Archive for the 'Daily Life' Category

25
Feb

Photo(log): Winter Photo Update

By Jake Rudin 0 Comments
Categories: Architecture, Classes, Daily Life, Events, Field Trips, Photo of the week and Uncategorized

There has been quite the variety of activities going on here in Rome during the past few weeks: history class visits to numerous historical monuments, trips to southern Italy, museum visits to the MAXXI, a wonderful lecture from artist/photographer/filmmaker Giorgio de Finis of Metropoliz, and lots of time to get lost in the city.  Here’s a short photo-style update on what some of these wonderful things have been like.

Sometimes a photo just says it all.  Maybe it’s a simple shot of a landscape.  Maybe it’s a “selfie” of you and a friend at the beach (remember to bend your elbow). And sometimes, the expression says it all.

It’s been a cold couple of weeks around here. Although Rome is relatively mild in the winter, the wind can be killer, especially along the Tiber. But that doesn’t stop us from bundling up and exploring the city. This photo was taken at the top of Castle St. Angelo.  We were all freezing in the wind, but in a history class like Jeffrey Blanchard’s, you can’t stop taking notes (even if your hands are freezing).

In the end, the frozen note-taking is worth it because the professors know some of the best views in the whole city.

This Neapolitan’s take on staying warm — trash bags of piping-hot bread — is a tactic I had never seen before; but I imagine it will soon be popping up in spring fashion catalogs across Europe. Particularly France.

 

Sometimes we get lucky.  One of my favorite feelings is coming out of a ruin to find that the sun has decided to grace us with its warming glow. Our visit to Herculaneum was a particularly nice day.

Calm and stoic Paestum.

Followed by a colorful reenactment of the first Greek Olympiad. Courtesy of Maria Paula and Manuela.

It’s times like these where everyone is happily lounging in the Mediterranean sun, that I wonder what ever possessed me to move to Ithaca.

The contrast of locations in Italy is incredible. Travelling with the program has so far yielded an incredible overview of the different types of geography around the country.

And plenty of walking to boot.

While in Rome we may not have architecture hewn from the living rock, there is always something new to be discovered. And when you discover something new, make sure you take a real hard look, because you may find there is more than meets the eye.

Other times… well there’s not a whole lot to do other than be amazed.

04
Feb

a typical studio: out and about

By Jake Rudin 0 Comments
Categories: Architecture, Classes, Daily Life, Field Trips and Uncategorized

As we begin the studio semester, the architecture students traditionally do a lot of work visiting the site of their newest project.  In that regard, this semester is no different. The site that has been chosen by our professors as the site of Rome’s newest Center for Peace and Religious Studies is a triangular shaped park only a couple of blocks from the Colosseum.

Of course the program is quite interesting, and being so close to the Colosseum is certainly a very interesting challenge, but to me what is really amazing is that the surrounding area has so much history to offer. The Celian hill, of which our site is part, stretches from the Colosseum to the most important church in Rome, San Giovanni Laterano. It was a residential hill with both elite and common citizens during the late ancient and early medieval periods. The military hospital that flanks our site on its eastern side is a reminder of the four military barracks that were once on the hill. To the west of the site sits the remains of the Temple of Claudius which was built in 43 CE. Interestingly enough, the surrounding area is also rich in religious history (a great reason to choose it for the site of a religious studies center), having been home to Persian cults, Imperial cults, Asian Cults, Egyptian cults, the cult of the god Mithra, and early Christianity. Needless to say, exploring our site has been a wonderful way to get to know more about the history of the city.

As architects tend not to stay in one place for too long (especially if that place is our studio desk), our entire studio class also decided to take a trip to the EUR New Congress Centre, henceforth referred to as the “cloud” because of the amorphous figure suspended in the center. The “cloud,” by Italian practice Fuksas Architects, is sited in the southern part of Rome and was quite the trek in respect to our site and other field trips to date which have been within close walking distance.

Visiting the construction site was quite the experience. Upon our arrival, the guard asked for copies of all of our passports (that’s when we knew they were serious). We then passed through the gate and were each given a pair of steel-toed work boots and a hard hat. Seeing 30 architects in white hard hats is a hilarious site, as it is often the only non-black element of the person’s outfit.

We then proceeded to walk into the building, with Davide Marchetti and George Hascup each pointing out their favorite and least favorite parts of the building which I don’t have the space for here. We then took a massive construction elevator up into the steel frame of the “cloud,” which hosts an auditorium for 1,850 people and conference rooms for over 6,000 which will host congresses, exhibitions and events.  All of this will be housed within the organically shaped steel frame covered with a white translucent fabric. We then departed from the site and were treated to an extra long lunch break and the opportunity to explore that part of the city before returning to studio.

