Archive for March, 2010

30
Mar

Gnocchi, Gnocchi Everywhere

Pasta-making is an art of cooking in Italy that is handed down through generations, and for one night Cornell students participated in this fascinating tradition. Anna Rita Flati, the Administrative Director for the Cornell in Rome Program, was kind enough to teach interested students about the path to creating a perfect gnocchi.

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Thanks, Anna Rita!

Working Gnocchi Magic!

Anna Rita - Working Her Gnocchi Magic!

The beauty of pasta, of course, is in its simplicity. The basic rules for creating gnocchi, or “lumps” in Italian, were quite simple. The flour was created with a mixture of potato and flour, and all most students had to do was simply roll and knead the dough!

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A Closer Look at the Art of Gnocchi Making

The constant preparation of the dough would continue for a very long period of time. In between, Anna Rita would be flooded with questions about her cooking techniques, and students would come and go, depending on how much they were dying of hunger!

What a mess!

What a mess!

In the end, though, everyone was happily fed with plate after plate of gnocchi. Anna Rita crafted a variety of different sauces to complement our very own student-made pasta. Cooking is not only a great tradition, but a fun way to get out of class!

10
Mar

Assisi

Di questa costa…nacque al mondo un sole.

From that slope…to the world was born a sun.

-Dante, Paradiso, Canto XI (l. 49-50)

View of St. Francis Church from the mountain top
View of Basilica of St. Francis from the mountain top

It is too easy, and perhaps even ignorant to say that Assisi is like any other Umbrian town. I could have easily watched Assisi pass by the window of  my train and think of other better known cities like Florence or Siena. But anyone meandering through the intimate streets of Assisi will probably tell you just how memorable and unique this place is.

The trip is a day trip with Professors Jeffrey Blanchard and Lila Yawn. Perched on the mountains of Mount Subasio, this gem retains much of its medieval hill-town charm. The warm Umbrian sun light filtering through secret alleyways, the serene Umbrian landscape, the yellowish cobblestone of the streets and buildings,  and the medieval character of the town all come perfectly together to make this place so unique.

Overlooking the Umbrian countryside
Overlooking the Umbrian countryside from Assisi

As I make my way up the hill to the famous 13th century Basilica of St. Francis, I started a conversation with three Fransiscan priests who also happened to be visiting the town. With their foreign demeanor and accents, I realized that the town was a major pilgrimage site and that the town, although small in size, commands a large cultural influence around the world as it is the founding place of the Fransiscan Order and the birthplace of St. Francis himself.

Basilica of St. Francis
Basilica of St. Francesco

A visitor’s eye is naturally drawn to the main basilica but the exploration doesn’t end there. Close to the Basilica is a gorgeous sequence of piazzas leading to the main basilica of St. Francis overlooking the Umbrian countryside. A majority of the day was spent with Professor Yawn in the main Basilica, where we learned about the development of the Fransiscan Order and the Basilica’s architecture and beautiful frescoes.

St. Francis Church
St. Francis Church
Inside the loggia
Inside the loggia

One of the pleasures of Assisi is exploring the many intimate streets. Unlike Rome, most of the streets here are too narrow to accommodate the width of cars, so the roads are serenely quiet and left to the sounds of local chatter and the ringing of church bell towers.

Walking along the intimate streets of Assisi
Walking along the streets of Assisi

There is nothing quite like traveling to a small Italian town to buy the food specific to that particular region. I took the opportunity to buy Umbrian meat, cheese, and truffles from one of the many local meat stores.

Walking along the streets of Assisi
Walking along the streets of Assisi
San Francesco Church
San Francesco Church
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Church tower in the background

Winding staircases lead you to the some of the most unexpected of places- hidden piazzas, small surprising openings, hills, city walls, and spectacular views of the Umbrian countryside.

i bought umbrian cheese, meat, and truffle
Stairway
Stairway leading to the main piazza

It is of no surprise that the locals describe the region as il cuor verde d’Italia, or the ‘green heart of Italy’.

