bloom for several weeks in summer and make excellent cut flowers.

Bright yellw spikes of tiny flowers Goldenrods (Solidago spp.): A native to the United States, goldenrods have more than a hundred varieties, with one suitable for every climate. They are clump-forming perennial wildflowers that are topped with plumes of fluffy yellow flowers. Goldenrods provide nectar for pollinators and when planted near vegetables, can draw bad bugs away. They are thought to cause summer allergies, which is a misconception since the pollen from allergy-creating ragweed is present when the goldenrod blooms.

Small rosemary bush with lots of small blue-purple flowers
Rosemary

Herbs can attract bats as well. You can plant rosemary, thyme, chives, lemon balm and marjoram to attract bats to your garden. Just stay away from cinnamon, eucalyptus and peppermint. Bats are repelled by their scent.

 Besides food, bats also need water and shelter. If you don’t live near a pond or stream, a birdbath will help attract them. And what could be more welcoming than giving bats a home of their own? You can buy a bat house online or make your own. The internet is brimming with DIY bat house plans, along with instructions on where to hang them.

Despite their bad reputation, bats actually do more good than bad. So give them a warm welcome and grow a bat friendly garden.

Bat Resources

Bat Conservation International

Bat Pollination – US Forest Service

Bats of New York – NYS DEC

Indiana Bat

Little Brown Bat

Northern Long-eared Bat

White-Nose Syndrome Threatens New York’s Bats

Bats – NYS Integrated Pest Management

Bats – Oregon State Extension

Grow plants for bats! – University of Minnesota Extension

Wildlife Management: Bats – Cornell University

Gardener’s Checklist

October 2021

Garden Maintenance

  • Text: Leaves are not litter. They're food and shelter for butterflies, beetles, bees, moths, and more. Tell friends and neighbors to just #LEAVETHELEAVESProtect overwintering butterflies, beetles, bees, moths and more beneficial insects by leaving the leaves!
  • Make more plants!

Webinar: Make More Plants! Fall Propagation of Native Perennials – CCE Tompkins County

  • Dig up tender bulbs and tubers (i.e. cannas, dahlias, elephant ears, caladiums, etc.) and store them for the winter in a cool dry place.

Storing Tender “Bulbs” for Winter – University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension

  • A pile of tulip bulbs
    Tulip bulbs

    Plant spring-flowering bulbs.

VIDEO: Planting spring bulbs is easy! – University of Minnesota Extension

Pest Watch

  • Cluster of several spotted lanterfly adults near an egg mass laid on the trunk of a tree
    Spotted lanternfly adults and eggs

    Learn more about the Spotted Lanternfly.

VIDEO: Spotted Lanternfly: A New Invasive Pest – NYS IPM

  • Help keep spotted lanternfly from spreading! This invasive insect can lay its eggs in any surface, so make sure you check your car and any items that have been outside when traveling, especially in areas of know infestation like NJ and PA.

Confirmed Spotted Lanternfly Locations – NYS IPM

Checklist for Residents – Pennsylvania Department of Agriculture

  • Info-graphic: Live in Tick County? Do a daily tick check!Report any sightings of Spotted Lanternfly in New York.

Spotted Lanternfly Public Report

  • Do a daily tick check whenever you spend any time outside!

VIDEO: Keeping Pests Out of Your Home this Fall -NYS IPM

Vegetable Gardening

  • Garden bed covered with row cover
    Row cover

    Remove and dispose any diseased plants.  Do NOT put them in you compost pile.

Webinar: Winterize your Veggie Garden – Cornell Cooperative Extension Tompkins County

  • Take some time to learn more about your soil and then get it ready for spring planting.

Webinar: Understanding and Preparing Your Garden Soil – CCE Tompkins County


Happy Gardening!

Wheel Bug - Large Insect with what looks like have of a gear on its back
The wheel bug (Arilus cristatus), a predatory bug that is commonly seen in the fall.