One of the best parts of being in Rome is having the chance to escape the “campus” and explore the rich context around it.  I’m certainly looking forward to more classes out and about.

31
Jan

Sounds of Rome

By Lillian 0 Comments
Categories: Daily Life

Upon arriving in Rome, the first word that came to mind to describe it was bustling. It’s a city full of people, motor vehicles, and energy. While, I was expecting to see many things that would be visually alluring, what I was not expecting was the noise. I think the reason the noise stands out to me so much is because I have previously never lived in a big city. From clinking cappuccino cups to street musicians, there are many sounds to be heard.

Right away a certain high-pitched melody stood out to me- that of the ambulance sirens. They produce a noise distinctly different from the ones in the U.S. For the Rome program we live in centro storico, the historical center of Rome which is an amazing experience. My apartment is located at the corner of a busy intersection, which means constant noise and sirens all the time. For those of you not familiar with the sound please find the link (not recorded my me) here.

View out the apartment window

Earlier, during my first week here I really enjoyed visiting the Trevi Fountain. The extravagant 18th century fountain combined with the beautiful blue reflecting water is simply captivating. Unlike in photos that show it absent of people, during the day I found it to be crowded with eager admirers. One of my favorite parts was despite the crowd the water from the fountain produces a gushing noise loud enough to be heard from all around the fountain. The noise of the water is a distinct sound that definitely adds to the viewing experience, in a way that you can’t get from  just a postcard.

Crowd overlooks Trevi Fountain

Finally, the voices of others create a noise that adds to the essence of life in Rome. All around me on the street I can hear people speaking in Italian. Whether it’s people passing by in conversation, a barista taking an order, or a driver yelling at a pedestrian in the middle of the street, all the voices come together to create a sound that creates a vivacious and beautiful city atmosphere.

24
Jan

when in rome…be like the romans

By Elliot Sperling 0 Comments
Categories: Daily Life

Adjusting to a new place can be difficult. Already being in Europe and having to make another extreme adjustment presented itself as even more challenging. Many of us flew from the United States preparing for Italian culture to hit us upon arrival. I, however, came from Stockholm. Many would think that being in Europe can make the adjustment even easier, but it was quite the opposite case for me. Spending the last five months in Stockholm, it was a complete and total change for me. Northern Europe and Southern Europe are like separate continents in terms of the differences in culture and language. I went from speaking English with a mix of Swedish words in a country where English is spoken fluently by nearly everyone to struggling to learn just a few basic Italian words to communicate with some Italian locals. I did not prepare for such a radical adjustment. The language was expected, but the culture was pretty much opposite to Swedish culture. People here did not look initially reserved. Italians are not afraid to express themselves. They use hand gestures quite frequently, and it actually is part of their way of communicating. The friendliness and outgoing nature of Italians was not a complete surprise for me coming from the US, but from Sweden it was a total shock. I was used to acting reserved, trying to always act polite, making sure I did not intrude on anyone’s space. I basically had to teach myself an entirely new way to act if I wanted to adjust to life in Rome.

However, not all adjustments were difficult. I continue to be marveled by the fact that I am in the center of Rome. This city continually amazes those who visit, and the location of it all could not be better. Our Cornell in Rome program and apartments are all pretty much located within walking distance from the Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, the Colosseum, the Vatican, Piazza Navonna, and Campo di Fiore. We can easily walk along the Fiume Tevere (Tiber River) and some of us are lucky enough to see it from our windows.

View of the Tiber from one of the apartments

One of the biggest advantages of this city is how walkable it is, and how appealing it is to simply get lost in Rome. The network of streets is confusing for an automobile, but for people it is a delightful scene. One of my favorite places to walk around in is the neighborhood of Trastevere. If you crave exercise or a wonderful view, there is a wonderful walk that I like to go on that ends with an almost panoramic view of Rome.

 

Neighborhood walk in Trastevere

In the hills of the Trastevere neighborhood is a great observation point

We are all continually becoming accustomed to our new environment, but of course like moving to any unfamiliar place there are always going to be mistakes. Personally, I find mistakes provide the greatest lessons for life. Some of the mistakes I made taught me some great lessons. Paying attention to where the locals ate, asking for things in Italian, and avoiding the tourist traps were lessons I learned within only the first couple days.

