Archive for October, 2010

03
Oct

SICILIA IN BOCCA

While there were very many architectural beauties on the six day tour of Sicily, I will write instead about the few of the many notable Sicilian foods that I found to be particularly memorable.

The first is a Sicilian orange salad (Insalata d’Arance) made of fresh navel oranges, blood red oranges (sometimes), red onion, salt, pepper, olive oil, fennel seeds, and oregano. Other recipes call for Sicilian olives, basil, and/or fennel. The one that I tasted in Ortigia did not include them, but the dish tasted delicious nonetheless. The dish was refreshing and light and a good side dish to the mussels, clams, and other fresh seafood that is delectable in Sicily.

Insalata d'Arancia

Insalate d'Arance

One of my favorite dishes from Sicily is Spaghetti Tutto Mare, which directly translates to “spaghetti all sea.” That is exactly what it tastes like too. The recipe is actually fairly flexible based on what is fresh and available. Typically though, it contains calamari, shrimp, clams, mussels, octopus, dry white wine, garlic, parley, and crushed tomatoes.

Spaghetti Tutto Mare (photo from flickr)

Spaghetti Tutto Mare (photo from flickr)

The perfect ending to the Sicily tour was having traditional sweets in Catania. Sicily is renown for its sweets, and each city has its speciality. In Catania, the patron saint was tortured by having her breasts cut off. Today, she is memorialized in breast shaped marzipan treats that can be found in almost all of the pasticcerias in the city. However, I tasted a few other sweets from I Dolci di Nonne Vincenza. Located in heart of baroque Catania, I Dolci di Nonne Vincenza uses family recipes from the owner’s grandmother Vincenza. Supposedly, Vincenza learnt her recipes from baking with her aunt for wedding festivities. The shop is a beauty, in itself. It is furnished entirely in wooden furniture from the 1800s, and it uses the wooden cabinets to display the different variety of traditional sweets- from cannoli, almond-based sweets, pistacchio-based sweets, and honey based sweets. I sampled a ricotta filled pastry, a cannoli, and a selection of almond and pistacchio cookies. After buying the sweets, we hastily perched ourselves on the steps of a statue in the piazza San Placido to eat our sweets. It was a great experience to taste sweets in a place where pastries have a long-standing tradition and culture. Thus, we ended the Sicily trip on a very sweet note.

sweets behind the wooden cabinets

sweets behind the wooden cabinets

the most delicious cannoli in the entire world- chocolate & ricotta filled

the most delicious cannoli in the entire world- chocolate & ricotta filled

almond sweets filled with peach jelly

almond sweets filled with peach jelly

almond twist sweets

my favorite- almond twist sweets

Taking sweets back to Rome

Taking sweets back to Rome

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These sweets are so delicious that Jeffrey bought one for each of us to taste :)

Everyone reaching for sweets while waiting at the train station

Everyone reaching for sweets while waiting at the train station

Ciao a tutti,

Christine

03
Oct

Ercolano

walking down a major road; notice the deep inset for the street

walking down a major road; notice the deep inset for the street

Herculaneum or Ecolano is one of two major cities that were completely obliterated yet oddly perfectly preserved during the volcanic eruption of Mount Vesuvius in the year 76 AD. Even today, it sits under the shadow of the mountain. Although Pompeii exceeds it in monumentality and size, Herculaneum, in fact, used to be the more coveted and popular of the two sites. When the volcano erupted in 76 AD, the volcanic ash, debris, and lava covered the entire city and left the ancient city covered in 16 meters of volcanic matter.

The statue of Proconsul Marcus Nonius Balbus, standing in the square near the suburban baths

The statue of Proconsul Marcus Nonius Balbus, standing in the square near the suburban baths

As architecture students, Herculaneum is a valuable tool for understanding the origins of certain building techniques and design. In the case of Herculaneum, the city was built on at least three “decumani.” Five cornerstones run perpendicular to the decumani and to the coastline. Through the well-kept preservation we can discern structural elements such as wooden beams that were carbonized by the intense heat of the volcanic matter. While on the trip, we also focused very much on courtyard houses and predecessors to the courtyard house typology that utilize an open central space with rooms that stem off of the courtyard. In addition, it was also possible to grasp a social sense of Herculaneum through certain communal spaces such as the suburban baths, which included both hot and cold bathing facilities and a steam bath room. It is also possible to see a range in architecture- from monumental structures such as the Hall of Augustus, with an elaborate fresco of the battle between Hercules and the Etruscan god Achello, to the more modest structures like the Trellis home, which used low cost building techniques in order to create a wooden cantilever from the second floor over the street. This was intended for use as a boarding house to be occupied by several families. Through certain decorative details such as mosaics and paintings, it is possible to discern the importance of the people that lived in a particular house. Most of the rooms in typical homes were fairly modest in size.

courtyard with a fountain in the center

courtyard with a fountain in the center

another Ercolano courtyard; notice the changes in materiality- plaster, volcanic stone, brick

another Ercolano courtyard; notice the changes in materiality- plaster, volcanic stone, brick

House of the Stags; marble tripod table with lion motifs

House of the Stags; marble tripod table with lion motifs

Today, most of the ancient city of Ercolano is not visible to the public. In fact, most of it is still buried under the modern city. The juxtaposition of the new city that hovers over the old city offers an interesting dynamic. The modern day Ercolano continues to bustle and thrive around a frozen-in-time ancient Ercolano. In all, visiting Ercolano presents an ancient city that was well connected, organized, and cultured.

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vessels to hold wine in a wine and oil shop

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View from street into a courtyard

Ciao a tutti,

Christine