Overlooking the Umbrian countryside
Overlooking the Umbrian countryside

During the later half of the day, I climbed the hills along the city walls up to Rocca Minore, a small fort residing on top of the hill.

Watchtower
Watchtower view from Rocca Minore

On top of a hill near the Rocca Minore is a medieval courtyard filled with trees–a perfect place to relax and enjoy the view of Assisi from atop.

\Hanging out in a medieval courtyard on top of the hill
Hanging out in a medieval courtyard on top of the hill
Climbing along the city walls of Assisi
Climbing along the city walls of Assisi

Our class climbed to the top of the watchtower with a gorgeous view of the green Umbrian countryside and the city itself-a perfect way to end the day in this beautiful town.

View from the Watch Tower
View from the Watch Tower
View of Assisi
View of Assisi from the mountain top

One of the nice things about these Italian hill towns is their close proximities to one another. I took a personal detour to a nearby Umbrian hill town called Perugia the day before the class trip.

Perugian street
Perugian street

Perugia, the capital of Umbria, is another lovely Umbrian town near Assisi with plenty of intimate alleyways and a wonderful collection of baroque art. Perugia is worth a day trip if you are ever visiting Assisi.

Hidden Alleyway
Hidden Alleyway
overlooking the beautiful umbrian countryside from Perugia
Overlooking the beautiful umbrian countryside from Perugia
Perugia at night
Perugia at night
Arches
Supporting arches
Morning Light
Morning Light
Walking on top of an ancient acqueduct
Walking on top of an ancient acqueduct
Main piazza at night
Main piazza at night

One of the best experiences was waking up early enough to watch the most beautiful sunrise and see the morning light filter through the streets of Perugia. It is a great way to experience these Italian towns because most people are still sleeping and the streets are at their most serene.

Morning Light
Morning light streams through one of the corbel arches near the main piazza
Morning Light
At the main piazza
Morning Light
National Gallery of Umbria
Main Piazza of Perugia during Sun Rise
Main piazza of Perugia during sun rise
Morning Sun filtered through the alleyways
Morning sun filtered through the alleyways
Women heading to early mass
Nun heading to early mass
Perugia in the morning
Morning light
08
Mar

A Presentation of ‘Massimo’ Proportions

Massimo Florio Lecture - Main

The Lecture Hall, Palazzo Lazzaroni

Massimo Florio, the Jean Monnet Chair of Economics and European Integration at the University of Milan, gave a special lecture at Palazzo Lazzaroni about “Consumers’ Welfare and the Reform of Network Industries in the European Union.”

Wait, say what???” …asks the design-oriented planner.

As the name of the lecture points out, Prof. Florio’s topic involved a wide range of advanced economic theory that goes well beyond the reach of the ordinary planner. The readings in preparation for his lecture were quite dense – it was the kind of reading where a single read-through did not qualify for a sufficient understanding. Once the graphs and economic terminology were sifted out, however, one discovered that the golden conclusion served a very clear and powerful argument.

The argument was the following: that privatization does not always work when it comes to the delivery of urban infrastructure, such as trash and water. What makes it more interesting is that Massimo Florio is not a radical economic theorist, but a very traditional one.

Say what???

This time around, a different group lashes out in confusion of the themes that are being discussed. The following group represents the many who are proud of a hands-free, laissez-faire economy. Privatization, many of them say, is always good, even for the service industry, since competition always leads to better pricing and greater affordability. And who wouldn’t agree with one of the most basic statements in the study of economics?  What makes a traditional economic theorist like Massimo Florio challenge traditional economic theory?

Massimo points out that the world of competition in the service delivery sector differs greatly from a mainstream private business and may not necessarily guarantee the best pricing strategy for the public.