My first big group mistake was the second night here, where I went out with friends for dinner. We were sucked into one of these restaurants that was decent, but not worth the price. There are several restaurants in the city that survive partly on one-time customers. I was somewhat judicious in buying one plate and nothing else, which I was quite satisfied with the choice I made after we ate there. Another night I ate out I went to a restaurant in the northern part of historic Rome that gets quite crowded because of the popularity of the food they served. The difference between the two dinners I had was stark. The locally popular restaurant filled me through only the antipasti (the courses prior to the meal). We heard from locals only to eat the antipasti dishes because they bring out two to three plates for every antipasto you order and it is full of food of all different types based on what you order: seafood, meats, or vegetables. To our delight they were completely right. This experience provided a great lesson. The locals normally know what is best, so especially when you find yourself in a new place, like I did, pay attention to the advice of locals the first couple of weeks.

Another easy mistake to make is to sit down when you grab a coffee. There is a reason everyone stands up. They charge you to sit down. It is an extra euro for you to use any of their chairs and tables. For that reason I stand with the locals when I am drinking my cappuccino. I have to also mention how wonderful the cappuccinos are in Rome. I am so glad to not see Starbucks here because the coffee is so much better than any Starbucks coffee. All you have to do is walk three minutes to drink one of the best coffees of your life for only 1-2 euros, and the good places are easy to spot because in the mornings you can see Italians rushing in for them.

In the end there is a lesson to be made. When you are in any new place that is vastly different from what you are used to always make sure you observe, and so in the case of Rome…do as the Romans do.

21
Jan

Due Giusti Per Due Euro

By Jake Rudin 0 Comments
Categories: Daily Life and Uncategorized
Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , ,

New to the city of Rome, a man strolls along the streets looking to practice his minimal Italian and sample a bit of the local culture. The man walks into a gelato shop and asks the confettiere “Qual’è il prezzo per due giusti?”

While this may not be the correct way to ask how much your icy treat will cost, those in the know will recognize that within this small interaction lie two of the most important parts of traveling: trying new things and making mistakes.

Although one may have had gelato at a mall stand in the states, or sampled the “italian ice” obtained in your local grocer’s frozen foods aisle, there is nothing like a gelato from the heart of Rome. Walking around the city’s center in the first few days is an awe-inspiring mouthful of some of western civilization’s best works. The gelato, as well as other culinary delights, is no exception to the masterful creations of Rome.

Gelato. photo credit: Marissa Lucey

Around the corner from the Pantheon is the mecca of gelaterie, Giolitti. The flavors are rich and vibrant, beckoning you from across the street to step inside and have a sample. As you enjoy the scintillating taste of fragola or lampone (or even an earthy, creamy pistacchio) slurped from your choice of conetto or coppetta, you may suddenly realize that those around you are speaking another language entirely.  Not only is each building and every façade a testament to the incredible capability of mankind, but every interaction is a chance to understand something new about the world and how others see it.

I believe firmly that making mistakes enhances the experience of being in a new place because how else are you to learn the subtleties of haggling in the street market or paying for that tasty treat you are eating? So, I encourage you to try things!  And dive into the little-known spots in Rome to find some hidden treasures. In St. Peter’s Basilica, why not try out the tiny staircase that descends into the hidden underbelly? You might just find the Vatican Grottoes which contain the Sarcophaguses of many a past pope (a must see). Ask the ticket woman at the Pantheon if there is access to the tiny balcony on the second floor (there is not, unless you have permesso from the Ministry of Cultural and Historical Artifacts).

Interior of the Parthenon – Private Balcony

Ask if you can get into the museum for free as an “EU Citizen between 18-26″ using your Italian visa (3 out of 4 say ‘yes’).

Interior Courtyard of the Museo Vaticano

And above all, take a chance; ask the guy at the gelato counter “what the price is for two truths?” He may just take the time to tell you that, in fact, they only sell gusti (flavors) for that price.

26
Nov

Walking Rome

By Jackie Krasnokutskaya 0 Comments
Categories: Daily Life

One of my favorite aspects of living in the centre of a city is my ability to walk anywhere I need to go. I think walking everywhere, although not always efficient, is one of the best ways to explore a new city. This fall has presented me with the perfect opportunity to do just that, and although now my studio days are becoming longer and my walks are becoming shorter, I had plenty of time to roam through Rome at the beginning of the semester. Here are some of my favourite walking experiences.

