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I just came back from a 12 day trip in Egypt, and have realized just how much Bologna has become my new home. As family life back in the U.S. seems to be changing every day, Bologna seems to be the one constant thing in my life right now. After 12 days in an entirely new environment, I found myself not longing to be back in California or New York, but in my little warm town of Bologna. Traveling to places I’ve only dreamed of is quite a surreal experience. Cairo, Luxor, and the famous port city of Alexandria were places I’d toyed with in my mind since I was five and began repeatedly dressing up as Cleopatra for Halloween (a habit I didn’t kick until a couple of years ago). I admit it, I suffer from Egyptomania–the first step to recovery is admitting the truth, right?Egypt was so much more than the pyramids and the Sphinx, but served a completely new and modern culture my way. I realized the challenge anthropologists must face in trying to be completely unbiased when observing a culture, and it hit me pretty hard: how to deal with a new cultural idea when the opposing one has been engrained in your mind since you were born. For me this was the idea of women equality.
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As Islam is the main religion in Egypt, the majority of women wear veils or burkas outside of their houses. Seeing women in head to toe black cloth, including a little slit of cloth between their eyes, under the blazing hot sun was quite impressionable. As a woman tourist walking down the street in Alexandria everyone stared at you, and there were many times where I felt violated. Unlike in Italy or the US where men stare or cat call at you, the fact that literally every man I passed on the street had something to say or seductively looked me up and down made me feel objectified ten times over. When a man asks your male friend to buy you for 1,000 camels, it’s hard to take it as a compliment.
What really hit me was the segregated mosque entrances for men and women. As my friend’s Dan, Danny, Megan and I were about to enter a beautifully architectured mosque, she and I were escorted to a different entrance where we were given head to toe hoods, while Dan and Danny walked freely into the main entrance. The woman’s side of the mosque (as the men and women are separated by a large fence) consisted of a small corner, while the men’s “side” was pretty much the 95% left remaining. I admit I felt angry, I didn’t get it. I knew my anger stemmed from confusion, and I needed to understand the psychology behind it.
“Islamic society has always divided men and women and historically; women always wore the veil,” says Maya Chadda, PhD, a professor of political science at William Paterson University in Wayne, New Jersey. “[The burka] was originally a garment for modesty since women were considered temptations in Islamic religion. Women were forced to keep out of public places because they were seen as potential corruptors of the Islamic purity of men.”
But at other points in Muslim history the burka has stood for something quite different: subversion. During the Algerian war against the French in the 1960s, the liberated women of Algeria began to wear it as a symbol of their identity, says Dr. Chadda: “They were nationalists and not part of this Francophone culture. They carried guns under their burkas and they played an important role in carrying messages and doing spy work. They took on this identity as a matter of choice. And, in Sri Lanka, which has a very small minority of Muslims, the women never wore burkas until the recent civil war. Since they have come under attack, the women have taken to wearing burkas instead of the traditional saris, as a matter of choice.” (What Are They Hiding? The Women Behind the Veil).
In Egypt wearing the burka is an option, but walking through the streets without one made me realize how much pressure must be put on girls to wear one, rather than being watched scrupulously wherever they went by men and women alike.
Unfortunately while I was traveling I didn’t feel comfortable enough to ask anyone why they wore the veil, but I wish I had to get a better grip on the situation. The experience resparked my passion for cultural research, everything has some sort of logical root, and in anthropology it’s about finding that root and sharing it with others to increase awareness.
*Hochwald, Lambeth. “What Are They Hiding? The Women Behind the Veil.” 16 Dec. 2001. New York. 26 Apr. 2009. <http://www.fashionwindows.com/room_service/2001/veil.asp







