Massimo Florio Lecture

Prof. Florio further explains his theory to interested Cornell planners (L to R: Ryan Richards, Eun Woo Ha, Steven Jenkins)

The problem deals with asset specificity – while in theory, for example, two water companies in competition with each other would lower pricing, and become free from the bureaucratic tangle of politics, many water monopolies have made tremendous investments in the construction of their own underground infrastructure. A new water company, therefore, would be unable to easily enter the business of water since they would need to invest a considerable amount of money to create an infrastructure that rivals that of the current monopoly. Another problem deals with responsibility – if a private company suddenly enters bankruptcy, a municipality may enter a period of shock where the city suddenly becomes helpless in filling a service gap of its own. This is why past studies have shown that many cities are now implementing reverse privatization in an effort to get service delivery back into their own hands, whether it would be partial or full.

These explanations, however, are only the tip of the iceberg of Professor Florio’s argument. To learn more about his work, visit his homepage at http://florio.economia.unimi.it.

03
Mar

Wine tasting

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Went to a wine tasting last week with half the program. Justin took pictures, I took notes. We both got a little bit drunk, though perhaps I should only speak for myself. Our tutor was Renato sommelier and chef of his own restaurant. Round, portly, full of joy. Great English, but had an English speaking wine friend to help translate words that were more difficult. Who knew what their relationship was. She made jokes, translated the English word “aroma” for odors, into a way that Renato might find funny. “Aroma … a Roma!” Laughter ensues.

Table with food / photo by Justin Hui

Table in center with Steve, Ross and Zach in view.  Empty chair is Justin’s, who is obviously walking around taking pictures. Renato made a funny observation that all the girls sat together apart from the boys. We made lots of excuses, but it’s true, it was kind of like a middle school dance. I sat at a table with four girls. Cornell, which had for 92 years administered the swim test in gender separated pools, still eats apart like this. They say sushi chefs can’t be women, because our hands are too warm. Perhaps the enjoyment of wine, which is so sensory, we find instinctively easier women with women and men with men. Or maybe we are just 5th graders. Renato’s translator, or friend, did make a joke about the majority of the students being under-age. Luckily, I have been 21 since October and feel no guilt!

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Speaking of sushi, here is some of the lightly cooked salmon we had, which was salty and fresh and not smoked, like we had expected it to be. Ross and Javier, at the boy’s table, in the background. Ross seemed to know something about wine, though he was as mistaken as the rest of us who believed that red wine comes from red grapes, and white from green grapes. Fail. The salmon and prolific amounts of what seemed to be cream cheese (which may have just been on our minds as Renato made a joke about Shannon being from Philly) in the appetizers reminded everyone of bagels. Haven’t had a bagel in months, of course. Appetizers were mostly delicious. Seafood with whites, meats with reds, and then we started drinking and eating everything together. I am probably a lost cause. When asked what we smelled in a wine bouquet, in terms of fruits, some of the things we yelled out were, “Watermelon!” “Pear!” “GRAPES!” At least ‘pear’ was right.

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Champagne in Italia, which is called “spumante.” Interesting after all the debate about whether sparkling white wines in the US can be called Champagne, though they’re not from the area. Napa seems to have stopped this completely, and possibly the Finger Lakes. When it was time to open the spumante, Shannon was called up to open the bottle; Renato loves making fun of people in the best way. The whole thing could potentially have gone terribly wrong (someone losing an eye, window, ear, camera, etc.) but everything was fine. The sound of a cork coming out of a champagne bottle is extremely distinctive.

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Savory crepe, some of which were filled with artichokes and some with mushroom. Considering that this crepe came out last, in terms of hor d’oeuvres, and the state of Justin’s wine glasses in the background, I take back everything I said about both of us getting drunk. Since I’ve lived in four wine producing locations in my life (San Francisco [Napa Valley / pinot noir], Ithaca [Finger Lakes / chardonnay], Buenos Aires [Argentine wine country / malbec], and now Italy [Tuscany / chianti and brunello]) I am thoroughly embarrassed that I don’t know more about wine. The wine tasting enlightened me … I now know that in Italy, the 1.5 liter bottle is called a “magnum.” Who would have known? Lots of stories about wine and the Church too, from Dom Perignon to the story of Est! Est!! Est!!! I will save you all the story-telling I did at the wine-tasting (“There was someone, somewhere, sent to look for something, and when he found it … “) Feel free to read it here, at Wikipedia, the most reliable source on the Interwebs.