Through Trastevere and along the crest of Janiculum Hill
Because I live on the central side of the Tiber River, I haven’t had the chance to explore Trastevere as much as I would like. Whenever I did go on a walk through the quaint neighbourhood, though, I somehow got vaguely lost and by chance discovered streets just around the corner from one another that I didn’t know existed. One of those times I came upon the Passegiata del Gianicolo, which snakes along the edge of the hill and offers great views of the city from above. After walking back downhill, I ended up close to the Vatican, and walked back home along the river.

Along the Tiber to Ara Pacis
This is a route I ran along a few times, but it would also make a nice walk. It was my favourite during the hot summer months, because the thick trees along the edge of the river were a welcome relief from the sun. Walking along the river from any location to another is convenient because it’s impossible to get lost, and the walk can be as brief or long as you want to make it. The only bad part about running here is that it’s a also popular route for tourist families, so much of my jogging consisted of dashing into Lungotevere traffic to dodge wide rows of people.

Home from Termini train station on a Friday night
This was a walk I did more out of necessity than to enjoy a nightly stroll, but it ended up being very enjoyable. When we flew back into Rome after fall break, Carly and I took a bus from the airport to Termini. At Termini, we decided that we were much too impatient and excited to come home to wait for more public transport. Stretching our legs and walking the length of the city along its monumental, brightly-lit streets, and seeing Romans enjoying the first night of their weekends was the best welcome back we could have asked for.

North along Via del Corso and past Piazza del Popolo
To get the full experience, this walk should be done at the peak of the tourist season. For sanity’s sake, however, I would recommend going at off-peak hours. This route takes you from the monumental centre of the city and out of the Aurelian walls into a residential district. It starts at the Vittorio Emanuele II monument, and takes you along the busiest shopping street, Via del Corso. The obelisk at Piazza del Popolo, at the other end of the axis, is visible along the length of the street. Past the piazza, however, the city abruptly changes. Gone is the noise, the tourists, and the chain stores, and enter the quiet residential life of apartment buildings and little shops. The juxtaposition of the two areas of Rome is interesting to see. Depending on how far you want to walk, you can follow the same axis to reach Zaha Hadid’s MAXXI museum or Renzo Piano’s Parco della Musica concert hall.

Exploring Villa Borghese park
The Villa Borghese park is near Piazza del Popolo. It was designed as gardens to the villa. The park itself has nice trails and lots of trees, and looks like the perfect spot for a picnic (something I haven’t done but would love to do). The park also contains a number of museums and attractions. The most famous of these is the Galleria Borghese, located in the villa itself, which has, among other things, beautiful sculptures by Bernini. The other nearby museum I have visited is the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna, which houses a large collection of 19th and 20th century Italian art.

16
Nov

Circolo degli Artisti

By Jackie Krasnokutskaya 0 Comments
Categories: Daily Life and Events

I am taking a class called Contemporary Rome with Professor Shara Wasserman. This class, like many Cornell in Rome classes, isn’t a traditional lecture. Instead, it consists of “site visits” to places in Rome that relate to a contemporary city, and specifically to the contemporary art scene, including galleries, museums, artist studios, and collectors’ offices. These make up the entire cycle of contemporary art, from the moment of its creation to the moment of sale and exhibition. Shara is so involved in the local art scene that she seems to know everyone in the places we visit. She also knows of interesting events and art opportunities in the city. Recently our class participated in an art exhibit with students from Temple University, where Shara also teaches, and Rhode Island School of Design.

The art exhibit lasted for one night and was held in a club called Circolo degli Artisti. Students from the other participating universities were doing so as part of their studio art classes, so they had a fairly rigid and traditional format to their artwork. Our class, on the other hand, was not a technical drawing class, and in fact we weren’t showing our work for class credit. This meant the each student could explore whatever concept they wanted. Our work included photography, painting, drawing, collage, and mixed media. Naturally, this wide variety was unplanned but it made for a fun exhibit, both to set up and to show.

I did a pen drawing on two wood boards of two ways to explore and navigate an unfamiliar city. Both boards were different representations of Rome. The first was a drawing of the “conceptual city”, which is completely rational and has straight streets connecting the important monuments. The second was the “perceptual city”, which is composed of seemingly disorganized streets and winding alleys. Navigating the conceptual city is easy: all it takes is following the main streets and staying in sight of landmarks. Navigating the perceptual city has to be based on inexact memories and instinct.

The idea for these drawings came from my experiences traveling this summer and fall, and from a general fascination with cities. The terminology of the “conceptual” and the “perceptual” came from my studio professor Jerry who used it to describe Venice during our visit there, saying that it is almost entirely perceptual with the exception of Piazza San Marco. On the other end of the spectrum is St. Petersburg, which I visited this summer. It is completely planned out, monumental, and transparent. Rome lies somewhere between the two extremes. Its “conceptual” structure is overlaid with a “perceptual” fabric, and the two endlessly compete for attention and dominance.

16
Oct

Tight Budget Travel

By Jackie Krasnokutskaya 1 Comment
Categories: Daily Life

I just got home from fall break, which is luxuriously a week long for Cornell in Rome students. I traveled to Spain for the first time — first to Barcelona with my friends Carly and Lily, and then to Seville with just Carly. After this trip, I consider myself an expect budget traveler, and I am here to share some tips.

Transportation

Everyone thinks of train travel when they think of Europe. However, while it is a romantic and potentially breath-taking way to see changing landscapes, it is also time-consuming and not the cheapest option for a quick weekend trip. Surprisingly, the cheapest way to travel is usually by flying. Ryanair is notorious for both its cheap tickets and its hidden-fee horror stories, but my friends and I decided to risk it. The trick to is to travel light and ignore all of their costly extras. They are strict about their carry-on size limitations, though, so packing carefully is of the utmost importance. Luckily, I got too stressed out watching other people’s carry-ons get rejected to make the same mistake.

The best part about flying in Europe is how fast the airport process is: security is much more lax (they didn’t seize my full-sized shampoo and my shoes stayed on), and if you stay in the European Union you don’t need to go through customs! Basically, you get on a flying bus and end up in a new country. In fact, Ryanair’s cheapest tickets don’t have assigned seats, so boarding the plane really is like boarding a bus.

Accommodation

It’s easy to find cheap hostels in most large cities, but make sure they are centrally located. As a rule of thumb, those closest to a train station are usually more sketchy but are often cheaper. Traveling with a group of four people is convenient for hostels, because renting a private room for four people is common and inexpensive, and you don’t have to share a room with strangers.

For the most adventurous (or poorest) travelers, couchsurfing is another option. It is exactly what it sounds like: sleeping on a generous stranger’s couch for free. Although this might sound pretty dangerous, it’s actually fairly safe if done through CouchSurfing.org. This trip marked the first time that Carly and I tried it, mostly to cross it off our bucketlists. It was an overall positive experience, but I don’t know if I will do it again. It’s important for me to feel flexible and independent when I travel, which just isn’t possible when you have to rely on somebody else’s schedule.

Food

I enjoy high quality, healthy food, but I am not a foodie. I know some people travel partially to try the food of other cultures, but I am not one of those people, so for me it’s important to find the cheapest ways to eat healthily in a new city. For this, grocery stores are key. They often have delicious prepared food, or at least fruits, vegetables, and nuts. Street food or fast food is usually surprisingly expensive in Europe and just not worth it. (Huge exception: döner kebabs in Berlin, which I wish I could eat for every meal… but that’s another story.)

Sites

Most cities have lots of free things to see, especially for an architecture student — you don’t need to pay to see interesting urban spaces and building exteriors. Having said that though, I think it’s silly to try to save money on site-seeing because that is usually the most interesting part of visiting a new city. I shelled out €15 to see the Sagrada Familia and Casa Milà without regrets, and they were completely worth it. However, make sure to carry a student card with you and ask about student discounts, because most places have them even if they don’t advertise them.

Although I tried to make these tips as universal as possible, I know that in reality they don’t apply to everyone. At the end of the day, it comes down to your priorities while traveling. For some people, the most interesting part about travel is trying the cuisine of other cultures. For them, it makes more sense to have expensive and exciting dinners every night and then spend less money visiting museums. Others can’t enjoy themselves on vacation unless they have a guaranteed good sleep every night, so they probably shouldn’t risk the unpredictability that comes with staying in hostels or on someone’s couch. The most important part of budgeting for travel is to be honest about what is most important to you and to spend money accordingly.

 

 

01
Oct

Coffee Culture

By Jackie Krasnokutskaya 0 Comments
Categories: Daily Life

I love coffee. I work at the Green Dragon Café at Cornell, and despite its coffee being subpar, its café culture is very lively. I drink a coffee (or two, or three) every day, and enjoy a variety of brewing methods. Coming to Italy, I was excited to experience good espresso everywhere I turned and to observe Italian coffee rituals. Little did I realize that the cultural divide lies in much more than just the quality of coffee.

At college, I have several favourite rituals surrounding coffee. When I’m particularly stressed out, I love to order a huge, hot, 16-ounce americano and carry it around like a comforting accessory. I end up drinking it slowly, to the point that it gets cold before I finish it, but that doesn’t bother me. Instead, the familiar bitter taste helps me concentrate. It’s almost like listening to one song on repeat while working on a project (which I’m doing right now as I write), not because the song is so incredible, but because it serves as a metronome to my work.

I also really like going to coffee shops to study and to read. I’ve even AutoCADed at both Gimme and Stella’s in Ithaca. There is something so entitled but so wonderful about paying for one drink and then taking up a whole table for several hours. The best part about it is that it’s completely expected because everyone around is doing the same thing. The coffee shop becomes the public library and the public living room. Baristas like it too: they get to know the regular customers and to curate the music and atmosphere for them.

I could write a thesis about the American coffee shop. Having indulged my nostalgia a little, though, I will write instead about the Italian coffee bar. First off, “bar” is an important point. Although you can certainly find a table and be served coffee while sitting down, you will pay at least three times as much for the same drink. Italians opt to order and drink their coffee while standing at the bar. This is very cheap (€0.80 for an espresso!), but also tends to speed up the process, making the ritual into one of efficiency instead of one of enjoyment. Most of the time, the espresso is incredible, but drinking it feels like I’m just taking medicine against lethargy instead of sipping on my favourite drink.

Looking for a way to recreate the coffee experience I’m used to, I’ve started to make coffee at home. In Ithaca, I had used a French press, but in Italy the moka pot is king. So far, it’s been enjoyable and closer to the “slow coffee” experience I’m looking for. That is, except for the time I almost burned down my apartment. One morning last week, I put our old and charred moka on the stove and promptly forgot about it. I realised my mistake only when I smelled smoke while showering. When I ran out, my roommate Kevin had already dealt with the situation, but it was too late to save the moka pot. Its lid and handle had slowly melted into something resembling contemporary art, and the bottom compartment seemed to be vacuum-sealed shut. Since then, older, wiser, and armed with a brand new moka, I’ve had no such experiences, but my roommates now make sure to tell me if I leave a pot boiling for a little too long.

10
Sep

The Ideal and the Real

By Jackie Krasnokutskaya 0 Comments
Categories: Architecture and Daily Life

The beginning of August marked the end of the peak tourist season and the beginning of my more-or-less “real” Roman experience. Car traffic has noticeably increased, and snippets of English on the street have (slightly) decreased. From the outside, public transportation has begun to resemble canned sardines like never before. It is much less common to see families with matching maps, obviously lost and searching for street signs. Romans seem to be excited for these changes as much as I am. After I ordered and drank my daily espresso this morning, I thanked the barista as usual. He replied, “Prego! Buon fine di agosto!” which translates to “You’re welcome! Happy end of August!”

A recent theme of my thoughts as I walk around Rome has been the city’s use of public space. As I mentioned earlier, my apartment is next to the river, and walking along it is a good way to see the city while staying in the relative shade of the trees growing on the bank. For the newly arrived in Rome, it is also a good way to explore without getting lost in the city fabric. I usually walk on the street level of the bank, but there are also stairs that lead down to the water. This lower bank was covered with festive tents when I got to Rome in August, consisting of small bars and restaurants, as well as amusement-park-style games. This set up is called Lungo il Tevere Roma – a sort of festival which happens every summer. It was a beautiful sight which lit up the river at night and made wonderful use of the lower river bank.

The tents came down on September 2nd, and a few homeless people took up some of the open space. Interestingly, Rome has always placed the utmost importance on its public spaces, historically even forcing its growing population to live in a very dense environment instead of sacrificing public space. The city plan was shaped by its piazze, and this is as obvious today as it was when the Nolli Plan of Rome was drawn.

Wanting to make use of Rome’s public spaces, my friends and I bought some street food and naively went down to the Tiber water, only to be met with a terrible stench. From the street level, the garbage and stench was hidden, but it made the water level unusable. It is interesting that the Tiber is such an important aspect of Rome, and yet the potential public space on both sides of it is formally unused. As an architecture student, the thought of a double level street on two sides of a river is very exciting in its potential! If the city began to clean it up, it would encourage more pride and respect from residents and tourists, and perhaps the Lungo il Tevere festival is a first attempt. However, having grown up in Vancouver, which has a large homeless population in its city centre, I am keenly aware that the problem needs more than to be swept under the proverbial rug. If displaced, the squatter community will simply move elsewhere. As much as I understand that, it is sad to see such an exciting space being looked at with aversion.

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